TV RGB mod thread

[KPackratt2k]

Thank you so much! Going to try this out soon. I have a sunthar rgb mux board I’d like to try to use with it with this set.

As an aside, I have the opportunity to pick up a crt rear projection tv and was wondering if it would be possible to mod? It’s a Sony KP-53V45. I can’t find much of a service manual but it uses a RA-2 chassis.

Check to see what jungle chip it uses, I recall there being a mention of a Sony projection TV with a CXA1477AS (the same jungle chip found in the KV-27XBR45 that I've modded), which has a separate set of Analog RGB inputs which you can tap into without messing with the OSD. Typically, the Analog RGB input of the chip is used for closed captioning, so by isolating it from the closed captioning decoder, you can inject your RGB into these pins with a 0.1uF inline capacitor for each color signal.

Make sure the TV isn't one of those HD projection sets, as those suffer from input lag and digital processing. Typically, the HD sets will have a DVI or HDMI input, and are usually widescreen rather than 4:3.

[incrediblehark]

It is definitely a standard definition tv, has composite and s video only. I was able to find a service manual for a different model that used the same RA-2 chassis:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O4BEu9 ... p=drivesdk

Some of the text is hard to read but I think I saw a CXA2025AS

[Ballmerzpeak]

Aloha first time post, but hoping someone here can help me out. Did a CRT for a NEO GEO MVS, picture turned out pretty solid but there’s some “cropping” in the edges. Especially lower left corner. Any idea what could cause this ? It’s on a Sony trinitron, sync is using a 1k resistor and hooked up to a pin on the back for a video. I get the same issue when hooking up to composite. TV is fine on the other sources

[KPackratt2k]

Some of the text is hard to read but I think I saw a CXA2025AS

That's the same jungle chip used in the AA-2 chassis Sony CRT TVs, so I believe it can be modded via OSD Mux.

Aloha first time post, but hoping someone here can help me out. Did a CRT for a NEO GEO MVS, picture turned out pretty solid but there’s some “cropping” in the edges. Especially lower left corner. Any idea what could cause this ? It’s on a Sony trinitron, sync is using a 1k resistor and hooked up to a pin on the back for a video. I get the same issue when hooking up to composite. TV is fine on the other sources

Can you adjust the horizontal and vertical size in the service menu?

[Ballmerzpeak]

I can, it “hides” it better but the issue is more like it’s slightly trapezoid. Smaller on the left lower corner

https://imgur.com/a/55VrnRU

And some warping. There’s also some noise on the top if I lower the size and show more of the edges

[brubsd]

I'm trying to do a component mod for a CRT tv that has no schematics but uses jungle chip cxa2025as. The Data sheet says eyin ryin and byin are clamped to the burst timing of the signal input to the sync input pin (Pin 44) Hsync. Does this mean that the chip grabs sync from the y signal and I don't need to use the s input

https://imgur.com/a/CrJuD17

[rejhogan]

Oh, in that case your best bet would be to probe the components running in the RGB/Blanking lines between the jungle chip and the microcontroller. Use a multimeter to probe your resistor values. Once you've figured out where everything is and how the circuit is wired, write a schematic and determine what modifications you need to make for an OSD mux mod. This jungle chip expects a 1.0vp-p signal, so you'll have to use 180 ohm termination resistors.

So I was looking at my crt again and the only resistor in line seems to be the black smd ones 331. So 330ohms right? But while I was looking at the crt mods from the links you posted earlier and it seems that I don't have any resistors that are link to ground in line with the rgb lines like those mods. (RR523 527 and 526) I was wondering do I put my rbg lines on thoses empty pads and remove the black smds? Or add lines to the black smd pads? Thanks. [https://imgur.com/a/9kiBW4a]

[mccutheon]

8 months ago, I somewhat successfully OSD muxed RGB modded a sony Trinitron kv-20m40 by adding a VGA port with internal sync combiner, for use with GroovyArcade / linux.

I think I am going to take a crack at my second attempt at RGB modding, this time a sony trinitron KV-27v15, which is an AA-1 chassis, and I believe it will closely follow this guide from Sunthar, which uses the closed captioning decoder, so slightly different from the standard OSD mux :

https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... -aa-1.html


Same plan I think, adding a VGA port with internal sync combiner. This time I am going to do something slightly different and attempt to copy something neat that I saw in this reddit post

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... component/

Basically, this user noted that certain pins send out about 5V when a particular input is chosen, and this remains on while the input is selected. They piped this voltage through to their blanking signal line, so now when you select this particular input via remote or input button, it automatically turns on blanking. Some have called this 'switchless' blanking. It theoretically means sacrificing one of your video inputs as well.

I've put together a basic diagram of how I think the VGA port needs to be wired. Note that the RGB signals no longer have resisters inline (though they still have the 75 ohm resistors to ground), and instead have 0.1 uF caps.

Spoiler

--

Here is a screenshot from the manual, showing these 'blanking' signals, similar to what the user relied on in that reddit post. You can see the table that denotes which pin sends out voltage, and I intend to use video3, which is the composite input, which looks like pin 8 labelled "0-V2". This will still leave me with an S-video/composite input which I think is considered video1/video2.

He measured 6.1V out of his, and added a 2.1k resistor to bring it down to 5v and then fed that into his blanking signal. I am not sure what the voltage is coming out of my pins, and I'm hoping to confirm soon. I think I can tap into this pin 8, and then use that as my blanking voltage, and then follow Sunthar's guide for blanking voltage into lifted resistor R165.

Spoiler

Here is another screenshot from the manual, ignore the bluriness as this is just give a bit of an idea. The yellow lines denote the spots of interest. Pin 13 on the micom looks like "0-CCDON" which I presume turns on the CCD chip. This feeds down to pin 1 of the CCD chip "ON/OFF". I belive that turns on pin 3 on the CCD chip, "BOX". In Sunthar's post, he removed the first resistor out of the BOX line, R165, and then fed his blanking voltage into here, which then follows up to the Chroma chip into pin 15, YS.

Spoiler

For my sync signal, I think I need to hook into the video3 composite video signal line somewhere around the yellow line here (note that I think there is a spelling mistake in the manual, as it lists both inputs as video1. I believe the bottom input should be labelled video3 :

Spoiler

I'll be working on this over the next little bit and will post back some updates when I have them.

[maffatil]

So I just have some general questions about mux modding that I can’t seem to find a definitive answer anywhere.

A lot of later (90’s-2000’s) budget TV’s that are RF only aren’t isolated like regular TV’s of the time were. I know they aren’t hot chassis in the same sense as ~1990ish and earlier TVs, but they are still live when powered on and often say so right on the PCB itself.

I have seen conflicting accounts on the mod-ability of these sets-- some say no some say yes, but I want to know, which one is it? Obviously, a live chassis should not be worked on while powered on and without discharging the anode, but can it be safely modded at all? And if they shouldn’t be, why not? I understand the dangers taking “shortcuts” of doing work on a live TV, but I just want to know if that is the reason why those live RF only sets shouldn’t be modded, if its some other reason, or that they ok to mod as long as one takes all the right precautions.

[KPackratt2k]

The RF-only sets I've worked on (three RCA and one Daewoo) had isolation transformers inside since they shared the same chassis as higher-end models that had AV inputs, and at that point, the manufacturers of those sets didn't see a point in only isolating the AV inputs since it was easier and cheaper to isolate the entire chassis instead. In fact, on the three RCA TVs, the only differences between the RF-only models and the AV models were the lack of AV input jacks and the EEPROM configuration.

That said, it's possible that there were budget chassis from other manufacturers that didn't bother isolating the chassis during that era. The easiest way to tell if it's a hot chassis is if it has a small transformer block between the tuner and the RF jack (and for sets that have a headphone jack: a transformer that comes before the headphone jack). You should also check for continuity between the neutral blade of the power connector and a ground on the set (such as a heatsink or the tuner shield).

If you are modding a hot chassis TV, you should connect it to an isolation transformer. If you don't, you could cause a ground fault if your house isn't wired properly as some houses have the neutral and live wires reversed in their wiring. You could also get shocked if you touch something grounded to the chassis.

[maffatil]

The RF-only sets I've worked on (three RCA and one Daewoo) had isolation transformers inside since they shared the same chassis as higher-end models that had AV inputs, and at that point, the manufacturers of those sets didn't see a point in only isolating the AV inputs since it was easier and cheaper to isolate the entire chassis instead. In fact, on the three RCA TVs, the only differences between the RF-only models and the AV models were the lack of AV input jacks and the EEPROM configuration.

That said, it's possible that there were budget chassis from other manufacturers that didn't bother isolating the chassis during that era. The easiest way to tell if it's a hot chassis is if it has a small transformer block between the tuner and the RF jack (and for sets that have a headphone jack: a transformer that comes before the headphone jack). You should also check for continuity between the neutral blade of the power connector and a ground on the set (such as a heatsink or the tuner shield).

If you are modding a hot chassis TV, you should connect it to an isolation transformer. If you don't, you could cause a ground fault if your house isn't wired properly as some houses have the neutral and live wires reversed in their wiring. You could also get shocked if you touch something grounded to the chassis.

I’m completely playing the devil’s advocate here, but wouldn’t one not need to use an isolation transformer if the set is unplugged, properly discharged, and never turned on without the plastic casing on? Or are you saying that when using a modded hot/live/whatever TV one must use an isolation transformer?

Also I’ve seen some information about voltage leaks on sets like this and that’s supposed to be the reason why they shouldn’t be modded, so what about that? If so, how do voltage leaks happen and can they be prevented by proper work or are they simply unavoidable?

I’m just trying to gather some information so that people like me who have a good grasp of what they’re doing understand the “why’s” of how this stuff is done. It can be hard to find solid reasons for doing/not doing stuff like modding a hot chassis TV or soldering directly to the neck board. Often if someone is not too knowledgeable in an area they will not listen to the people who know faaaaar more about the area simply because the “why” they shouldn’t do something isn’t obvious to a newcomer. The amount of people in this thread alone asking “can I do xyz (like myself lol)” is proof of that.”

[maxtherabbit]

The RF-only sets I've worked on (three RCA and one Daewoo) had isolation transformers inside since they shared the same chassis as higher-end models that had AV inputs, and at that point, the manufacturers of those sets didn't see a point in only isolating the AV inputs since it was easier and cheaper to isolate the entire chassis instead. In fact, on the three RCA TVs, the only differences between the RF-only models and the AV models were the lack of AV input jacks and the EEPROM configuration.

That said, it's possible that there were budget chassis from other manufacturers that didn't bother isolating the chassis during that era. The easiest way to tell if it's a hot chassis is if it has a small transformer block between the tuner and the RF jack (and for sets that have a headphone jack: a transformer that comes before the headphone jack). You should also check for continuity between the neutral blade of the power connector and a ground on the set (such as a heatsink or the tuner shield).

If you are modding a hot chassis TV, you should connect it to an isolation transformer. If you don't, you could cause a ground fault if your house isn't wired properly as some houses have the neutral and live wires reversed in their wiring. You could also get shocked if you touch something grounded to the chassis.

I’m completely playing the devil’s advocate here, but wouldn’t one not need to use an isolation transformer if the set is unplugged, properly discharged, and never turned on without the plastic casing on? Or are you saying that when using a modded hot/live/whatever TV one must use an isolation transformer?

Also I’ve seen some information about voltage leaks on sets like this and that’s supposed to be the reason why they shouldn’t be modded, so what about that? If so, how do voltage leaks happen and can they be prevented by proper work or are they simply unavoidable?

I’m just trying to gather some information so that people like me who have a good grasp of what they’re doing understand the “why’s” of how this stuff is done. It can be hard to find solid reasons for doing/not doing stuff like modding a hot chassis TV or soldering directly to the neck board. Often if someone is not too knowledgeable in an area they will not listen to the people who know faaaaar more about the area simply because the “why” they shouldn’t do something isn’t obvious to a newcomer. The amount of people in this thread alone asking “can I do xyz (like myself lol)” is proof of that.”

Once you've modded it, the ground of the AV input connectors is now also connected to the mains. So yes you'd need to use an isolation transformer regardless of whether the case is on

[YutYut96]

Hello everyone,

Was wondering if someone can take a look and let me know if I’m on the right track. I picked up a Toshiba Cinema Series CN36G95 CRT this week and found a service manual that I’m using to try to add RGB. The jungle chip is a Toshiba TA1252AN chip. I found a datasheet for the chip TA1252AN datasheet (datasheetspdf.com), which I didn’t find particularly helpful. Looking at the service manual, I believe I could RGB mod this TV by injecting my signal into pins 8, 9 and 10, and using pin 11 for blanking.

Looks like I would need to remove the 2.2K Ohm grounding resistors and use 300 Ohm inline resistors to ‘mux’ the signal and allow me to use OSD functions while in RGB mode. I would also need to add my 75 Ohm resistors terminated to ground and 0.1 microfarad caps to the RGB lines.
https://imgur.com/YUO4Awn


Questions

Do I need to remove the 4.7K Ohm grounding resistor on the blanking line? If so, does it need to be replaced with another one of a different value?
Is there anything else I’m missing/overlooking?

Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.

[tongshadow]

Hello everyone,

Was wondering if someone can take a look and let me know if I’m on the right track. I picked up a Toshiba Cinema Series CN36G95 CRT this week and found a service manual that I’m using to try to add RGB. The jungle chip is a Toshiba TA1252AN chip. I found a datasheet for the chip TA1252AN datasheet (datasheetspdf.com), which I didn’t find particularly helpful. Looking at the service manual, I believe I could RGB mod this TV by injecting my signal into pins 8, 9 and 10, and using pin 11 for blanking.

Looks like I would need to remove the 2.2K Ohm grounding resistors and use 300 Ohm inline resistors to ‘mux’ the signal and allow me to use OSD functions while in RGB mode. I would also need to add my 75 Ohm resistors terminated to ground and 0.1 microfarad caps to the RGB lines.
https://imgur.com/YUO4Awn


Questions

Do I need to remove the 4.7K Ohm grounding resistor on the blanking line? If so, does it need to be replaced with another one of a different value?
Is there anything else I’m missing/overlooking?

Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.

No need to mess with the blanking line, just make sure you inject the correct voltage or else you'll get a black screen.

That's pretty much it, RGB modding really is that simple. Hardest part is figuring out the best way to wire everything and drill holes.

[YutYut96]

Hello everyone,

Was wondering if someone can take a look and let me know if I’m on the right track. I picked up a Toshiba Cinema Series CN36G95 CRT this week and found a service manual that I’m using to try to add RGB. The jungle chip is a Toshiba TA1252AN chip. I found a datasheet for the chip TA1252AN datasheet (datasheetspdf.com), which I didn’t find particularly helpful. Looking at the service manual, I believe I could RGB mod this TV by injecting my signal into pins 8, 9 and 10, and using pin 11 for blanking.

Looks like I would need to remove the 2.2K Ohm grounding resistors and use 300 Ohm inline resistors to ‘mux’ the signal and allow me to use OSD functions while in RGB mode. I would also need to add my 75 Ohm resistors terminated to ground and 0.1 microfarad caps to the RGB lines.
https://imgur.com/YUO4Awn


Questions

Do I need to remove the 4.7K Ohm grounding resistor on the blanking line? If so, does it need to be replaced with another one of a different value?
Is there anything else I’m missing/overlooking?

Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.

No need to mess with the blanking line, just make sure you inject the correct voltage or else you'll get a black screen.

That's pretty much it, RGB modding really is that simple. Hardest part is figuring out the best way to wire everything and drill holes.

Thanks for your help. I did have another question: Are the RGB lines added upstream or downstream of the stock resistors or somewhere else?

[tongshadow]

Hello everyone,

Was wondering if someone can take a look and let me know if I’m on the right track. I picked up a Toshiba Cinema Series CN36G95 CRT this week and found a service manual that I’m using to try to add RGB. The jungle chip is a Toshiba TA1252AN chip. I found a datasheet for the chip TA1252AN datasheet (datasheetspdf.com), which I didn’t find particularly helpful. Looking at the service manual, I believe I could RGB mod this TV by injecting my signal into pins 8, 9 and 10, and using pin 11 for blanking.

Looks like I would need to remove the 2.2K Ohm grounding resistors and use 300 Ohm inline resistors to ‘mux’ the signal and allow me to use OSD functions while in RGB mode. I would also need to add my 75 Ohm resistors terminated to ground and 0.1 microfarad caps to the RGB lines.
https://imgur.com/YUO4Awn


Questions

Do I need to remove the 4.7K Ohm grounding resistor on the blanking line? If so, does it need to be replaced with another one of a different value?
Is there anything else I’m missing/overlooking?

Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.

No need to mess with the blanking line, just make sure you inject the correct voltage or else you'll get a black screen.

That's pretty much it, RGB modding really is that simple. Hardest part is figuring out the best way to wire everything and drill holes.

Thanks for your help. I did have another question: Are the RGB lines added upstream or downstream of the stock resistors or somewhere else?

Inject just before the 330R resistors, on the side of the OSD RGB line. I would recommend adding diodes for proper mux, in this case, your in-line RGB should be at the cathode. For this, I would:
-Remove all 3 330 resistors and replace them with 1N4148 diodes
-Remove the 3 1800 resistor and replace them with the 330 Resistor+0.1uF Capacitor

[mccutheon]

Still chugging away on my sony trinitron KV-27v15 RGB mod. I got myself in over my head regarding the auto switching inputs, and instead I am just trying to replicate Sunthar's CCD mod for a similar AA-1 chassis.

I think I am most of the way there, RGB color mods and switched blanking seem to be working, but I am having issues with sync, as well as the input name not disappearing.

Spoiler

- I built my passive sync combiner circuit like I did on my previous mod, and have it hooked up to the Y pin of s-video, but I am getting what looks like a rolling image. I presume I must have something wrong my with sync circuit, but I made another one on a breadboard and it appeared to do the same thing (though perhaps I did make the same mistake twice and I just can't notice it. I am going to make one from scratch again and re-test). I also have an S-video cable that I have tried plugging in and out of the port to flip the select pin, but that didn't seem to change anything.

- I also noticed that the input names do not disappear, so if i left my tv on and running, it would just say s-video in the corner until I turned it off.

Any suggestions for either of these issues?

[mccutheon]

alright, figured it out and it was just totally clueless mistakes on my part. I'll have to triple check things next time, slow and steady.

Had the sync wire on the luma pin going to the wrong side of the resistor so it was going straight into ground. Swapped it to the other side, and inserted the dummy s video plug, and it started up properly.

In terms of the issue with the input name not disappearing, this was perhaps corrected when I fixed the sync ground issue, as I was able to press the display button on the remote to get it to disappear, where as before this wouldn't remove it from the screen.

Got sunset riders running on it now via groovyarcade, and it looks sweet. just got to mount the port and get things back together.

[mccutheon]

Wanted to drop another note in here regarding the H/V sync combining.

I came across this RGB mod

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... a_and_rgb/

where the person adds a VGA port to their tv for RGB. For their sync combiner, instead of the commonly mentioned circuit over on retroRGB, they instead just put a 1k resistor inline each on the H sync, and V sync line, and then combine that together, and attach to your syncing pin. They say they have done this for every VGA mod and it has never been a problem.

I may try this next time, as it is much simpler compared to the passive sync combiner as there are only 2 resistors, instead of the usual 4, + transistor + ground connection. Good to know in case anyone wanted to take a crack at it.

[maffatil]

Once you've modded it, the ground of the AV input connectors is now also connected to the mains. So yes you'd need to use an isolation transformer regardless of whether the case is on

Ok that makes sense. The reason why is because there is potentially high voltage that could leak into to the shared ground at any point?

[retrogamer47658]

Back again! Just wanted to follow up on that Panasonic CT-20G14A I never could quite figure out (until now). See my original post here: viewtopic.php?p=1529228#p1529228

I left off with the excessive brightness issue, which I initially thought was tied to no termination/capacitors. Turns out, though I really should have realized this earlier, the DC offset amp also partially functions as a brightness control; this means that using the potentiometer tied to ground in the circuit, I was able to just fiddle with the resistance values until the picture looked how it should. In the end, I used an 1000 ohm resistor for R1 and an 800 ohm resistor (technically the pot) for R2 in the voltage divider. This results in an additional ~2.2v being injected into the RGB lines, which has given me a much better picture since. Hoping this could be useful for anyone looking to mod these sets in the future!

[SuperSpongo]

Good info, thanks

[titan91]

Anyone here have any experience with RCA TruFlat sets? Mine is a 20F510TD from 2005 with composite and s-video. I would like to look into doing an RGB mux or component mod by repurposing the RCA ports for video 2 that are on the right side of the TV. I found this Reddit post mentioning the 20F514TD from 2007 has component inputs. So I wonder if the chassis board or at least the video jungle IC is the same.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... _20f514td/

Also this guy was able to, supposedly, do an s-video mod on his component 14F516T. Assuming he wired it correctly. He claims there was an unstuffed position on the chassis board for an s-video port. Can't find a manual for this one but I'm guessing either 2005 or 2006.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... nd_custom/

Here's another TV with just 1 number different in the model number, same year, same input jacks as mine.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... djustment/

Unfortunately, TTE/TCL seems to have rolled their own jungle video processor chip and I can't find a data sheet anywhere on it. The part number is TCL-A28V02-TO.

That being said, his has an aux board which may connect the video 2 inputs jacks. May be possible to do something with that?

[Icelvlan]

Has there ever been a type of universal board made? I remember there was a few being worked on before.

[KPackratt2k]

Has there ever been a type of universal board made? I remember there was a few being worked on before.

There's Suthar's Mux Board for those who wish to use SCART, I use it on every TV I mod for my friends who ask for SCART when they want their CRTs RGB modded:
https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... b-mux.html

I plan on working on similar boards for RCA and DE-15 connectors.

[YutYut96]

Hello everyone,

Wanted to thank tongshadow for pointing me in the right direction on this project. Here's my RGB mod diagram that I want to share to ask the experts of this forum if it makes sense:



Also did have a question about the blanking line. Since I'm using a SCART connector, the 5V signal will be provided by the input device through pin 16. My question is, where do I solder the wire on the board in the diagram below? I'm guessing in between RA49 and RR93:



FYI: Diode DA43 does not exist on the board itself. It's just a jumper wire.

[titan91]

Anyone here have any experience with RCA TruFlat sets? Mine is a 20F510TD from 2005 with composite and s-video. I would like to look into doing an RGB mux or component mod by repurposing the RCA ports for video 2 that are on the right side of the TV. I found this Reddit post mentioning the 20F514TD from 2007 has component inputs. So I wonder if the chassis board or at least the video jungle IC is the same.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... _20f514td/

Also this guy was able to, supposedly, do an s-video mod on his component 14F516T. Assuming he wired it correctly. He claims there was an unstuffed position on the chassis board for an s-video port. Can't find a manual for this one but I'm guessing either 2005 or 2006.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... nd_custom/

Here's another TV with just 1 number different in the model number, same year, same input jacks as mine.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... djustment/

Unfortunately, TTE/TCL seems to have rolled their own jungle video processor chip and I can't find a data sheet anywhere on it. The part number is TCL-A28V02-TO.

That being said, his has an aux board which may connect the video 2 inputs jacks. May be possible to do something with that?

Aha! Thanks to ErasableInk on Reddit we now have a TruFlat service manual. It's for the 20F511T. I put it up on Archive.org.

https://archive.org/details/rca-20f511t ... ice-manual

[YutYut96]

I'm having trouble with my RGB mod posted above (Toshiba CN36G95). Once I made the SCART harness, connected everything together and turned the TV on, the TV's OSD looked strange; the letters on the display were 'streaking' across the screen. Then, when I turned on my console, the screen shut off after about 1 second. I rechecked everything then I placed the blanking line on a switch but it did the same thing when I switched it on. Not sure what I did wrong. Any help is appreciated.

R --->75 ohm to ground ---> 1N1418 diode (cathode side) ---> 330 Ohm resistor ---> 0.1 microfarad cap ---> Jungle
G --->75 ohm to ground ---> 1N1418 diode (cathode side) ---> 330 Ohm resistor ---> 0.1 microfarad cap ---> Jungle
B --->75 ohm to ground ---> 1N1418 diode (cathode side) ---> 330 Ohm resistor ---> 0.1 microfarad cap ---> Jungle

Blanking is on a switch. Removed one leg from RA49 and ran a wire from that leg to the switch. Soldered a wire on the board where the leg was soldered into and ran that to the switch. Ran 5V from Pin 5 on voltage regulator to the switch.

[KPackratt2k]

I had a similar issue when I first RGB modded an RCA TV with a TA1268N jungle chip, turned out the chip expected a 1vp-p level signal. I was able to fix it by using 180 ohm termination resistors instead of 75 ohm. I also heard that 220 ohm resistors would work for those chips. Perhaps try that to see if it fixes it?

[tongshadow]

Then, when I turned on my console, the screen shut off after about 1 second.

How does the OSD look when the console is on? Is it completely gone too? Could you at least see a glimpse of the RGB picture? With the switch, are you able to use composite video normally?