shmups.system11.org

Looks like I was mistaken. Sorry to misinform. I would certainly trust MKL over myself.

My TV is a Panasonic pvq-1312. I would like to preform a successful RGB mod for obvious reasons. Could somebody please take a look and evaluate how to do it. I have a rough idea of how to do it by connecting the RGB in lines on the jungle chip to RCA connectors.
Here is a link to a sight where you can download the service manual:https://www.manualslib.com/manual/698652/Panasonic-Pvq-130w.html

Alright, everyone. The Sanyo DS19330 has RGB! It's... a little underwhelming right now.

Thing's I'm noticing and things to note:

• Overall, it's too dark for my liking.
• I can't adjust the "screen" nob more, or the screen gets blue and shows those unfortunate lines
• There is a little ghost/shadow on the text
• The vertical lines are a little jagged-y in the test pattern
• I placed 680ohm, 220ohm, and 10ohm resistors in series to get to the 910ohms for my mux resisotors. It's only reading ~890ohm on my multimeter, though... Is that just a quirk of my resistors or is my multimeter wrong?
• My terminating resistors are 75ohm, and I just connected them to my BNC ports' grounding directly from the middle section of the port. Seemed like a quick way to do that without making another wire.
• I have my csync cable from the snes cord just going into the composite in on the front of the tv.
• Would recapping the tv help? It's from 2003.
• I've adjusted the focus nob as well as I can. Looks like it's in focus.
• My blanking switch doesn’t appear to do anything. I turn off blanking and the screen starts to have a light creep in from the left side of the screen. I have this on a switch just incase I want to play something as composite.

I'm not sure if I'm sending enough voltage into the jungle... but I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't really get all of... that... yet. I got the mux resistor values from the 0.7 table. Should I try the 0.5 table?

PICS:

It's Moody-Tones Mario World!


Slight shadow to the right


Adjusting the screen knob too high


Slight little bumpies in the vertical white lines.

The smearing is from the 2chip SNES. Try another console or a 1chip

These are similar to the results I had with some Sharp and Sanyo TVs I worked on. You may have better results with the 0.5vpp values.

However, if that doesn't work and you want to make the picture more normal, increase the RGB cutoffs in the service menu - that will increase the brightness and you can turn down the flyback pot to compensate.

In my experience, composite video is better to use for sync. Some TVs do not like the csync signal from game consoles and will react in strange ways.

Okay, I’ll try 620ohm mux resistors from the 0.5v table. What terminating resistors does that leave me with? 51? Not sure I understand that part. And composite vs csync — I thought they were the same and that’s what I was doing. Sync cable plugged into the front of the tv.

I’ll be mostly using this with a MiSTer, so I can give that a shot during testing.

I hate this Sanyo LA768XX jungles.

I think the trick might be to use an I2C hack to get access to the OSD brightness and contrast registers.

Can you link to some info about how to do an i2c hack?

It's a non-trivial task. Here's a video of doing one to enable RGB inputs on a Sony.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANSxASanZes

Unrelated question, anyone know anything about Toshiba 27A10? I found one locally but can't find a service manual or schematics anywhere.

etim’s I2C manipulator

https://etim.net.au/tv-bus/

skum has done a few I2C hacks

https://immerhax.com/?p=305

Could we enable RGB input 1 (pin 25-28) instead of doing the OSD mux method by tapping into RGB input 2?

I've recently bought a KD-36FS170. I'd like to RGB mod it, but I'm having trouble finding the jungle chip & micro controller in the service manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/82449 ... KD-36FS170

Any advice?

The only service manual I can find for the ANU-1A chassis suggests that RGB needs to go into pins 16,17 and 18 of IC301 (CXA1313S). Blanking is YS pin 15. You cannot use OSD mux.

It is a BA-6 chassis. It is not RGB moddable by the Jungle RGB input hijack methods we use here. The jungle chip does not have RGB inputs.

I'm talking about a BA-4 Chassis. 27v65. It has 2 separate RGB inputs on the jungle chip.

Well your post had Sony KV32XBR55 in it....Not sure how I was supposed to know that.

You could try researching the service menu feature options and see if there's a way to enable them through that.

Otherwise an I2C hack may be able to be used to to set the "RGB SEL" bit in the CXA2061S registers.

Hey guys, currently trying to RGB Mod a JVC AV27D302. I followed a YouTube tutorial for the AC20D202 since the boards are extremely similar but the method is not working. In the video he never mentions terminating the RGB lines with 75ohm resistors but I have done that for my mod and it still isn't working. https://youtu.be/1YGy3FuAxfA

There is a service manual for my model with the board schematic that shows Ys, R, G, and B running from the IC701 to the chroma chip analog RGB input. The Ys needs 5v to activate so I am feeding it 4.9 something volts from a regulator on the board. Sync is wired up to the Y input on component. I have a 4PDT switch to swap between the original OSD lines and RGB with blanking 5v. When I flip the switch to RGB the screen goes blank but I get no picture. RGB is not activating even though the screen is blanking.

I asked around and someone suggested wiring my 5v to a lifted resistor leg (R374) on the board close to the IC701 instead of using the W214 jumper shown in the video tutorial I followed. I'm going to try that tonight but if anyone has additional insight I would greatly appreciate it. I've been banging my head against this for a week's worth of late nights now.

I am looking into buying a Sony ev-dt1. It's a nice small tv with built in video8 player. I won't be using the player and maybe I can replace it with a pi or have a jamma input.
Thing I am interested in is wether this one can be modded for rgb input. I have found the service manual and the jungle ic is cxa1001.
Looking at the RGB inputs on this chip shows a 3.2v pp, which doesn't look like what I would expect.
Can anyone tell me more about this and if it's possible to mod for RGB?

4PDT method is kind of frowned upon here now. Mixing with OSD lines is preferred. Looking at the schematic for your TV it looks like a typical candidate for OSD mix.

The Jungle chip in the video you posted is different from yours. His is a TB1254N with RGB In on 16, 17, 18. Yours is TB1253AN with inputs on 20, 21, and 22. The only datasheet on it I could find is in Japanese: https://datasheet4u.com/datasheet-parts ... ?id=532262

The description for the Ext RGB inputs mentions something about a Bus as well.

I found that Japanese datasheet as well and was running bits of it through Google Translate. Funny enough I didn't notice the pins were different, I wonder what pins the jumpers go to that I am injecting RGB into... I'll look into that.

I have seen some posts about muxing, how do I figure out what resistor values to use?

Thanks for your reply, its greatly appreciated.

Edit: I verified with a multimeter that the jumper points I used from the YouTube video match up to the pins named in the datasheet for my chroma chip (19 for Ys, 20 for R, 21 for G, 22 for B). So everything is seemingly already wired correctly yet not working

Edit 2: I was able to verify with a breadboard that my blanking voltage is actually working, because I am able to inject the original signal from the OSD to the chroma pins I am using for my wiring, and I can see the OSD just fine. I noticed that my RGB signal is also showing but it is extremely dark and faint. What do I need to add to the wiring to amplify the signal?

I have a Philips 32G7 chassis. I have found an unpopulated spot on the board where there is a usually a TDA7053 chip. I was thinking about inputting RGB in this spot. There is R,G,B and Blanking in this area that is connected to the jungle chip. Does this seem like an appropriate area to do this?

I have attached a snippet of the schematic for the area.

https://imgur.com/CxifRK6

Here is a little more information from my previous post.

Philips TP3284 C101 / 32G7 Chassis. A bit new to this so bear with me. Found unpopulated spot on board where RGB input goes in to jungle chip.

Found the service manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Phi ... 10760.html

Page 82 Service manual "RGB Processing".

Here is a snippet of what I have done so far.

https://imgur.com/a/mRH1RXB

I believe the BL requires 3 volts input. Not sure about anything else.

What should I do at this point?

Since you've already snipped lines I would focus on getting RGB input working before worrying about muxing. If you are injecting your RGB directly into your Jungle there should only be 75ohm resistors going to ground and 100nF inline going into the pins.

Okay I have the 75ohm termination already. I noticed that the Ext RGB circuit has 0.1uF capacitors at the end of the jumper lines i injected into - right before the jungle pins. Should I bypass these?

You should be able to just inject directly into the nodes you posted since they already have 100nF caps and 75ohm terminations, assuming you've snipped everything upstream from that already.

Okay now we are getting somewhere! RGB works now but actually seems... too bright? I'm not sure how to describe it. Some games look fine and others with lots of white look very blown out and bloomy. Like the SMBW title screen its hard to follow Mario's movements because of how bright the background is. Maybe I need some resistors?

Edit: The service menu had options to adjust RGB and I was able to correct the brightness/contrast that way Thanks for your help!

Well, that arrangement didn't pan out. I've instead acquired a KV-36FV16. Service manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/download/829 ... 6fs12.html

Looks like there's some similarity with the BA-5 chassis, but it doesn't match up completely. The YS2/YM pin is unpopulated. It looks like the YS1 pin is the one connected to the Microcontroller?

I'm also not clear on how sync should be handled if you're gonna stick to CSYNC. I would like to install BNC connectors instead of SCART with RGBs input. Should I wire sync into composite? S-video Luma? Or do I need to wire it differently?

Thanks.

Composite or S-video Luma connectors on the back of the TV work for sync. I've heard S-video is better but have never used it. I can't find a datasheet but I would start with the assumption Ys1 (25) enables the OSD RGB inputs (26, 27, 28). Remove the 330 ohm grounding resistors on the OSD lines and inject there using appropriate values from Mark's chart.

Jump center top and center bottom s-video pins to trigger sense and then run sync into s-video luma pin through the backside. https://i.imgur.com/eTPVmmV.jpg
The service manual says your TV uses 2200/330 ohm resistors so you can use 270 or 300 for OSD mux and you'll need 75 ohm to ground on the input side.
Use YS1 to enable RGB. It looks like the voltage divider is 2.2k+220&10k so a 2.2k resistor + 5v should give the same voltage. But double check that.
I install de-15 ports and then use a vga to bnc adapter rather than installing bnc connections directly.



s-video stops left shift that occurs when using composite.

I see a wavy effect on my RGB modded JVC AV-27D302... is that from noise or is it a signal attenuation issue? How do I resolve it?