SNES PSU
SNES PSU
Hey all,
I have a question about using a SNES with a RAD2x + FXPAK PRO + 8bitdo wireless receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1T9CZS/?c ... _lig_dp_it
I am concerned about pulling too much power from my console and damaging something. I am by no means an electrical engineer and was wondering what everyones thought was on this? Would it be better for the console if I used this adapter? https://castlemaniagames.com/collection ... es-con-kit
I dont want to put too much stress on the SNES. My console is fully capped.
I have a question about using a SNES with a RAD2x + FXPAK PRO + 8bitdo wireless receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1T9CZS/?c ... _lig_dp_it
I am concerned about pulling too much power from my console and damaging something. I am by no means an electrical engineer and was wondering what everyones thought was on this? Would it be better for the console if I used this adapter? https://castlemaniagames.com/collection ... es-con-kit
I dont want to put too much stress on the SNES. My console is fully capped.
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thegreathopper
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 6:15 pm
- Location: London England
Re: SNES PSU
You don’t need to worry and that linked power supply is no better than the original, I would save your money for a CRT and a scart lead.
Fight war not wars
Re: SNES PSU
I have crt with HD Retrovision. The rad2x is for when I bring it over to my friend's place.
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NewSchoolBoxer
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: SNES PSU
Let me be a lil scientific. There probably is a tower of power that can be constructed that pulls more than rated max 1A through the SNES voltage regulator or rated max 17W or more than 850mA through the official power supply. Power supplies don't last forever, my NES one is about to split open. Can get more noisy over years. I really, really don't think your setup will hit that but if you play around with PSUs enough, I recommend a portable meter. I bought $18 Poniee PN1500 that plugs into outlet then you plug console into that and it reads out the (rms) voltage, current and power that is drawn. Can prove electronics turned off but plugged in draw a small amount of power.
I recommend buying a backup PSU as a precaution since they're cheap and plentiful. If console doesn't turn on, is the easiest thing to check for. I bought one for $10 at retro gaming store that has plug for Genesis/Mega Drive too. Ideally it handles at least 850mA of current but you could get away with less with the meter to check.
Castlemania sells you the Triad PSU at significant markup but they include the proprietary US SNES barrel plug so it's okay. I don't know how its ripple noise compares but it has higher 1.3A current limit that is unnecessary but totally fine. Outputs 9V versus official PSU 10V, which again, is fine since SNES voltage regulator needs at least 7V. This is actually better because less heat is generated on the console. May not make a difference in video quality or noise but you're stressing an antique machine less. Says it's limited to 12W but you'd hit a current limit first.
My best effort for exceeding the current limit would probably entail the NakiTek Game Saver+ that can run off console power or 6x AA batteries. Not compatible with Game Genie or Super Game Boy but stack on multiout + 4x wireless receivers + RAD2x and display white screen with audio while simultaneously drawing RGB->HDMI to capture card, S-Video to one display and Composite to another and you might get there! I like how SNES and PS2 will output all their multiout pins at once.
I recommend buying a backup PSU as a precaution since they're cheap and plentiful. If console doesn't turn on, is the easiest thing to check for. I bought one for $10 at retro gaming store that has plug for Genesis/Mega Drive too. Ideally it handles at least 850mA of current but you could get away with less with the meter to check.
Castlemania sells you the Triad PSU at significant markup but they include the proprietary US SNES barrel plug so it's okay. I don't know how its ripple noise compares but it has higher 1.3A current limit that is unnecessary but totally fine. Outputs 9V versus official PSU 10V, which again, is fine since SNES voltage regulator needs at least 7V. This is actually better because less heat is generated on the console. May not make a difference in video quality or noise but you're stressing an antique machine less. Says it's limited to 12W but you'd hit a current limit first.
My best effort for exceeding the current limit would probably entail the NakiTek Game Saver+ that can run off console power or 6x AA batteries. Not compatible with Game Genie or Super Game Boy but stack on multiout + 4x wireless receivers + RAD2x and display white screen with audio while simultaneously drawing RGB->HDMI to capture card, S-Video to one display and Composite to another and you might get there! I like how SNES and PS2 will output all their multiout pins at once.
Re: SNES PSU
Thank you very much. This helps tremendously.
Re: SNES PSU
I did replace my voltage regulator with L78S05CV with an 8 volt minimum in the hope it would be even less stress on the console. I'm all about preservation.
I ordered the triad psu off of castlemania on eBay which was significantly cheaper than their website for some reason.
I ordered the triad psu off of castlemania on eBay which was significantly cheaper than their website for some reason.
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NewSchoolBoxer
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: SNES PSU
Alright, progress. You'd stress it less for using a regulated power supply and a voltage regulator that isn't 25-30 years old. Feeding it 9V vs original 10V will generate less heat as well.
I finally did some power testing with the Poniee. Was kind of interesting. My 2CHIP SNES wouldn't turn on but 1CHIP SFC did. Super Bomberman 2 used 4.85-4.95W, Street Fighter II Turbo at 4.95-5.05W and Mega Man X first stage the highest at 5.00-5.05W. Each game on a brief loading screen or transitions used about 0.1W less. Lag frames didn't seem to affect the power. Meter only goes to 2 decimals on current, was 0.06A so probably 60mA +/- 5 and volts were at 100V from the step down transformer. Naturally at 122V.
The two big takeaways:
-Power indeed went up from Game Genie with the light on from codes, if any, being active. Mega Man X went up to 5.10-5.12W for a good 50mW increase and went back down when I turned the light switch off. Could hypothetically overpower the SNES from drawing too much current on the +5V but would take an awful lot when current didn't reach 70mA with Game Genie on and stock voltage regulator can handle 1A = 1000mA. More significant is greater heat / thermal stress than console design expects and maybe extending the +5V power draw from chips outside the console.
-Power measured did not change based on using Composite and S-Video at the same time or whether audio was plugged in or not. Nor did power seem to change when using RGB despite it requiring more bandwidth. I could be wrong since I didn't pop off the 7805 heat sink to measure, but I think all pins on the multiout are powered at all times. Not punished for using multiple video pins. The gold pins already form complete circuits and cables extent them.
I couldn't get the Game Saver+ to turn on. Hopefully isopropyl alcohol on contacts is enough. Super Game Boy worth checking too.
I finally did some power testing with the Poniee. Was kind of interesting. My 2CHIP SNES wouldn't turn on but 1CHIP SFC did. Super Bomberman 2 used 4.85-4.95W, Street Fighter II Turbo at 4.95-5.05W and Mega Man X first stage the highest at 5.00-5.05W. Each game on a brief loading screen or transitions used about 0.1W less. Lag frames didn't seem to affect the power. Meter only goes to 2 decimals on current, was 0.06A so probably 60mA +/- 5 and volts were at 100V from the step down transformer. Naturally at 122V.
The two big takeaways:
-Power indeed went up from Game Genie with the light on from codes, if any, being active. Mega Man X went up to 5.10-5.12W for a good 50mW increase and went back down when I turned the light switch off. Could hypothetically overpower the SNES from drawing too much current on the +5V but would take an awful lot when current didn't reach 70mA with Game Genie on and stock voltage regulator can handle 1A = 1000mA. More significant is greater heat / thermal stress than console design expects and maybe extending the +5V power draw from chips outside the console.
-Power measured did not change based on using Composite and S-Video at the same time or whether audio was plugged in or not. Nor did power seem to change when using RGB despite it requiring more bandwidth. I could be wrong since I didn't pop off the 7805 heat sink to measure, but I think all pins on the multiout are powered at all times. Not punished for using multiple video pins. The gold pins already form complete circuits and cables extent them.
I couldn't get the Game Saver+ to turn on. Hopefully isopropyl alcohol on contacts is enough. Super Game Boy worth checking too.
Re: SNES PSU
This is excellent information. Thank you.
I have made a few changes to my SNES setup in order to reduce power. I do not use a wireless adapter for my SNES controller any longer. I have modified an OEM controller with a 3 meter cable lol. I have sold my rad2x and use an externally powered retrotink 2x pro.
This being said I really need a poniee.
You have any recommendations for a regulated PSU?
I have made a few changes to my SNES setup in order to reduce power. I do not use a wireless adapter for my SNES controller any longer. I have modified an OEM controller with a 3 meter cable lol. I have sold my rad2x and use an externally powered retrotink 2x pro.
This being said I really need a poniee.
You have any recommendations for a regulated PSU?
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:22 am
Re: SNES PSU
you guys sure made me work for that one!
it's actually 'Poniie'
https://poniie.com/products/17
searching for a 240v, affordable equivalent now.
I wouldn't worry about these things drawing extra power. 7805 is a $2 component and later revisions are good for 1.5a.
If you were super concerned you can step up to different series of LDO and go 3/5a capable. These would need a hack installation though. Centre pin is active and that makes the heatsink a short circuit.
I noticed some 1 chip JR's for sale and the seller has installed 1000 mike main cap that 'nintendo left off'
made me laugh, that's a giant ass capacitor and if it was actually required, it would be there. Sure, console manufacturers skimp for profit (components in cables piss me off, but it is what it is) but a 1000uf cap? Christ.
it's actually 'Poniie'
https://poniie.com/products/17
searching for a 240v, affordable equivalent now.
I wouldn't worry about these things drawing extra power. 7805 is a $2 component and later revisions are good for 1.5a.
If you were super concerned you can step up to different series of LDO and go 3/5a capable. These would need a hack installation though. Centre pin is active and that makes the heatsink a short circuit.
I noticed some 1 chip JR's for sale and the seller has installed 1000 mike main cap that 'nintendo left off'
made me laugh, that's a giant ass capacitor and if it was actually required, it would be there. Sure, console manufacturers skimp for profit (components in cables piss me off, but it is what it is) but a 1000uf cap? Christ.
Re: SNES PSU
I replaced my 7805 with L78S05CV hoping to help out a little.VajSkids Consoles wrote:you guys sure made me work for that one!
it's actually 'Poniie'
https://poniie.com/products/17
searching for a 240v, affordable equivalent now.
I wouldn't worry about these things drawing extra power. 7805 is a $2 component and later revisions are good for 1.5a.
If you were super concerned you can step up to different series of LDO and go 3/5a capable. These would need a hack installation though. Centre pin is active and that makes the heatsink a short circuit.
I noticed some 1 chip JR's for sale and the seller has installed 1000 mike main cap that 'nintendo left off'
made me laugh, that's a giant ass capacitor and if it was actually required, it would be there. Sure, console manufacturers skimp for profit (components in cables piss me off, but it is what it is) but a 1000uf cap? Christ.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:22 am
Re: SNES PSU
yeah that's the one. I trialled one in a supply and it was good (Saturn) but I wanted extra headroom.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/mains-power-m ... y/p/MS6108
this sure beats using other test equipment to monitor power draw! though a lot of my consoles are JP and I don't always have a 240v supply for them. dammit.
edit: I guess a downside is it's only overall draw and not rail specific.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/mains-power-m ... y/p/MS6108
this sure beats using other test equipment to monitor power draw! though a lot of my consoles are JP and I don't always have a 240v supply for them. dammit.
edit: I guess a downside is it's only overall draw and not rail specific.
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NewSchoolBoxer
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: SNES PSU
Sorry long reply. Sure SNES can handle [(10-5)V*output current] power loss on a stock 7805 but that doesn't mean you should thermal stress an antique. I didn't notice LDOs having a different active pin, that's too bad. Some switching regulators like the OKI-78SR-5 come on a mini PCB to replace a 7805.
I think the most pro move is a lab bench power supply if you already have one. Takes some adapter chaining but in exchange you get voltage and load stability each at an incredible ≤0.1% + 1mV. Can feed 7.65V to a 7.50V min, 1.5A regulator no sweat. Ripple is at least 50mV less (rms) than any figure I found on a regular PSU datasheet. Overkill on a modern console but we're talking fragile SNES.
Part 2 of Power Testing
I found a negative pin switching PSU in my closet. I love the "unconventional polarity" warning label. Fit Super Famicom perfectly. Reducing the wasted power/heat inside the PSU isn't so important. Advantage is using a regulated PSU for stable output with electrolytic capacitors that aren't near end of life.
I got both Super Game Boy and Super Game Boy 2 to boot with exactly 1 GB game out of 5 - Harvest Moon. I didn't expect a Super FX chip to outpower the entire Game Boy hardware. Interesting that SGB2 drew a little more than SB1, I suppose to power its own clock to match actual Game Boy's and the link cable circuitry.
I really want to see what a flash cart pulls when powering an emulated Super FX or SA1 chip or entire Super Game Boy. Or those Chinese carts with the wrong voltage.
Externally powered transcoder sounds good to me! Would be nice to know the current the rad2x needs and if the amount fluctuates since that flux generates EMI.
Power meters are funny. I used for 2 days after I bought it then forgot I had until reading this thread. Seems PAL meter designs are cooler. I got the PN 1500 because I knew it could measure 100V Japanese signals. I'd recommend one that comes with a short extension cord. I had to buy a cord to measure my internet repeater since it covered the whole meter. Kill A Watt is the best known brand in US.
I'm not overly concerned with a PSU's brand but it's nice seeing comparatively small current specs on a datasheet. PS2 Thin's PSU I think is a relatively common 4.8x1.7mm barrel you can adapter chain. I tried 9V PSU [5.5x2.5mm] -> [positive to negative polarity adapter] -> [5.5x2.5mm to 5.5x2.1mm adapter] to SFC to prove chaining would work.
I think the most pro move is a lab bench power supply if you already have one. Takes some adapter chaining but in exchange you get voltage and load stability each at an incredible ≤0.1% + 1mV. Can feed 7.65V to a 7.50V min, 1.5A regulator no sweat. Ripple is at least 50mV less (rms) than any figure I found on a regular PSU datasheet. Overkill on a modern console but we're talking fragile SNES.
Part 2 of Power Testing
I found a negative pin switching PSU in my closet. I love the "unconventional polarity" warning label. Fit Super Famicom perfectly. Reducing the wasted power/heat inside the PSU isn't so important. Advantage is using a regulated PSU for stable output with electrolytic capacitors that aren't near end of life.
I got both Super Game Boy and Super Game Boy 2 to boot with exactly 1 GB game out of 5 - Harvest Moon. I didn't expect a Super FX chip to outpower the entire Game Boy hardware. Interesting that SGB2 drew a little more than SB1, I suppose to power its own clock to match actual Game Boy's and the link cable circuitry.
I really want to see what a flash cart pulls when powering an emulated Super FX or SA1 chip or entire Super Game Boy. Or those Chinese carts with the wrong voltage.
Wireless adapter for SNES...Mcbezel 8bitdo draws 100mA at 5V = 500mW, what the hell, that's crazy. At least it gives us the current. 8Bitdo SN30 model's 180mAh battery rated for 18 hours is just 10mA? Like I think that's totally fine.Lopenator wrote:This is excellent information. Thank you.
I have made a few changes to my SNES setup in order to reduce power. I do not use a wireless adapter for my SNES controller any longer. I have modified an OEM controller with a 3 meter cable lol. I have sold my rad2x and use an externally powered retrotink 2x pro.
This being said I really need a poniee.
You have any recommendations for a regulated PSU?
Externally powered transcoder sounds good to me! Would be nice to know the current the rad2x needs and if the amount fluctuates since that flux generates EMI.
Power meters are funny. I used for 2 days after I bought it then forgot I had until reading this thread. Seems PAL meter designs are cooler. I got the PN 1500 because I knew it could measure 100V Japanese signals. I'd recommend one that comes with a short extension cord. I had to buy a cord to measure my internet repeater since it covered the whole meter. Kill A Watt is the best known brand in US.
I'm not overly concerned with a PSU's brand but it's nice seeing comparatively small current specs on a datasheet. PS2 Thin's PSU I think is a relatively common 4.8x1.7mm barrel you can adapter chain. I tried 9V PSU [5.5x2.5mm] -> [positive to negative polarity adapter] -> [5.5x2.5mm to 5.5x2.1mm adapter] to SFC to prove chaining would work.
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NewSchoolBoxer
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: SNES PSU
Uh yeah, that wireless receiver takes 100mA too = 500mW. I would not use. Sorry I didn't notice sooner.Lopenator wrote:Hey all,
I have a question about using a SNES with a RAD2x + FXPAK PRO + 8bitdo wireless receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1T9CZS/?c ... _lig_dp_it
I am concerned about pulling too much power from my console and damaging something. I am by no means an electrical engineer and was wondering what everyones thought was on this? Would it be better for the console if I used this adapter? https://castlemaniagames.com/collection ... es-con-kit
I dont want to put too much stress on the SNES. My console is fully capped.
I got a more advanced multimeter with transistor β for C11 ordeal, true RMS for RGB square waves and temperature readings for science. First thing I do is measure the SFC's 7805 temperature. I see 28°C and then a spark and console shuts off and doesn't turn back on. Should have measured the heat sink but thems the breaks. Fuse continuity intact. I see it's not intact on my SNES so maybe that's an easy fix too.
I have power calcs planned. PSU current out = 7805 current in = 7805 current out, meaning I can take the safer step of using SFC's red and black leads to measure current versus having to lift 7805 pin 1 or 3. With the current known, only unknown is efficiency of PSU, which is easily solved.
Code: Select all
(Measured AC power on Poniie) * (efficiency of PSU at load) * (efficiency of voltage regulator ~5V/9V) = (5V * output current of regulator)
I realized I can use the above equation with measured power to band the output current. Switching PSU efficiencies are 70-90%, we know OEM Linear PSU's is less and 7805 regulator is fixed at 55%. I can set Linear PSU to any efficiency then solve for best match of SMPS efficiency in [70-90]% range since the output current of each must be the same to play same game. Can say a broader 275-450mA is likely the typical current drawn from SNES + accessories and console would not have been designed for consistent thermal stress over 5V*500mA=2.5W.
By antique Linear PSU being > 50% efficient at 9V out, it must be unregulated as we presumed and this is reason enough not to use it. Actually, the retro gaming store SNES+Genesis PSU I bought 2 years ago is more inefficient @ 6.61W to play Mega Man X. Meaning it is, in fact, linear regulated and therefore fine to use. Linear also apparent from the weight. Unregulated is just transformer + diodes + RLC. Any tightening of the output voltage range comes at a cost.
tl;dr These estimates band output current feeding SNES to 275-450mA for typical use. This means 1A 7805 is sufficient, 1.5A fine but no better. Adding 100mA for each wireless controller is a bad idea and current looping from one end of the console to the other. Original power supply for SNES is most likely* unregulated and should not be used.
Re: SNES PSU
Hey awesome write up. Extremely useful. How come a voltage regulator higher than 1.5 amp is not recommended? Wouldn't the console only pull what it needs?
Why would Nintendo make their official PSU no good for the console?
Why would Nintendo make their official PSU no good for the console?
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NewSchoolBoxer
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: SNES PSU
Thanks, feels good to figure out how to preserve fragile console better. You could swap in a 2A max regulator. Just 1A is good enough and a few cents cheaper. Looking at datasheets, the regulators tend to be optimized to run near max load. 1A at 500mA better than 2A at 500mA, although I seriously doubt the difference is measurable. Bigger impact from messing with the bypass capacitors or regulating the voltage source.
Why would Nintendo make official PSU no good? I wondered this until I found the 'Console Supply Power Bible'. Almost every 8 and 16 bit console used linear unregulated PSUs because they are the cheapest and reducing the console lifespan as a result was of no concern if it could still last until next the console generation. Switching PSUs existed but the technology was still evolving to increase their operating frequency in a small, affordable package that allows smaller (cheaper) inductor and capacitor.
That a regulated linear PSU could have still been used such as with 8 bit computers or the ColecoVision, well, consoles were sold at a loss. Let's save where we can. Even better, let's make NEGATIVE center pin PSUs that people can't easily find replacements for except from us! Let's output weird levels like 7.6/8.5/9.5/10VDC to confuse people who think the consoles need those exact values and make competitor PSUs cost more by preventing a relabeling of their existing 7.5/9VDC supplies!
I think laws came around to require minimum efficiency that squeezed linear regulators out of the marketplace and the wasted heat in later, more power-hungry consoles was a greater concern. PSU sits inside the PlayStation 1 and Saturn for reasons I can't understand but at least both appear complex enough to be regulated.
Here's the problem with an unregulated PSU. Transformer that takes in AC has a turns ratio. A ratio of 12:1 would convert 120VAC to 10VAC. The current goes up by a factor of 12 because of conservation of energy. Then lose 1V in diode drop and spit out 9VDC. Seems fine until your house has a 110V supply. Now you get (110/12) - 1 = 8.17VDC out and an 8V min 7805 is going to have trouble with that. My home gets 122V so 9.17VDC for me.
What's worse is the jumping around of the mains voltage supply by a perfectly legal ±5%. This, when unregulated to not have stable PSU output, makes the voltage and by extension the current fed into the 7805 linear regulator jump around. The flux, meaning the changing of voltage and current levels, creates electromagnetic interference and the changing current gets passed through as the output to power the console unevenly.
Thanks for letting me rant. Was a lot longer than I expected.
Why would Nintendo make official PSU no good? I wondered this until I found the 'Console Supply Power Bible'. Almost every 8 and 16 bit console used linear unregulated PSUs because they are the cheapest and reducing the console lifespan as a result was of no concern if it could still last until next the console generation. Switching PSUs existed but the technology was still evolving to increase their operating frequency in a small, affordable package that allows smaller (cheaper) inductor and capacitor.
That a regulated linear PSU could have still been used such as with 8 bit computers or the ColecoVision, well, consoles were sold at a loss. Let's save where we can. Even better, let's make NEGATIVE center pin PSUs that people can't easily find replacements for except from us! Let's output weird levels like 7.6/8.5/9.5/10VDC to confuse people who think the consoles need those exact values and make competitor PSUs cost more by preventing a relabeling of their existing 7.5/9VDC supplies!
I think laws came around to require minimum efficiency that squeezed linear regulators out of the marketplace and the wasted heat in later, more power-hungry consoles was a greater concern. PSU sits inside the PlayStation 1 and Saturn for reasons I can't understand but at least both appear complex enough to be regulated.
Here's the problem with an unregulated PSU. Transformer that takes in AC has a turns ratio. A ratio of 12:1 would convert 120VAC to 10VAC. The current goes up by a factor of 12 because of conservation of energy. Then lose 1V in diode drop and spit out 9VDC. Seems fine until your house has a 110V supply. Now you get (110/12) - 1 = 8.17VDC out and an 8V min 7805 is going to have trouble with that. My home gets 122V so 9.17VDC for me.
What's worse is the jumping around of the mains voltage supply by a perfectly legal ±5%. This, when unregulated to not have stable PSU output, makes the voltage and by extension the current fed into the 7805 linear regulator jump around. The flux, meaning the changing of voltage and current levels, creates electromagnetic interference and the changing current gets passed through as the output to power the console unevenly.
Thanks for letting me rant. Was a lot longer than I expected.
Re: SNES PSU
Thanks for helping me take care of my beloved SNES. My 1 chips thank you.
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Re: SNES PSU
NewSchoolBoxer, the Console Power Supply Bible link on your post is dead, leads to a 403 Forbidden error.
Re: SNES PSU
It works for me.KPackratt2k wrote:NewSchoolBoxer, the Console Power Supply Bible link on your post is dead, leads to a 403 Forbidden error.
https://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?tit ... pply_Bible
I guess the triad psu is no good because ultimately we want a linear regulated PSU.
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NewSchoolBoxer
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: SNES PSU
Maybe link is blocked in certain countries? Here is archive.org link from Jan 2022.Lopenator wrote:It works for me.KPackratt2k wrote:NewSchoolBoxer, the Console Power Supply Bible link on your post is dead, leads to a 403 Forbidden error.
https://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?tit ... pply_Bible
I guess the triad psu is no good because ultimately we want a linear regulated PSU.
Now that I think about it, a linear regulated PSU would be the best choice. Noise based around 100 or 120 Hz that any voltage regulator will filter and less noise than from switching PSU. At least for 8 or 16 bit console, using 6-8W versus 5W is irrelevant. Heat stays inside the block. Retro game shop may be the only place to find a negative center one like I did. Has barrels for both NTSC SNES and Genesis that also fits SFC. Just have to note the max current - mine is 680mA. I was hesitant to use until I did above measurements. Could blow with Tower of Power.
I'm fine with using modern switching PSU if I didn't have the linear regulated. The switching noise at 1-2 MHz is an issue for aging effect on electronics but I think being modern and regulated is more important. Maybe half the modern LDO regulator datasheets I've seen show good filtering at the low MHz range. The stock or modern 7805's do not filter MHz noise but could solder in new bypass capacitors to compensate.
I made this PSU comparison pic for fun. Sorry I gotta be ghetto and watermark it:
Re: SNES PSU
If I could buy you a beer I would.
It is my understanding that a lot of these low cost aftermarket psu's aren't made all equal. You can have 2 of the same PSU and it'll have different ratings. I could be wrong though. This is much more stressful than it should be.
It is my understanding that a lot of these low cost aftermarket psu's aren't made all equal. You can have 2 of the same PSU and it'll have different ratings. I could be wrong though. This is much more stressful than it should be.
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NewSchoolBoxer
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- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: SNES PSU
All good, SNES is my favorite console. I wouldn't have the patience for NES.
Yes, just from reading an hour of switching PSU datasheets, they have different idle power usage, inrush current when turned on, line and load regulation accuracy % and ripple Vrms. Is stressful because no one figuring this out until now? Someone want to take the template here and apply to another console, would be breezy.
Get this! If you read about negative center barrels, you'll find the only other use is for guitar pedals. Turns out it's easy to find a $9 negative center linear regulated (edit: seller said is switching, no longer sells linear version) PSU...ostensibly for guitar pedals on Amazon. $7.19 Prime Day Deal right now.
The 5.5x2.1mm fits Super Famicom, else need North American barrel adapter. Specified ripple less than 30mVrms that proves it's linear edit: switching ripple must be higher. Best I found on switching was 70mV for medical grade and Triad is 150mV.
Is a cheaper one at 850mA but...I'm hesitant to go cheapest way out. I see a 2.5mm one for $2.99 (lol) at 5.5x2.5mm size that will not fit SFC or SNES without adapter.
$4 polarity reversal barrel to turn negative center positive and I'll confirm it can turn positive center to negative. 1x2.1mm will fit the 5.5x2.1mm. I like the orange to stand out from my adapter kit for 5.5x2.5mm.
Speaking of Super Famicom, they go for $40 on US eBay vs $75-90 for US models. I love Japan.
Not referral links.
Yes, just from reading an hour of switching PSU datasheets, they have different idle power usage, inrush current when turned on, line and load regulation accuracy % and ripple Vrms. Is stressful because no one figuring this out until now? Someone want to take the template here and apply to another console, would be breezy.
Get this! If you read about negative center barrels, you'll find the only other use is for guitar pedals. Turns out it's easy to find a $9 negative center linear regulated (edit: seller said is switching, no longer sells linear version) PSU...ostensibly for guitar pedals on Amazon. $7.19 Prime Day Deal right now.
The 5.5x2.1mm fits Super Famicom, else need North American barrel adapter. Specified ripple less than 30mVrms that proves it's linear edit: switching ripple must be higher. Best I found on switching was 70mV for medical grade and Triad is 150mV.
Is a cheaper one at 850mA but...I'm hesitant to go cheapest way out. I see a 2.5mm one for $2.99 (lol) at 5.5x2.5mm size that will not fit SFC or SNES without adapter.
$4 polarity reversal barrel to turn negative center positive and I'll confirm it can turn positive center to negative. 1x2.1mm will fit the 5.5x2.1mm. I like the orange to stand out from my adapter kit for 5.5x2.5mm.
Speaking of Super Famicom, they go for $40 on US eBay vs $75-90 for US models. I love Japan.
Not referral links.
Last edited by NewSchoolBoxer on Wed Jul 13, 2022 4:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: SNES PSU
Isn't the one you mentioned still switching albeit certainly lower ripple than the Triad I already own. If I do want the use the one you mentioned I would need to buy a polarity invertor to make it center positive and then use the castlemania adapter to make it back to center negative and 7mm x 1mm.
maybe this one and I could use the castlemania barrel adapter I have already to make it 7mm x 1mm.
edit. I found this that I think can connect to a center negative
I think the PSU you linked from Amazon with the console5 adapter would be the way to go. That's probably what I'll go with.
maybe this one and I could use the castlemania barrel adapter I have already to make it 7mm x 1mm.
edit. I found this that I think can connect to a center negative
I think the PSU you linked from Amazon with the console5 adapter would be the way to go. That's probably what I'll go with.
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Re: SNES PSU
I personally use a genuine master system brick on SFC.
Would suit US SNES too.
They sell aftermarket, I think quality of supply is a little less important with linear supplies (linear regs) because the regs have in-built protection features and shutdowns.
We have AC supplies with a bridge rectifier for our PAL NES/SNES, so for those, NES suits SNES as well (PAL)
Would suit US SNES too.
They sell aftermarket, I think quality of supply is a little less important with linear supplies (linear regs) because the regs have in-built protection features and shutdowns.
We have AC supplies with a bridge rectifier for our PAL NES/SNES, so for those, NES suits SNES as well (PAL)
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Re: SNES PSU
What I used to do was use the guitar product for polarity switching and use a centre positive supply.
For master system at least, reverse polarity is protected in case of accidental plug in without the polarity switching section.
Then you could go an A grade centre positive supply.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38449391628 ... ctupt=true
Edit: if you're really brave, you can bust open the brick and switch the wires around, or hack the cable and switch them, then seal it with heatshrink.
For master system at least, reverse polarity is protected in case of accidental plug in without the polarity switching section.
Then you could go an A grade centre positive supply.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38449391628 ... ctupt=true
Edit: if you're really brave, you can bust open the brick and switch the wires around, or hack the cable and switch them, then seal it with heatshrink.
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NewSchoolBoxer
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Re: SNES PSU
Ahh Amazon seller responded and said they don't sell linear PSUs anymore. Cancelled that order but kept the polarity inverter. I went and messaged 5 other Amazon sellers if theirs is linear, as well as sales rep on Sweetwater lol. I'll edit above. Yes, 30mV ripple is so low I doubt it's the spec for a switching PSU when none I found on Mouser or DigiKey were below 70 even at $25. No linear PSUs for them either.Lopenator wrote:Isn't the one you mentioned still switching albeit certainly lower ripple than the Triad I already own. If I do want the use the one you mentioned I would need to buy a polarity invertor to make it center positive and then use the castlemania adapter to make it back to center negative and 7mm x 1mm.
maybe this one and I could use the castlemania barrel adapter I have already to make it 7mm x 1mm.
edit. I found this that I think can connect to a center negative
I think the PSU you linked from Amazon with the console5 adapter would be the way to go. That's probably what I'll go with.
Jameco definitely lists linear PSUs on their website. The datasheets in half Chinese don't mention anything helpful but would have less noise than switched so I suppose I don't really need to know anything? That one you linked is unusual in that it outputs 9V AC and not DC voltage. Would work for PAL SNES and any NES and would be good for those if regulated. You'd need a cheap 5.5x2.5 to 5.5x2.1 adapter for all but PAL NES. May as well buy a full adapter kit in that case. My adapter kit is 5.5x2.5mm. That and 2.1mm are the most common barrel sizes imo.
Console5's 5.5x2.1mm to 7.0x1.0mm adapter for NA SNES is what I'd buy. I couldn't find anyone else selling it last year. Not too surprising since Nintendo had to go and make a unique barrel size no one else in world uses. Other option is mod to replace the barrel receiver.
Hardcore solution still to buy a lab bench PSU for $100+ that come in linear form with incredible 1mV ripple but is waste if all you'd use it for is to power video game consoles. Adapter chaining would be convoluted. The retro game store PSU I bought last year is linear but 680mA limit is really pushing it. Not going to stockpile.
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Re: SNES PSU
I kid you not, the first thing i did this morning was look at bench supplies. I don't want to go near the cheap ones on Amazon. Element 14/ Farnell have the Multicomp Pro MP710503 but this would be switching. The only review I can find on that brand of bench supplies is a french guy with the linear version which is 3 times the price and apparently as heavy as a brick in comparison.
Anyway, without any measurements going back 2 years, I ran a Super Famicom off a 9v 500ma supply with an everdrive and played it for a while without issue
I had a bunch of these 9v 1a supplies purchased in bulk a couple years back. My master system pile had accumulated to about 20 model 2's (I was hunting a sonic BIOS, which i found about 30 buys in) and needed to offload them (AV Mod/ 50/50hz yada yada).
Mind you, I can't part with the model 1's, I have 6 and ones got Tim's audio mod in it.
I wanted every BIOS revision, but now I have a double up or 2
I only just got rid of all the genuine master system controllers, they sold quite quickly at 50 a pop!. One less bag of electronic clutter. It's pretty bad here. I was meant to send a modded PS1 off today, but can't find double sided tape or hot glue gun to mount my nano in the corner... So, will be modding that tonight. The modchip (written by me) is fussy with MCU's, i.e. works on 328P and not a 168P, and the only difference SHOULD be the amount of memory. Going to try an LGT8F328P *fingers crossed*. It works on other projects partially - bar the SPI stuff.
Just for lopenator, I found one of the supplies I was bundling with master systems, this ones polarity switching bit got finicky (internal break)
So, it's this easy to switch polarity:
https://imgur.com/gallery/gLBxhMq
Edit: A huge percentage of people in the world will scream "Fire hazard" and be on high alert with anything like this modification, but I assure you, it's safe.
Anyway, without any measurements going back 2 years, I ran a Super Famicom off a 9v 500ma supply with an everdrive and played it for a while without issue
I had a bunch of these 9v 1a supplies purchased in bulk a couple years back. My master system pile had accumulated to about 20 model 2's (I was hunting a sonic BIOS, which i found about 30 buys in) and needed to offload them (AV Mod/ 50/50hz yada yada).
Mind you, I can't part with the model 1's, I have 6 and ones got Tim's audio mod in it.
I wanted every BIOS revision, but now I have a double up or 2
I only just got rid of all the genuine master system controllers, they sold quite quickly at 50 a pop!. One less bag of electronic clutter. It's pretty bad here. I was meant to send a modded PS1 off today, but can't find double sided tape or hot glue gun to mount my nano in the corner... So, will be modding that tonight. The modchip (written by me) is fussy with MCU's, i.e. works on 328P and not a 168P, and the only difference SHOULD be the amount of memory. Going to try an LGT8F328P *fingers crossed*. It works on other projects partially - bar the SPI stuff.
Just for lopenator, I found one of the supplies I was bundling with master systems, this ones polarity switching bit got finicky (internal break)
So, it's this easy to switch polarity:
https://imgur.com/gallery/gLBxhMq
Edit: A huge percentage of people in the world will scream "Fire hazard" and be on high alert with anything like this modification, but I assure you, it's safe.
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Re: SNES PSU
To add to this, my first return was a master system sold without a power pack ...but with clear notes on the PSU requirements.
I told her a million times it was probably the wrong supply and out of all the master systems I've ever touched, only a single ONE had a bad 7805.
I assured her it worked and it was tested.
She insisted on sending it back.
Out of sheer frustration i charged her $80 to fit a power LED and sent it back. She covered shipping both ways lol
I told her a million times it was probably the wrong supply and out of all the master systems I've ever touched, only a single ONE had a bad 7805.
I assured her it worked and it was tested.
She insisted on sending it back.
Out of sheer frustration i charged her $80 to fit a power LED and sent it back. She covered shipping both ways lol
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Re: SNES PSU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbHH9n4lSio
Also check this out, It should be called "How not to make a Sega Saturn PSU board - hackery ahead!
Also check this out, It should be called "How not to make a Sega Saturn PSU board - hackery ahead!
Re: SNES PSU
All you did was solder power to neutral and vice versa?VajSkids Consoles wrote:Just for lopenator, I found one of the supplies I was bundling with master systems, this ones polarity switching bit got finicky (internal break)
So, it's this easy to switch polarity:
https://imgur.com/gallery/gLBxhMq
I don't think ill buy a lab bench PSU. It would go to waste. I would literally only use it for my SNES. Certainly is hardcore! lol
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Re: SNES PSU
I think you are missing the point.
It's now a centre negative supply.
It's now a centre negative supply.