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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2021 5:03 am 


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fernan1234 wrote:
mbstone wrote:
My CRT is RGB modded with a VGA connector input (with pinouts to RGB and csync). I have a NESRGB with SNES multiout A/V connector output. I don't have a multiout to vga cable. Does such a cable exist? If not, what do you recommend for a DIY solution? Should I mod a multiout to SCART cable or a VGA cable?


Retro-Access can make one for you.

If you buy SCART-VGA cables, pay attention to the direction, a SCART to VGA cable is not the same as a VGA to SCART cable.


I agree that Retro Access would be the way to go because of their quality but I would like to know what you mean by the “same direction”?

The cable is the same with a coupler just a different gender.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2021 9:39 am 


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SCART cables are crosswired on a few of the pins: audio L/R and most importantly sync/CVBS. Pin 19 on one side is connected to pin 20 on the other.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2021 12:04 pm 



Joined: 19 Mar 2017
Posts: 518
mbstone wrote:
Does such a cable exist?


This may interest you

https://www.tindie.com/products/chipnet ... o-adapter/


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2021 7:54 pm 



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Posts: 10
strayan wrote:
mbstone wrote:
Does such a cable exist?


This may interest you

https://www.tindie.com/products/chipnet ... o-adapter/


This interests me a great deal, but the price does not. I've already spent hundreds of dollars on the NESRGB, paid someone to RGB mod my CRT and hoping to not break the bank one last time.

I'd rather not do a coupler because the cabling will be getting clunky. The Goobay adapter cable looks promising, just need to buy SNES multiout connector and replace the SCART with that. Great suggestions with retro access. I missed the boat on their last order.

Could I make my own DIY cable? Say, I find a SCART or VGA cable, could I not modify one end or the other for the connector I need and do that?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2021 8:07 pm 


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If you're in the continental US I can make you a multi out to VGA dongle for $25 shipped


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2021 11:04 pm 



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
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maxtherabbit wrote:
If you're in the continental US I can make you a multi out to VGA dongle for $25 shipped


Would you consider shipping to Canada? I'm literally less than an hour north of the Montana I-15 border.

So multi out to VGA + L/R audio cable? Sort of like RetroAccess' multi out to BNC + L/R audio cable?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 2:12 am 


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mbstone wrote:
maxtherabbit wrote:
If you're in the continental US I can make you a multi out to VGA dongle for $25 shipped


Would you consider shipping to Canada? I'm literally less than an hour north of the Montana I-15 border.

So multi out to VGA + L/R audio cable? Sort of like RetroAccess' multi out to BNC + L/R audio cable?

Sorry but it's just not worth the hassle to ship internationally at that price point

It's not a cable btw it's just a dongle with a DE-15 and 3.5mm audio jack


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 2:44 am 



Joined: 22 Mar 2020
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maxtherabbit wrote:
mbstone wrote:
maxtherabbit wrote:
If you're in the continental US I can make you a multi out to VGA dongle for $25 shipped


Would you consider shipping to Canada? I'm literally less than an hour north of the Montana I-15 border.

So multi out to VGA + L/R audio cable? Sort of like RetroAccess' multi out to BNC + L/R audio cable?

Sorry but it's just not worth the hassle to ship internationally at that price point

It's not a cable btw it's just a dongle with a DE-15 and 3.5mm audio jack


No problem, I understand #CanadianProblems

I think my work has one, and that should be a pretty elegant cable solution, just need to cut one end and put on a SNES multi out plug on the other.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 7:06 am 


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maxtherabbit wrote:
It first came on the scene with PC video cards that had DVI support. They would scale the output to the native resolution of the LCD panel as per its EDID. However this was done in the TMDS transmitter chip IIRC not the GPU

The first of these cards were indeed contemporary with the original xbox, so it's possible the feature made it over, but I seriously doubt it


https://makemhz.com/blogs/news/makemhz- ... xhd-update

"A lot has changed since then. This solution is no longer limited to 1:1 video output and instead is leveraging the built-in video output scaler of the Nvidia NV2A to act as our own polyphase scaler."

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEES!


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 2:36 pm 


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TrantaLocked_ wrote:
maxtherabbit wrote:
It first came on the scene with PC video cards that had DVI support. They would scale the output to the native resolution of the LCD panel as per its EDID. However this was done in the TMDS transmitter chip IIRC not the GPU

The first of these cards were indeed contemporary with the original xbox, so it's possible the feature made it over, but I seriously doubt it


https://makemhz.com/blogs/news/makemhz- ... xhd-update

"A lot has changed since then. This solution is no longer limited to 1:1 video output and instead is leveraging the built-in video output scaler of the Nvidia NV2A to act as our own polyphase scaler."

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEES!

well hot damn


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 4:05 pm 



Joined: 10 Jul 2010
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Going to try my hand at making a console to HD15 cable soon, have a 5 conductor cable, each individually shielded. Only need 4 of them in this case. This is just for video, as audio will be a separate wire.

Pins 1 2 and 3 are for RGB, with ground for each going to 6, 7 and 8.
Pin 13 is H-Sync, and Pin 5 is H-Sync ground, simple there.

But I've seen some diagrams with multiple ground pins connected to each other, is that something that always needs to be done? On the console end all of the ground signals would go to one ground pin.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 6:47 pm 


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Could I do a full quality RGB upscaling setup without SCART? Do I lose anything going all in on component cables? I recall framemesiter processed component worse or different but the new options seem to do it just fine.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 8:20 pm 


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Smashbro29 wrote:
Could I do a full quality RGB upscaling setup without SCART? Do I lose anything going all in on component cables? I recall framemesiter processed component worse or different but the new options seem to do it just fine.


Theoretically you might be losing detail going from RGB to component then back to RGB, but in practice it's probably not going to do much if anything. I'd be more concerned about switches, as I never found a good one for component. Even an Audio Authority one I had couldn't auto switch and made the output sync levels too hot so that white screens would lose picture on the display.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 9:33 pm 



Joined: 19 Jul 2017
Posts: 1972
vol.2 wrote:
Fudoh wrote:
Can somebody give me an idea which tools to use to transfer a PS1 save game from an original memory card and convert it into a file which I can use with retroarch?

I have the original hardware on hand as well as a PS3 mem card reader and a PS1 mem card pro (using micro sd cards).


The way I do it is to use a PS2 loaded with FMCB and transfer the savegame files from the memory card directly to a usb stick. The stick has to be FAT32.

The savegame files have different filename structures for different games, but they are pretty similar to each other and often have a code like "BASLUS" in them followed by a string.

There are also various memory card management frontends for PSX/2 savegames with editors you can find online, but I've never used any of those. I just keep everything on a stick. It's very important to backup those saves if you care about them. I've had at least 3 PS1 memory cards fail on me, and it's not hard to pooch the data if you are going between a PS1 and PS2.

I haven't yet tried it myself, but this memory card utility (scroll down a little) advertises compatibility with the PS3 Memory Card adapter, and is bundled with a driver. It can read and write directly to PS1 cards.

Unfortunately, I've as of yet been unable to find a similar utility for PS2 cards, nor the ideal single utility that could handle both types.

vol.2 wrote:
Trying to use a PS3, I'm not famailar with as I've never owned one.

A PS3 wouldn't be involved; the mentioned PS3 Memory Card Adapter is a PS1/PS2 memory card to USB adapter. It was intended for importing and exporting PS1 and PS2 game saves between physical cards and the internal virtual memory cards.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 10:06 pm 


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especially with the mem card pro I think the transfer itself is the smallest problem. I was hoping for some advice on how to convert a save game from a memory card into a save file that I can use on retroarch.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 10:23 pm 


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Fudoh wrote:
especially with the mem card pro I think the transfer itself is the smallest problem. I was hoping for some advice on how to convert a save game from a memory card into a save file that I can use on retroarch.


This will do that...

https://github.com/ShendoXT/memcardrex

You will have to save as *.mcr and then rename the file to *.srm afterwards. Then just drop it in the "saves" folder in Retroarch.

Or maybe not actually. I think he might have added .srm as a save-as option.

Check this guide for details: https://docs.goldenxp.com/using-your-ps ... retroarch/


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 10:26 pm 


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Question about a dual padhack into a stick.

I have an old Hori PS2 stick, I removed the PS2 board a long time ago and put in a PCB from a Dualshock 3. I want to add back in the Hori board for PS1/2 compatibility.

I have a plan to deal with the lack of common ground on the Dualshock 3, but what about voltage?

I read it's important to always have both PCB's powered (though I'm not sure why). Problem is, I know the Dualshock 3 is 5v, but the Hori is 3.3v.

Will there be a problem if the Hori gets 5v, or DS3 gets 3.3v?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 10:32 pm 


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BazookaBen wrote:
Will there be a problem if the Hori gets 5v, or DS3 gets 3.3v?


DS3 is designed to run off a 3.7VDC lipo battery, so it might be okay on 3.3, but it will suck power. It has a VR inside that can handle 5VDC when it's connected (and probably a bit more).

Both of them have a voltage regulator, so you would need to check that out and see what the system they designed can handle.

The Hori is less likely to be okay on 5V, but you could step it down np.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 11:36 pm 


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What would happen if I just didn't connect the Vcc to both, but only to their respective PCB's? Phantom or dropped inputs?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 11:51 pm 


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BazookaBen wrote:
What would happen if I just didn't connect the Vcc to both, but only to their respective PCB's? Phantom or dropped inputs?



I think I misunderstood what you are asking. I thought you wanted to switch the boards back, but now I think maybe you want both in there at the same time. Which is it?


IAC, if you want both in there, I would assume you are leaving both connectors to hook up to each system and just wiring the buttons to both. I don't think it's an issue to do that as long as you don't have both plugged in at the same time.

If you were worried, and wanted to be safe, I supposed you could try using an AND Gate for the buttons by hooking up one side of each gate to the power input rail from the connector. That way the gate for the button will only open if the connector is plugged into it's system. TI makes lots of super cheap gates with 4 inputs each, you could probably do it with 8 of them.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 12:51 am 


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I want both at the same time. The original Hori PS1/2 board, and the Dualshock 3

The reason I'm confused is that a lot of multi-pcb tutorials, like on Shoryuken, say you need to have the both Vcc's going to both boards, but they don't really say why. The tutorial at the bottom of this page says you'll get "weird behavior" if you don't: https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html

And that AND gate idea is pretty neat. It might even be a good solution for the multiple ground issue on the Dualshock 3. Could feed the four different groups of grounds through the and gate, only have them connected when 5V from usb is present.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 1:03 am 



Joined: 01 Feb 2016
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BazookaBen wrote:
What would happen if I just didn't connect the Vcc to both, but only to their respective PCB's? Phantom or dropped inputs?


The one time I tried doing 2 padhacks at once in a stick, it was with NES and PCE pads. The PCE one worked fine, but the NES one wouldn't work at all with Vcc connected. And after disconnecting Vcc, I got random phantom Start button inputs on certain games (not sure why not on others).

So I just started leaving the pad outside the stick and connecting only one at a time, don't have to worry about Vcc that way. Lets me easily add pads for other systems.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 1:18 am 



Joined: 12 Jun 2021
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Google seems to be failing me, but is there a way to change or mod the autofire rate on an HRAP 4? The default rate feels like 10hz and I'd like to bump it all the way up to 30hz.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 2:58 am 


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bobrocks95 wrote:
Smashbro29 wrote:
Could I do a full quality RGB upscaling setup without SCART? Do I lose anything going all in on component cables? I recall framemesiter processed component worse or different but the new options seem to do it just fine.


Theoretically you might be losing detail going from RGB to component then back to RGB, but in practice it's probably not going to do much if anything. I'd be more concerned about switches, as I never found a good one for component. Even an Audio Authority one I had couldn't auto switch and made the output sync levels too hot so that white screens would lose picture on the display.

Why would it go back to RGB? I was thinking I could just replace all my scart cables with component connections.

I had a decent monoprice switch that worked out great for my gc/ps2/xbox, does rgb make them different or something? I'm gonna apologize ahead of time, I was never too great on this to begin with and now I'm really rusty on top of it.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 3:18 am 


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BazookaBen wrote:
The reason I'm confused is that a lot of multi-pcb tutorials, like on Shoryuken, say you need to have the both Vcc's going to both boards, but they don't really say why.


I don't blame you. That's a confusing page; like it was google translated with beta software from an obscure language. But more than that it doesn't really tell you much other than to explain what to do, not why.


In terms of connecting the switches together, the only reason (I can think of) it would be an issue is if (when you press a button) one board pulls the other one high or low when you want it to be going the other way.
If that happens, I think the &gates should be able to solve that, as you will be isolating the switch connections with logic. You could use relays instead, but I think it would be more expensive and cumbersome.

I haven't done this operation before, but I would be very hesitant to gang together the two Vccs; I would expect that to cause issues.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 3:28 am 


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Smashbro29 wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
Smashbro29 wrote:
Could I do a full quality RGB upscaling setup without SCART? Do I lose anything going all in on component cables? I recall framemesiter processed component worse or different but the new options seem to do it just fine.


Theoretically you might be losing detail going from RGB to component then back to RGB, but in practice it's probably not going to do much if anything. I'd be more concerned about switches, as I never found a good one for component. Even an Audio Authority one I had couldn't auto switch and made the output sync levels too hot so that white screens would lose picture on the display.

Why would it go back to RGB? I was thinking I could just replace all my scart cables with component connections.

I had a decent monoprice switch that worked out great for my gc/ps2/xbox, does rgb make them different or something? I'm gonna apologize ahead of time, I was never too great on this to begin with and now I'm really rusty on top of it.


I guess you could pass RGsB over custom component cables with some method of sync combining, but I figured you'd be getting HD Retrovision cables, which are going to convert the console signal to YPbPr, then I believe something like an OSSC is going to process the signal in 4:4:4 RGB and output it to your display like that. Unless I'm misunderstanding something about the cables you're going to use.

I'm sure there are decent component switch options, but auto-switching is a game-changer when you've got 8+ systems hooked up and just want to turn something on and play it. A Pelican switch I had added a ton of noise, and like I said the Audio Authority (fancy brand for professional installs like churches/schools) one screwed up the output.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 4:28 am 


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gcompsw has auto-switching, multiple outputs, and can be daisy-chained, just like gscartsw can. The difference is that there is no need for any dip switches on the gcompsw because there's no sync shenanigans with component ;)


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 5:23 am 


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Guspaz wrote:
gcompsw has auto-switching, multiple outputs, and can be daisy-chained, just like gscartsw can. The difference is that there is no need for any dip switches on the gcompsw because there's no sync shenanigans with component ;)


I mean it's also $240 and has an inconvenient vertical footprint that looks like you have to set it on the top of whatever media furniture you're using...


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:21 pm 


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It's probably a smaller footprint than the ones that put all the plugs on the back.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:43 pm 


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A smaller vertical footprint? Almost every setup I see online just has it sitting on top of something. A few bolted to the back of some media furniture that now can't sit close to a wall. Maybe it can hide behind a flat panel well enough but it's wasting a ton of space on a shelf.


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