TV RGB mod thread

[djanice1980]

I posted earlier, but because I am new here and my account was waiting to be approved - I don't think anyone saw it. I was able to save a nice 32 inch Philips CRT. I have never done this before but I am trying to do the RGB mod to it like all of you.

Here is a little more information from my previous post.

Philips TP3284 C101 / 32G7 Chassis. A bit new to this so bear with me. Found unpopulated spot on board where RGB input goes in to jungle chip.

Found the service manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Phi ... 10760.html

Page 82 Service manual "RGB Processing".

Here is a snippet of what I have done so far.

https://imgur.com/a/mRH1RXB

I believe the BL requires 3 volts input. Not sure about anything else.

Can someone help me figure out what resistors/capacitors to place in-line on here? Should I put the 47nf caps back on here? How do I do OSD mix? Or should I do a switch??? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you for any help.

I think you want to do an OSD mux targeting resistors 3065, 3066, 3067 RGB

Don't bother with the resistor calculator, just use two 75R twisted in each (75 + 75 = 150)

For blanking use the 8 bit guy method from his second video on resistor 3068 for blanking.

Thank you again for the help.

So from what I understand then - I need to put back the 47pf resistors that I took off - then remove 3065,3066,3067, and 3068 resistors and you want me to use 2 75ohm resistors in series to make 150 ohm on each. Then just throw a switch in there for the blanking line ( like from here: https://youtu.be/NkpSBK3g-gA ) and inject RGB on M20.

[MarkOZLAD]

The 75 ohm resistors need to have legs twisted like 8 bit guy part 1 and the RGB injected between them.

[arcangelnew]

Ok, I need some help. I've been working on my Panasonic CT-32G4A. I've determined that it's moddable since it's just about the same as the one devalis modded here: viewtopic.php?p=1226551#p1226551 which has the exact same Jungle IC as mine as he said here: https://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?t=11648

Here is a basic diagram of the circuit between the Microcontroller and the Jungle chip:

https://i.imgur.com/bzzdWzZ.png

Full schematic here: http://www.planetatecnico.com/foro/down ... p?id=11955

There are no diode or grounding resistors on the RGB lines. Using the OSD Mux chart for 2.2k in-line resistors I used 270 for my Mux lines. The chart called for 283 and it was the closest I had.

https://i.imgur.com/xW7XUuh.png

I am using a VGA connector as input. To start, I did nothing with the blanking line. My intention was to just activate the OSD on the TV with the RGB Mux in place to see if I got anything when the OSD was showing. I got nothing. The OSD did turn black, though, instead of green. I could see this whenever I set the input back to "TV" and saw the channel # displayed against the static background. It did this whether or not the VGA connector had anything plugged in or not. It seems just having those lines muxed in did it. At one point the OSD turned blue, and I checked and saw that my Blue MUX line had gotten disconnected, but R and G were still hooked in so that made sense.
Then I tried pulling Ys to 5V by hooking it to pin 9 on my VGA connector (not pictured in diagram). When I did that the TV screen was solid black no matter what I did.

Spoiler

OSD with mux circuit in place, nothing connected to VGA:

https://i.imgur.com/BXIvKtt.jpg

And if I remove the 75 ohm ground terminations:

Jungle IC: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 5165K.html

I should note that I was testing with a PC using a Radeon HD 6450 card flashed with ATOM-15 for 15kHz and Composite Sync using its DVI-I connector with a VGA adapter and booting it to FreeDOS. It's the only 15kHz RGB source I have at the moment, so I can't say for 100% certain that the source is valid.

Hey Osirus, I have a extremely similar tv, could you please share the final schematic of what you did to get the RGb working?

[qjkxbmwvz]

Hello, I've been trying to mod a Samsung TV, a TX-P2734. Its chassis is KS7A, and its jungle IC is a VCT49X3F.

My attempt at this thus far has involved the PiP feature: this set doesn't have a PiP module, but the jungle IC has some pins to take an input from one. I wired into those (not bothering with resistors or capacitors), and I got a picture! But the picture was really, really bright for a few seconds until it "cooled down," so to speak. It was also offset to the right, had some nasty shaking and crawling, and tended to warp and change size based on content. I don't suppose that the standard resistor/cap combo would fix these symptoms. Maybe it needs an actual PiP module for the image to display properly.

Well, the component input doesn't have those problems, and it turns out that it can also take RGB on the lines currently used for component, but I need to change a bit in a register for that. Now, I'm really a software guy, so I'm not afraid of flipping bits, and I've read that a Raspberry Pi can do I2C, but the TV isn't appearing on the Pi. Does it need to be on or what? The manuals are a bit lacking on this point, I suppose because a technician ought to already know.

Thanks for any help!

[jcmorris]

Hey guys! Thanks to the work of MarkOZLAD , mgerety, tons of others , I was able to mod a Sony KV-27FS200 with a BA5D chassis. But have a small issue with a stationary dark vertical line on the screen. I tried RGB modded NES, Genesis and SNES and all had the same effect. Heres some pics of a 240 test suite color bar and white screen.


Im using a SCART input. I originally wired it up via a RCA cable and ran CSYNC to video 1 (like in mgerety's post) ; the picture was excellent, but had the left shift on my NESRGB. My Sega Genesis (Model 1) did not have left shift. Because I wanted to use multiple consoles and not enter the service menu to change this every time, I decided to rewire the sync to the Svideo Luma.

Original Scart (Good picture but left shift):
Pin 2,4,6-Audio
Pin 5- Ground to Modboard to Luma Ground Svideo
pin 7- Blue
pin11 -Green
pin15 -Red
pin 17 -Ground to Video 1 RCA ground cable (Routed to video 1)
Pin 20 -Sync to Video 1 RCA cable (Routed to VIdeo 1)

New Scart (Dark vertical line):
Pin 2,4,6-Audio
Pin 5- Ground to Modboard to Luma Ground Svideo
pin 7- Blue
pin11 -Green
pin15 -Red
pin 17 -Ground to Chroma Ground Svideo
Pin 20 -Sync to Luma Sync Svideo
(Jumped Sense Pins to make Svideo "On")

Now the left shift problem is fixed, but Im experiencing a dark vertical line going down the screen about 3/4 of the way across. Not black just making the screen darker. Any ideas if it could be something wired improperly like a bad ground etc? Perhaps some wires running too close to something else?

The only thing I changed was removing the video one RCA cable from pins 20 and 17 on SCART and back of the TV, and running a ground cable from chroma ground to Pin 17 on SCART and sync from Luma sync on svideo to SCART pin 20 (Laid out in the pinout above)

Thank you all for your contributions , hopefully this is a simple fix someone will pick up on.

[MarkOZLAD]

Try using only one ground point instead of two.

[Osirus]

Got a Trinitron with an AA-2W chassis. The Jungle IC is a CXA2131S which I can't find a sheet for, but the OSD circuit is something I haven't dealt with before. The RGB lines go through some kind of transistor buffer (grid B2 in the schematic).



https://www.manualslib.com/manual/68691 ... =35#manual

Anyone dealt with those before?

There's also another chip, IC354 which is labeled YUV SW. It has unused RGB In pins on it, almost like it could be used directly as another input of the TV.



Update: Found a datasheet for IC354. Looks like those RGB inputs get converted to YCbCr and sent to the Jungle. Pulling pin 20 high should enable them.

https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/down ... r=CXA2119M

[MarkOZLAD]

This AA-2W chassis is pretty much identical to AA-2D.

OSD Mux method. RGB “grounding” resistors are R133, R1128 and R1123.

[maquese]

https://elektrotanya.com/sony_anu2_chas ... nload.html

any tips on how to RGB mod this TV?

hopefully you have the 27EXR25. If so, you should be able to insert your RGB and blanking into the header where the P board (PIP) plugs in. If you have the 27EXR20, the RGB input may be disabled via software.. See this video for more info. It's a slightly different chassis than yours, but the concept would be the same, I think.

https://youtu.be/ANSxASanZes

nope got the 10. I see the header for PIP installed from the factory so maybe it'll work but I'm not holding my breath. 1) The issue I see is there are no grounding resistors for RGB OSD lines. 2) Also I'm not sure what the voltage should be to enable OSD blanking, 3v? 3) It looks like the voltages to the RGB input from PIP and OSD are different.

I've also got this TV, the 27EXR20. If you get this working, I'd love to hear exactly how you did it. I'm a total n00b to all this, but it seems like this TV should be easy-ish.

[qjkxbmwvz]

Hey, so I'm trying to mod a Philips 20PT6245/37. Its jungle IC is a TDA9377, and it takes component by default.

I've wired a SCART connector to use the same lines as component, putting sync onto the first composite input. Unfortunately, as previously observed in this thread, these TDA93XX chips do YUV or RGB, and the selection between them is determined by a bit in a register. Well, I hooked a Raspberry Pi up to the I2C interface and wrote to that register, and it worked! ...briefly. Something keeps overwriting it back into YUV mode. Unless there's something easy that I've missed, all that I can think to do at this point is dump the EEPROM, disassemble it, adjust the programming, and reflash it.

Thoughts?

[Osirus]

Hey, so I'm trying to mod a Philips 20PT6245/37. Its jungle IC is a TDA9377, and it takes component by default.

I've wired a SCART connector to use the same lines as component, putting sync onto the first composite input. Unfortunately, as previously observed in this thread, these TDA93XX chips do YUV or RGB, and the selection between them is determined by a bit in a register. Well, I hooked a Raspberry Pi up to the I2C interface and wrote to that register, and it worked! ...briefly. Something keeps overwriting it back into YUV mode. Unless there's something easy that I've missed, all that I can think to do at this point is dump the EEPROM, disassemble it, adjust the programming, and reflash it.

Thoughts?

If it's like Sonys, the microcontroller continuously sets the register value while the TV is in operation.

[qjkxbmwvz]

Hey, so I'm trying to mod a Philips 20PT6245/37. Its jungle IC is a TDA9377, and it takes component by default.

I've wired a SCART connector to use the same lines as component, putting sync onto the first composite input. Unfortunately, as previously observed in this thread, these TDA93XX chips do YUV or RGB, and the selection between them is determined by a bit in a register. Well, I hooked a Raspberry Pi up to the I2C interface and wrote to that register, and it worked! ...briefly. Something keeps overwriting it back into YUV mode. Unless there's something easy that I've missed, all that I can think to do at this point is dump the EEPROM, disassemble it, adjust the programming, and reflash it.

Thoughts?

If it's like Sonys, the microcontroller continuously sets the register value while the TV is in operation.

Yeah, that's what I've been inferring. Sometimes, when I try to set the value of the register, the write fails - this, I've been thinking, is when it's being set back, regardless of whether it's currently in RGB mode. The question, then, is where it's pulling the value to set it to from. I'm hoping that it's in the EEPROM and not the jungle IC's internal ROM; in fact, I would really like to find code in there rather than just data, but that's probably vain. If I did get write access to the main program, I would alter it to do RGB on blanking and YUV otherwise.

Interestingly, the TV's software distinguishes between the two modes beyond just applying a matrix or not: when in RGB mode, the user menu has a tint option that disappears in YUV. This option is also present for composite and S-video, though, so make of that what you will.

When I tried running the TV with the EEPROM's SDA pin disconnected, the image formatting was all wrong, the input was stuck on TV channels (which were still changeable), several menu options were missing, and the service menu's option bytes were nulled out and unchangeable. That EEPROM is responsible for a lot! Probably not as much as I would like, but a fair amount.

[VajSkids Consoles]

Hey, so I'm trying to mod a Philips 20PT6245/37. Its jungle IC is a TDA9377, and it takes component by default.

I've wired a SCART connector to use the same lines as component, putting sync onto the first composite input. Unfortunately, as previously observed in this thread, these TDA93XX chips do YUV or RGB, and the selection between them is determined by a bit in a register. Well, I hooked a Raspberry Pi up to the I2C interface and wrote to that register, and it worked! ...briefly. Something keeps overwriting it back into YUV mode. Unless there's something easy that I've missed, all that I can think to do at this point is dump the EEPROM, disassemble it, adjust the programming, and reflash it.

Thoughts?

If it's like Sonys, the microcontroller continuously sets the register value while the TV is in operation.

My first RGB mod was a hitachi with this same philips IC... I’ve done 3 or 4 in a row and each one was a little different than I initially thought after reading through data sheets.

I noticed the bit register for that IC as well to enable RGB but all the circuitry for that aspect of the chips capabilities weren’t part of the main boards design/ programmed into the OSD interface. I tried a few things but found tapping straight onto the RGB outputs (which has being fine on other televisions) gave me picture but far too dark.

I ended up tracing the RGB lines all the way across the board tapping onto new locations until I ultimately ended up at a couple points just before it popped onto the cable header to drive the guns.

Ultimately I ended up at the final stop off point prior to this cable header , bypassing a few components (resistors) and had perfect RGB. Using C sync you don’t even need a blanking switch and get light OSD overlay but for sync over composite you need to blank.

Blanking using C sync does affect the pictures brightness just the slightest bit unless you get close to the tube and flick it back and forth you wouldn’t really notice at a distance.

I think it’s much easier to just “hack” these CRTs than put in so much effort with what you mentioned.

On a trinitron I recently sold to a stoked feller, I used a 5k pot on the RGB lines to ground to give a little attenuation if needed. Doing it this way you can only use brightness and maybe contrast on the settings. Because it’s direct drive you miss out on all the OSD features but if your devices are kind of spot on it should be fine. My master system 2’s do closer to .9vpp and their inputs are way off the CXA1145 specs on the data sheet (too high)

[requiem11]

@cargo did you successfully RGB modded your KV-27TS32? I just acquired the same tv model today and I also want to mod it but don't know where to begin.

Thank you MarkOZLAD. It took me a few weeks but I was able to buy a spare board M off Ebay. So if I mess up I have an extra life.

I am inclined towards removing resistors R159-R161 and insert my RGB lines there. If I go this route would activating close captions using the TV's menu with the remote be all that's required to turn on the blanking signal? (save the extra step of having to build a blanking switch).

There appear to be a lot of via's (small holes that attach to circuits) on the board. I would be investigating whether they could be used as entry/solder points for through hole resistors. My "Plan A" would still be to remove R159, R160 and R161 and replacing them with two twisted together resistors (ala the 8 Bit Guy mod). In your case the CCD mux inlines would be 750 Ohm resistors that would be twisted to 75 Ohm resistors. (The resistors on the CCD lines, R162, R163 and R164 are 4700 so 750 can be looked up on my 0.7Vp-p cheat sheet in my signature)



Another option would be to remove R159, R160 and R161, insert 750 Ohm resistors into the vias that are attached, then run these to the RGB inputs and do your 75 ohm termination at the input. (RCA/BNC/Scart/VGA).

For the diagram I drew for blanking I ignored the switch as it is trivial.

[MarkOZLAD]

Hey, so I'm trying to mod a Philips 20PT6245/37. Its jungle IC is a TDA9377, and it takes component by default.

I've wired a SCART connector to use the same lines as component, putting sync onto the first composite input. Unfortunately, as previously observed in this thread, these TDA93XX chips do YUV or RGB, and the selection between them is determined by a bit in a register. Well, I hooked a Raspberry Pi up to the I2C interface and wrote to that register, and it worked! ...briefly. Something keeps overwriting it back into YUV mode. Unless there's something easy that I've missed, all that I can think to do at this point is dump the EEPROM, disassemble it, adjust the programming, and reflash it.

Thoughts?

I don’t believe it’s the EEPROM, it’s the programming of the microcontroller that is part of this all in one chip. If you could extract its programme, disassemble, patch and reflash it then I think you could get it going. (I have no idea if that is possible)

[qjkxbmwvz]

Hey, so I'm trying to mod a Philips 20PT6245/37. Its jungle IC is a TDA9377, and it takes component by default.

I've wired a SCART connector to use the same lines as component, putting sync onto the first composite input. Unfortunately, as previously observed in this thread, these TDA93XX chips do YUV or RGB, and the selection between them is determined by a bit in a register. Well, I hooked a Raspberry Pi up to the I2C interface and wrote to that register, and it worked! ...briefly. Something keeps overwriting it back into YUV mode. Unless there's something easy that I've missed, all that I can think to do at this point is dump the EEPROM, disassemble it, adjust the programming, and reflash it.

Thoughts?

If it's like Sonys, the microcontroller continuously sets the register value while the TV is in operation.

My first RGB mod was a hitachi with this same philips IC... I’ve done 3 or 4 in a row and each one was a little different than I initially thought after reading through data sheets.

I noticed the bit register for that IC as well to enable RGB but all the circuitry for that aspect of the chips capabilities weren’t part of the main boards design/ programmed into the OSD interface. I tried a few things but found tapping straight onto the RGB outputs (which has being fine on other televisions) gave me picture but far too dark.

I ended up tracing the RGB lines all the way across the board tapping onto new locations until I ultimately ended up at a couple points just before it popped onto the cable header to drive the guns.

Ultimately I ended up at the final stop off point prior to this cable header , bypassing a few components (resistors) and had perfect RGB. Using C sync you don’t even need a blanking switch and get light OSD overlay but for sync over composite you need to blank.

Blanking using C sync does affect the pictures brightness just the slightest bit unless you get close to the tube and flick it back and forth you wouldn’t really notice at a distance.

I think it’s much easier to just “hack” these CRTs than put in so much effort with what you mentioned.

On a trinitron I recently sold to a stoked feller, I used a 5k pot on the RGB lines to ground to give a little attenuation if needed. Doing it this way you can only use brightness and maybe contrast on the settings. Because it’s direct drive you miss out on all the OSD features but if your devices are kind of spot on it should be fine. My master system 2’s do closer to .9vpp and their inputs are way off the CXA1145 specs on the data sheet (too high)

Alright, since my efforts with the EEPROM have gone nowhere (not only does it not contain program code; the value being written to the register seems to be coming from elsewhere), how would I go about doing that blanking that you refer to? Some of my consoles are doing sync through LM1881s, which are not quite giving me clean sync signals; just clean enough that my (recently dead) Amiga 1080 didn't mind.

[Romariu]

It is possible to modify Panasonic TC14A10.
Thank you.

[MarkOZLAD]

It is possible to modify Panasonic TC14A10.
Thank you.

Yes

[labrat]

Content re-posted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 9:17 am

[VajSkids Consoles]

"Alright, since my efforts with the EEPROM have gone nowhere (not only does it not contain program code; the value being written to the register seems to be coming from elsewhere), how would I go about doing that blanking that you refer to? Some of my consoles are doing sync through LM1881s, which are not quite giving me clean sync signals; just clean enough that my (recently dead) Amiga 1080 didn't mind."


I just poke around with my meter while they're live and find 5v, the best TV's have bunch of holes with metal wire links (non-insulated)- and you'll find a 5v link. The others I just check the IC's that run at 5v on the datasheet - I like to then load the specific datasheet for any IC off the television data sheet and double check things in them, and then just tap those 5v legs. You're generally just injecting the blanking signal with 5v, off memory this one needed a minimum of 4.4 ish to be pulled "high"

**Also composites fine as sync with blanking. I was losing sync momentarily and always in the same parts of certain games (with composite) hence I was able to test with my master systems that have switches for C-sync/ composite and other consoles i use TTL pulled down with resistor and cap.

**stay away from the HV area when you're poking around - like don't go near the flyback

[Oakleaf]

YouTube
https://youtu.be/uaKiQTjjI28

Ibhope im posting the right link but i saw a youtube about patching the rgb register in realtime with arduino and it worked.

might be an option?

[qjkxbmwvz]

Alright, since my efforts with the EEPROM have gone nowhere (not only does it not contain program code; the value being written to the register seems to be coming from elsewhere), how would I go about doing that blanking that you refer to? Some of my consoles are doing sync through LM1881s, which are not quite giving me clean sync signals; just clean enough that my (recently dead) Amiga 1080 didn't mind.

I just poke around with my meter while they're live and find 5v, the best TV's have bunch of holes with metal wire links (non-insulated)- and you'll find a 5v link. The others I just check the IC's that run at 5v on the datasheet - I like to then load the specific datasheet for any IC off the television data sheet and double check things in them, and then just tap those 5v legs. You're generally just injecting the blanking signal with 5v, off memory this one needed a minimum of 4.4 ish to be pulled "high"

**Also composites fine as sync with blanking. I was losing sync momentarily and always in the same parts of certain games (with composite) hence I was able to test with my master systems that have switches for C-sync/ composite and other consoles i use TTL pulled down with resistor and cap.

**stay away from the HV area when you're poking around - like don't go near the flyback

Getting 5V is no trouble, as my consoles provide that. However, the blanking pin (45) doesn't seem to do anything. My multimeter indicates that it's already getting over 4V by default, and throwing 5V from SCART pin 16 onto it doesn't make a difference. My earlier experiments with that pin, done in the vain hope of getting it to switch between YUV and RGB, found that grounding it also doesn't change anything.

Currently, I'm wiring to a set of resistors that connect to the jungle IC's output pins, which does get me a picture, but it needs amplification, of course. But there's some nasty stuff going on with the original output (including the OSD), so that really needs to not come through. However, disconnecting the output from the jungle IC (by lifting one side of each resistor) makes the TV unwilling to run more than about a second. I've also tried lifting out just the blue channel and grounding it, but that also just makes the TV shut off after one second of operation. This is concerning, as my idea for how to deal with the original output was to use a muxer, but it looks as if the TV would be unhappy with that.

[Monstermug]

Rather than creating a new post I was wondering if anybody knows of a device that can force 4:3 aspect ratio on a 1080P monitor that doesnt have that function built into it? I am having issues whereby naomi 31k is displaying at 16:9 on my viewlix diamond black monitor. Apparently Taito has said that the diamond black monitor doesnt have 4:3 which other viewlix does support. What are my options?

[VajSkids Consoles]

Alright, since my efforts with the EEPROM have gone nowhere (not only does it not contain program code; the value being written to the register seems to be coming from elsewhere), how would I go about doing that blanking that you refer to? Some of my consoles are doing sync through LM1881s, which are not quite giving me clean sync signals; just clean enough that my (recently dead) Amiga 1080 didn't mind.

I just poke around with my meter while they're live and find 5v, the best TV's have bunch of holes with metal wire links (non-insulated)- and you'll find a 5v link. The others I just check the IC's that run at 5v on the datasheet - I like to then load the specific datasheet for any IC off the television data sheet and double check things in them, and then just tap those 5v legs. You're generally just injecting the blanking signal with 5v, off memory this one needed a minimum of 4.4 ish to be pulled "high"

**Also composites fine as sync with blanking. I was losing sync momentarily and always in the same parts of certain games (with composite) hence I was able to test with my master systems that have switches for C-sync/ composite and other consoles i use TTL pulled down with resistor and cap.

**stay away from the HV area when you're poking around - like don't go near the flyback

Getting 5V is no trouble, as my consoles provide that. However, the blanking pin (45) doesn't seem to do anything. My multimeter indicates that it's already getting over 4V by default, and throwing 5V from SCART pin 16 onto it doesn't make a difference. My earlier experiments with that pin, done in the vain hope of getting it to switch between YUV and RGB, found that grounding it also doesn't change anything.

Currently, I'm wiring to a set of resistors that connect to the jungle IC's output pins, which does get me a picture, but it needs amplification, of course. But there's some nasty stuff going on with the original output (including the OSD), so that really needs to not come through. However, disconnecting the output from the jungle IC (by lifting one side of each resistor) makes the TV unwilling to run more than about a second. I've also tried lifting out just the blue channel and grounding it, but that also just makes the TV shut off after one second of operation. This is concerning, as my idea for how to deal with the original output was to use a muxer, but it looks as if the TV would be unhappy with that.

I mixed your IC up with TDA884X
Honestly probably not the best guy to talk to
You seen the video where that arcade guy licks his fingers and rubs them across the Televisions IC's until he see's Red/green/blue artefacting show up on screen? This was because he had no access to datasheets and the IC's werent marked. He successfully RGB hacked this kerbside pick up!

I tend to go a little "bush mechanic" with televisions myself when I get desperate because, well ...my sheds full of them! nothing that will cause an explosion or electrocution but I will run wire with 5v or ground on one end and brush them past IC legs.

I have a mitsubishi waiting to get looked at - a couple LG's of different sizes and my next up is a nice old Samsung.. but until I get rid of the old Sharp i most recently RGB hacked i refuse to touch the others.

On a trinitron i recently sold to an EXTREMELY happy bloke (he was taking his dreamcast around, seller to seller in a backpack - setting it up to evaluate many CRT's) i went a bit bush for a while. It survived.

you're basically looking for a way to disable the Televisions output to the screen completely - so that the tube is fired up and ready for signal injection but the mainboard and all it's features are "non-existent"
I wouldn't risk it if that TV is a prized possession though....

[qjkxbmwvz]

I wouldn't risk it if that TV is a prized possession though....

Nah, I found it sitting on the sidewalk with a piece of paper taped to it that said "FREE" in big letters.

[labrat]

Content re-posted to : Sun Oct 11, 2020 9:17 am

[VajSkids Consoles]

lol!! I've picked up a few from kerbs, others i get cheap. I paid 80 for the 27' trini and sold it for 170.

Well, just go for gold - there's got to be a way you can blank the screen and stick that on a switch. IT's a last resort thing. For me the televisions were only for RGB hacking - i have way too many better options available than composite on a CRT and not about to set up a VHS player or some old school DVD Player that's compatible with video discs so I can burn my MPEGS that took overnight to download on ADSL. I mean it is 2020 haha

[VajSkids Consoles]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQSq5J6_xWc

Heres a nice refurb video for ya! she knows what the bush method is all about hahahaha

[qjkxbmwvz]

Alright, so turning the brightness all the way down seems to be sufficient to "clean up" a dirty sync, but there's another problem: the black level is off. I don't mean the black level on my input; I mean the one on the TV itself as long as my added RGB lines are going to the jungle IC's output pins. I have the standard 75Ω to ground followed by 100nF, and these are going to some 100Ω resistors (although the service manual claims 470Ω) that connect directly to the RGB out pins. I've found that omitting the caps makes the TV shut off, and wiring in after the resistors rather than before has the same effect. As long as this is in place (i.e. with nothing plugged into the SCART port), I get retrace lines and sort of a ripple pattern on the right side - I think that this is caused by the added connection between post-amp RGB and ground.

What do you do to make a jungle bypass look right? I don't want to go ordering an LM1203 or whatever amp if I'm going to have retrace lines.

[VajSkids Consoles]

Stuff the jungle chip/ stuff the teletext and all this hack stuff you’ve read about.
Just inject your signals straight onto the RGB out pins of the main IC

Keep it simple, you’re thinking too much!

My last hack

https://imgur.com/gallery/oTw4l3e

You can see my initial guess at a working hack didn’t work and I changed it , i also grabbed 5v elsewhere but that wasn’t necessary. The unused cable header at rear I just found the ground pin on that.

So far thrown master systems, megadrives, SNES one chip/ non 1 chip/ super famicom
I should try my RGB NES but it’s in the garage

If you just want an RGB television and not worried about all the other functionality it’s pretty easy to squirt your signals in and have it come up crisp on the tube