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It's not unthinkable that someone here would do something like this, but it's not the most common subject on this forum. You would have more joy somewhere like hackaday.io or even on EEVblog forums. Something where general maker stuff or hardware hacking is the main focus rather than hardware as it relates to arcade cabinets and video game consoles and related. Most people hacking into an OSD on Shmups are doing so to inject an RGB signal for a better game quality game console input
Best is still the old Extron Crosspoints, used on ebay. Professional grade equipment (mine was something like $44,000.00 USD back in the day...). You DO need adapters for your SCART which can add up... but if you do the math on something like the uber-expensive GSCART (which in my eyes it's exorbitantly priced, and a pretty cheap Crosspoint + Adapters, the last time I did that math (market may vary now) the Crosspoint was STILL cheaper than the gscart AND has a MASSIVE list of features the GSCART doesn't have (starting with the ability to lossless-switch everything: composite, s-video, RGBS, RGsB, Component, RGBHV/VGA, etc.).ldeveraux wrote: ↑Sun Apr 07, 2024 12:16 pm What's the current best SCART switch we should be using? I have 4x Bandridge switches matrixed into another switch and I'm starting to see some video degradation. I already own all the cables and don't want to go full out composite on all my systems at this time. Is the GSCARTSW still recommended? I'd need 2 so would hope to not have to go that route as they aren't cheap. is the Hydra 2 Revised any good, it's considerably cheaper.
best to post in the RGB Mod thread, or start your own thread: viewtopic.php?t=56155&start=5100
Thanks againvol.2 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 08, 2024 3:25 pmbest to post in the RGB Mod thread, or start your own thread: viewtopic.php?t=56155&start=5100
I have wondered this too. On my BVM if I terminate then the brightness goes ridiculously low to the point that brightness needs to be pumped to max to compensate. This feels off to me so I leave them unterminated. Hopefully it’s not breaking anythingvol.2 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 12, 2024 11:44 pm Okay this is probably a pretty dumb one, but I couldn't find a satisfactory answer from google.
What's the reason for using 75 Ohm BNC terminators VS just lowering the G2 and contrast on the set without them? If the monitor looks good and the color tracks perfectly without them, why bother?
If you're talking about PVM's and BVM's, those are MEANT to be used with terminators. PVM's generally auto-terminate (inside circuitry, no external terminators needed); BVM's need external terminators by design.
Something is wrong with your monitor if it isn't working properly with terminators. I would get it looked at by somebody since commonly if one thing is broken, it can also cause other things to break through time.
Dochartaigh wrote: ↑Sat Apr 13, 2024 8:10 am
If you're talking about PVM's and BVM's, those are MEANT to be used with terminators
Totally making an educated guess here, but when you use the OUTput of the monitors, when you either manually remove the terminator (BVM), or the PVM does it automatically when you plug in the cable - it gives it a little more juice to get the signal over to the other monitor, via whatever length of cable you're using.
I sort of suspect this. In which case, simply turning down the brightness a little is absolutely fine and give identical results. I think it's probably just a feature for the broadcast environment that enables simplification of daisy-chaining with respect to signal levels. If you are only ever going to operate a monitor in isolation, I think it probably makes zero difference if you use a terminator or not, as long as you turn it down a littleDochartaigh wrote: ↑Sat Apr 13, 2024 5:58 pm When it doesn't have to power the other monitors signal, if it was used without termination (either you didn't physically put one on, or the PVM's auto-terminating isn't working right), the signal is then too high (bright) on your monitor.
So, it's not really a huge issue if you leave them off, but you might end up seeing ghosting or frequency response errors if you are using a source without proper 75 ohm impedance. Essentially, it generally doesn't matter. Putting the 75 ohm terminators is more or less a redundancy to eliminate any chances of reflection. So in that regards, it's best to do it just to be safe, especially if you don't know what's going on with your sources.If you don't terminate, the signal will be reflected from the monitor input back towards the source. If the source has a good, accurate 75 ohm impedance it will absorb that reflection and no harm is done. Otherwise part or all of the signal will be reflected back towards the monitor. Depending on cable length this can cause frequency response errors or possibly ghost images.
In practice, it's often not a problem if a monitor is left unterminated. The frequency response errors and ghost images will often be negligible. Most monitors will tolerate excess video amplitude. There's no question of stressing or harming a monitor with 2Vp-p of video. But just because you can often get away without terminating doesn't make it right.
I don't think it'll make any real difference. The buttons are all on the other side of a shift register from the cable anyways. If changing the length or characteristics of the cable itself effect the impedance, it will only impact the termination, and I would seriously doubt that the console would not be tolerant of the difference.
Xbox? This thing works well, but they are in between batches right now, not sure about their restock.Marc wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2024 7:23 am Trying to connect an OG Bbix to an HDTV bef9re I end up buying a CRT I have no room for.....
Looks like washed out shit with the powered HDMI adaptor I'm using. I've seen similar boxes that accept the composite cables from the Xbix rather than just plugging directly in, is this likely to be much of a jump, or am I just wasting mire time and money.
No component, HDMI only, shame as it looked spectacular on my old HDTV. I actually did a side by side of OutRun 2 via component, BC X360 HDMI, and Online Arcade, and there was something pleasingly chunky about the component in comparison. I've ordered a cheap scaler box, fingers crossed.vol.2 wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2024 3:54 pmXbox? This thing works well, but they are in between batches right now, not sure about their restock.Marc wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2024 7:23 am Trying to connect an OG Bbix to an HDTV bef9re I end up buying a CRT I have no room for.....
Looks like washed out shit with the powered HDMI adaptor I'm using. I've seen similar boxes that accept the composite cables from the Xbix rather than just plugging directly in, is this likely to be much of a jump, or am I just wasting mire time and money.
Or you can obviously just buy the component video cable and then use an upscaler to attach it to your HDTV. You would want something that can take a 480p input like the Retrotink 5X
However, you may get sufficient quality out of just using the component cables if you HDTV has a component input because the XBOX can do 480p (so it doesn't need to be deinterlaced) for almost the entire catalog. It would depend on how well your HDTV does line doubling and how picky you are about the results
If the upscaler uses the component input, you can at least take advantage of the 480p output. Usually the worst aspect of the cheapo scalers is the bad deinterlacing and lag introduced because of it. Also the composite output is going to have crappy color fringing and other artifacts that have to be filtered.Marc wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2024 6:38 pm No component, HDMI only, shame as it looked spectacular on my old HDTV. I actually did a side by side of OutRun 2 via component, BC X360 HDMI, and Online Arcade, and there was something pleasingly chunky about the component in comparison. I've ordered a cheap scaler box, fingers crossed.