Questions that do not deserve a thread

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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

BazookaBen wrote: Will there be a problem if the Hori gets 5v, or DS3 gets 3.3v?
DS3 is designed to run off a 3.7VDC lipo battery, so it might be okay on 3.3, but it will suck power. It has a VR inside that can handle 5VDC when it's connected (and probably a bit more).

Both of them have a voltage regulator, so you would need to check that out and see what the system they designed can handle.

The Hori is less likely to be okay on 5V, but you could step it down np.
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by BazookaBen »

What would happen if I just didn't connect the Vcc to both, but only to their respective PCB's? Phantom or dropped inputs?
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

BazookaBen wrote:What would happen if I just didn't connect the Vcc to both, but only to their respective PCB's? Phantom or dropped inputs?

I think I misunderstood what you are asking. I thought you wanted to switch the boards back, but now I think maybe you want both in there at the same time. Which is it?


IAC, if you want both in there, I would assume you are leaving both connectors to hook up to each system and just wiring the buttons to both. I don't think it's an issue to do that as long as you don't have both plugged in at the same time.

If you were worried, and wanted to be safe, I supposed you could try using an AND Gate for the buttons by hooking up one side of each gate to the power input rail from the connector. That way the gate for the button will only open if the connector is plugged into it's system. TI makes lots of super cheap gates with 4 inputs each, you could probably do it with 8 of them.
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by BazookaBen »

I want both at the same time. The original Hori PS1/2 board, and the Dualshock 3

The reason I'm confused is that a lot of multi-pcb tutorials, like on Shoryuken, say you need to have the both Vcc's going to both boards, but they don't really say why. The tutorial at the bottom of this page says you'll get "weird behavior" if you don't: https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html

And that AND gate idea is pretty neat. It might even be a good solution for the multiple ground issue on the Dualshock 3. Could feed the four different groups of grounds through the and gate, only have them connected when 5V from usb is present.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by jd213 »

BazookaBen wrote:What would happen if I just didn't connect the Vcc to both, but only to their respective PCB's? Phantom or dropped inputs?
The one time I tried doing 2 padhacks at once in a stick, it was with NES and PCE pads. The PCE one worked fine, but the NES one wouldn't work at all with Vcc connected. And after disconnecting Vcc, I got random phantom Start button inputs on certain games (not sure why not on others).

So I just started leaving the pad outside the stick and connecting only one at a time, don't have to worry about Vcc that way. Lets me easily add pads for other systems.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bovineicide »

Google seems to be failing me, but is there a way to change or mod the autofire rate on an HRAP 4? The default rate feels like 10hz and I'd like to bump it all the way up to 30hz.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Smashbro29 »

bobrocks95 wrote:
Smashbro29 wrote:Could I do a full quality RGB upscaling setup without SCART? Do I lose anything going all in on component cables? I recall framemesiter processed component worse or different but the new options seem to do it just fine.
Theoretically you might be losing detail going from RGB to component then back to RGB, but in practice it's probably not going to do much if anything. I'd be more concerned about switches, as I never found a good one for component. Even an Audio Authority one I had couldn't auto switch and made the output sync levels too hot so that white screens would lose picture on the display.
Why would it go back to RGB? I was thinking I could just replace all my scart cables with component connections.

I had a decent monoprice switch that worked out great for my gc/ps2/xbox, does rgb make them different or something? I'm gonna apologize ahead of time, I was never too great on this to begin with and now I'm really rusty on top of it.
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

BazookaBen wrote: The reason I'm confused is that a lot of multi-pcb tutorials, like on Shoryuken, say you need to have the both Vcc's going to both boards, but they don't really say why.
I don't blame you. That's a confusing page; like it was google translated with beta software from an obscure language. But more than that it doesn't really tell you much other than to explain what to do, not why.


In terms of connecting the switches together, the only reason (I can think of) it would be an issue is if (when you press a button) one board pulls the other one high or low when you want it to be going the other way.
If that happens, I think the &gates should be able to solve that, as you will be isolating the switch connections with logic. You could use relays instead, but I think it would be more expensive and cumbersome.

I haven't done this operation before, but I would be very hesitant to gang together the two Vccs; I would expect that to cause issues.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Smashbro29 wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
Smashbro29 wrote:Could I do a full quality RGB upscaling setup without SCART? Do I lose anything going all in on component cables? I recall framemesiter processed component worse or different but the new options seem to do it just fine.
Theoretically you might be losing detail going from RGB to component then back to RGB, but in practice it's probably not going to do much if anything. I'd be more concerned about switches, as I never found a good one for component. Even an Audio Authority one I had couldn't auto switch and made the output sync levels too hot so that white screens would lose picture on the display.
Why would it go back to RGB? I was thinking I could just replace all my scart cables with component connections.

I had a decent monoprice switch that worked out great for my gc/ps2/xbox, does rgb make them different or something? I'm gonna apologize ahead of time, I was never too great on this to begin with and now I'm really rusty on top of it.
I guess you could pass RGsB over custom component cables with some method of sync combining, but I figured you'd be getting HD Retrovision cables, which are going to convert the console signal to YPbPr, then I believe something like an OSSC is going to process the signal in 4:4:4 RGB and output it to your display like that. Unless I'm misunderstanding something about the cables you're going to use.

I'm sure there are decent component switch options, but auto-switching is a game-changer when you've got 8+ systems hooked up and just want to turn something on and play it. A Pelican switch I had added a ton of noise, and like I said the Audio Authority (fancy brand for professional installs like churches/schools) one screwed up the output.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guspaz »

gcompsw has auto-switching, multiple outputs, and can be daisy-chained, just like gscartsw can. The difference is that there is no need for any dip switches on the gcompsw because there's no sync shenanigans with component ;)
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Guspaz wrote:gcompsw has auto-switching, multiple outputs, and can be daisy-chained, just like gscartsw can. The difference is that there is no need for any dip switches on the gcompsw because there's no sync shenanigans with component ;)
I mean it's also $240 and has an inconvenient vertical footprint that looks like you have to set it on the top of whatever media furniture you're using...
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guspaz »

It's probably a smaller footprint than the ones that put all the plugs on the back.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

A smaller vertical footprint? Almost every setup I see online just has it sitting on top of something. A few bolted to the back of some media furniture that now can't sit close to a wall. Maybe it can hide behind a flat panel well enough but it's wasting a ton of space on a shelf.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guspaz »

No, you need 4-5" of overhead clearance for it at least, but most places I might try to put a switch would have at least that much if not more.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Kiken »

I need to replace the volume pot on my Strikers 1945 II board. Should I go with a 100K Ohm pot?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by SCARTicus »

maxtherabbit wrote:If you're in the continental US I can make you a multi out to VGA dongle for $25 shipped
Are you going to open an online storefront? Last I heard you got your 3D printer. People want dongles! I think. I mean, I do. But if you build-to-order then you can't lose.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Smashbro29 »

bobrocks95 wrote:
I guess you could pass RGsB over custom component cables with some method of sync combining, but I figured you'd be getting HD Retrovision cables, which are going to convert the console signal to YPbPr, then I believe something like an OSSC is going to process the signal in 4:4:4 RGB and output it to your display like that. Unless I'm misunderstanding something about the cables you're going to use.

I'm sure there are decent component switch options, but auto-switching is a game-changer when you've got 8+ systems hooked up and just want to turn something on and play it. A Pelican switch I had added a ton of noise, and like I said the Audio Authority (fancy brand for professional installs like churches/schools) one screwed up the output.
So real talk, I don't know what I'm talking about. I saw people using component cables instead of scart, scart has always been touchy for me and too delicate for when I take my setup out to events/friends + with component I can have all my stuff use one connector, so when I saw people talking about component cables it sounded amazing and I want that. Maybe it was HD retrovision? You seem to imply that'd be both simple and the difference compared to "pure" RGB would be imperceptible so let's assume that.

I haven't looked for switches in some time. Holy hell, it's worse than ever now. There isn't even an overpriced community component switcher these days? I remember there being a scart one.

edit: Missed some posts, 8 inputs in, 2 out is actually pretty solid. It does look huge but how else would all the inputs fit on a thing like this?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

SCARTicus wrote:
maxtherabbit wrote:If you're in the continental US I can make you a multi out to VGA dongle for $25 shipped
Are you going to open an online storefront? Last I heard you got your 3D printer. People want dongles! I think. I mean, I do. But if you build-to-order then you can't lose.
Probably maybe idk that sounds like a lot of work

I'd much rather sell them to some kind of vendor but I need to get the assembly process outsourced.

I'm losing my ass on labor if I have to build them by hand
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

Smashbro29 wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
I guess you could pass RGsB over custom component cables with some method of sync combining, but I figured you'd be getting HD Retrovision cables, which are going to convert the console signal to YPbPr, then I believe something like an OSSC is going to process the signal in 4:4:4 RGB and output it to your display like that. Unless I'm misunderstanding something about the cables you're going to use.

I'm sure there are decent component switch options, but auto-switching is a game-changer when you've got 8+ systems hooked up and just want to turn something on and play it. A Pelican switch I had added a ton of noise, and like I said the Audio Authority (fancy brand for professional installs like churches/schools) one screwed up the output.
So real talk, I don't know what I'm talking about. I saw people using component cables instead of scart, scart has always been touchy for me and too delicate for when I take my setup out to events/friends + with component I can have all my stuff use one connector, so when I saw people talking about component cables it sounded amazing and I want that. Maybe it was HD retrovision? You seem to imply that'd be both simple and the difference compared to "pure" RGB would be imperceptible so let's assume that.

I haven't looked for switches in some time. Holy hell, it's worse than ever now. There isn't even an overpriced community component switcher these days? I remember there being a scart one.

edit: Missed some posts, 8 inputs in, 2 out is actually pretty solid. It does look huge but how else would all the inputs fit on a thing like this?
Component would be a great option if you're taking your consoles around and, say, plugging into CRTs for competitive events (guessing based on Smash avatar). I wouldn't want to lug around SCART equipment and RGB converters and all that.

HD Retrovision cables will look great if they cover all the consoles you'll use, and gcompsw will work great if you're fine with the price and footprint. I wouldn't worry about the colorspace conversions, it's the kind of thing you'd stare at two images side-by-side to notice, if there's any loss at all.
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Smashbro29
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Smashbro29 »

bobrocks95 wrote:
Smashbro29 wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
I guess you could pass RGsB over custom component cables with some method of sync combining, but I figured you'd be getting HD Retrovision cables, which are going to convert the console signal to YPbPr, then I believe something like an OSSC is going to process the signal in 4:4:4 RGB and output it to your display like that. Unless I'm misunderstanding something about the cables you're going to use.

I'm sure there are decent component switch options, but auto-switching is a game-changer when you've got 8+ systems hooked up and just want to turn something on and play it. A Pelican switch I had added a ton of noise, and like I said the Audio Authority (fancy brand for professional installs like churches/schools) one screwed up the output.
So real talk, I don't know what I'm talking about. I saw people using component cables instead of scart, scart has always been touchy for me and too delicate for when I take my setup out to events/friends + with component I can have all my stuff use one connector, so when I saw people talking about component cables it sounded amazing and I want that. Maybe it was HD retrovision? You seem to imply that'd be both simple and the difference compared to "pure" RGB would be imperceptible so let's assume that.

I haven't looked for switches in some time. Holy hell, it's worse than ever now. There isn't even an overpriced community component switcher these days? I remember there being a scart one.

edit: Missed some posts, 8 inputs in, 2 out is actually pretty solid. It does look huge but how else would all the inputs fit on a thing like this?
Component would be a great option if you're taking your consoles around and, say, plugging into CRTs for competitive events (guessing based on Smash avatar). I wouldn't want to lug around SCART equipment and RGB converters and all that.

HD Retrovision cables will look great if they cover all the consoles you'll use, and gcompsw will work great if you're fine with the price and footprint. I wouldn't worry about the colorspace conversions, it's the kind of thing you'd stare at two images side-by-side to notice, if there's any loss at all.
Any comparison shots for RGB vs HD retrovision? You got me curious.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

I wanted to ask about TTL sync vs normal sync, how to convert TTL sync into normal one? My method is adding a 330 or so resistor in series with Csync signal. I am asking this since I am designing a circuit which uses LMH1980 to output H,V, and Csync then pick between this Csync and VGA XNORed Csync for final Csync output which is injected into the Y line of YPbPr. here is how I connect them.

to my knowledge LMH1980 outputs TTL sync as well as XNOR ICs... therefore I must convert it to normal levels.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

VEGETA wrote: to my knowledge LMH1980 outputs TTL sync as well as XNOR ICs... therefore I must convert it to normal levels.
This chip is designed to interface with embedded LCD screens and such and outputs sync in CMOS logic. You are better off using a different chip that gives you regular sync IMO.

It's not impossible to translate the CMOS back to analog sync, but it's adding gobs of unnecessary complexity to your circuit. I would bet you can even find a TI chip that will do just that, but it's kinda nutty to do it. Sorry, can't help more than that.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

TTL is normal‼ Video level is stupid and terrible‼
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Maka8295 »

Just curious, but would a PVM 14L5 look identical to a PVM 14M4 in 240p? They both have 800 tvl but im curious if the higher resolutions available on the 14L5 would change how they look.
Thanks :)
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by FinalBaton »

Maka8295 wrote:Just curious, but would a PVM 14L5 look identical to a PVM 14M4 in 240p? They both have 800 tvl but im curious if the higher resolutions available on the 14L5 would change how they look.
Thanks :)
I had a 20M4U and a 20L5 here at the same time.

They looked very close for 240p but the colours of the 20L5 were just a little bit more accurate.

Fun fact : the M4 and L5 use the same tube.
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Maka8295
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Maka8295 »

FinalBaton wrote:
Maka8295 wrote:Just curious, but would a PVM 14L5 look identical to a PVM 14M4 in 240p? They both have 800 tvl but im curious if the higher resolutions available on the 14L5 would change how they look.
Thanks :)
I had a 20M4U and a 20L5 here at the same time.

They looked very close for 240p but the colours of the 20L5 were just a little bit more accurate.

Fun fact : the M4 and L5 use the same tube.
Thank you very much! :) I found a 14L5 for sale close by, and I've only ever seen a 14M4 in person.
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VEGETA
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by VEGETA »

vol.2 wrote:
VEGETA wrote: to my knowledge LMH1980 outputs TTL sync as well as XNOR ICs... therefore I must convert it to normal levels.
This chip is designed to interface with embedded LCD screens and such and outputs sync in CMOS logic. You are better off using a different chip that gives you regular sync IMO.

It's not impossible to translate the CMOS back to analog sync, but it's adding gobs of unnecessary complexity to your circuit. I would bet you can even find a TI chip that will do just that, but it's kinda nutty to do it. Sorry, can't help more than that.

I saw this IC as the best and most modern from TI, a direct replacement of 1881.

All I want is a Csync which works perfectly fine with YPbPr circuit + AD725 IC since I am building an RGB\RGBHV to composite, s-vide, and component transcoder.

LMH1980 low logic is a maximum of 0.5v while high logic is minimum of 4.5v (5v input supply), is connecting a 324R resistor in series with final csync as shown above ok to attenuate it?

the main function of this device is to safely convert these signals to be used with stuff like TVs, monitors, OSSC, and similar devices which accepts YPbPr, s-video, and composite.
TTL is normal‼ Video level is stupid and terrible‼
well, many people keep posting that this level destroys their scart and video equipment. I am well aware of dangers of higher voltage than rated but if current is so low then danger should be minimized... but I didn't test it on these type of equipment, so I cannot decide.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by RottenToTheGore »

Just want to bump this up.
RottenToTheGore wrote:Going to try my hand at making a console to HD15 cable soon, have a 5 conductor cable, each individually shielded. Only need 4 of them in this case. This is just for video, as audio will be a separate wire.

Pins 1 2 and 3 are for RGB, with ground for each going to 6, 7 and 8.
Pin 13 is H-Sync, and Pin 5 is H-Sync ground, simple there.

But I've seen some diagrams with multiple ground pins connected to each other, is that something that always needs to be done? On the console end all of the ground signals would go to one ground pin.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

VEGETA wrote: well, many people keep posting that this level destroys their scart and video equipment. I am well aware of dangers of higher voltage than rated but if current is so low then danger should be minimized... but I didn't test it on these type of equipment, so I cannot decide.
then their equipment is WEAK and BAD and you should FINAL FLASH it
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vol.2
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

VEGETA wrote: well, many people keep posting that this level destroys their scart and video equipment. I am well aware of dangers of higher voltage than rated but if current is so low then danger should be minimized... but I didn't test it on these type of equipment, so I cannot decide.
For sync, the level is much less of an issue because it's not going to change the brightness value or anything. For example, the Extron RGB units output TTL level sync, and that seems to fine for most equipment.

When you posted your question, I was just answering it without really thinking about what you were trying to do, but Max is totally right, it should be fine.

For reference: https://www.extron.com/product/rgb203rxi
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