TATE Setup

[Blackbird]

I'm thinking about picking up a new monitor so that I can try TATE with my PC. Simple enough to find a monitor that can rotate 90 degrees. However, I then thought it would be nice to kill two birds with one stone and get a monitor compatible with my older game consoles so that I could TATE games on them as well. Systems like the Sega Saturn that use composite outputs.

It's difficult to find monitors that are compatible with older inputs. It also occurs to me that I would have no sound output for my console games unless the monitor had speakers and compatible connections.

Does anyone have a setup like this? I'm honestly a little lost, I haven't gotten a new display in about a decade, so a lot of the new connectivity options confuse me.

[KBZ]

you're not alone. It's the choice of 15khz vs 31khz monitors mostly. Some can do both but you probably wont find one, they're expensive, and usually 29".

A simple solution would be to use a videocard or external adapter to have your pc hook up to a normal monitor via svideo, and use your consoles normally. The quality of output from the pc is hit and miss, and you probably wont get proper 320x240, but your consoles should work great on it.

Alternatively, you could get a setup like this that will allow you to hook up your older consoles to a vga crt or lcd with decent results. It's a bit pricey, and probably only worth it if you really want to use an lcd or have zero room for a crt.

hope this helps

[neorichieb1971]

Your best bet is to buy a 28" or 32" 16:9 HDTV. It has PC and TV inputs on it.

If you want bang for your buck on the audio you can do like I do.

I bought a pair of logitech 2.1 speakers for £30 which comes with a subwoofer and I plug that into the headphone socket of the TV. The logitechs come with a handy 3.5mm female to phono female adapter. Which means you can go from the TV or direct from the console. It will be so loud your neighbours will complain. So there is a lot of flexibility.

If you want to rotate the TV that will be a bit tougher. But you can buy rotatable stands. usually for the size screen your going to be looking at you will need the mounting holes 10cm (100mm) apart. Having using the headphone socket it might cause problems.

If you do buy a monitor, you'll need a convertor and to be honest, quite a few of them only accept certain inputs and have varying results. They also cost a lot as well.

[drunkninja24]

It's pretty roundabout, but you could go like this assuming you use RGB SCART cables:

Console -> RGB SCART-Component converter -> Component-VGA Converter (HD Box Pro in my case) -> Monitor

It's how I hook my Saturn up to my monitors, and it works pretty well.

As for the RGB-Component converter, hit up this guy on Neo Geo and see if he has any more of his boards, they work great: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthrea ... ight=scart

[Blackbird]

If you want to rotate the TV that will be a bit tougher.

Yeah, that's the problem right there =P.

Monitors have rotation.

HDTVs have component inputs and speakers.

But I can't find one with everything >_<.

Regardless, you've given me a few ideas to work with. I hadn't considered buying an aftermarket stand to rotate an HDTV. That might work.

I've also seen scalers that take S-Video and/or composite inputs and convert them to HDMI output, is this a viable solution for my present problem, assuming the monitor in question has speakers?

http://www.amazon.com/Composite-HDMI-Co ... 44&sr=8-16

[neorichieb1971]

I wouldn't use TV/monitor speakers. As I said I use logitech's PC speakers on my setup.

Use something like this -

http://cgi.ebay.com/SCART-Audio-Video-H ... 5642138f1f

With a TV and logitech speakers and 3rd party rotatable stand.


If the console supports native svideo/component go straight to TV. If not, use the converter from SCART RGB to HDMI. I can't really any better way to do it.

I don't see the need for the device you linked. Your TV will do all the conversions internally. the only reason you need one for RGB is if you want to use RGB scart equipt consoles.

[Blackbird]

Edit: To clarify, my Saturn is a US Saturn. It outputs through an S-Video port to a composite video cable and two composite audio cables (stereo). Or at least, that's what I think it does. It's not a SCART cable.

That said, it looks like there are inexpensive adapters for component -> SCART, and then I can go the scaler route for SCART -> HDMI.

Mmmm. Thinking some more, is it possible to have a setup like this:

Get any display with native composite video (HDTV or monitor, whatever method I come up with for rotation). Run the Saturn directly into the display (just the yellow video composite cable).

To resolve the lack of sound, I could plug the red and white stereo cables into a separate speaker system. The cables probably won't reach, but extending them is probably not difficult.

Workable?


I also found those aftermarket stands you mentioned. Were you thinking of something like this:

http://www.standsandmounts.com/levelmou ... sk30t.aspx

If I can get an HDTV rotated, then everything would be simple. I'm pretty sure the PC can go right into it via HDMI, and the Saturn can go right into it via composite.

[neorichieb1971]

Your going about the video all wrong.

The yellow cable is composite and will look very bad on anything. Even a CRT which its designed for is pretty bad. If you put that yellow cable into a HDTV it will take 10 years off your eyesight.

This is what I would do.

Respectable HDTV (Sony, Panny, Philips, JVC)
Any stand you want as long as when its vertical you have some gap underneath.
(edit - Just realized TV's are a bit of a pain rotated sometimes, air vents are usually on top - something to take into consideration)


On the cabling side. I would try to get as many SCARTS as you can. Genesis/Saturn/DC/PS1/2, SNES are the 5 you want.


If you do decide to get a monitor, get one of those NEC things Tonk has got (it comes highly recommended). With the SCART HDMI converter it will work well. It will probably work TATED.

I still encourage you to buy the logitech 2.1 speakers. In fact, at less than $50 it should be your first purchase since you can use them for anything. Keep the nice gaming adapter it comes with, it comes in handy sometimes. I would rather wear headphones than use the tinny crappy speakers on a monitor.

[Blackbird]

Hahaha, I see. So basically, you're saying it's a bad idea to use the composite cables to begin with, because the quality is poor in comparison to SCART cables?

Is it a safe assumption that the SCART cables are going to be the best output option, regarding video/audio quality, for getting a signal from my older consoles?

My Saturn only has an S-Video out jack. Am I screwed, or is it possible to pick up an S-Video -> SCART cable?

I think I might have some decent speakers already, actually. I should dig them out. The only reason they aren't here right now is because I have a huge CRT monitor taking up all the space on my desk. With an LCD monitor, I could probably fit them on.

[Fudoh]

My Saturn only has an S-Video out jack. Am I screwed,

unless your Saturn is custom modded, it hasn't got a s-video output, but a Mini-Din8 multi-AV output which also carries RGB.

[neorichieb1971]

Hahaha, I see. So basically, you're saying it's a bad idea to use the composite cables to begin with, because the quality is poor in comparison to SCART cables?

Is it a safe assumption that the SCART cables are going to be the best output option, regarding video/audio quality, for getting a signal from my older consoles?

My Saturn only has an S-Video out jack. Am I screwed, or is it possible to pick up an S-Video -> SCART cable?

I think I might have some decent speakers already, actually. I should dig them out. The only reason they aren't here right now is because I have a huge CRT monitor taking up all the space on my desk. With an LCD monitor, I could probably fit them on.

In the order of preference for each console -

Genesis - RGB/Composite/RF
Saturn - RGB/Svideo/Composite/RF
SNES - RGB/Svideo/RF (newer slim model does not support RGB)
Dreamcast - VGA/RGB/Svideo/composite/RF
PS1 - RGB/Svideo/Composite/RF
PS2 - Component and/or RGB/Svideo/Composite/RF
N64 - Svideo/composite/RF
Gamecube - Component/Svideo/Composite/RF
Xbox - Component (RGB is rubbish on this console, but not sure how it compares to Svideo)
360 - HDMI/VGA - Component/Svideo/composite/RF
PS3 - HDMI/Component
Neo Geo - RGB

For Sega and Neo Geo you can go here - http://www.retrogamingcables.com/

You can also buy one of their CSY2100 SCART to Component converters if you like (but ask for 110V adapter or get one from Radio shack). Failing that get the HDMI converter posted above. Whatever your preference is.

For the other consoles you can cables from Ebay. If your stuck I could help you out.

[Blackbird]

unless your Saturn is custom modded, it hasn't got a s-video output, but a Mini-Din8 multi-AV output which also carries RGB.

Ah, ok! The socket looks very similar to an S-Video jack to me, so I was mistaken.

That is an extremely useful and informative list, Neori. We should have that stickied somewhere for public reference.

I'll see if I can find some cables and let you know if I get stuck anywhere.

So the current plan is revised to:

1) Get a monitor/HDTV w/ TATE and hopefully HDMI ports.
2) Get new cables for the Saturn. Get a SCART -> HDMI scaler.
3) The notebook can obviously go in with HDMI, and the Saturn can go in with RGB/SCART -> HDMI.
4) Dig out my speakers and jack the sound into them.

I think that NEC model you listed only has DisplayPort, but I recall you can easily switch HDMI to DisplayPort with a simple adapter/dongle of some kind. So that part isn't hard if it is difficult to find a monitor with HDMI for some reason.

EDIT: I just realized that there are different types of SCART cables for different regions. Which one do I want for use with my US Saturn and that SCART->HDMI scaler, a UK SCART cable or a Japanese one?

Do you think I need a Saturn SCART cable with separate stereo outputs, or is it fine to just patch it through the scaler?

EDIT2: This entire thread makes so much more sense to me now that I know what the hell an RGB/SCART cable is, lol.

[neorichieb1971]

SCART cables have a faint buzzing noise with the audio. Its just like that by bad design and bad grounding. So if you want pristine perfect audio you should get breakout cables.

Displayport dongle sounds good. I didn't realize the NEC had no HDMI.

The Japanese configuration of scart (JP21 RGB) is quite rare to buy online. The only thing that uses it is old Sony TV's from Japan and XRGB transcoders. Almost everywhere sells the Euro config. (You want Euro)

It can get a little expensive getting scart cables though. I think the US Snes needs a special cable. I know Ravengames in London make them but couldn't help you where to get it anywhere else. Tell me which cables you need.

It might be worth you going from SCART to VGA.

To be honest, this is a tough road to go down. If you bought a TV you could just buy the SCART> Component from retrocables. Its called the CSY2100 down the bottom of retrocables list.

Before I can go further I need more info on what consoles your interested in.

If your happy with Svideo, go that route. It will save you $200.

[Blackbird]

For now, I'm just interested in my Saturn. Most of the games I'm really interested in playing are on it. It would be nice to have cables for my SNES and PS2, but I've made a couple major purchases lately, so they aren't a high priority. I can get them later on.

Will a Euro SCART cable work with my US Saturn? I've read in a few places that the cable is incompatible. I don't think this will work if I can't use a Euro cable, because most of the SCART conversion boxes are designed to accept Euro SCART and not JPN SCART, as far as I can tell.

Assuming I want a Euro SCART cable with audio breakout, is this the type of cable I'm looking for?:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sega-Saturn-RGB-SCA ... 53e830aa6e

Actually, maybe this cable will be compatible. It sounds like it's custom-made to be compatible.

Taking a step back, now that I understand what RGB output and SCART is, I can now begin to understand what the earlier posters were trying to convey =P.

It sounds like I have four main options. Please bear with me as I recap a bit, just to make sure I understand them properly. Wall of text, sorry >_<:

Option 1 - Suck it up and use stock composite output/cables with an HDTV. Quality is terrible, but I don't need additional cables/adapters.

Option 2 - Get a SCART Cable, then:

A - Use a SCART to Component converter to connect to an HDTV or appropriately-equipped monitor with RGB -> Component. Something like This, This, or the CSY 2100. As I understand it, RGB to Component conversion is almost one-to-one. The image isn't scaled, so it should be very crisp and high-quality, true to the original. Is it correct to assume that this solution will probably have the highest overall visual quality?

B - Use a SCART to HDMI converter to connect to an HDTV or monitor. Something like this: HDMI Scaler. This has the advantage of being compatible with almost any modern display, and being forward-compatible in that HDMI looks to be a very common interface option going forward. Essentially, this is the most versatile setup. Being a scaler, it upscales the image. However, whenever you upscale an image, you will of course introduce some blurriness by the nature of that action. Any thoughts on this?

C - Convert SCART to VGA(?). This is the one I'm a bit confused on. Kingbuzzo posted a Scaler Chain that I didn't fully understand. The Sync Strike looks like it converts SCART to VGA, is that correct? Could I simply hook up to a monitor using a VGA cable with that device?

I don't really understand what the second device, the CGA2VGA Scaler is for. The last device sounds like it is only there to introduce scanlines, which I'm not really too concerned about.

Assuming I get a SCART to VGA conversion going, how does the quality of that compare to the previous two methods? This method seems like it would be really convenient in that you could connect to almost any monitor this way.

[bryan_c]

Option 1 - Suck it up and use stock composite output/cables with an HDTV. Quality is terrible, but I don't need additional cables/adapters.

This will give you a better picture than hooking your Saturn up to a cardboard TV, in that you'll be able to see a picture without imagination. But that's about it. Oh, composite is better than RF too, but don't even think of going there.

Better to save the composite cable for testing whether your Saturn works at all. Or maybe for if you ever bring it to a friend's place that only has 30 year old TVs that support nothing better than composite.

Although, to play the Devil's advocate for a second, sticking to composite will save you money and hassle, as once you see how good RGB can look with one console you might just be tempted to track down better cabling for your other consoles too.

Option 2 - Get a SCART Cable, then:

A - Use a SCART to Component converter to connect to an HDTV or appropriately-equipped monitor with RGB -> Component. Something like This, This, or the CSY 2100. As I understand it, RGB to Component conversion is almost one-to-one. The image isn't scaled, so it should be very crisp and high-quality, true to the original. Is it correct to assume that this solution will probably have the highest overall visual quality?

It should be very crisp, yes, but there are a couple reasons why it might not be in practice:

• As I understand it, most Saturn games output 240p, and several HDTVs these days utterly choke on 240p over component video. So there's a chance you might end up with cardboard-TV quality with this setup. My HDTV (an LG LCD) is like this, actually - 240p over composite works but looks terrible (worse than composite to a CRT, which is bad enough!), while 240p over component doesn't work at all.
• Many of the cheap RGB -> component transcoders you can get on eBay (and elsewhere) aren't the greatest quality. They might introduce a few odd artifacts into the picture, or there might be a bit of ghosting on reds, for instance...

I'm not trying to say this is a bad option; just beware that it's not the right choice for everyone. There are HDTVs that accept 240p over component just fine, and even the cheapest crappiest RGB -> component transcoder should result in a picture leagues better than composite, hands down, and won't introduce any additional lag unlike some of the scalers out there. So, if 240p over component will work with your TV, this would be the most cost-effective way to go.

You said you have a PS2; if you get component cables for it and a game that outputs 240p, you can test how well your TV supports 240p over component. Almost all PS1 games will output 240p when played on a PS2, though some output 480i at least some of the time. There are also a handful of PS2 games that output 240p, though almost all of those output 480i by default.

B - Use a SCART to HDMI converter to connect to an HDTV or monitor. Something like this: HDMI Scaler. This has the advantage of being compatible with almost any modern display, and being forward-compatible in that HDMI looks to be a very common interface option going forward. Essentially, this is the most versatile setup. Being a scaler, it upscales the image. However, whenever you upscale an image, you will of course introduce some blurriness by the nature of that action. Any thoughts on this?

That's a cheap scaler; maybe an HDBoxPro clone I assume? The visual quality likely won't be the greatest (not because it's scaling, but because it's a cheap scaler), and it'll probably be a bit laggy. But it's more likely to work with an HDTV than a simple transcoder, and nowhere near as expensive as a high quality scaler like a DVDO Edge or XRGB-3.

C - Convert SCART to VGA(?). This is the one I'm a bit confused on. Kingbuzzo posted a Scaler Chain that I didn't fully understand. The Sync Strike looks like it converts SCART to VGA, is that correct? Could I simply hook up to a monitor using a VGA cable with that device?

The Sync Strike accepts SCART and outputs on a VGA-style (DSUB15) connector, but unless you hook it up to a device that accepts 15KHz inputs it won't work on its own. It's my understanding that very, very, very few VGA monitors would be happy with just Saturn -> Sync Strike -> monitor, and that it would be much more likely for the component transcoder to work with your TV.

I don't really understand what the second device, the CGA2VGA Scaler is for. The last device sounds like it is only there to introduce scanlines, which I'm not really too concerned about.

The CGA2VGA is the actual scalar part. It accepts 15KHz on the DSUB15 port, and scales it to something a bog-standard VGA monitor (or HDTV with VGA input) will likely tolerate. So the Sync Strike + CGA2VGA gives you an RGB SCART to VGA scaler. One nice thing about the CGA2VGA is that it also has a component video input as well; very few of the cheap scalers have multiple inputs.

You certainly don't need scanlines. Saying that might be sacrilege on this board though.

Assuming I get a SCART to VGA conversion going, how does the quality of that compare to the previous two methods? This method seems like it would be really convenient in that you could connect to almost any monitor this way.

The CGA2VGA Scaler is a cheap scaler, much like the SCART->HDMI scaler you linked. The quality will probably be comparable; meaning, not perfect, but much better than composite. It's probably a bit laggy too. I expect the transcoder would offer better quality, but I suspect the scaler is more likely to work on any random HDTV with a VGA input.

One reason why the CGA2VGA is popular around here is that since it outputs VGA, you can tack on an SLG3000 for scanlines. I know you said you don't care for scanlines, but one benefit is that they tend to hide some visual artifacts introduced by less-than-stellar scalers. So the Sync Strike + CGA2VGA + SLG3000 combo is an inexpensive way to get decent scaling.

[neorichieb1971]

If you want to throw money at a simple but effective solution just buy a used XRGB2 or 2+ like I have.

For $150 it pretty much does the lot. You'll still need cables but retrocables do Euro to JP21 conversion leads for pretty cheap which makes finding cables that much easier. Working with VGA gives you slightly more options since you can expand and shrink the screen as you see fit. You also have the 3.5mm jack for audio to your PC speakers.

Thats what I have.

I have used the CSY2100 and the results were good.

All Saturn SCART leads work on all Saturns as far as I am aware. I've used UK Euro scarts on US and JP saturns with no problems. The only problem being the image is shunted to the left slightly leaving a slight black margin on the right side. However, with a VGA monitor you can rectify that with the screen settings.

I have included an SLG3000 in my setup which adds a little flexibility as you can control the intensity of the scanlines. Its by no means compulsory.

Svideo is 80% better than composite and 20% less good than RGB. So you might just want to use Svideo and save lots of money. I don't think what your using is Svideo. It sounds like a composite cable. If its yellow, red and white its composite not svideo. An svideo lead has the red and white RCA plugs with a 5 pin din.

This is an svideo cable for a different console -

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4 ... SL160_.jpg

In that example you would leave the yellow cable unplugged and use the black 5 pin din.

When I were in the States I hated getting all these cables and converters. I sold almost everything except the XRGB2 and the HDpro (component only).

[chempop]

Blackbird, you'll be fine just getting a CRT TV and s-video cable for playing Saturn on. A decent flat-screen tube TV aren't really sold in stores anymore, but depending on your area you might come across one on the side of the road.

I'd say go with that budget option for the time being, all this scart->dvi, speakers, LCD nonsense is going to end up costing a fortune... By all means if you have money to burn go for it, otherwise just find a 24" Sony Trinitron or something comparable.

[Blackbird]

Lol, yeah, never using RF with anything ever again if I can avoid it. I can remember using RF for an NES or other older console when I was younger (when that was one of the only options for the really old TVs) and thinking "this really sucks" even as a child.

Svideo is 80% better than composite and 20% less good than RGB. So you might just want to use Svideo and save lots of money. I don't think what your using is Svideo. It sounds like a composite cable.

My Saturn came stock with composite cables. As you can probably tell by now, I didn't really understand how audio/video input worked coming into this thread, but I feel like I have learned a lot just by trying to find a solution for this setup. I had no idea when I thought about setting this up that I would be opening a huge can of worms, haha.

It looks like I have a lot to think about. Chempop raises an excellent point. I didn't really understand why someone would want to turn one of those giant old TVs on it's side, but now I'm beginning to see the appeal =P. I think I'm just going to have to sit down and compare the total cost of each setup to see what I can actually afford at this point. It would be very nice to get this working on an LCD, because space is valuable to me, but I may end up just having to accept the constraints of my budget.

Getting a new TV is actually necessary for me now, rather than a nice perk. A relative has moved in with us and effectively claimed ownership of the TV, (it's in his room, so I can't really be in there when he's not around) so I actually need a TV now if I want to play my Saturn games at all. Worst timing, I just got a couple Saturn games, too >_<.

[neorichieb1971]

RF is like mashing ice cream and multi coloured M+M's together and then trying to unravel it (all video and audio in one cable).

Composite is like mashing ice cream and one colour M+M's together and unraveling it (all video with seperate audio)

Svideo is like putting putting a dump of ice cream and one colour M+M's, taking off the M+M's leaving perfect Ice cream (video seperated into luminance, color and contrast with the audio separate).

RGB is like eating your ice cream completely separate from your M+M's (All seperate signals).


Most consoles have options to any of the above. Whatever cable you choose depends on what method the TV receives and decodes the information.

Believe it or not, a composite yellow cable carries more data than any of the Red, Green or blue RCA's on a component cable. Obviously not all put together though.

[chempop]

There is lots of appeal of giant old TVs, especially when turned on their side I have 4 in my gameroom, but obviously space is not an issue.

Seriously though, find a decent TV for free or dirt cheap, get a s-vid cable ($10) and enjoy your couple Tate shmups.

However, if you need something to watch programs on too it'll be an issue because you aren't going to want to keep rotating it back and forth every time...

If you are about to spend a few hundred on a nice LCD TV, scart cables, converters, and all that jazz just think that the money could be spent towards Battle Garegga - and you'll be set for life

[Blackbird]

Ok, trying to narrow down my choice of display. I'm hoping to keep the budget around 300 USD, but that's not really a hard cap. Keeping that in mind, I think I will take chempop's suggestion and try to find an old SD CRT TV for next to nothing - it'll work just fine with my Saturn, and saves the compatibility hassles of a modern setup. Hopefully I can find a good TV and then get some S-Video cables for my Saturn to hook it up. Too bad US TVs don't have SCART hookups, lol.

I figure that will take 30-50 USD altogether, and that's probably a high estimate.

That frees me up to pick out any kind of monitor I want for my PC/MAME setup without worrying too much about old system compatibility. If I want to do that later on, I'd like to really undertake it seriously and get quality hardware that will give me good results, and it looks like that's not really in the budget (for now).

So here's what I'm looking at for the PC:

NEC E231W-BK, ~$210 USD shipped.

23"
1920x1080, 16:9.
Rotating screen stock.
8.8 ms input lag (about half a frame). Very good as far as LCDs go. In fact, it's pretty comparable to a decent TN panel. I probably lag more than the monitor does, lol.
IPS panel for wide viewing angles (sweet spot unlikely to be a problem in TATE).
Inputs: DVI, DSub, DisplayPort.
Good image quality.

NEC E232W, ~$280 USD shipped, possibly 260 with rebates.

Almost identical to the 231. Input lag is even better, at 8.1 ms. The picture is also slightly better. I'm not sure I'll notice, though, as I'm coming from a POS CRT monitor. Anything would be an upgrade from this, really. The 232 costs a bit more, though.

Dell U2311H, ~$279 USD.

23"
1920x1080, 16:9.
Rotating screen stock.
10 ms input lag in game mode (about half a frame). Good.
IPS panel for wide viewing angles (sweet spot unlikely to be a problem in TATE).
Inputs: DVI, DSub, DisplayPort.
Good image quality, maybe not quite as good as the NEC 231.

I could spend up for an actual HDTV, but 32" is pretty much the minimum size at which you can get a quality television. Smaller sizes are all crap budget models. I think a 32" inch unit is too big for my room, and an HDTV would need an aftermarket stand for rotation (another 60-80 dollars), so I think a monitor is the best route for now.

Any thoughts? At that price, the NEC 231 looks like it might be it. 23" IPS for 210 bucks is pretty hard to beat.

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Those Sony Trinitron CRT-based TV monitors (4:3 format) back in 1993-1994 with S-Video input were cool to have/use with the Atari Jaguar, PSX, Saturn, etc. back in the day. It'd used to be that you'd have to spend a bit more just to get a CRT based TV with S-Video input back in those days but well worth it (considering that no USA consumer NTSC based TV monitors had the uber-cool Japanese 21-pin RGB/Scart input though but the professional broadcast CRT TV monitors did).

Until the USA based TV manufacturers started selling the CRT-based TV monitors with all the obligatory inputs: RF, Composite Video, S-Video, and Component Video -- for greater versatility (not to mention producing CRT-based TVs with 480 progressive scan built-in).

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[Blackbird]

Thanks, PC Engine Fan. I'll keep a lookout for that model in my area. The main problem with SD TVs is simply transporting them. They are quite heavy, after all. Gotta find one that's local pickup, or else pay a few grand on shipping, lol.

Am I looking for something like this?:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sony-Trinitron-Wega ... 3cb9d21386

[shmuppyLove]

Samsung makes the P2370HD, you can find it for < $250 easily.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... pk=p2370hd

It's got VGA, DVI, HDMI, composite and component input, but sadly no s-video.

It has standard 75mmx75mm VESA for wall mounting, but only comes with a simple stand so you'd need a stand/arm/bracket so you can pivot it.

For sound, just run the audio out from your source to the line-in on your PC soundcard, and have a good pair of speakers on your PC (if you don't already). If you want to have multiple audio sources connected all at once, use a switcher. The monitor has speakers but I wouldn't use them, they'd be garbage.

[Fudoh]

But the Samsung is a TN Panel. Why on earth would he spend the same money on a display like this, when he can get a IPS panel for the same price ?

Also the Samsung component input is likely to be incompatible with 240p signals.

[Blackbird]

Also the Samsung component input is likely to be incompatible with 240p signals.

This was the conclusion I came to with the modern HD monitors/HDTVs. So I think I'll get an inexpensive SD TV for now to ensure compatibility with my Saturn, and then get a scaler chain going later on when I can afford it.

[Fudoh]

You can do that, but given that those cheap RGB to VGA scalers are only $40-50, using a LCD is an option after all. If you buy a SD TV without RGB you're missing out on the best possible picture. If you buy one with component only you have to buy a RGB to Component transcoder which costs $50 as well.

[RGB32E]

I recently made a 3 RCA to VGA adapter to connect the Wii via component video to the PC input on my Dell U2311. There's a setting on the U2311 you have to set so that the colors are correct (RGB -> YPbPr). I tried out the Wii's 3 main video modes of 480p, 480i, and 240p - All work! I was really surprised to see that the U2311 displays 240p via component. I tried 240p via RGBS, but didn't have any luck. However, I've yet to try 240p via RGsB or RGBHV... it might just work!

[Fudoh]

That's really nice to know. Is 15khz YUV support officially stated for the DSub15 input ?

[burgerkingdiamond]

I have my Saturn hooked up to s-video on a Tated 28" CRT. It looks very good. I think you'd have to be pretty damn picky to not be satisfied with this solution. And CRT's are dirt cheap at the Pawn shops near me.