Ramzelle wrote: ↑Sat Apr 13, 2024 7:20 amI have a few questions as a novice modder in reference to the AA-2D Chassis if you have the time.
Do I install .01uf Ceramic Caps into C360/C361/C362 sockets
Where do you run the sync signal to, is it as simple as joining the center pin of sync to the positive leg of C360 Cap with the Y signal?
Following these directions would this properly Mux the OSD, it seems... too simple?
I would reach out to Lanr757 but it seems he hasn't been active in some time, If you have any correspondence with him could you forward it to me, might go a long in helping me.
Trying to theory craft as much as I can before diving in. Appreciate the write up OP
I helped some people with AA-2D TVs but it's been a while and my memory isn't good enough to remember specifics as to what component goes where. The process is basically the same as the BA-4 & 4D.
Essentially, what you need is:
- Pr and Pb signals go the the ER-Y and ER-B pins respectively. Both of them require a 75 ohm terminating resistor to ground and an inline 0.1 uF coupling capacitor.
- Y signal is used for both component luma and for sync. It needs to be routed in two places. First, to the E-Y input pin with an inline 0.1 uF capacitor. Second, to the S-Video luma input. Because the S-Video input already has 75 ohm termination, you don't the 75 ohm resistor on this one.
- A 5v blanking signal to the YUVSW pin. Run this through a SPDT switch with an inline 1k ohm resistor for safety.
Using different RCA jacks, I successfully completed the AA-2D component mod.
Question though - the original post reported using 0.01 uf coupling capacitors, but the AA-2D report by KPackratt2K utilized .47 uf coupling capacitors, as some boards populate C360-361-362 with 0.47 uf from the factory. During my troubleshooting, I attempted 0.01 uf, 0.1 uf, and 0.47 uf - with no apparent difference. Any idea how to calculate the ideal capacitance for coupling?
KPackratt2K also recommended populating 220 ohm resistors in-line with the YPbPr signals (again, there are factory holes for these). I added these with success - are they actually required for the AA-2D?
swankerme wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2024 9:15 pm
Using different RCA jacks, I successfully completed the AA-2D component mod.
Question though - the original post reported using 0.01 uf coupling capacitors, but the AA-2D report by KPackratt2K utilized .47 uf coupling capacitors, as some boards populate C360-361-362 with 0.47 uf from the factory. During my troubleshooting, I attempted 0.01 uf, 0.1 uf, and 0.47 uf - with no apparent difference. Any idea how to calculate the ideal capacitance for coupling?
KPackratt2K also recommended populating 220 ohm resistors in-line with the YPbPr signals (again, there are factory holes for these). I added these with success - are they actually required for the AA-2D?
You can use a very wide range of coupling capacitors. Factory is 0.01 uF for most TVs. I usually use 0.1 uF because I have a lot of them already.
I've never used inline resistors. There shouldn't be a need for them but if it's working for you, then might as well leave it that way!
matt wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2024 8:44 am
I helped some people with AA-2D TVs but it's been a while and my memory isn't good enough to remember specifics as to what component goes where. The process is basically the same as the BA-4 & 4D.
Essentially, what you need is:
- Pr and Pb signals go the the ER-Y and ER-B pins respectively. Both of them require a 75 ohm terminating resistor to ground and an inline 0.1 uF coupling capacitor.
- Y signal is used for both component luma and for sync. It needs to be routed in two places. First, to the E-Y input pin with an inline 0.1 uF capacitor. Second, to the S-Video luma input. Because the S-Video input already has 75 ohm termination, you don't the 75 ohm resistor on this one.
- A 5v blanking signal to the YUVSW pin. Run this through a SPDT switch with an inline 1k ohm resistor for safety.
Thanks for all the help, I decided to map out the project so I could get a better understanding. Please let me know if I messed something up.
1. I would like to completely preserve Video 1 if possible, is there a switch that could do the following? and is this a hazard if I accidentally send 2 audio signals at the same time.(i.e. I've read ps2 always sends power down audio)
Blank 5 Volt
Send Sync to Luma
Send Comp Audio L to Video 1
Send Comp Audio R to Video 1
2. Should I run the 5v before or after the R1352
Spoiler
Ramzelle wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2024 5:44 am
Thanks for all the help, I decided to map out the project so I could get a better understanding. Please let me know if I messed something up.
1. I would like to completely preserve Video 1 if possible, is there a switch that could do the following? and is this a hazard if I accidentally send 2 audio signals at the same time.(i.e. I've read ps2 always sends power down audio)
Blank 5 Volt
Send Sync to Luma
Send Comp Audio L to Video 1
Send Comp Audio R to Video 1
2. Should I run the 5v before or after the R1352
You could use a 5PDT rotary switch and use two of the poles for audio. You'd have to cut the audio connections from the rear jacks in the process. On thing to keep in mind if you hook audio up internally, the TV joins both channels together if there's nothing plugged into the red RCA jack so you'll have to cut that connection. I wouldn't have two systems plugged in at once - at the very least it'll hurt the sound quality. External switchers are easy to get and might be less trouble overall.
You may have to use one pole for the S-Video detect pin (I think this TV has one). And, if you want to separate the S-Video input you'll have to cut the sync signal as well.
The video signals need to pass through the coupling capacitors on their way to the jungle chip. Your diagram has them on the wrong side.
The blanking signal should be fine on either side of that resistor.
Ramzelle, your plan/drawing looks good. Let me know if it works out.
I did almost the same thing with my AA-2D. The mod pushes red phosphors and my blacks are no longer black - I had to scrap the project. Let me know if yours works out!
swankerme wrote: ↑Fri Apr 19, 2024 5:14 pm
Ramzelle, your plan/drawing looks good. Let me know if it works out.
I did almost the same thing with my AA-2D. The mod pushes red phosphors and my blacks are no longer black - I had to scrap the project. Let me know if yours works out!
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the black level of the component mod is higher than the default inputs. You have to compensate by reducing brightness in the user menu.
Also, the "red push" feature is still present with component, unlike RGB mods which bypass it. You can turn it off in the service menu.
If t'hat doesn't help the problem, either something's wrong with the mod or the TV's color balance is off (also adjustable in the service menu).
I wish it was the color balance, but the set has good balance to begin with. S-video mode (blanking switch OFF) has black scanlines; when I flip to switch to blank YUVSW ON, those horizontal scanlines turn red. I've played with color settings , lowered G2 brightness, etc. I've tried multiple RCA inputs, different coupling capacitor values, in-line resistors vs no resistors, moving signal line locations away from flyback, etc. No effect on the red lines. I'm not convinced AA-2D is compatible with this mod, at least from a "pure signal" point of view. It works - but the color change is unacceptable to me. The mod really is very simple - there isn't much to mess up, and I have checked/redone all points over a dozen times. Hence why I really hope Ramzelle has success and can share.
swankerme wrote: ↑Fri Apr 19, 2024 5:14 pm
Ramzelle, your plan/drawing looks good. Let me know if it works out.
I did almost the same thing with my AA-2D. The mod pushes red phosphors and my blacks are no longer black - I had to scrap the project. Let me know if yours works out!
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the black level of the component mod is higher than the default inputs. You have to compensate by reducing brightness in the user menu.
Also, the "red push" feature is still present with component, unlike RGB mods which bypass it. You can turn it off in the service menu.
If t'hat doesn't help the problem, either something's wrong with the mod or the TV's color balance is off (also adjustable in the service menu).
swankerme wrote: ↑Fri Apr 19, 2024 8:47 pm
I wish it was the color balance, but the set has good balance to begin with. S-video mode (blanking switch OFF) has black scanlines; when I flip to switch to blank YUVSW ON, those horizontal scanlines turn red. I've played with color settings , lowered G2 brightness, etc. I've tried multiple RCA inputs, different coupling capacitor values, in-line resistors vs no resistors, moving signal line locations away from flyback, etc. No effect on the red lines. I'm not convinced AA-2D is compatible with this mod, at least from a "pure signal" point of view. It works - but the color change is unacceptable to me. The mod really is very simple - there isn't much to mess up, and I have checked/redone all points over a dozen times. Hence why I really hope Ramzelle has success and can share.
Interesting. I haven't done this mod on an AA-2D myself, but I've helped a couple other people with it and they didn't report any color issues. I'll have to investigate next time I get the chance.
Hey yall was able to successfully complete the mod on AA-2D Chassis, I ended up just going as simple as possible, killed s-video for good on Video 1 and just hard lined the sync. I set it up so I can switch the blanking pin in the front which had a good spot for a small hole to be drilled and a ground right next to the it. very short straight lines easy on off switch. Fucked up the Sync signal multiple times and ended up needed to switch the sync pin. you'll see in the photos. I removed the TV tuner cause fuck RF on a modded TV lol. I used the holes which fit perfectly for GBR inputs. Makes it easy to take the back off and don't need to disconnect anything. Please Matt if you see anything wrong in the photos let me know because there a couple issues and if you think I made a mistake to cause it id like to try but I'm doubtful.
THE CONS:
I think this TV is worn as fuck and I just didn't realize it. I need to absolutely Blast Picture to 100% in order to get a vibrant screen and it just gets blurry. Focus Pot adjustment and G2 cranked nothin makes it better. kinda defeats the purpose of the mod if it get blurry but hey at low picture it looks good
The Color Balance was rocked by this mod which is why I am leaning towards worn tube. I knew the black levels were going to change but it killed 50% of my blues and sub brightness needed to be at 55 in the service menu. so again please if it wired incorrectly let me know.
Next goal is to find a rejuvenator and clean&balance this tv and see if I can restore it a bit. Overall easy mod once I figured out all this technical mumbo jumbo (I barely can read the Board Diagrams), it took more time to recap the hot spots than the mod itself. https://imgur.com/gallery/ynasnPk
Ramzelle wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 5:10 am
Hey yall was able to successfully complete the mod on AA-2D Chassis, I ended up just going as simple as possible, killed s-video for good on Video 1 and just hard lined the sync. I set it up so I can switch the blanking pin in the front which had a good spot for a small hole to be drilled and a ground right next to the it. very short straight lines easy on off switch. Fucked up the Sync signal multiple times and ended up needed to switch the sync pin. you'll see in the photos. I removed the TV tuner cause fuck RF on a modded TV lol. I used the holes which fit perfectly for GBR inputs. Makes it easy to take the back off and don't need to disconnect anything. Please Matt if you see anything wrong in the photos let me know because there a couple issues and if you think I made a mistake to cause it id like to try but I'm doubtful.
I can't see any red flags - the only part that's missing in your photos are the connections for the YPbPr lines themselves. But they're properly terminated and as long as the signals pass through those coupling caps it should work.
THE CONS:
I think this TV is worn as fuck and I just didn't realize it. I need to absolutely Blast Picture to 100% in order to get a vibrant screen and it just gets blurry. Focus Pot adjustment and G2 cranked nothin makes it better. kinda defeats the purpose of the mod if it get blurry but hey at low picture it looks good
The Color Balance was rocked by this mod which is why I am leaning towards worn tube. I knew the black levels were going to change but it killed 50% of my blues and sub brightness needed to be at 55 in the service menu. so again please if it wired incorrectly let me know.
Next goal is to find a rejuvenator and clean&balance this tv and see if I can restore it a bit. Overall easy mod once I figured out all this technical mumbo jumbo (I barely can read the Board Diagrams), it took more time to recap the hot spots than the mod itself. https://imgur.com/gallery/ynasnPk
Was the TV like that before you did the mod? Typically the mod will make the TV too bright and reduce the color saturation. So you'll have to turn brightness down and color up. However, it shouldn't affect the color balance vs composite/svideo. If you're blues have gone to shit there might be something wrong with the Pb line.
Don't get your hopes up on a rejuvinator. Their success rate with Trinitron tubes isn't very good and there's a serious risk of killing the tube for good. That's not a big loss if the TV's already worn out so it's usually worth a shot. But it's probably easier and cheaper to find another TV than to buy a late model tube tester.
matt wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 8:44 am
I can't see any red flags - the only part that's missing in your photos are the connections for the YPbPr lines themselves. But they're properly terminated and as long as the signals pass through those coupling caps it should work.
Was the TV like that before you did the mod? Typically the mod will make the TV too bright and reduce the color saturation. So you'll have to turn brightness down and color up. However, it shouldn't affect the color balance vs composite/svideo. If you're blues have gone to shit there might be something wrong with the Pb line.
Don't get your hopes up on a rejuvinator. Their success rate with Trinitron tubes isn't very good and there's a serious risk of killing the tube for good. That's not a big loss if the TV's already worn out so it's usually worth a shot. But it's probably easier and cheaper to find another TV than to buy a late model tube tester.
I didnt take many picture before hand but I think so. the blue was always a little more dull and the picture did feel flatter overall. It was blurry before the mod so I was hoping that was just some svideo lower quality. I like the mod overall since my extron setup is completely component which makes this easily able to be a new output. At first I was disappointed but I gave it some time and I think in game it still looks great. the geo is amazing compared to my Flats trinis so big win there.
As for the rejuv yea that's a strech goal if I can find an affordable unit with the low voltage clean and balance.
Ramzelle wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 4:01 pm
I didnt take many picture before hand but I think so. the blue was always a little more dull and the picture did feel flatter overall. It was blurry before the mod so I was hoping that was just some svideo lower quality. I like the mod overall since my extron setup is completely component which makes this easily able to be a new output. At first I was disappointed but I gave it some time and I think in game it still looks great. the geo is amazing compared to my Flats trinis so big win there.
As for the rejuv yea that's a strech goal if I can find an affordable unit with the low voltage clean and balance.
Ah, that's a worn out tube for sure! The bleeding red is typical. Have you tried increasing blue cutoff in the service menu?
There's a chance a new flyback would help - sometimes the focus pot goes bad. But if the tube is worn out it's probably not worth investing much in a replacement.
matt wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 8:56 pm
Ah, that's a worn out tube for sure! The bleeding red is typical. Have you tried increasing blue cutoff in the service menu?
There's a chance a new flyback would help - sometimes the focus pot goes bad. But if the tube is worn out it's probably not worth investing much in a replacement.
I suspect the tube, Focus pot works up until a point and the screen is crisp at low picture. but regardless thanks for the help man. Feeling confident if I get another set I can easily do this again.
The hunt never ends ;D
Hello everyone! I've semi-successfully performed this mod on an AA-2D (KV-35S42), but I'm having a bit of an issue. The white point is messed up, whites are almost gray and the image is generally dim. I'm guessing I've messed something up on the Luma line but I'm not sure what. Anyone have any ideas of what this could be?
chickenxhat wrote: ↑Fri Jan 13, 2023 10:23 am
I am trying to mod a KV-27v22 for component and have largely followed packrats information, however I am getting only luma correctly working. I followed the following from his post (https://imgur.io/a/BjLmET0) but wired directly and omitted the switch, as I won't be using RGB or S-Video and am happy to more or less permanently alter the set to run component. That said, I still removed those components that the imgur pics indicated should be removed and added those it said needed to be added, paying attention to polarity for the caps. My real problem is simply wiring up the input jacks. When I first wired it up I got nothing, and noticed that when I pulled out Luma that I brushed the male jack against the outer sleeve of the female connector I bought, suggesting I had it wired in reverse where the wires arrive at the connector from the main board. I swapped and now Luma works as intended, but I'm having no luck at all with wiring the two chroma lines. I have 1ea 75ohm resistor for these lines as intended, I'm just totally not wiring things in the proper sequence and would love it if someone could assist me with getting it right.
The ypbpr wiring diagram in the above referenced imgur link makes sense to me until I actually wire it up and see that I clearly don't have it correct, and now I'm worried that I'm just not understanding where split the lines for ground and the 75Rs on the chroma lines. A clear picture would be great. More, the picture of the actual jacks wired up don't seem to match the diagram. Why is that? Maybe I'm just not reading it correctly.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
UPDATE: I modified the original diagram to show how I am attempting to wire this: https://imgur.com/Eclv8Mf
SECOND UPDATE: a reddit user pointed out that I was mistakenly believing the line from PYS to the switch in the original diagram was only related to RGBs, but is needed to activate blanking for the YPbPr signal. I will connect that line later today and see how it goes.
THIRD UPDATE: added that line with a switch to break it, got chroma but very dark. Swapped polarity of luma and everything looks right only the image is scrolling, like ironically it isn’t actually synced. Can someone evaluate?
Did you ever figure this out? I’m having a very similar issue where everything “works” but the image is very very dark.
swankerme wrote: ↑Fri Apr 19, 2024 8:47 pm
I wish it was the color balance, but the set has good balance to begin with. S-video mode (blanking switch OFF) has black scanlines; when I flip to switch to blank YUVSW ON, those horizontal scanlines turn red. I've played with color settings , lowered G2 brightness, etc. I've tried multiple RCA inputs, different coupling capacitor values, in-line resistors vs no resistors, moving signal line locations away from flyback, etc. No effect on the red lines. I'm not convinced AA-2D is compatible with this mod, at least from a "pure signal" point of view. It works - but the color change is unacceptable to me. The mod really is very simple - there isn't much to mess up, and I have checked/redone all points over a dozen times. Hence why I really hope Ramzelle has success and can share.
Interesting. I haven't done this mod on an AA-2D myself, but I've helped a couple other people with it and they didn't report any color issues. I'll have to investigate next time I get the chance.
Matt, first off thanks for all the work you’ve done on this topic. I was wondering if from what you know of the AA-2D mods, if you know whether C375 needs to be removed. Wondering if that could be contributing to the luma issues I’m having since it is on the Y line. (FYI this photo is before I hooked things up, it’s just to illustrate where C375 is)
Bard_the_Bowman wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2024 8:19 pm
Matt, first off thanks for all the work you’ve done on this topic. I was wondering if from what you know of the AA-2D mods, if you know whether C375 needs to be removed. Wondering if that could be contributing to the luma issues I’m having since it is on the Y line. (FYI this photo is before I hooked things up, it’s just to illustrate where C375 is)
Yes, you'll definitely want to remove that. You don't want any decoupling capacitors on the luma signal - it could very well be responsible for your problem!
Bard_the_Bowman wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2024 8:19 pm
Matt, first off thanks for all the work you’ve done on this topic. I was wondering if from what you know of the AA-2D mods, if you know whether C375 needs to be removed. Wondering if that could be contributing to the luma issues I’m having since it is on the Y line. (FYI this photo is before I hooked things up, it’s just to illustrate where C375 is)
Yes, you'll definitely want to remove that. You don't want any decoupling capacitors on the luma signal - it could very well be responsible for your problem!
Thanks so much! It is currently under a fairly significant blob of hot glue (to hold the wires and capacitors I installed in place) so I wanted to get some input before I tackle the hot glue removal
I knew I shouldn't have glued it before testing
I'll see if I can't remove the glue tonight and get rid of the capacitor.
Edit: If I can get it working, I'm going to try to put together a step-by-step photo guide for the AA-2D (I've been taking pictures at every step along the way). There's been some folks in this thread with very helpful written advice for the AA-2D, but for someone like me who's fairly new to this, it's kind of difficult to put it all together without photos, so I'm hoping to contribute in that regard.
Bard_the_Bowman wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2024 8:19 pm
Matt, first off thanks for all the work you’ve done on this topic. I was wondering if from what you know of the AA-2D mods, if you know whether C375 needs to be removed. Wondering if that could be contributing to the luma issues I’m having since it is on the Y line. (FYI this photo is before I hooked things up, it’s just to illustrate where C375 is)
Yes, you'll definitely want to remove that. You don't want any decoupling capacitors on the luma signal - it could very well be responsible for your problem!
That worked! Thanks!
It is very bright now though (I expected that based on this thread). Has anyone tried putting resistors inline to address that? Looking at the board (on the AA-2D at least), it originally would have had resistors on the component lines from the PIP circuit. I might give it a go. I'd like to not have to change brightness when switching back and forth from S-Video.
Bard_the_Bowman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 30, 2024 5:07 am
It is very bright now though (I expected that based on this thread). Has anyone tried putting resistors inline to address that? Looking at the board (on the AA-2D at least), it originally would have had resistors on the component lines from the PIP circuit. I might give it a go. I'd like to not have to change brightness when switching back and forth from S-Video.
You could try putting a resistor on the luma input, but it would have to be before the termination resistor. Otherwise it won't function properly as a voltage divider.
I tried experimenting with that, IIRC somewhere from 30 to 50 ohms worked to bring the brightness down to a similar level as composite. I didn't try it with a variety of sources, though. That won't help with the chroma level - you'll still have to adjust color saturation when switching inputs.
There are two potential ways that this could be dealt with properly. Stripping the sync pulses from the luma signal so it's clamped at the right level, or intercepting the I2C bus to force the chip into using the internal Y signal. Both of those should be possible, but it takes it out of the realm of a simple mod.
matt wrote: ↑Tue Apr 30, 2024 7:27 pm
There are two potential ways that this could be dealt with properly. Stripping the sync pulses from the luma signal so it's clamped at the right level, or intercepting the I2C bus to force the chip into using the internal Y signal. Both of those should be possible, but it takes it out of the realm of a simple mod.
That is definitely outside my skillset lol. I'll have to check tonight if the TV has a saveable "user" color profile, I can't remember if it does. If it's as simple as switching back and forth between standard and another profile then that's not too bad and I'll probably avoid further messing about.
Finished the mod. Decided to just use settings to deal with excessive brightness and saturation issues for now. Can switch between picture modes easy enough.
I also wired in a toggle to the “velocity modulation out” line from the A board so that I can turn velocity modulation on and off, works great. https://imgur.com/gallery/evmLZDw
KPackratt2k wrote: ↑Sat Mar 19, 2022 5:29 am
The mod has been successful, as I've already mentioned in the RGB modding thread for those who have been following it. I'm also posting about it on this thread as suggested by its OP so that people who are more familiar with this one will also know about it.
I have modded a Sony KV-27V20 (AA-2 chassis) to support both RGB and Component YPbPr via two different sets of color-coded RCA input jacks. I'm using a 3P3T slide switch to toggle between inputs. For RGB, I've performed the OSD mux mod documented by MarkOZLAD in the RGB mod thread. I did the Component mod using information from this thread and the service manual. The YUV input on the PIP header (unused in the model) was grounded by two jumper resistors (JR351 and JR352) and a capacitor (C375) which needed to be removed. R358, R359, and R360 had to be populated with 220 ohm resistors to serve as the inline resistors for the Component input. C360, C361, and C362 had to be populated with 0.47 uF capacitors as suggested by the service manual. The Luma (Y) had to be split into both the PIP header and the S-Video Luma line to sync. As suggested by an AA-2D RGB mod done by Osirus, I've wired the switch to ground R233 to force the S-Video input in YPbPr mode.
Did you have excessive brightness that had to be adjusted with settings, or did the 220ohm resistors eliminate this?
matt wrote: ↑Mon Apr 29, 2024 9:12 pm
Yes, you'll definitely want to remove that. You don't want any decoupling capacitors on the luma signal - it could very well be responsible for your problem!
That worked! Thanks!
It is very bright now though (I expected that based on this thread). Has anyone tried putting resistors inline to address that? Looking at the board (on the AA-2D at least), it originally would have had resistors on the component lines from the PIP circuit. I might give it a go. I'd like to not have to change brightness when switching back and forth from S-Video.
Bro Thank you for this, as stated above I completed the same AA-2D Mod and I lost probably half my brightness dark, I had to blast the sub brightness to 50 and crank the picture to almost 100 which makes it plenty bright but also the image gets blown out. When I get some time ill remove C375 as well and see if it improves my brightness issue.
Did you bridge where C375 was or did you just leave it be?
(also my pictures generally suck but if you need any of them feel free to steal them for your guide)
vol.2 wrote: ↑Wed May 01, 2024 10:46 pm
Wondering if people here are doing the component mod in preference to an RGB mod, or only to sets that can't be RGB modded in general?
Multiple reasons I did this mod over RGB
1. My entire setup is Component so doing this means I don't need any transcoders
2. When I saw the write up for this mod the fact that the service menu and user menu do not require Mux mod means its easier overall. (RGB mods require you to switch on and off or MUX to use menus)
3. The info Matt and other provided shows this mod is super easy.
4. Mod naturally bypasses VM sharpening.
