Finaly got my D-Lite supergun but am haveing a huge amount of technical problems ..
Game freezes/locks up
No sound at all on multiple speaker sets and with 2 diffrent sets of cables for speakers.
I had/have 2 Comadore 1084 monitors as backups in case the main LCD display i wanted to use didnt work out.. however when running composite though them all i get is a black and white picture.
On my main LCD that i had hoped to use the image is upside down as everently its built in rotation is the wrong way around for ibara.
Ibara PCB help ..fast :(
Re: Ibara PCB help ..fast :(
game freezing/lock up - voltage issue most likeley, may also be caused by a short circuit if indeed the sound pins are different from standard jamma.S1nn3r wrote:Finaly got my D-Lite supergun but am haveing a huge amount of technical problems ..
Game freezes/locks up
No sound at all on multiple speaker sets and with 2 diffrent sets of cables for speakers.
I had/have 2 Comadore 1084 monitors as backups in case the main LCD display i wanted to use didnt work out.. however when running composite though them all i get is a black and white picture.
On my main LCD that i had hoped to use the image is upside down as everently its built in rotation is the wrong way around for ibara.
sound - im not sure, maybe Ibara has a special wireing for stereo sound, sounds like youre getting straight jamma (ie mono) sound now, thats normal, if you have the manual check the ibara connector schematics vs the supergun connector schematics.
composit + PCBs = no no!, RGB or component my friend.
Ibara rotation = all the cave PCBs have this rotation so its your LCD thats rotated the wrong way
all these issues can be fixed, dont worry you didnt buy the wrong supergun (unless it ONLY has composit out
)...the destruction of everything, is the beginning of something new. your whole world is on fire, and soon, you'll be too..
Voltage issue..doesnt sound good at all, and I have no idea how id go about fixing this.. infact i couldnt, id have to get/find someone else to do so, and in the mean time id rather not use the board for fear of damage, that is unless it hasnt already done so of corse ...
I am not getting sound at all .. mono or otherwise. And since the instructions for ibara including the pinout stuff is in japanese i have no way to check it against a standard jamma pinout.
Supergun has composite and s-video. Reason I didnt go RGB is the main display i wanted to use doesnt have SCART.. this would be the aformentioned wrongly rotateing LCD to which makes it all the more depressing.
So it would seem my first steps into the "arcade at home" thing have gone realy rather wrong indeed.
I am not getting sound at all .. mono or otherwise. And since the instructions for ibara including the pinout stuff is in japanese i have no way to check it against a standard jamma pinout.
Supergun has composite and s-video. Reason I didnt go RGB is the main display i wanted to use doesnt have SCART.. this would be the aformentioned wrongly rotateing LCD to which makes it all the more depressing.
So it would seem my first steps into the "arcade at home" thing have gone realy rather wrong indeed.
So as far as the audio goes its more then likely the attenuation circuit that is is causeing the problems then, and that in turn means that the freezing is most likely caused by a voltage issue of some kind...
What is required to fix these two problems exactly ?.... and i do mean exactly, since if i am geting any soldering work done localy i will have to provide explicit to the letter instructions as to what needs done and how. As i am unable skill wise and not equiped to do such work myself.
What is required to fix these two problems exactly ?.... and i do mean exactly, since if i am geting any soldering work done localy i will have to provide explicit to the letter instructions as to what needs done and how. As i am unable skill wise and not equiped to do such work myself.
Oh right, I forgot. 
I did have probs with D-lites guns playing sound with Ibara and the other Cave SH3 games. One way I got it to work was connecting the board while the gun was ON (be careful if you try that, you don't want to get electrocuted). The other gun I had had an attentuation on/off switch, so I just had to flick this switch after I powered on the gun for the sound to come through.
A third option is to open the gun and disconnect the audio attenuation. I don't really know why he put that in his guns as it causes more problems than it solves.
I did have probs with D-lites guns playing sound with Ibara and the other Cave SH3 games. One way I got it to work was connecting the board while the gun was ON (be careful if you try that, you don't want to get electrocuted). The other gun I had had an attentuation on/off switch, so I just had to flick this switch after I powered on the gun for the sound to come through.A third option is to open the gun and disconnect the audio attenuation. I don't really know why he put that in his guns as it causes more problems than it solves.
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PC Engine Fan X!
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- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:32 pm
Possible cures for your ailing Supergun woes...
For S1nn3r,
Are you using either a true arcade power supply unit or a PC-type of PSU? (If you are using a PC-type of PSU, then it wouldn't be possible to adjust the 5v line anyways...)
Some arcade PCBs are finicky when it comes to the 5v line, too little of it and your PCBs will end up glitching and freezing up. Now if you do have a "true" arcade power supply unit that powers up your Supergun setup, then by using a voltameter, measure the 5v line on the Jamma pinout edge connection interface to show just how much "5v" is really being put out. Then try it again with your Ibara PCB plugged in + powered up and measure again what the 5v line currently registers. Slowly adjust the 5v pot (with a flat-head screwdriver or slotted Philips screwdriver) on your Supergun's PSU until your Ibara PCB stops freezing up & runs normally without those freezing up issues -- problem solved. ^_~
You might as well either pick up an XRGB-2+ or the XRGB-3 upscan convertor to have analog RGB extracted from your Supergun to properly display on such LCD-type of monitor. Otherwise, like sven666 has mentioned, go with analog RGB or component video output when dealing with Superguns for the best picture output-wise.
I have two different Superguns and they both output in analog RGB and is piped through an Japanese RGB 21-pin cable interface which is then plugged into an XRGB-2 upscan convertor hooked up to an analog CRT-type SVGA monitor setup. Of course, for the best picture, one would resort to a true low-resolution 15kHz monitor that is capable of accepting analog RGB input signal (i.e. the Commodore Amiga monitors) and bypass the XRGB upscan convertor & SVGA monitor setup entirely. ^_~
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
Are you using either a true arcade power supply unit or a PC-type of PSU? (If you are using a PC-type of PSU, then it wouldn't be possible to adjust the 5v line anyways...)
Some arcade PCBs are finicky when it comes to the 5v line, too little of it and your PCBs will end up glitching and freezing up. Now if you do have a "true" arcade power supply unit that powers up your Supergun setup, then by using a voltameter, measure the 5v line on the Jamma pinout edge connection interface to show just how much "5v" is really being put out. Then try it again with your Ibara PCB plugged in + powered up and measure again what the 5v line currently registers. Slowly adjust the 5v pot (with a flat-head screwdriver or slotted Philips screwdriver) on your Supergun's PSU until your Ibara PCB stops freezing up & runs normally without those freezing up issues -- problem solved. ^_~
You might as well either pick up an XRGB-2+ or the XRGB-3 upscan convertor to have analog RGB extracted from your Supergun to properly display on such LCD-type of monitor. Otherwise, like sven666 has mentioned, go with analog RGB or component video output when dealing with Superguns for the best picture output-wise.
I have two different Superguns and they both output in analog RGB and is piped through an Japanese RGB 21-pin cable interface which is then plugged into an XRGB-2 upscan convertor hooked up to an analog CRT-type SVGA monitor setup. Of course, for the best picture, one would resort to a true low-resolution 15kHz monitor that is capable of accepting analog RGB input signal (i.e. the Commodore Amiga monitors) and bypass the XRGB upscan convertor & SVGA monitor setup entirely. ^_~
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
Last edited by PC Engine Fan X! on Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Possible cures for your ailing Supergun woes...
The PSU for the Supergun is a small laptop style brick style one.. not user modifiable at all.PC Engine Fan X! wrote:For S1nn3r,
Are you using either a true arcade power supply unit or a PC-type of PSU? (If you are using a PC-type of PSU, then it wouldn't be possible to adjust the 5v line anyways...)
Some arcade PCBs are finicky when it comes to the 5v line, too little of it and your PCBs will end up glitching and freezing up. Now if you do have a "true" arcade power supply unit that powers up your Supergun setup, then by using a voltameter, measure the 5v line on the Jamma pinout edge connection interface to show just how much "5v" is really being put out. Then try it again with your Ibara PCB plugged in + powered up and measure again what the 5v line currently registers. Slowly adjust the 5v pot on your Supergun until your Ibara stops freezing up and runs normally without those freezing up issues -- problem solved. ^_~
You might as well either pick up an XRGB-2+ or the XRGB-3 upscan convertor to have analog RGB extracted from your Supergun to properly display on such LCD-type of monitor. Otherwise, like sven666 has mentioned, go with analog RGB or component video output when dealing with Superguns for the best picture output-wise.
I have two different Superguns and they both output in analog RGB and is piped through an Japanese RGB 21-pinout into an XRGB-2 upscan convertor into an analog CRT-type SVGA monitor setup. Of course, for the best picture, one would resort to a true low-resolution 15kHz monitor that is capable of accepting analog RGB input signal (i.e. the Commodore Amiga monitors).
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
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PC Engine Fan X!
- Posts: 8456
- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:32 pm
Re: Possible cures for your ailing Supergun woes...
For S1nn3r,S1nn3r wrote:The PSU for the Supergun is a small laptop style brick style one.. not user modifiable at all.PC Engine Fan X! wrote:For S1nn3r,
Are you using either a true arcade power supply unit or a PC-type of PSU? (If you are using a PC-type of PSU, then it wouldn't be possible to adjust the 5v line anyways...)
Some arcade PCBs are finicky when it comes to the 5v line, too little of it and your PCBs will end up glitching and freezing up. Now if you do have a "true" arcade power supply unit that powers up your Supergun setup, then by using a voltameter, measure the 5v line on the Jamma pinout edge connection interface to show just how much "5v" is really being put out. Then try it again with your Ibara PCB plugged in + powered up and measure again what the 5v line currently registers. Slowly adjust the 5v pot on your Supergun until your Ibara stops freezing up and runs normally without those freezing up issues -- problem solved. ^_~
You might as well either pick up an XRGB-2+ or the XRGB-3 upscan convertor to have analog RGB extracted from your Supergun to properly display on such LCD-type of monitor. Otherwise, like sven666 has mentioned, go with analog RGB or component video output when dealing with Superguns for the best picture output-wise.
I have two different Superguns and they both output in analog RGB and is piped through an Japanese RGB 21-pinout into an XRGB-2 upscan convertor into an analog CRT-type SVGA monitor setup. Of course, for the best picture, one would resort to a true low-resolution 15kHz monitor that is capable of accepting analog RGB input signal (i.e. the Commodore Amiga monitors).
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
What you described to me is what is known as a PC-type of PSU -- they have their positive and negative merits to powering up such Supergun setups.
What you really need is a PSU that is dedicated to powering up arcade PCBs and has an adjustable 5 volt pot so it can increased or decreased (depending on the particular arcade PCB's 5v tempermental needs at the moment). It's time to search "high & low" for a true arcade PSU for your Supergun and you'll be able to play your precious Ibara PCB in no time flat. My suggestion is to get rid of that dreaded PC-type of PSU for good. Good luck on finding an arcade PCB specific PSU... ^_~
PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
Despite what most people think desktop PSUs often have an adjustable knob, it's just not accessible if you don't open thtm up. I'm pretty positive your supergun uses either a SW300 or an SC200 Ault PSU. In this thread I showed the knob on the SW300. If you have the SC200 open it up (unplug it first!) and if you're not sure post pics.
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114650
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114650
Seems i have an SC200. Anyone able to supply me with a pic of what needs adjusted exactly ?MKL wrote:Despite what most people think desktop PSUs often have an adjustable knob, it's just not accessible if you don't open thtm up. I'm pretty positive your supergun uses either a SW300 or an SC200 Ault PSU. In this thread I showed the knob on the SW300. If you have the SC200 open it up (unplug it first!) and if you're not sure post pics.
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114650
http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/3272/2ez7pn9ql1.jpg
Run the supergun setup with the PSU shell off and measure the voltage at the jamma edge connector (on the PCB). If it's below 5.00 turn the knob (right or left is unknown until you try) slowly with a crosshead screwdriver (be careful not to touch other things in the PSU) while reading the voltage on the multimeter and stop at 5.05/5.10. If it doesn't fix the reset raise it again a little but don't go over 5.30.
Run the supergun setup with the PSU shell off and measure the voltage at the jamma edge connector (on the PCB). If it's below 5.00 turn the knob (right or left is unknown until you try) slowly with a crosshead screwdriver (be careful not to touch other things in the PSU) while reading the voltage on the multimeter and stop at 5.05/5.10. If it doesn't fix the reset raise it again a little but don't go over 5.30.