Help with replacing Konami Windy Monitor
Help with replacing Konami Windy Monitor
I have a Konami Windy cab and have recently picked up a Nanao MS9-29a monitor to replace the necked monitor. I wanted to see if anyone has had any luck with replacing a monitor in the Windy. I would like to keep the Nanao monitor in the frame when I install it in the Windy to keep it easy for removing for any necessary repairs. Will the monitor fit in with the frame if I remove the inside metal box where the original chassis is sitting? Would I have to make any cuts to the cab for the monitor and frame to fit? I searched around on this topic for hours and did find some pics and info about how someone got an American monitor and frame to fit in a Windy and I am hoping the Nanao is a bit easier to stick in a Windy. Thanks for any help!
Re: Help with replacing Konami Windy Monitor
I've replaced the monitor and chassis in one of my Windys with a 29" Nanao. The tube fits fine. The nanao chassis just sits on the metal shelf underneath unsecured (the chassis PCB is still in the nanao pastic base). As long as you aren't moving it around a lot or tipping the cab onto its back, its fine. I'm sure you could drill some holes in the shelf if you really wanted to screw the chassis down.
Re: Help with replacing Konami Windy Monitor
Thanks for the info on the tube fitting. It sounds like you took off the original metal monitor frame when installing, is there anyway to do this by keeping the metal monitor frame on? My main concern is necking the tube when installing. My friend who I got the cab from did this with the original monitor. I would prefer to have the original frame to make both inserting and removing the monitor easier, just in case I have to remove it to take to a repair shop in the future. I read another post about cutting out the inside of the cab to make more space for the original frame to fit inside. For me wanting to keep the monitor in the frame, would you recommend this way? The monitor is also going to be tate for shmups if this positioning makes any difference. Thanks again!
Re: Help with replacing Konami Windy Monitor
Oh, now I understand what you are asking. No, I do not recommend modifying the inside of your windy cab for the Nanao tube metal frame. I use the Konami metal handles that attach to the tube. The trick is you have to tip the cab onto its back when you are replacing or rotating the tube. Its so much easier, and is a one man job. You can keep the american metal tube frame if you want, but you'll likely never need it again as only the PCB chassis gets sent out for repairs.
After disconnecting all wires and neckboard, disconnect the two flip up arms that hold the flip top of the cab (don't disconnect the hinges). Tip the cab on its back, open the flip top and let it sit down behind it. This will make it easier for you to rotate the bezel anyway. Take off the mounting bolts, stand directly over the tube (stratteling the cab) and use the Konami handles to pull the tube straight up and out. Then place the tube face down on a blanket and remove the handles. Here is a pic of me swapping frames on two tubes, its really no big deal handling tubes by themselves.
Putting the tube back in is just as easy when the cab is on its back, and less risky of nicking the neck using the Konami handles. Just remember, after you are done, you'll not want to tip the cab onto its back unless you have secured the chassis to the shelf underneath, otherwise remove it before tipping the cab back. These cab's aren't the easist to rotate, but I've done it on all my Windy's by myself, without any fear of nicking the neck.
After disconnecting all wires and neckboard, disconnect the two flip up arms that hold the flip top of the cab (don't disconnect the hinges). Tip the cab on its back, open the flip top and let it sit down behind it. This will make it easier for you to rotate the bezel anyway. Take off the mounting bolts, stand directly over the tube (stratteling the cab) and use the Konami handles to pull the tube straight up and out. Then place the tube face down on a blanket and remove the handles. Here is a pic of me swapping frames on two tubes, its really no big deal handling tubes by themselves.
Putting the tube back in is just as easy when the cab is on its back, and less risky of nicking the neck using the Konami handles. Just remember, after you are done, you'll not want to tip the cab onto its back unless you have secured the chassis to the shelf underneath, otherwise remove it before tipping the cab back. These cab's aren't the easist to rotate, but I've done it on all my Windy's by myself, without any fear of nicking the neck.
Re: Help with replacing Konami Windy Monitor
Thank you for that post, you have convinced me to do the same and not hack up the Windy. I do have a couple of other quick questions. The first is about the Windy power supply. Are there any issues with connecting an MS9 monitor chassis to this power supply? Also, there seems to be some wires connected to the original Windy Chassis that might not have a place on the MS9 chassis, does this have to do with the degauss button on the power supply? The last question may sound ridiculous, but after you got the Konami brackets on the new tube that is sitting face down, how did you lift and flip it? I am somewhat paranoid about necking the new monitor after watching my friend neck the original. Again, thanks for all the help! 
Re: Help with replacing Konami Windy Monitor
Its been awhile since I've done this, and I've swapped monitors on other cabs like an Egret II MS9 into an Astro City, and had to slightly modify the degauss line. I don't know if this will help, but here is what I did to connect the degauss lines to the MS9 with an Astro harness. Thankfully the rest of the astro harness fit perfect on the other connectors.
So you have two choices, either use the original chassis harness that came with the MS9 and hack the connector to the jamma loom, or use the Konami chassis harness and hack it to fit the MS9 chassis. Don't feel shy about hacking apart the two and splicing them together to make it all work, you've got all the parts there to complete this project. The power and RGBSG and Degauss lines are all compatible, just the connectors might be a bit different.
To your last question, just set the monitor down on one of the konami handles (holding the other) and tip it onto its front, or pull it into your body, and use your knee to help support it while you flip it over the change your grip. The tube itself it a lot lighter without the metal frame and chassis connected to it.
So you have two choices, either use the original chassis harness that came with the MS9 and hack the connector to the jamma loom, or use the Konami chassis harness and hack it to fit the MS9 chassis. Don't feel shy about hacking apart the two and splicing them together to make it all work, you've got all the parts there to complete this project. The power and RGBSG and Degauss lines are all compatible, just the connectors might be a bit different.
To your last question, just set the monitor down on one of the konami handles (holding the other) and tip it onto its front, or pull it into your body, and use your knee to help support it while you flip it over the change your grip. The tube itself it a lot lighter without the metal frame and chassis connected to it.