The YPbPr level is 0.7v right? if I injected the sync signal at TTL then Y signal will go up to 5v. Is that ok?vol.2 wrote:For sync, the level is much less of an issue because it's not going to change the brightness value or anything. For example, the Extron RGB units output TTL level sync, and that seems to fine for most equipment.VEGETA wrote: well, many people keep posting that this level destroys their scart and video equipment. I am well aware of dangers of higher voltage than rated but if current is so low then danger should be minimized... but I didn't test it on these type of equipment, so I cannot decide.
When you posted your question, I was just answering it without really thinking about what you were trying to do, but Max is totally right, it should be fine.
For reference: https://www.extron.com/product/rgb203rxi
Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
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maxtherabbit
- Posts: 1763
- Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:03 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I actually have no idea what he's trying to do I was just pro-TTL shitpostingvol.2 wrote:For sync, the level is much less of an issue because it's not going to change the brightness value or anything. For example, the Extron RGB units output TTL level sync, and that seems to fine for most equipment.VEGETA wrote: well, many people keep posting that this level destroys their scart and video equipment. I am well aware of dangers of higher voltage than rated but if current is so low then danger should be minimized... but I didn't test it on these type of equipment, so I cannot decide.
When you posted your question, I was just answering it without really thinking about what you were trying to do, but Max is totally right, it should be fine.
For reference: https://www.extron.com/product/rgb203rxi
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
VEGETA wrote: The YPbPr level is 0.7v right? if I injected the sync signal at TTL then Y signal will go up to 5v. Is that ok?
Nope. Still didn't read your OP. Sorry. I was entirely responding to Max's reaction.
If you want to manufacture a YPbPr signal, I would expect that you could use a dedicated chip for that. I'm not totally sure (I could use UNSEEN's expertise on this), but I think that the duty cycle of the CMOS sync is different from composite video. That in itself would be enough to screw up the math when the YPbPr is decoded inside your set. And CSYNC is also completely different from LUMA (Y), which is a black and white video signal. The YPbPr uses the luma values to do math against in order to derive the color information, it's not just there for sync.
Can't you just use a chip that encodes YPbPr natively?
I went back and read your OP. Can you provide a better explanation of how you are hooking all this up including the AD725? Put together a simple block diagram of what you are trying to accomplish.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
vol.2 wrote:VEGETA wrote: The YPbPr level is 0.7v right? if I injected the sync signal at TTL then Y signal will go up to 5v. Is that ok?
Nope. Still didn't read your OP. Sorry. I was entirely responding to Max's reaction.
If you want to manufacture a YPbPr signal, I would expect that you could use a dedicated chip for that. I'm not totally sure (I could use UNSEEN's expertise on this), but I think that the duty cycle of the CMOS sync is different from composite video. That in itself would be enough to screw up the math when the YPbPr is decoded inside your set. And CSYNC is also completely different from LUMA (Y), which is a black and white video signal. The YPbPr uses the luma values to do math against in order to derive the color information, it's not just there for sync.
Can't you just use a chip that encodes YPbPr natively?
I went back and read your OP. Can you provide a better explanation of how you are hooking all this up including the AD725? Put together a simple block diagram of what you are trying to accomplish.
I built a schematic with PCB in KiCAD to do SCART or VGA to YPbPr + composite + S-video conversion. CVBS + S-video is done by AD725 which is a separate circuit all by itself.
YPbPr circuit is using a very good op-amp which in its datasheet and other papers used to do such conversion, the circuit is very famous and simple. Now the problem is that I need to inject Csync signal into the Y line. I've seen a circuit sent to me by someone who makes such a circuit in his product and it uses a series resistor from csync directly at the Y input (after the 75R of Y signal as seen in my picture above).
The only question was if this csync signal here with the resistor... is it gonna be attenuated enough? or should I just dump it as is without resistor... right now I put 324R one.
Sync in my circuit is done via LMH1980 which takes either SCART sync (pin 20 which could be csync or sync-on-luma) or sync-on-green via a simple switch. then outputs csync + hsync + vsync.
h and v sync is fed into another switch to choose between them or the h and v sync of VGA input since this will be how you choose between scart and vga... the final h and v sync after the switch goes to AD725.
as for YPbPr, it should take a csync signal as explained, therefore I take the csync of LMH1980 (which is the scart input csync) then put it in a switch to choose between it and a csync from vga input (via XNOR combiner circuit)... final csync goes to be injected into Y signal using a 324R resistor...
this was a complete summery and as you see, everything works perfectly fine except this small issue about sync level and how to properly inject it into Y signal. pretty much all circuits seen to agree that you just wire it directly at the Y signal but they differ in resistor used.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If you are certain that the LMH1980 outputs composite video as sync, and not cleaned csync, then it could work.VEGETA wrote:pretty much all circuits seen to agree that you just wire it directly at the Y signal but they differ in resistor used.
Assuming that's all correct, the way forward is to get a variable resistor in the range you are looking at and dial it in until the signal is what you want it to be. I guess just choose a center value that is the mean of resistor values you have come across, and give yourself about double the value to adjust it so you have plenty of headroom. I would recommend getting a sealed bournes unit with a 5 turn minimum so you can go very slowly. It will only cost about $3.
Also, you could consider using a voltage divider instead of an in-line resistor.
That being said, I definitely wouldn't want to do something this without a scope, and you will need a 75 ohm terminator and a splitter on the probe inputs. (as per the LMH1980 datasheet) And if the device you are testing is connected to the wall, you will either need to connect it to an isolation transformer or use a battery powered scope in order to avoid blowing stuff up. (if you are in a country that references neutral to ground at the circuit breaker, which includes all of North America and probably other places)
With a scope, you should be able to just view the waveforms and adjust the circuit until it looks right.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
LMH1980 outputs cleared Csync not SoC. Csync is what is needed to be injected into Y line.vol.2 wrote:If you are certain that the LMH1980 outputs composite video as sync, and not cleaned csync, then it could work.VEGETA wrote:pretty much all circuits seen to agree that you just wire it directly at the Y signal but they differ in resistor used.
Assuming that's all correct, the way forward is to get a variable resistor in the range you are looking at and dial it in until the signal is what you want it to be. I guess just choose a center value that is the mean of resistor values you have come across, and give yourself about double the value to adjust it so you have plenty of headroom. I would recommend getting a sealed bournes unit with a 5 turn minimum so you can go very slowly. It will only cost about $3.
Also, you could consider using a voltage divider instead of an in-line resistor.
That being said, I definitely wouldn't want to do something this without a scope, and you will need a 75 ohm terminator and a splitter on the probe inputs. (as per the LMH1980 datasheet) And if the device you are testing is connected to the wall, you will either need to connect it to an isolation transformer or use a battery powered scope in order to avoid blowing stuff up. (if you are in a country that references neutral to ground at the circuit breaker, which includes all of North America and probably other places)
With a scope, you should be able to just view the waveforms and adjust the circuit until it looks right.
I think I will go with 324R for now and test it with my stuff like OSSC and other generic component to hdmi converter. all designs I saw uses 300-470R resistors too.
unfortunately, I don't own a scope now... I will get one in the future though. I could get a picoscope which is the cheapest available now.
the design puts 75R terminator resistors on YPbPr lines, please check the picture. it is assumed that all input devices which will take these signals will have a 75R too.
my choice was either 324R or 470R, I went with 324R since I am using it elsewhere in the schematic and it is near in value.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Which devices can convert AV to YPbPr (or RGB) ?
Koryuu only?
Koryuu only?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
There are other devices on the market (especially the 2nd hand market) that can, but some don't properly support 240/288p.Which devices can convert AV to YPbPr (or RGB) ?
Koryuu only?
Riddle me this. I have this light gun for my Xbox - https://xbox.fandom.com/wiki/Sniper_Sco ... 26_Shotgun
It works great in House of the Dead 3, but when I load House of the Dead 2, which is part of the same package, I can't even fire off a shot.
How can that be?
OSSC Forums - http://www.videogameperfection.com/forums
Please check the Wiki before posting about Morph, OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page
Please check the Wiki before posting about Morph, OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page
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- Posts: 1532
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:53 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Do you own the Mad Catz OG Xbox light guns to try? I'm pretty sure I've tried my pelican light gun on HotD 2 (not positive but pretty sure), but 99% of the time have the Mad Catz ones out which I know for 100% work on HotD 3 & 2.BuckoA51 wrote: It works great in House of the Dead 3, but when I load House of the Dead 2, which is part of the same package, I can't even fire off a shot.
How can that be?
You ever try the Silent Scope Complete light gun game? Have you ever gotten that game to play without having to jack-up up the brightness to extreme levels on your CRT? I always people about this if it comes up since I've tried dozens of sets and the game just seem to be faulty - I can ONLY play with the brightness so high you can barely see the graphics clearly.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I've only got the sniper scope/shotgun convertible ones as per the link unfortunately.
I do have the HDMI mod installed and I'm running through a DAC, but I swear House of the Dead 3 works perfectly in this configuration and if it were a case of the Xbox not being able to see the guns position on the screen you'd at least think it could recognise the trigger...
Really weird. Next time I visit my friend I'll try it on his non HDMI modded Xbox.
Man that game was incredible in the arcades, so atmospheric and tense.
I do have the HDMI mod installed and I'm running through a DAC, but I swear House of the Dead 3 works perfectly in this configuration and if it were a case of the Xbox not being able to see the guns position on the screen you'd at least think it could recognise the trigger...
Really weird. Next time I visit my friend I'll try it on his non HDMI modded Xbox.
I haven't but I will at some point, I believe that's a well known fault of that particular game though, certainly from what I've seen online.You ever try the Silent Scope Complete light gun game? Have you ever gotten that game to play without having to jack-up up the brightness to extreme levels on your CRT? I always people about this if it comes up since I've tried dozens of sets and the game just seem to be faulty - I can ONLY play with the brightness so high you can barely see the graphics clearly.
Man that game was incredible in the arcades, so atmospheric and tense.
OSSC Forums - http://www.videogameperfection.com/forums
Please check the Wiki before posting about Morph, OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page
Please check the Wiki before posting about Morph, OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page
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kitty666cats
- Posts: 1274
- Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2019 2:03 am
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Kramer VM-19N / Kramer FC-19 are relatively common on eBay lately. They’re not all that great, I wouldn’t suggest spending too much on them but if you NEED un-scaled composite/svid fed into something like a scaler/an otherwise all-RGB setup then you should be able to find one. Look for my thread on here about decoders, I have looked into them quite a bit/which ones can properly pass 240p.nolepe wrote:Which devices can convert AV to YPbPr (or RGB) ?
Koryuu only?
If you can ever find the CYP CMT-7, I like it FAR more than those Kramer units. It was also released under the AVToolbox brand.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193658421435
^ I have a strong hunch this one should pass 240p… looks like it may need a remote tho?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203302660994
^ This may work as well… also has a ENcoder for RGB -> composite included in the listing, heh
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303665827219
^ This also may work… unfortunately no S-Video in, just composite. You’d also seemingly need to wire up a DIY connector for plugging into an outlet, as obviously this is meant for cars
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192855554082
^ This unit is very old, therefore it’s almost 100% certainly analog circuitry/prob passes 240p. But once again, no Svid in on it…
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133799228165
^ Someone on this board confirmed this Kramer unit passes 240p. As a bonus, can also use for RGB->component or component->RGB!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202893376986
^ LASTLY, this may possibly work…? It was also released by Marantz as the VQ2400. Apparently it also supports 480p component passthrough/has some sorta TBC qualities/digital comb filtering so IDK, am sorta skeptical… here’s some info:
http://www.spectrumelectronicsolutions. ... _final.pdf
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/37729 ... q2400.html
EDIT:
Here's another one, made specifically for 240p
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164923340517
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HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
OK, I bought an extron SMX 300 with HDMI and VGA matrix capabilities...and it isn't dead!
The fans are super loud though and I'd like to replace them. The unit ships with 2x SANYO DENKI Model 109L0624F401
https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/471/S ... 360963.pdf
24V
0.05A
(this works out to 1.2W?)
3,200 rpm
15 cfm
24dBA
It doesn't appear that everyone's go-to suggestion Noctua makes an appropriate fan replacement in 60mm x 60mm x 25mm at 24V. Any suggestions?
Shopping for fans on mouser (is my math right on that 1.2W) do I need to get another fan at 1.2W, or can I get higher or lower? Like this cheapo unit for instance only rated to .72W
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/NMB ... 7P9Q%3D%3D
and further to that...how in the hell do you get the second fan out? is a complete disassembly required? Thanks!
The fans are super loud though and I'd like to replace them. The unit ships with 2x SANYO DENKI Model 109L0624F401
https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/471/S ... 360963.pdf
24V
0.05A
(this works out to 1.2W?)
3,200 rpm
15 cfm
24dBA
It doesn't appear that everyone's go-to suggestion Noctua makes an appropriate fan replacement in 60mm x 60mm x 25mm at 24V. Any suggestions?
Shopping for fans on mouser (is my math right on that 1.2W) do I need to get another fan at 1.2W, or can I get higher or lower? Like this cheapo unit for instance only rated to .72W
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/NMB ... 7P9Q%3D%3D
and further to that...how in the hell do you get the second fan out? is a complete disassembly required? Thanks!
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Lower is fine (better actually). You just don't want to get one that draws more current because you don't know what the power supply for the fans is capable of.HDgaming42 wrote: Shopping for fans on mouser (is my math right on that 1.2W) do I need to get another fan at 1.2W, or can I get higher or lower? Like this cheapo unit for instance only rated to .72W
I would maybe pick this one instead: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Su ... r3yQ%3D%3D
http://portal.sunon.com.tw/pls/portal/s ... 2E2E706466
It's a little quieter, and it pushes more air than the one you chose. I also know Sunon better than the other company.
I can't help you with the disassembly, I've never had one of those racks before.
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HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks for this--you found me a fan with much better stats!vol.2 wrote:Lower is fine (better actually). You just don't want to get one that draws more current because you don't know what the power supply for the fans is capable of.HDgaming42 wrote: Shopping for fans on mouser (is my math right on that 1.2W) do I need to get another fan at 1.2W, or can I get higher or lower? Like this cheapo unit for instance only rated to .72W
I would maybe pick this one instead: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Su ... r3yQ%3D%3D
http://portal.sunon.com.tw/pls/portal/s ... 2E2E706466
It's a little quieter, and it pushes more air than the one you chose. I also know Sunon better than the other company.
I can't help you with the disassembly, I've never had one of those racks before.
I see this (and most fans on mouser) only have two wires. The existing fans within the extron have 3. I suspect the 3rd is to read RPM? Do you think I would need to replace them with a 3 wire fan in order for them to function, or could I get away with 2?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Yes, the Sun Ace fan has a Pulse Sensor lead on it to output the tach signal. I don't know anything about the function of the Extron unit, but it could be used as feedback for the fan speed (voltage) if it doesn't run full blast all the time. I think the unit would also require a temp sensor to make that useful, but I'm not really sure. My guess is that it would just end up running full blast all the time. You can test that theory by just pulling the sensor wire from your existing fans and running it for awhile. I wouldn't think it would be a problem, but I don't know for sure without knowing what's under the hood of the rack unit.HDgaming42 wrote: I see this (and most fans on mouser) only have two wires. The existing fans within the extron have 3. I suspect the 3rd is to read RPM? Do you think I would need to replace them with a 3 wire fan in order for them to function, or could I get away with 2?
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kitty666cats
- Posts: 1274
- Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2019 2:03 am
- Location: Massachusetts, USA
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
A precaution on the Kramer FC-4040, btw - found conflicting info on it properly handling 240p! Dunno for sure, never tried one… perhaps it needs to be tweaked to specific settings.kitty666cats wrote:Kramer VM-19N / Kramer FC-19 are relatively common on eBay lately. They’re not all that great, I wouldn’t suggest spending too much on them but if you NEED un-scaled composite/svid fed into something like a scaler/an otherwise all-RGB setup then you should be able to find one. Look for my thread on here about decoders, I have looked into them quite a bit/which ones can properly pass 240p.nolepe wrote:Which devices can convert AV to YPbPr (or RGB) ?
Koryuu only?
If you can ever find the CYP CMT-7, I like it FAR more than those Kramer units. It was also released under the AVToolbox brand.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193658421435
^ I have a strong hunch this one should pass 240p… looks like it may need a remote tho?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203302660994
^ This may work as well… also has a ENcoder for RGB -> composite included in the listing, heh
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303665827219
^ This also may work… unfortunately no S-Video in, just composite. You’d also seemingly need to wire up a DIY connector for plugging into an outlet, as obviously this is meant for cars
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192855554082
^ This unit is very old, therefore it’s almost 100% certainly analog circuitry/prob passes 240p. But once again, no Svid in on it…
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133799228165
^ Someone on this board confirmed this Kramer unit passes 240p. As a bonus, can also use for RGB->component or component->RGB!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202893376986
^ LASTLY, this may possibly work…? It was also released by Marantz as the VQ2400. Apparently it also supports 480p component passthrough/has some sorta TBC qualities/digital comb filtering so IDK, am sorta skeptical… here’s some info:
http://www.spectrumelectronicsolutions. ... _final.pdf
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/37729 ... q2400.html
EDIT:
Here's another one, made specifically for 240p
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164923340517
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/where- ... 101/page-3
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- Posts: 1532
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:53 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I haven't followed the OG Xbox HDMI mods (or if the DAC does something weird to the one signal) but make sure it's outputting 480i. The light gun won't work in 480p on the OG Xbox. Have no clue why it would work on 3 but not 2 though so this probably isn't the case...BuckoA51 wrote:I've only got the sniper scope/shotgun convertible ones as per the link unfortunately.
I do have the HDMI mod installed and I'm running through a DAC, but I swear House of the Dead 3 works perfectly in this configuration and if it were a case of the Xbox not being able to see the guns position on the screen you'd at least think it could recognise the trigger...
Did you buy ones before that didn't work? Think I'm at 3x SMX's now and all worked... well, except for the HDMI cards not liking OSSC 4x or 5x (or might have been 2x 480p OSSC + DSC 301 HD it didn't like). Sold mine (technically still have one left with a single 8x4 VGA/RGBS/YPbPr/etc. card if anybody is in the market...) because I mainly bought it for my upscaling needs and if HDMI wasn't 100% on it I wasn't going to keep it. Sadly had to go to multiple HDMI splitters and a Vorke auto-HDMI-switch instead.HDgaming42 wrote:OK, I bought an extron SMX 300 with HDMI and VGA matrix capabilities...and it isn't dead
I'm not convinced on the FC-4040 either. The one from eBay I got had bad interference on 240p (honestly forget exactly what... that's just what I typed in my notes). Got green + sync to work on another one a kind forum member sent me, and it looked like 240p didn't work, only 480i... but definitely not the test subject since it was broke.kitty666cats wrote: A precaution on the Kramer FC-4040, btw - found conflicting info on it properly handling 240p! Dunno for sure, never tried one… perhaps it needs to be tweaked to specific settings.
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/where- ... 101/page-3
I use the FC-4044 for Composite (which I might have never used) and S-Video (which I use for N64 and SVHS) to RGBS or YPbPr. I have two of them which work great. Had to replace the 2x largest capacitors on one but that was a like $5 fix. Haven't been following them on eBay since I got my main unit + a backup unit, but they were popping up a couple times a year.nolepe wrote:Which devices can convert AV to YPbPr (or RGB) ?
Koryuu only?
There's many other NEW devices (well, at least not from like early 90's like these old Kramers' we're talking about are) that the arcade guys use for this conversion. Many are DIY and/or bare board though.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
anyone tried this scaler: https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/4K-60Hz-H ... B07PFSWN6P
it uses Lattice SiI9612 video processor and scaler. it is super cheap IC as it seems, I hope someone try this and report back to us.
thanks
it uses Lattice SiI9612 video processor and scaler. it is super cheap IC as it seems, I hope someone try this and report back to us.
thanks
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NewSchoolBoxer
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2019 2:53 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I mean, I opened up Nintendo and Sony official JP-21 cables and they shared the same ground for every pin that was a ground. Was easy to verify with multimeter continuity test. S-Video I looked at shared the ground for Y and C.RottenToTheGore wrote:Going to try my hand at making a console to HD15 cable soon, have a 5 conductor cable, each individually shielded. Only need 4 of them in this case. This is just for video, as audio will be a separate wire.
Pins 1 2 and 3 are for RGB, with ground for each going to 6, 7 and 8.
Pin 13 is H-Sync, and Pin 5 is H-Sync ground, simple there.
But I've seen some diagrams with multiple ground pins connected to each other, is that something that always needs to be done? On the console end all of the ground signals would go to one ground pin.
Hypothetically, it's better to have separate grounds since if voltage induces on one ground wire, it then doesn't throw off the potential difference for all of them. I think in real life, that adds too much complexity and you shouldn't assume you have noisy cables. Share the ground pin unless you have a non-hypothetical reason to separate them. That said, I haven't opened up a mainstream VGA cable to see if it works any differently.
TTL 4 Life. 0.3 Vp-p is wussy low voltage for Euro non-PVM CRTs that aren't smart enough to handle YPbPr or sync on green. People adding step down resistors to their Nintendo and Sony system sync lines, leave TTL alone!maxtherabbit wrote:I actually have no idea what he's trying to do I was just pro-TTL shitposting
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HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
No, this was my first SMX purchase. It just came on the heels of a dead SW4 VGA ars unit. Before that had a dead 301HD and a dead SW6 RGBHV.Dochartaigh wrote:Did you buy ones before that didn't work? Think I'm at 3x SMX's now and all worked... well, except for the HDMI cards not liking OSSC 4x or 5x (or might have been 2x 480p OSSC + DSC 301 HD it didn't like). Sold mine (technically still have one left with a single 8x4 VGA/RGBS/YPbPr/etc. card if anybody is in the market...) because I mainly bought it for my upscaling needs and if HDMI wasn't 100% on it I wasn't going to keep it. Sadly had to go to multiple HDMI splitters and a Vorke auto-HDMI-switch instead.HDgaming42 wrote:OK, I bought an extron SMX 300 with HDMI and VGA matrix capabilities...and it isn't dead
You're not alone in that when I had my OSCC it didn't play nicely with the 301 HD.
I'm still in the market for a USB module for the SMX--they rarely seem to show up eBay alone--I have no need for another SMX chassis.
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HDgaming42
- Posts: 331
- Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:16 am
- Location: Canada
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Extron gear air flow question:
I have an Extron 301 HD and now an Extron DXP 42 HD 4K Plus. They are both 1/2 rack units and came with a RSU 129 rack shelf, which is listed as an optional accessory on the 301 HD product page (but is nowhere to be found in the manual). I know the 301 HD gets really hot in operation, so this concerns me:
https://www.extron.com/product/rsu129
It appears neither unit has a fan, so cooling is simply convection. Would it be a probelm to mount them both in the above shelf do you think? Both sets of side vents on both units would be completely osbcured...
I have an Extron 301 HD and now an Extron DXP 42 HD 4K Plus. They are both 1/2 rack units and came with a RSU 129 rack shelf, which is listed as an optional accessory on the 301 HD product page (but is nowhere to be found in the manual). I know the 301 HD gets really hot in operation, so this concerns me:
https://www.extron.com/product/rsu129
It appears neither unit has a fan, so cooling is simply convection. Would it be a probelm to mount them both in the above shelf do you think? Both sets of side vents on both units would be completely osbcured...
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- Posts: 1532
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:53 pm
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I have two 301 HD's and have one of them mounted on that same exact shelf with a OSSC next to it (and have used that same rack shelf for multiple Extron RGB's, Extron VSC's, etc.). It's been probably a few years now and no issue with the 301 HD and heat. I never even noticed it gets hot TBH, but it's in a ~7' tall rack with a bunch of other gear in it and CRT's all around so that room heats up quickly regardless.HDgaming42 wrote:Extron gear air flow question:
I have an Extron 301 HD and now an Extron DXP 42 HD 4K Plus. They are both 1/2 rack units and came with a RSU 129 rack shelf, which is listed as an optional accessory on the 301 HD product page (but is nowhere to be found in the manual). I know the 301 HD gets really hot in operation, so this concerns me
Anyway, I trust Extron to have designed it properly and for it to be long lasting without a fan in it – no matter how you mount it. The 301 HD isn't full 1U height either so it's open air on the top and back as well, unlike the majority of my other rack mounted equipment so it actually has more room to breath than most.
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HDgaming42
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks! My rack has become quite crowded and every inch counts (no room to expand). At first I was put-off by the 1/2 height nature of both units, but mounted together they look good, and you're right--that 1/2" gap provides a bit of airflow.Dochartaigh wrote:I have two 301 HD's and have one of them mounted on that same exact shelf with a OSSC next to it (and have used that same rack shelf for multiple Extron RGB's, Extron VSC's, etc.). It's been probably a few years now and no issue with the 301 HD and heat. I never even noticed it gets hot TBH, but it's in a ~7' tall rack with a bunch of other gear in it and CRT's all around so that room heats up quickly regardless.HDgaming42 wrote:Extron gear air flow question:
I have an Extron 301 HD and now an Extron DXP 42 HD 4K Plus. They are both 1/2 rack units and came with a RSU 129 rack shelf, which is listed as an optional accessory on the 301 HD product page (but is nowhere to be found in the manual). I know the 301 HD gets really hot in operation, so this concerns me
Anyway, I trust Extron to have designed it properly and for it to be long lasting without a fan in it – no matter how you mount it. The 301 HD isn't full 1U height either so it's open air on the top and back as well, unlike the majority of my other rack mounted equipment so it actually has more room to breath than most.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Are all your links to old units ?kitty666cats wrote: This unit
Nobody makes AV-RGB AV-Ypbpr devices today?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The Koryuu is the only one that is readily available. There are IIRC some units from the arcade world too.
There's not that much demand for such a product because people who have consoles that only output composite typically pair them with scalers/devices that support composite.
There's not that much demand for such a product because people who have consoles that only output composite typically pair them with scalers/devices that support composite.
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Yeah, all my links are old stuff - modern options that confirmed pass 240p are just the Koryuu & RT2X on passthrough w/ a DAC on output.nolepe wrote:Are all your links to old units ?kitty666cats wrote: This unit
Nobody makes AV-RGB AV-Ypbpr devices today?
I am a big proponent of my CYP CMT-7, but it seems incredibly hard to find
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
By the time you're combining the Koryuu or RT2X with a DAC and an OSSC, you really ought to have just used something like an RT5X in the first place. It has better comb filters anyhow.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Can you see any advantages of this CYP unit in picture quality over an RT2X passthrough+DAC combo? Or would it just be about the single-device all-analogue convenience?kitty666cats wrote:I am a big proponent of my CYP CMT-7, but it seems incredibly hard to find
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kitty666cats
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Have never personally used the RT2X + DAC - here is some pics of the CYP unit RGBS out w/ N64 Svid as input:fernan1234 wrote:Can you see any advantages of this CYP unit in picture quality over an RT2X passthrough+DAC combo? Or would it just be about the single-device all-analogue convenience?kitty666cats wrote:I am a big proponent of my CYP CMT-7, but it seems incredibly hard to find
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRC6ejJlRAv/
The Kramer VM-19N, by comparison, seems to have duller colors (tried two units and someone else I know had tried one as well)
As a bonus, CMT-7 can also be set to component out. Nothing special, but I think it's fine enough for when I get a non-borrowed N64 / anyone who owns a PC-FX... I mostly use the thing for stuff like VHS and LD as my NetTV monitor has atrocious comb filtering (see the article on Mike Moffitt's website)
But obviously an RGB mod is always the best option
NoAffinity briefly borrowed my CMT-7 to fix a flimsy part on it/seemed pretty pleased with its quality whilst testing it out. Not too bad a device for chaining into gaming scalers, should anyone come across one for cheap
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks for the pics. Those look great! I briefly used a Kramer unit once and did find colors to look a bit dull. It sounds like the conversion with this CYP one is virtually "lossless". It feels that way with the RT2X passthrough too. I guess an OSSC's passthrough should perform similarly. But you never really know until you compare these things and see something even better.kitty666cats wrote: Have never personally used the RT2X + DAC - here is some pics of the CYP unit RGBS out w/ N64 Svid as input:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRC6ejJlRAv/
The Kramer VM-19N, by comparison, seems to have duller colors (tried two units and someone else I know had tried one as well)