GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

[kitty666cats]

The blue led seems to correlate to getting a good source signal. Although (mentioned above) i had a faulty board that would have the blue led go off and simultaneously stop transmitting wifi but would otherwise continue operating normally.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Mm, I was trying a HDMI to component with a Switch (with intent to downscale 480p), I’ll have to bust out my tried n true Potta HDMI to VGA->CorioScan Pro scan converter->480i RGBS in->Tektronix Sync Combiner out and see if my troubles persist!

[Solidzera]

Somehow using the 1.0v output (for component) circuit of the GBS Control make the image on a pc CRT monitor set on 0.7v much better.
When using 0.7v output (for RGBHV) the image seems dimmer on the crt pc monitor set for 0.7v input.

[Syntax]

Does it crush whites now tho at 1.0v?

Check the last few bars of color in a 240p test suit.

[kitty666cats]

Anyone else here messed around with chaining GBSC 240p downscaled RGBS (via a DIY sync combiner, Extron interface, UMSA etc) ‘csync’ into the OSSC’s AV1 SCART input? I remember seeing NoAffinity messing around with the two devices, but forget if there was any downscaling involved. I sold my OSSC after jumping on the GBSC train early this year, but I would love to have both again!

If anyone has tried/tried after seeing this post, lemme know how it went! AV2 is applicable too I suppose, but not particularly interested in feeding the downscaled signal into OSSC AV3.

[Jon Nielsen]

So, yesterday I got bored and the result was another GBSC just for component video... I'm running out of power supplies and due to the use case I would like to just hide it behind my TV and power it with one of the USB ports there.

In case anyone has measured actual power use - or tried this - is 1A enough for the GBS 8200 board and Wemos D1? My TV has a USB port rated for 1A and two for 0.5A.

[NoAffinity]

^^yes. My testing was via av3 input. I might have also tested av2 input, dont remember for certain. Details of the testing are contained somewhere here in this thread, and I posted a video or two on youtube (might be unlisted so you would have to find the links within this thread) I was able to get the image looking pretty good after a somewhat significant amount of time messing with ossc optimization. But at the end of the day, there was no incentive to chaining as opposed to just using one device or the other unchained.

^yes 1A is enough.

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[Jon Nielsen]

^yes 1A is enough.

Thanks - works fine.

[slayrval]

The blue led seems to correlate to getting a good source signal. Although (mentioned above) i had a faulty board that would have the blue led go off and simultaneously stop transmitting wifi but would otherwise continue operating normally.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I think I have the same issue with my GBS. The blue LED goes off and connection to gbs-control drops. Picture still displays but I have to unplug component cables to restore connectivity. Mainly with PS2 and trying to set GBS to 1080p it will do it. Doesnt happen at 960p oddly enough. I have another GBS just ordered with the 'official' D1 Wemos mini ESP8266 board (if there is such a thing).

[slayrval]

Ok some new developments. I tried the Monoprice VGA to HDMI converter LKV-350 (about $15 on ebay) for output from the GBS-8200 and I have to say this is best picture yet with no perceivable video noise like before and no waviness in image! Colors looks great to but haven't got around to comparing it to OSSC yet so not sure if they are vastly improved or not. Maybe looks so good with no noise because using its own power supply? Previously I tried using the cheap vga to hdmi converter with its own power supply but couldn't get a picture outputting for some reason.

I also received a second GBS-8200 and ESP8266 module and unfortunately it has same issue with dropping wifi when switching to 1080p. However I followed Rama's notes here https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-contro ... ious-notes and switching my wifi router 2.4g to channel 6 fixed the issue and 1080p doesn't drop wifi on either GBS-8200. I really didn't think that would work but it did. Of course not the best solution but guess it will do for now until better solution is found.

[fwannmacher]

What about a 3rd deinterlace option which consists in downscaling from 480i to 240p? This way 480p and above wouldn't be downscaled and we wouldn't need to change settings based on the device plugged in.

[NoAffinity]

What about a 3rd deinterlace option which consists in downscaling from 480i to 240p? This way 480p and above wouldn't be downscaled and we wouldn't need to change settings based on the device plugged in.

I'm probably missing something in your suggestion, but 480i and 480p can both be downscaled with the downscale profile. Both can also be upscaled, with 480i being deinterlaced and upscaled.

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[fwannmacher]

I'm probably missing something in your suggestion, but 480i and 480p can both be downscaled with the downscale profile. Both can also be upscaled, with 480i being deinterlaced and upscaled.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

The point is exactly downscaling only 480i. So let's say I have a component switch with a PS1 and a GC connected and this switch is connected to GBSC. Then I can use the GBSC to downscale 480i and send the signal to second GBSC which will upscale and add scanlines to 240p signals. If is there such option of downscaling only 480i then it would downscale and apply scanlines to PS1 content and keep the 480p output form the GC only upscaled.

[NoAffinity]

Did the decoupling mod on this gbs-8220 I recently acquired. Don't really notice much difference. This gbs-8220 is probably the most noise-free of all the gbs' I've played with (only gbs-8200's prior to this gbs-8220). Nonetheless, did some quick 1080p genesis scaling:

https://youtu.be/_qRxBS9P_aM

[slayrval]

I'm probably missing something in your suggestion, but 480i and 480p can both be downscaled with the downscale profile. Both can also be upscaled, with 480i being deinterlaced and upscaled.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

The point is exactly downscaling only 480i. So let's say I have a component switch with a PS1 and a GC connected and this switch is connected to GBSC. Then I can use the GBSC to downscale 480i and send the signal to second GBSC which will upscale and add scanlines to 240p signals. If is there such option of downscaling only 480i then it would downscale and apply scanlines to PS1 content and keep the 480p output form the GC only upscaled.

Cant this be done using the profile slots in GBS control to quickly change it?

[NoAffinity]

I'm probably missing something in your suggestion, but 480i and 480p can both be downscaled with the downscale profile. Both can also be upscaled, with 480i being deinterlaced and upscaled.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

The point is exactly downscaling only 480i. So let's say I have a component switch with a PS1 and a GC connected and this switch is connected to GBSC. Then I can use the GBSC to downscale 480i and send the signal to second GBSC which will upscale and add scanlines to 240p signals. If is there such option of downscaling only 480i then it would downscale and apply scanlines to PS1 content and keep the 480p output form the GC only upscaled.

Cant this be done using the profile slots in GBS control to quickly change it?

Yeah I'm not really understanding. Everything being asked for is already there. Unless auto profile pairing based on input and source signal detection is being asked for....in which case there are much more expensive options on the market that do that.

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[fwannmacher]

Cant this be done using the profile slots in GBS control to quickly change it?

Yeah I'm not really understanding. Everything being asked for is already there. Unless auto profile pairing based on input and source signal detection is being asked for....in which case there are much more expensive options on the market that do that.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

The idea was having a solution without the need of changing settings/profiles based on what is plugged in

[Jon Nielsen]

Hello hello.

I'm trying to make a simplify my cable setup (famous last words) by making a SCART to VGA cable for use with the GBS. I've tried wiring up the usual RGB lines 15,11,7 -> 1,2,3 and for ground sync and sync 18,20 -> 5,13. To the best of my knowledge that should do it as the GBS uses HSYNC as SYNC for RGBS. However, I'm not getting it to detect any signal. I've tested that the RGB lines work by sending YPbPr to OSSC VGA input, so that's OK. What am I missing?

Cheers

[Ryoandr]

Hello hello.

I'm trying to make a simplify my cable setup (famous last words) by making a SCART to VGA cable for use with the GBS. I've tried wiring up the usual RGB lines 15,11,7 -> 1,2,3 and for ground sync and sync 18,20 -> 5,13. To the best of my knowledge that should do it as the GBS uses HSYNC as SYNC for RGBS. However, I'm not getting it to detect any signal. I've tested that the RGB lines work by sending YPbPr to OSSC VGA input, so that's OK. What am I missing?

Cheers

is your cable scart end male or female ?
If male you have to use pin 19, as video and sound are bidirectional in scart, while RGB lines are not. Also pin 17 is the video ground, but it doesn't matter too much as 18 is another ground.

[shawly]

Hi guys,

so I ordered a GBS-8220 on Ali a month ago, it arrived a few days ago but sadly, it's actually a GBS-8200 V5.1 (with the Yellow buttons).
Since I don't wanna buy another GBS-8220 and wait another month, I thought I might be able to just add the missing components and effectively convert it to a GBS-8220.

Here is an image of the board, you can see that quite a few components are missing, but the traces and pads are there so it should be possible to convert it to a GBS-8220.

Spoiler

So I wondered if anyone with a GBS-8220 could send me some measurements of the missing caps and the diode that are missing, also some info about the IC1 would be nice.
I found this high res image, which helped me identify

Spoiler

The missing components are:

R55, R56, R57 - should be 75 Ohm resistors.
C65 is probably a 22uF cap like C66, looking at some GBS-8220 confirms this guess
D2 is probably? the same diode as D1 but I'm not sure which values it has, looks like it's a silicon diode
R59, R58 should be 0 Ohm resistors.
IC1 is an ISL59833 according to another image I found, on the image above it's an ISL59830 but according to the datasheet I should get an ISL59833
R52, R53, R54 are 75 Ohm resistors on the GBS-8220 like R49, R50 and R51 but on my v5.1 those are 0 Ohm resistors so I'm not a 100% certain
R7 should be a 33 Ohm resistor
R61 is likely to be a 33 Ohm resistor as well
C68, C69, C70 and C72 are unknown, as I'm not quite sure which caps of the first output are their equivalents. If I knew I could desolder them and measure but I have no clue which ones I should desolder

The caps and the diode are quite the mystery for me. Can someone help me with this?

[kitty666cats]

I picked up the Monoprice VGA to HDMI, quite happy with it - but I’m pretty curious about this unit right here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAIX5S4/re ... SFbPYC0CJH

The Silicon chip in it has quite an interesting datasheet, reminds me a lot of the OSSC! The Sil8784, to be precise

https://www.latticesemi.com/en/About/Ne ... alogtoHDMI

A PDF of the datasheet can be found via some simple Googling, worth looking up (would link but my phone’s dying!)

[slayrval]

I picked up the Monoprice VGA to HDMI, quite happy with it - but I’m pretty curious about this unit right here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAIX5S4/re ... SFbPYC0CJH

The Silicon chip in it has quite an interesting datasheet, reminds me a lot of the OSSC! The Sil8784, to be precise

https://www.latticesemi.com/en/About/Ne ... alogtoHDMI

A PDF of the datasheet can be found via some simple Googling, worth looking up (would link but my phone’s dying!)

I would imagine the monoprice would be better quality than the one you linked however not too sure. I can't find anything at all wrong with the monoprice vga to hdmi except maybe the color not being as good as the OSSC. But that might come down to the actual GBS itself. I am actually getting less noise in on screen text with the GBS that with the OSSC. Particularly with the OG xbox 720p resolution. OSSC colors are better however.

[slayrval]

Hi guys,

so I ordered a GBS-8220 on Ali a month ago, it arrived a few days ago but sadly, it's actually a GBS-8200 V5.1 (with the Yellow buttons).
Since I don't wanna buy another GBS-8220 and wait another month, I thought I might be able to just add the missing components and effectively convert it to a GBS-8220.

Here is an image of the board, you can see that quite a few components are missing, but the traces and pads are there so it should be possible to convert it to a GBS-8220.

Spoiler

So I wondered if anyone with a GBS-8220 could send me some measurements of the missing caps and the diode that are missing, also some info about the IC1 would be nice.
I found this high res image, which helped me identify

Spoiler

The missing components are:

R55, R56, R57 - should be 750 Ohm resistors.
C65 is probably a 22uF cap like C66, looking at some GBS-8220 confirms this guess
D2 is probably? the same diode as D1 but I'm not sure which values it has, looks like it's a silicon diode
R59, R58 should be 0 Ohm resistors.
IC1 is an ISL59833 according to another image I found, on the image above it's an ISL59830 but according to the datasheet I should get an ISL59833
R52, R53, R54 are 750 Ohm resistors on the GBS-8220 like R49, R50 and R51 but on my v5.1 those are 0 Ohm resistors so I'm not a 100% certain
R7 should be a 330 Ohm resistor
R61 is likely to be a 330 Ohm resistor as well
C68, C69, C70 and C72 are unknown, as I'm not quite sure which caps of the first output are their equivalents. If I knew I could desolder them and measure but I have no clue which ones I should desolder

The caps and the diode are quite the mystery for me. Can someone help me with this?

Are you going to be using vga to hdmi converters for the output on GBS? If so you could get a cheap hdmi splitter for about $15 would be cheaper and easier

[shawly]

Are you going to be using vga to hdmi converters for the output on GBS? If so you could get a cheap hdmi splitter for about $15 would be cheaper and easier

No I am not and $15 would actually be more expensive than the necessary SMD components, for $15 I could even just order a new GBS-8220, which is exactly what I don't wanna do.

[slayrval]

Are you going to be using vga to hdmi converters for the output on GBS? If so you could get a cheap hdmi splitter for about $15 would be cheaper and easier

No I am not and $15 would actually be more expensive than the necessary SMD components, for $15 I could even just order a new GBS-8220, which is exactly what I don't wanna do.

Ah gotcha I don't have a gbs-8220 or would help ya out with components. Just mentioned it because if going vga to hdmi on both outputs you may have needed to get another vga to hdmi converter and would have been around same cost but alot more work.

[slayrval]

Got around to installing clock gen board on GBS-8200 but for some reason when I do 1080p resolution picture is really messed up purple tint and freaking out. 960p seems to work fine which is strange. Is this normal with a clock gen board not able to do 1080p resolution? Source is a playstation 2 via component cables 480i resolution. Wasnt having this issue before installing the clock gen board. Tried resetting to defaults in GBS control.

[shawly]

Hi guys,

so I ordered a GBS-8220 on Ali a month ago, it arrived a few days ago but sadly, it's actually a GBS-8200 V5.1 (with the Yellow buttons).
Since I don't wanna buy another GBS-8220 and wait another month, I thought I might be able to just add the missing components and effectively convert it to a GBS-8220.

Here is an image of the board, you can see that quite a few components are missing, but the traces and pads are there so it should be possible to convert it to a GBS-8220.

Spoiler

So I wondered if anyone with a GBS-8220 could send me some measurements of the missing caps and the diode that are missing, also some info about the IC1 would be nice.
I found this high res image, which helped me identify

Spoiler

The missing components are:

R55, R56, R57 - should be 75 Ohm resistors.
C65 is probably a 22uF cap like C66, looking at some GBS-8220 confirms this guess
D2 is probably? the same diode as D1 but I'm not sure which values it has, looks like it's a silicon diode
R59, R58 should be 0 Ohm resistors.
IC1 is an ISL59833 according to another image I found, on the image above it's an ISL59830 but according to the datasheet I should get an ISL59833
R52, R53, R54 are 75 Ohm resistors on the GBS-8220 like R49, R50 and R51 but on my v5.1 those are 0 Ohm resistors so I'm not a 100% certain
R7 should be a 33 Ohm resistor
R61 is likely to be a 33 Ohm resistor as well
C68, C69, C70 and C72 are unknown, as I'm not quite sure which caps of the first output are their equivalents. If I knew I could desolder them and measure but I have no clue which ones I should desolder

The caps and the diode are quite the mystery for me. Can someone help me with this?

Alright after looking through the datasheets of the ISL59830 and the ISL59833 I found out that the capacitors are highly likely 0.1uF caps and the diode on D1 is probably a 1N4148.
So if there is nothing speaking against these values, I'll just order the caps and the diode on Ali and try to convert my GBS-8200 V5.1 to a GBS-8220.

[slayrval]

Got around to installing clock gen board on GBS-8200 but for some reason when I do 1080p resolution picture is really messed up purple tint and freaking out. 960p seems to work fine which is strange. Is this normal with a clock gen board not able to do 1080p resolution? Source is a playstation 2 via component cables 480i resolution. Wasnt having this issue before installing the clock gen board. Tried resetting to defaults in GBS control.

So I got ride of crazy purple at 1080p. I think it was the tiny enamled magnet wire for pin 40. It had continuity but when I resoldered with a larger wire 1080p worked fine. Now having issue with playing ps1 games on the ps2. In games that resolution switch from 240p to 480i the clock gen changes the clock slightly and causes TV to resync it shows 59hz on tv in 240p and when it goes to 480i in menu it shows 60hz. Any way to stop this from happening like hard locking the clock to 60hz somehow on the clock gen board?

[kitty666cats]

I can’t, for the life of me, figure out how to get mine working again - there was a wire that popped off, re-soldered it. Changed the channel on my Wi-Fi router, still no dice. Does the red LED correlate to the WiFi board? Tried plugging micro USB directly into it and my modded board’s red LED did indeed turn on, but the blue one will still not light up / can not connect to a gbscontrol network or any of the web GUIs.

No clue what happened, as everything used to be peachy keen! Really pains me that this happened after putting in the work to make a nice enclosure ( https://www.instagram.com/p/CHMWCP7lTLV ... 5j1morhzv1 )

Would gladly mail this to someone else located in the USA w/ a return label + compensate with some sorta gear as a thanks (Low on funds at the moment, BUT I have oodles of spare high quality BNC and VGA cables, various transcoders, some processors/scalers, assorted Sega Saturn controllers & some more video game gear as well) if they’re willing to take a gander, diagnose & try to fix this modded GBS. Gut instinct says it’s not kaput, just some WiFi board funk.

I have horribly shaky hands (“Essential Tremor”, inherited from both sides of the family), so the bit of re-soldering I did to re-attach one of the wires that came loose is as far as my skill-set goes for delicate operations / teensy PCBs like GBS8200s.

[kitty666cats]

Disregard last post, NoAffinity is the man and is gonna help me out

BTW here’s a link to that Silicon data sheet I was talking about earlier RE: musing on potentially ideal VGA to HDMIs

https://www.latticesemi.com/-/media/Lat ... t_id=51619

[NoAffinity]

^Glad to help!

Got around to installing clock gen board on GBS-8200 but for some reason when I do 1080p resolution picture is really messed up purple tint and freaking out. 960p seems to work fine which is strange. Is this normal with a clock gen board not able to do 1080p resolution? Source is a playstation 2 via component cables 480i resolution. Wasnt having this issue before installing the clock gen board. Tried resetting to defaults in GBS control.

So I got ride of crazy purple at 1080p. I think it was the tiny enamled magnet wire for pin 40. It had continuity but when I resoldered with a larger wire 1080p worked fine. Now having issue with playing ps1 games on the ps2. In games that resolution switch from 240p to 480i the clock gen changes the clock slightly and causes TV to resync it shows 59hz on tv in 240p and when it goes to 480i in menu it shows 60hz. Any way to stop this from happening like hard locking the clock to 60hz somehow on the clock gen board?

I just gave it a quick test with my gbs-8200. Running the latest firmware. No problems. I offer some narration in-video, but basically this Sun PC CRT (Trinitron) I have noticed is somewhat finicky. It will click as if resolution switching for unknown reasons. It's usually at transition screens on attract modes, but on games that there is no known resolution switching.

Well, I tested Sega Saturn Daytona USA which switches from 240p to 480i in attract mode. The monitor never stumbled. GBS was registerting the resolution switching, but it is effectively seamless to the monitor.

https://youtu.be/reXA6imUZ5U