Questions that do not deserve a thread

The place for all discussion on gaming hardware
Freedy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2019 8:56 am

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Freedy »

Hi,

I am wondering if it is possible to install an SNES borti supercic + uIGR + Dual Oscillator (the older superCIC board without the de-itter mod) board that is meant to installed in a 1-chip system into a 3-chip system?
The simple reason I am asking, I don't have a board that is for the 3-chip system, only the DFO version for the 1-chip model.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Freedy wrote:Hi,

I am wondering if it is possible to install an SNES borti supercic + uIGR + Dual Oscillator (the older superCIC board without the de-itter mod) board that is meant to installed in a 1-chip system into a 3-chip system?
The simple reason I am asking, I don't have a board that is for the 3-chip system, only the DFO version for the 1-chip model.
Nope. https://github.com/borti4938/SNES_RGB_Bypass
User avatar
Jasonbartfast
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2021 1:04 pm
Location: Montreal

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Jasonbartfast »

I'm looking for recommendations for wired PC pads (Bluetooth is ok if you can also use the pad over a wired connection). Not having much luck searching the forums here.

For a little context, I already have a HRAP IV (modded with a Sanwa JLF), but I do sometimes want an analog stick. I have some wireless 360 controllers but they are aging and laggy (I live in an apartment building and there's tons of wireless interference).

I'm considering the Razer Wolverine but it is $$$, also looking at the 8Bitdo SN30 for a cheaper alternative.

Any input / links appreciated!
Last edited by Jasonbartfast on Fri Apr 16, 2021 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Maybe I'm wrong, but I think most people use Xbox One controllers. They can connect to a PC via a mini USB to USB A cable.
User avatar
Jasonbartfast
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2021 1:04 pm
Location: Montreal

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Jasonbartfast »

vol.2 wrote:Maybe I'm wrong, but I think most people use Xbox One controllers. They can connect to a PC via a mini USB to USB A cable.
Ok cool, for some reason I didn't think they could. That would be a nice solution.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Jasonbartfast wrote:
vol.2 wrote:Maybe I'm wrong, but I think most people use Xbox One controllers. They can connect to a PC via a mini USB to USB A cable.
Ok cool, for some reason I didn't think they could. That would be a nice solution.
AFAIK, they can. Take a look at the product page: https://www.xbox.com/en-us/accessories/ ... ller-usb-c

"Connectivity Connect to Xbox consoles with Xbox Wireless, or using the included 9’ USB-C cable."


I never tried it because I like using the wireless. Maybe there is some lag, but I don't really care for anything I would be using that controller for.
User avatar
bobrocks95
Posts: 3462
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:27 am
Location: Kentucky

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

The newer Xbox One controllers added I think Bluetooth, but all versions can use a wired connection?

I had a Razer Xbox controller once (Onza I think?) and it was worse than any Mad Katz or other third party controller I've ever owned. RB stopped working completely, the left thumbstick grip disintegrated, there was this mechanism to change how tight the thumbsticks were that would cause the sticks to randomly lock up and get 10x stiffer until you moved them around several times... Never buying another controller from them again.

A third party controller I did enjoy using lately was the Power A Fusion Pro. Wired only and the D-Pad was pretty mushy, but build quality felt like OEM and the back paddles were very nice. That's the main draw though, so if you don't think you'll use them then stick with OEM. I ended up returning it because Xbox One triggers hurt my fingers, both OEM and the Power A.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
Dochartaigh
Posts: 1520
Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:53 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Dochartaigh »

I thought I read that on XBO controllers there was MORE lag (don't ask me how but it was a pretty scientific test) on the wired connection vs. wireless...

Also never, ever, buy the super pricy Xbox Elite controllers. I gave up after two in a row had issues, then googled it a ton and like nearly everybody and their mother has issues with them do for some reason.

Myself for computer use (which is more like Raspberry Pi 4 / RetroPie use) I use Xbox 360 wireless adapters with minty Xbox 360 TRANSFORMING wireless controllers - those have a D-Pad which I like quite a bit and were the last type made I believe. Also can use WIRELESS fightsticks on that same wireless adapter, and I like those a lot (not as good as my Sanwa/Seitmitsu's but very nice... actually modding one now with Sanwa parts).
User avatar
orange808
Posts: 3196
Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2016 5:43 am

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by orange808 »

A Sony DS4 and DS4Windows is a fairly easy solution with low polling time; that's what I use. I also appreciate the DS4 build quality. Although, I'm sure someone will chime in with horror stories and tell you DS4 suckzzzzzzz. YMMV. The DS4 has more latency wired, so 2.4 band interference might be a deal breaker.

PC input lag is a complicated rabbit hole and there's hundreds of different stories and experiences out there. Good luck.
We apologise for the inconvenience
User avatar
bobrocks95
Posts: 3462
Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:27 am
Location: Kentucky

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by bobrocks95 »

I mean I don't really like the DS4 if that counts, but at least it's 10x better than the DS3 :P

Never been bothered by input lag on native PC games on a fast display. I use bluetooth myself, so I'm sure lag is up there if I actually measured it.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
RetroNoob54
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Apr 17, 2021 12:40 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by RetroNoob54 »

Hello, new here
Last edited by RetroNoob54 on Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
nmalinoski
Posts: 1974
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:52 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

orange808 wrote:A Sony DS4 and DS4Windows is a fairly easy solution with low polling time; that's what I use.
I've been using a mix of a DS4 via Bluetooth (without DS4Windows; support for it in Steam has been good; I can play Spyro Reignited with the correct button glyphs) and Xbox 360 controllers with the Wireless Receiver for Windows peripheral.
Freedy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Jul 31, 2019 8:56 am

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Freedy »

vol.2 wrote:
Freedy wrote:Hi,

I am wondering if it is possible to install an SNES borti supercic + uIGR + Dual Oscillator (the older superCIC board without the de-itter mod) board that is meant to installed in a 1-chip system into a 3-chip system?
The simple reason I am asking, I don't have a board that is for the 3-chip system, only the DFO version for the 1-chip model.
Nope. https://github.com/borti4938/SNES_RGB_Bypass
Thank you, but my question was about the multiregion supercic board, not about RGB bypass.

(According to the description you linked, the bypass board meant for the 1-chip motherboard is also compatible with 3chip boards. )
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Freedy wrote:
(According to the description you linked, the bypass board meant for the 1-chip motherboard is also compatible with 3chip boards. )
Ah well. Sorry for not reading your question carefully, and glad you figured it out.
User avatar
orange808
Posts: 3196
Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2016 5:43 am

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by orange808 »

nmalinoski wrote:
orange808 wrote:A Sony DS4 and DS4Windows is a fairly easy solution with low polling time; that's what I use.
I've been using a mix of a DS4 via Bluetooth (without DS4Windows; support for it in Steam has been good; I can play Spyro Reignited with the correct button glyphs) and Xbox 360 controllers with the Wireless Receiver for Windows peripheral.
I don't think the DS4 will default to 1ms polling directly in Steam--although I admit I dismissed and abandoned Steam's controller support thing long ago. Maybe they care now; I don't know for sure (but I seriously doubt it).

I know DS4Windows delivers decent polling time over bluetooth. Latency varies on my rig a little, but consistently low.

To be honest, I haven't purchased many third party knockoff controllers that are genuinely good. I know some good ones exist, but they are rare. I prefer good first party controllers from console manufacturers. Almost every third party thing I've ever bought had at least one button mysteriously stop working one day--with low hours of usage. I've gotten so gunshy and jaded, I just roll my eyes when one of these knockoff companies announces another "look alike" controller thing. I've been burned one too many times.

Another favorite of mine is a good ol' official Nintendo SNES game pad with a Raphnet adapter. Those SNES controllers with a Raphnet have snappy overall response and the controllers have wonderful build quality. The dpad doesn't require too much travel, the plastic isn't too hard or sharp, and the diagonals feel natural. N64 controllers also feel good using the dpad, but I think they are a little slower; it doesn't make much difference. Genny six button pads are also decent, they have a unique feel to them--and they feel easy on my thumb.
We apologise for the inconvenience
User avatar
Jasonbartfast
Posts: 23
Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2021 1:04 pm
Location: Montreal

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Jasonbartfast »

Thanks for the input everyone! I ended-up getting the Xbone wired controller and I've been pretty happy with it. I do notice that the responsiveness is a tad better than the wireless 360 controllers. As I mentioned, there is a ton of wireless interference in my apartment - my wifi is AC1750 and I'm lucky to get a 300mbps connection. (When I first moved-in I had a wireless N router and Netflix was unwatchable.)

I'm something of a newb - I've been really into shmups for the past ~6 months after a 10 year hiatus (I was playing a ton of RSG back then, and Ikaruga before that). I'm working on 1CC-ing ZeroRanger (almost there; I can get to Despair without continuing and I've beaten her without taking a hit while practicing), but I've trained myself using the analog stick. I tried playing it on my arcade stick and only being able to move in 8 directions felt constraining, as I've gotten used to moving in tight arcs and loops. Maybe it would ultimately be better to re-learn using analog input, but I'm so close to my goal that I don't want to start re-training my muscle memory now. But I've also been playing some Eschatos on the side with my arcade stick and enjoying the hell out of it.

Anyway, I do appreciate everyone's input!
pedroTFP
Posts: 38
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2018 2:35 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by pedroTFP »

vol.2 wrote:
pedroTFP wrote:Thanks, I'll look at it and let you known! Assuming it is good condition, my concerns were about 2530's lower TVL count and that the set would look too much like a consumer 25" RGB Trinitron set from mid 90's, hence not worth the trade.
Pay attention to how bright the set is mostly. Try to turn up the contrast (the contrast knob is the brightness on a CRT) and see how much range it has. It should have plenty of upward headroom, and it shouldn't seem excessively blown-out at higher contrast levels. There will always be some bloom, but there's a difference between a strong tube and a weak one in that regard. Also, look at how focused the tube is. That's adjustable, but there's going to be a limit to how much you can improve it.
Ok, I did it and I'm super happy for the big screen (also, I mistyped: it's a 2730QM). Tube looks great, thanks for the info! Now I'll look for a RM-688 on eBay.
Speaking of remotes: is there a way to connect a remote with PVM L\M series in order to not always use the button on the front to turn off\on? It gives me the feel it wears old the monitor.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

pedroTFP wrote:is there a way to connect a remote with PVM L\M series in order to not always use the button on the front to turn off\on?
I can't help with remote control questions on those. No experience there. Hopefully someone else can help you.

Glad you were able to dial-in your set.
ajdesmarais
Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2016 5:51 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by ajdesmarais »

Well I think I finally killed my PVM. I almost fixed it, but every time I opened it back up I made it worse. Now my picture has collapsed entirely into a little dot. Is it possible I just missed plugging something back in right, or did I finally kill the bitch?

I appreciate all the help I've gotten here, without it I wouldn't have gotten as close as I did.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

ajdesmarais wrote:Is it possible I just missed plugging something back in right, or did I finally kill the bitch?
Anything is possible. Only was to find out is to go through it and check carefully. This is where all the step-by-step exhaustive photo documentation you did of the whole process comes in super handy. You did photograph everything you undid before you undid it, right?

Failing that, you'll have to lean on your service manual to check all the connectors and make sure everything is where it ought to be.

If everything is hooked up right, you might be looking at blown output transistors. There is usually an larger IC for the VERT that incorporates a few functions, and then a big ol HOR transistor. The verticals of many a set are very sensitive to the capacitors attached to them. I would pull and check every single cap that touches the VERT IC before attempting to replace the IC and turn it on again. The HOR often has large film caps instead of electrolytics that are less likely to go bad, but if you see an electrolytics in the HOR, check those too.

Of course, you could do all that and it still might not work. It can be a tricky rabbit hole.
Guile
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:11 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

I was looking at this odd switcher with line doubler, the Extron System 4 ldxi. https://www.extron.com/product/sys4ldxi

It looks like it only takes and outputs various rgb formats so if I only have component I need some kind of transcoder to use it?

I'm surprised it has no support for component video.
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 723
Joined: Sun May 25, 2014 8:12 pm
Contact:

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Unseen »

Guile wrote:It looks like it only takes and outputs various rgb formats so if I only have component I need some kind of transcoder to use it?
The specs claim that it can also accept S-Video and composite, but they are not listed as possible output formats. That and the "line-doubled video" in the output section seem to indicate that this box is more than just a simple switcher. If it does have a mode where it just passes signals through without any processing, there is a chance that it will work with component video anyway by feeding luma on G and the two color difference signals on R and B.
I'm surprised it has no support for component video.
As far as I know Extron started with building solutions for processing PC video signals, so it would not be that surprising if their older gear is only specified for RGB and not component.
Guile
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:11 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

Unseen wrote:
Guile wrote:It looks like it only takes and outputs various rgb formats so if I only have component I need some kind of transcoder to use it?
The specs claim that it can also accept S-Video and composite, but they are not listed as possible output formats. That and the "line-doubled video" in the output section seem to indicate that this box is more than just a simple switcher. If it does have a mode where it just passes signals through without any processing, there is a chance that it will work with component video anyway by feeding luma on G and the two color difference signals on R and B.
I'm surprised it has no support for component video.
As far as I know Extron started with building solutions for processing PC video signals, so it would not be that surprising if their older gear is only specified for RGB and not component.
I'm interested to see how the line doubling works in this device. It's really crazy how hard it is to find a good ypbpr to rgbhv transcoder now. It looks promising to try svideo or composite at least as a test and output rgbhv as vga. It might be similar to a dvdo iscan plus in that way.

I wonder if I just connect ypbpr to the rgb if it would work or get a green picture. Ideally I wanted to see how it doubles 480i component.

I found the manual and it looks like it does have a pass-through mode. I'm more interested in the line doubling but it might make a good switch too.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Guile wrote:It's really crazy how hard it is to find a good ypbpr to rgbhv transcoder now.
You can always use this https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/comp2rgb and then processes the csync to H and V with a sync processor if you are using a PC monitor and you have to.

I wonder if I just connect ypbpr to the rgb if it would work
no. incompatible. component video encodes the signal to reduce the number of wires. You would have to use two of the colors (I'd use Blue and Red) and then put the Y cable (the one that is green in the component bundle) into the S hole on the Extron. That is going to have to function as sync in this case. I don't think anyone is sure this will work until you try it.
nmalinoski
Posts: 1974
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:52 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by nmalinoski »

vol.2 wrote:component video encodes the signal to reduce the number of wires.
I would've agreed with that if I didn't know that RGsB was a thing; if reduction of wires was the goal, RGsB accomplishes the same thing without needing to be decoded, and operates within the same electrical specification.

Now I'm wondering what even is the point of YPbPr if RGsB has the same capabilities. (I guess chroma subsampling for storage of video, such as for DVDs; which I can see as something that contributed to YPbPr adoption in North America over RGB.)
Last edited by nmalinoski on Fri Apr 23, 2021 4:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Guile
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:11 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

vol.2 wrote:
Guile wrote:It's really crazy how hard it is to find a good ypbpr to rgbhv transcoder now.
You can always use this https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/comp2rgb and then processes the csync to H and V with a sync processor if you are using a PC monitor and you have to.

I wonder if I just connect ypbpr to the rgb if it would work
no. incompatible. component video encodes the signal to reduce the number of wires. You would have to use two of the colors (I'd use Blue and Red) and then put the Y cable (the one that is green in the component bundle) into the S hole on the Extron. That is going to have to function as sync in this case. I don't think anyone is sure this will work until you try it.
The retrotink transcoder looks nice but I'm looking for something cheaper unless I really need one.

I'll try the Y cable as sync and see if it works.

nmalinoski wrote:
Now I'm wondering what even is the point of YPbPr if RGsB has the same capabilities.
I've just started to learn about various sync formats and it really is confusing. I wonder if RGsB is easier with bnc so they created ypbpr or maybe it's cheaper to process ypbpr.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

nmalinoski wrote: Now I'm wondering what even is the point of YPbPr if RGsB has the same capabilities. (I guess chroma subsampling for storage of video, such as for DVDs; which I can see as something that contributed to YPbPr adoption in North America over RGB.)
I seem to remember something about component video being capable of higher bandwidth over longer distances, but it's been awhile.
Guile
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:11 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

The ldxi actually didn't have an S port only HV and V. I tried component for fun but I only got a black and white image when the input format was set to svideo or composite. It was definitely overly bright too.

It had surprisingly low lag and the line doubling can be turned on or off and set to motion or still mode.

On a lcd monitor it was off center even when I set the horizontal movement all the way to the left.
User avatar
vol.2
Posts: 2439
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:13 pm
Location: bmore

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by vol.2 »

Guile wrote:The ldxi actually didn't have an S port only HV and V. I tried component for fun but I only got a black and white image when the input format was set to svideo or composite. It was definitely overly bright too.
The HV is what you would put the Green cable into, it would serve the same function as an "S" output; some Extrons have an S and some don't, I think it's got to do with how old they are or something.

To test it, I would set it to RGB and just hook up the R and B to their respective colors. It wouldn't actually matter which one you do though, so long as you respect that the output will follow the input, but just using B for B and R for R will make it easier to keep track of.
Guile
Posts: 145
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:11 pm

Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread

Post by Guile »

vol.2 wrote:
Guile wrote:The ldxi actually didn't have an S port only HV and V. I tried component for fun but I only got a black and white image when the input format was set to svideo or composite. It was definitely overly bright too.
The HV is what you would put the Green cable into, it would serve the same function as an "S" output; some Extrons have an S and some don't, I think it's got to do with how old they are or something.

To test it, I would set it to RGB and just hook up the R and B to their respective colors. It wouldn't actually matter which one you do though, so long as you respect that the output will follow the input, but just using B for B and R for R will make it easier to keep track of.
I tried this and I managed to get a very green rgb output. With just R and B and G in HV I got a dim blue and red output so I connected a spare component Y to the G and got the very green output.

Interesting that it worked up to that point but I guess I do need to convert to rgb from component to really use it.
Post Reply