Vogatek Supergun Mk.III
Vogatek Supergun Mk.III
I was getting ready to order all the part to build my first supergun, but then I found this on ebay - Supergun MkIII. Bought one today since it was cheap, compact, has MVS support, Mono/Stereo switch, and RGB scart. Basically everything I was planing to build into my own supergun. For the price it just sounds too good to be true. Anyone else have one of these? Any problems?
That's cool. I've spoken with other owners of Vogatek SGs and feedback is mostly positive. It's missing few features like the kick harness and an attenuation circuit but I think it's a perfect starter for newbies. I have no problem building a SG myself but I would've spent more on the parts + shipping than for one Vogatek MK.III, and I'm still under my initial budget. The leftover money I used to order a MVS MV-1C and Metal Slug X to test the SG once it arrives. I'm crossing my fingers that I won't run into problems.nem wrote:I have an older board revision of this (the one with megadrive controller inputs). It's well put together and works as advertised. Dirt cheap too.
There's a separate audio jack because there's no attenuator to dampen the audio to line level. Otherwise outputting the audio to TV speakers or any other amplifier with blow up. It's a little inconvenient that I have to go buy some 8ohm passive speakers but at least they're cheap.CC_Devil wrote: Why is there a separate audio output plug?
Is audio output also part of the scart plug?
When I built my cable, I routed the audio from the jamma plug directly to the scart plug (pins 2 & 6 IIRC).
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A pair of 20w or 30w passive powered speakers rated at 8 ohms will work just fine with such a Vogatek Mark III Supergun setup -- would be comparable "speaker-wise" to what is setup inside a woodie or Japanese candy cabinet setup. ^_~
Such a Taito G-Net mobo setup can handle a pair of 100w passive powered stereo bookshelf speakers directly to the stereo output pinout without breaking a sweat. That is some serious wattage right there, folks. ^_~
A MAK (Multi Arcade Konsole) supergun setup is also another fine alternative to consider for arcade PCB hobbyists just starting out and getting their feet wet -- it is priced reasonably as well.
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
Such a Taito G-Net mobo setup can handle a pair of 100w passive powered stereo bookshelf speakers directly to the stereo output pinout without breaking a sweat. That is some serious wattage right there, folks. ^_~
A MAK (Multi Arcade Konsole) supergun setup is also another fine alternative to consider for arcade PCB hobbyists just starting out and getting their feet wet -- it is priced reasonably as well.
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
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sourdiesel
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how do i convert scart rgb to composite/s-video
ok, i know i need a RGB to Composite/S-Video convertor to use the Vogatek MKIII http://cgi.ebay.com/NeoGeo-MVS-and-JAMM ... .m63.l1177 with a ntsc TV (since i live in the states) the question is : where do i solder it to on the motherboard say if i get a JROK video convertor http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html
... thanks
... thanks
Re: how do i convert scart rgb to composite/s-video
Why didn't you get the Vogatek Mk.II? It has the AD725 ntsc encoder with s-video and composite plugs. Would've saved you money and the trouble.sourdiesel wrote:ok, i know i need a RGB to Composite/S-Video convertor to use the Vogatek MKIII http://cgi.ebay.com/NeoGeo-MVS-and-JAMM ... .m63.l1177 with a ntsc TV (since i live in the states) the question is : where do i solder it to on the motherboard say if i get a JROK video convertor http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html
... thanks
Anyways, hooking up the jrok encoder should be simple. Just solder the 8 wires: Sync, Red, Blue, Green, 2x GND, and +5V from the supergun to the jrok. On the jrok pcb you see 2 white connecters, one with 5 pins and the other with 2 pins. On the white 5 pin connecter you'll solder the Sync, Red,Blue,Green, and GND wires from the supergun. On the 2 pin connecter solder the +5V and GND wire from the supergun. Very easy.
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sourdiesel
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Not sure since I don't have it yet. Mine should arrive in the mail this week I think. I'll let you know once I get it and post some pcis of it.sourdiesel wrote:i didnt buy anything yet ... forgot about the mk 2 coz he is out of stock ... he will have some early next month i may wait but this seems like an easy solder ... are the wires clearly marked on the mk 3 ?
Even if they're not clearly marked you can trace it back to the jamma edge connector using a multimeter.
http://www.gamesx.com/arcade/jamma.htm
Vogatek supergun arrived in the mail two days ago. It was suppose to be here a month ago but somehow the first package got lost in the post. No biggie, I explained to the seller (ebay id: Arcade-Blazer) about it and he was kind enough to ship out second one free of charge. So here it is the Vogatek MK III.
The dimension are 5x3 inches, the size of an index card.
Supergun running Metal Slug X on a MV-1C. Attached is the ATX power supply, scart lead connected to my XRGB-2 (not shown), and DB-15 connecter for the joystick.
I was going to build a simple attenuator so I could use my PC speakers. But changed my mind when I found a pair of 8 ohm passive speakers at Fry's Electronics. Cost only $2.49 + tax, real cheap and the sound coming from them are loud & crystal clear.
Picture is sharp and colors are bright. The same as I remember in the arcade. Looks even better with the scanlines turned on.
I'm very satisfied with the results so far. Picture and audio is awesome so no problems there. If there is one thing I'd change, I would remove the coin button that's the blue one in the center. It's just annoying to leave my seat when I need to add credits, when my joystick already has buttons set aside specifically for that purpose. If the coin button was removed there would be more than enough space to add more terminal strips for player1 & 2 coin, including test and service buttons which are absent.
The dimension are 5x3 inches, the size of an index card.
Supergun running Metal Slug X on a MV-1C. Attached is the ATX power supply, scart lead connected to my XRGB-2 (not shown), and DB-15 connecter for the joystick.
I was going to build a simple attenuator so I could use my PC speakers. But changed my mind when I found a pair of 8 ohm passive speakers at Fry's Electronics. Cost only $2.49 + tax, real cheap and the sound coming from them are loud & crystal clear.
Picture is sharp and colors are bright. The same as I remember in the arcade. Looks even better with the scanlines turned on.
I'm very satisfied with the results so far. Picture and audio is awesome so no problems there. If there is one thing I'd change, I would remove the coin button that's the blue one in the center. It's just annoying to leave my seat when I need to add credits, when my joystick already has buttons set aside specifically for that purpose. If the coin button was removed there would be more than enough space to add more terminal strips for player1 & 2 coin, including test and service buttons which are absent.
lawnspic wrote:nice job!, picture looks great
Thanks guys. I just ordered a Jamma harness extender and a 20pin ATX extension. I realized removing the supergun from a jamma edge takes a bit of effort. Same with the ATX connector, they're very tight. I feel like I'm gonna break something.yojo! wrote:Congrats Rolins.
It does, the button plane can rotate 270 degrees and the joystick has a simple spring mechanism to switch from 4-way to 8-way.yojo! wrote: BTW, what kind of joystick is that (XE-1ST2) ? Does it have rotary support ?
It was designed for the Sega consoles and Japanese computers that uses the atari pinout. One of the few sticks that fully supports FM-Towns. This one has been modified to match the Neo Geo pinout, minus the D button since this has only ABC and Start, Select buttons.
Awesome ! so you could play Ikari Warriors and others SNK with this ?rolins wrote:It does, the button plane can rotate 270 degrees and the joystick has a simple spring mechanism to switch from 4-way to 8-way.
It was designed for the Sega consoles and Japanese computers that uses the atari pinout. One of the few sticks that fully supports FM-Towns. This one has been modified to match the Neo Geo pinout, minus the D button since this has only ABC and Start, Select buttons.
Huh?...No it ah not rotary stick like a Seimitsu LS-30 (I wish) so no Ikari Warriors. Only the button plane rotates really.yojo! wrote:Awesome ! so you could play Ikari Warriors and others SNK with this ?rolins wrote:It does, the button plane can rotate 270 degrees and the joystick has a simple spring mechanism to switch from 4-way to 8-way.
It was designed for the Sega consoles and Japanese computers that uses the atari pinout. One of the few sticks that fully supports FM-Towns. This one has been modified to match the Neo Geo pinout, minus the D button since this has only ABC and Start, Select buttons.
Essentially it'll work with any game. It's mainly the stick I use for shmups through FinalBurn Alpha, and Saturn and PS2 which I've built joystick adapters for.
Also, SNK rotary sticks use an extra harness for their games. Not just left/right, but every position it turns has a dedicated pin. So it's 28 pin JAMMA + x pin rotary harness.
Emph
Emph
| My games - http://www.emphatic.se | (Click) I have YEN stickers for sale
RegalSin wrote:Street Fighters. We need to aviod them when we activate time accellerator.
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The other end of the kick harness is plugged onto your game pcb. Know that certain games require a different kick harness (jamma+).eastbayarb wrote:rolins,
so i would connectors on the vogatek MKIII to a DB15 connector, and then the kick harness wires to the DB15 connector but where would the other end of the kick harness wires go to?
Here's more info this: http://homearcade.org/BBBB/plus.html
Yeah get one, XE-1PRO FC is a great arcade stick even has adjustable autofire. I use mine with my NES with an FC to Nes joystick adapter I built myself.Ed Oscuro wrote:Nice stick. I'm thinking I might get the FC version instead of using the Advantage on the A/V Fami.
Before buying though, the XE-1PRO FC is not compatible with the AV Famicom through it's 15pin expansion port. Even with my famicom to nes joystick adapter will cause the joystick to be unresponsive. Still haven't figured out why.
If you plug the XE-1 through the 7pin Nes controller port with an adaptor, it sort of works. The AV fami will recognize the joystick but tends to go screwy with games - freezing and unresponsive control.Ed Oscuro wrote:Wait, isn't it compatible with...some other port?rolins wrote:Before buying though, the XE-1PRO FC is not compatible with the AV Famicom through it's 15pin expansion port.
Apparently there are other FC accessories that are incompatible with the AV Famicom when plugged into its 15pin expansion port.
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It's a Wei-Ya Model: P032. It's very cheap, you can buy them for $24.95 + shipping from Jammaboards.comPC Engine Fan X! wrote:For rolins,
What manufacturer makes that arcade power supply you're using with your Vogatek Mk III supergun setup and how much did it set you back btw? I like the cool red colored LED display...very simple and elegant. ^_~
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
I highly recommend them over an ordinary PC ATX psu. They're smaller than a MVS cart and looks slick in black. Very silent too because it's fan-less and it doesn't need one either.
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rolins said, "It's a Wei-Ya Model: P032. It's very cheap, you can buy them for $24.95 + shipping from Jammaboards.com"
how dif you wire up that PSU to your mkIII? Does it have an on/off switch? The PSU I am using is a Sparkle Power Model FSP150-50PL1 just like this:
http://www.wirelesshut.com/317229/10599327.html
It is really quiet, small, and has screw holes in the front and back (I plan on mounting this and the mkIII in some sort of project box). The only problem is, there is no power on/off button, so in order to turn my MVS on/off, i have to unplug the PSU.
By the way, I have this vogatek mkIII hooked up to a 4-slot MVS and control pads (neo geo CD pads). What button should I press to change slots?
Before I forget, hereis the back of my Vogatek MKIII:
The guy I got it from wired up the back so audio can be carried through the SCART cable rather than the 1/8" stereo plug.
how dif you wire up that PSU to your mkIII? Does it have an on/off switch? The PSU I am using is a Sparkle Power Model FSP150-50PL1 just like this:
http://www.wirelesshut.com/317229/10599327.html
It is really quiet, small, and has screw holes in the front and back (I plan on mounting this and the mkIII in some sort of project box). The only problem is, there is no power on/off button, so in order to turn my MVS on/off, i have to unplug the PSU.
By the way, I have this vogatek mkIII hooked up to a 4-slot MVS and control pads (neo geo CD pads). What button should I press to change slots?
Before I forget, hereis the back of my Vogatek MKIII:
The guy I got it from wired up the back so audio can be carried through the SCART cable rather than the 1/8" stereo plug.
eastbayarb wrote:rolins said, "It's a Wei-Ya Model: P032. It's very cheap, you can buy them for $24.95 + shipping from Jammaboards.com"
how dif you wire up that PSU to your mkIII? Does it have an on/off switch? The PSU I am using is a Sparkle Power Model FSP150-50PL1 just like this:
http://www.wirelesshut.com/317229/10599327.html
It is really quiet, small, and has screw holes in the front and back (I plan on mounting this and the mkIII in some sort of project box). The only problem is, there is no power on/off button, so in order to turn my MVS on/off, i have to unplug the PSU.
If you want to use an arcade psu w/ your vogatek, you first need to find a loose 20pin ATX cable preferably from a broken psu. Remove all the wires except for Pin20 (+5v) Pin18 (-5v) Pin10 (+12v) and Pin17 (GND). Crimp a fork terminal to each wire and screw them to their corresponding screw terminal on the Wei-Ya psu. Each screw terminal is properly label. You'll also need an ordinary 3-prong PC power cord and cut the female end of the cable and expose the 3 wires - Green (GND), White (Neutral), and Black (Load/Hot). Crimp a fork terminals to each wire and screw them to corresponding terminals on the psu. When you're done you should have a total of 7 wires coming out of the psu like the way I have it in the pictures I posted.
Nope, the Wei-Ya P032 doesn't have a On/Off switch. Pulling the the plug is the only way to turn it off. I've thought about installing a rocker switch but I'm lazy, and it doesn't bother me that I have to reach for the power outlet that's only 3ft from my chair.
There's 3 more terminal blocks near the 2 capacitors. One of them is labeled "Sel" that's the select switch for MVS.By the way, I have this vogatek mkIII hooked up to a 4-slot MVS and control pads (neo geo CD pads). What button should I press to change slots?
If you're using a line level converter with this or a pair of 8ohm passive speakers, then skip the stuff I'm going to say below.
To me that's a dumb idea. From that picture you posted it doesn't even look like an attenuator was installed, meaning your audio is not converted to line level. If you plug that into your TV it will eventually damage your speakers including the amp on your game pcbs.