shmups.system11.org

Thanks for the help anyway! I'll keep looking!

DirkSwizzler did the research for us!
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63585

glad you got the software, but I'm pretty sure all you need is standard terminal emulation software to send the SIS commands

I discovered that a HDMI to component converter (Portta) I bought for my BVM to connect to my PC has a slightly low white point output - and gives a more washed out image than I'd normally get on my RGB/Component console connections.

I can successfully correct the washed out image by turning up the contrast on the service menu from 1000 to 1200 to match the white luminosity I'd normally get from my consoles. However, would turning up the contrast this much wear out the CRT faster, even if the final white luminosity is the same?

Hope I worded that in a legible way!

Slight discoloration and distortion in the upper left corner of this Trinitron. Caused by speaker you think?

I'm currently trying to connect my Japanese PS1 via (Euro-Scart) RGB-cable to my random consumer CRT.
I have sound but a weird super dark picture with somewhat visible contours. The cable itself works perfectly fine on my (somewhat) modern LCD-Television.
Is this an NTSC issue? Sync stuff? I have no clue

Maybe you have an idea.

Thanks in advance!

I have a Trinitron that has the exact same thing, same spot, but it disappears after ~30sec. All of my Trinitrons also are somewhat more blueish on the right vs yellowish on the left (very slight). Maybe the former is a speaker thing, maybe the latter is earth magnetic field. CRTs are weird.



China cable or good cable? From what I remember PS1s and PS2s need different capacitors in the cable and only the better cables are able to do both without issues. 'contours' can also be a crap cable issue. For the longest time I had a PS2 component cable where each high contrast edge had like 3 echos, getting official Sony ones was a noticeable improvement.

Make sure that your SCART cable has 220uF capacitors on the RGB lines. PAL uses resistors, and PS2/PS3 SCART cables do not have capacitors in the cables, because those were moved into the console.

I have the opportunity to pick up a Panasonic TX-29FJ50A but I'm not sure if it's 50hz or 100hz. Does anyone own one or just know which it is?

Retrotink 2X Mini
https://www.retrotink.com/product-page/2x-mini
I looked on the website, I looked in the online manual, I watched retro-rgb's review of the unit, but couldn't see the answer to this question.
Does anyone know what the new Retrotink 2x mini does with an interlace signal? Does it pass it through for the tv to deinterlace, or does it do bob deinterlacing?

according to the user manual that model (A) is 50Hz. I'm just going to assume you typoed the 100Hz? It's 50 or 60.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/11850 ... e=2#manual

100Hz TVs were quite popular in the final years of CRTs in PAL regions.

I got it to work in 480p on a PAL Wii by loading it into Neek using the US version on a US NTSC Nand.

Ah, thanks for the clarification. Well it's 50HZ IAC.

Does the Gamecube have any games that switch resolution like the PS1/N64 and how does the GCHD MkII handle these switches? I assume mainly just games like Retro Compilations that have 480i/p menus switch to 240p ingame?

Gonna say no. I don't have extensive knowledge of the GameCube library, but it looks like almost everything is 480i, with the majority also supporting 480p, and no 240p/480i resolution switching between gameplay and menus like the prior two generations.

There are two games, however, Mega Man X Collection and The Legend of Zelda Collector's Edition, that run their emulated games at 240p. I don't have direct experience with either of these collections, but, from what I gather, the games contained therein output in 240p fulltime. The startup menus might be in 480i or 480p, but selecting a game will put you in 240p until you quit the game (assuming you can) or reboot the console.

As for how GCVideo handles resolution switches, I believe it handles it the same way most line multipliers will, with HDMI blackouts.

I've been playing Rogue Squadron II lately using GCVideo, which runs at 480p. Unfortunately, there's a short HDMI dropout when transitioning between cutscenes and gameplay (particularly annoying when a crash cutscene finishes and you miss the first second or two of your next life). The strange thing is, if I use the analog output into a Framemeister, there is no resolution change or loss of signal, so I'm not sure what's causing the blackouts.

There doesn't have to be a resolution change for there to be an HDMI handshake issue. It's also possible that your display is less tolerant of the drop-outs than others, HDMI is very much a YMMV kind of situation.

That being said, there is a GCVideo thread here somewhere, so your question has already "deserved it's own thread." You might want to post there.

Anyone up to date on the Sinden Lightgun? Looks like beta testers/youtubers got theirs around a month ago, and you can order for a batch shipping in January on the Indiegogo page.

What I'm curious about is original hardware support. It's PS1 and PS2 right now but requires both a raspberry pi and an arduino? Is something simpler being worked on?

Anybody know if Borti’s all in one SuperCIC SNES mod is actually available anywhere?

https://8bitmods.com/supercic-aio-with- ... -dejitter/

This is the only site where I’ve ever seen in mentioned and it’s never been in stock.

Those are the two sources I know of:

https://videogameperfection.com/product ... cic-board/
https://retrogamerstuff.com/collections ... in-one-pcb

But not with the dejitter mod. Maybe ask in the thread for that?

Cheers, the all in one board I linked to also has a DFO which is of interest me in PAL land. I’ll check out the dejitter thread thanks

I've 2 PVMs (same model), I want to keep one permanently in TATE for shmups, but don't wanna spend for a 2 output RGB\Component socket.
Can I hook everything to the first PVM then set some sort of video loop to the second one with no video quality loss?
How exactly?

You'll have to provide the model specifics or take a picture of the back inputs and post it here.





Some PVMs have video loop through. look at the user manual for your model for more info. here is an example: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12966 ... =14#manual



I can't speak to it because I don't do it, but it should be fine. It was designed for that. Someone else might chime in about it.

Thanks; it’s 2x20L2. They both have “in” and “out” for RGB, so I guess it is ok. Would it work even between different brand of monitors (let’s say Sony and JVC), provided they have the same input/outputs?

Should be okay regardless of brand. the 20L2 has automatic termination, so shouldn't need a terminator for that one, but other monitors may require a 75 ohm terminator on the outputs.

I have a TVOne C2-750 that I use as a multiviewer. As you probably know it got an average delay of roughly 1,5 frames. Is there other options out there with less delay? Preferably some device that can take rgbs but hdmi would be fine too.

Hello all.

In regards to the early ps1 consoles that have the av ports on the back which supposedly have great DAC or better audio.

Is that just for listening to CDs? Or does that mean playing games you get greater audio or sound better?

Apologies if there is a thread or if it has been asked before.

It's just a stupid Internet urban legend bolstered by eBay sellers to inflate the prices on PS1s.

It's for all audio. so benefits games too.

that one and the 5000 do sound a bit better from my experience (and even better than my PS2s, which sound nice but a little thin. but those do have digital out so an external DAC is an option here).
wheter one's gear is good enough to reveal the change, is another matter.

if you're only plugged through your tv speaker you likely won't notice any difference. but through a good amp (or very good av receiver) and at least decent speakers, yes you will notice it.

will it be worth it for you? it depends per person. a lot of people don't care much about having amazing audio