TV RGB mod thread

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Josh128
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Josh128 »

Noswad wrote:
An issue that this tv may have is that it might have a hot chassis. I don't want to be electrocuted and I want to stay safe.

Attached are the schematics for this tv. If anyone could help with this I would greatly appreciate it!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mUG25o ... p=drivesdk

Thanks
Dawson
First off, I want to know what you mean by it might have a hot chassis. You believe the hot / ungrounded conductor of your power plug is connected to the chassis of your set? Why would you think that? If thats the case, any exposed metal on the set, including the RF / ANT in connector, can shock you if you touch it. This is an extremely dangerous condition, and is not normal for any set ever made. All you need to do to verify is use a DMM set to AC volts and touch one lead to either the ground or neutral of your AC receptacle and touch the other lead to the threaded/outside part of your RF in connector. If you show line voltage on the DMM, then you are correct and your set was somehow wired incorrectly. If you stand barefoot on the your floor on a humid day and touch any metal part of your TV, it can literally kill you. More likely it will just give you a nasty shock, but it can stop your heart as well.

As far as tapping the RGB lines on the neck, it is difficult to get a proper picture and is not recommended here because of that and the potential danger of increased Xray emissions from unregulated input signal levels and chance of shock, so you wont get much advice on that here. As far as getting sync, plugging composite sync into the composite video port on a set with video inputs would work, but as yours has no inputs, you would probably have to look somewhere near the output of the RF demodulator to tap in. Wish we could be of more help.
Noswad
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Noswad »

I followed your advice and tested between neutral at the wall and the screw on the antenna input and got 70VAC and between ground at the wall and the screw I got 80VAC. I also got the same result with various grounded pieces inside the tv. It's not necessary line voltage but it's still something.
I don't think anything is wrong with the house wiring. Could I not just connect the TV's ground to the ground at the wall? By hot chassis I mean that the TV's ground has potential to earth ground. I believe this is found on old TV's and radios with transformerless power supplies. Correct me if I am wrong. This just feels dangerous! I have been shocked before by an old Peavey guitar amp with a broken ground pin and that was not fun. I have also placed my finger in a light socket!

On the case of composite input, it may be possible to feed it in after pin 19 of IC201 (CX555A). There is a transistor there labeled "video amp" and a sample waveform that looks like composite video. After that IC301 (CX556) has chromanince and luminance inputs. I have attached a datasheet for that IC and although it is not the same the pinout seems to be the same. Maybe we could composite or svideo or even both?
Thanks for the reply. I decided not to do anything with the tv until I get this "hot chassis" thing figured out.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11FCYBh ... p=drivesdk

Thanks
Dawson
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Josh128
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Josh128 »

Look on page 63. "Use isolation transformer or observe polarity"

This is one of those very old devices with a non-polarized line in plug, apparently. If you want to work on it you have to verify which side of the plug you plug into the wall! Now, being that you only measured ~70Vac from the chassis to ground means you had it plugged in the "right" way, but there is some current leakage from the hot side to the chassis somewhere in the set. If you attached a 3 pin cord with a ground to the set and grounded the ground pin to the chassis and either plugged it into a GCFI outlet or a circuit protected with a GFCI breaker, it would trip right away. There is a "ground fault" somewhere in there where there is a partial connection from hot to the chassis. Could be caused by dirt/dust/grime, or possibly something is failing, like a shorted capacitor in series with a resistor to ground somewhere in the primary portion of the power supply. Perhaps cleaning everything really well (topside and underside) with some contact cleaner might help. You can clean and then re-check voltage to ground.

So, unless you can find the ground fault (which I suspect will not be an easy task), you CAN take the suggestion of running it through an isolation transformer. This will disconnect the line reference to ground and eliminate any danger of you being shocked from being grounded (as you naturally are) and touching anything metal on the chassis. It wont however, prevent shock in the event you get between hot and neutral on the secondary side of the isolation xformer or in the TV itself. It will also not prevent shock in the event you get between the chassis and the anode!

Now an isolation transformer is likely going to cost a lot more than your set is worth, but thats up to you.

As far as inputs go, yes, you should be able to feed Y and C into the inputs you described. You may have to disconnect the input from the demodulator to prevent whatever is coming from it with interfering with your Y/C signals as well. You might also have to do something with the blanking pin (either ground or give +5V) to get an output. Also, if you want to just get composite, you might be able to feed composite video straight into the "demod" pin and run with that. I would still either disconnect the actual demodulator from there or put a switch that you can access to be able to switch it in and out in the event you still want to be able to use the RF input.

Good luck!!!
PimpleCL
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by PimpleCL »

MarkOZLAD wrote:Here's the diagram I've made for my modding method where we share the OSD lines with the external RGB we are inserting. I've left the Ohm values empty on the diagram but it seems 330 Ohms on the inline resistors is a good start. Termination resistors maybe 510 - 620 Ohm but all of this is still to be determined on a set by set basis and requires trial and error by the modder. Seems sometimes the termination resistors aren't even required. My method is to get RGB showing something and then using a breadboard/pots to experiment and find the right combinations. For Sony Trinitrons I'd be throwing 75 Ohm in line and 75 Ohm termination to ground and seeing what happens.

As with anything on this forum, nothing is guaranteed and the person modding the set needs to have patience, determination and resourcefulness to complete the job.

Image

On the diagram I've shown blanking 5V coming from the internal 5V regulator but it could come from the Scart pin 16 blanking. Could build without a switch at all if you wanted. Also a 10K potentiometer on the blanking line, especially during testing, is a good idea to get the blanking voltages worked out.

Also for reference please read Syntax' posts for getting OSD and RGB working together. He uses a similar method but approaches it from the other end where he looks to beef up the OSD rather than toning down the external RGB. He's got great results on Sony sets......I'm pretty sure too that he's got an idea coming up that will blow this one into the weeds!

All constructive criticism welcome. Please post results of your work so we can make the method more prescriptive.

I hope this enables some people to get OSD working alongside the RGB.

oohh, almost forgot...

Big thankyou to 133Mhz on the RetroGames.cl forum for posting this thread about modding his NEX TV with generic Chinese chassis. Even though he did his with an OSD snip method his work coming up with the correct impedance for his set enabled me to progress my current mod and come up with this method. I'd be willing to bet that 133Mhz is better by miles than I am at this caper.


Another note.....

Typically when I mod I don't run lines directly to decoupling capacitors. I'm normally lucky enough to find external RGB inputs on the sets I've encountered. Before you try and solder to capacitors, try inspecting your TVs chassis for these inputs. They are often found as un-populated/unused headers/connectors nearby to the jungle IC. Sometimes these aren't even shown on the schematcis e.g. Connectors 1801 and 1802 I recently identified on a Sony AA-2D chassis. Check out the unused ports on your TV chassis visually and with the multimeter, if they connect to the decoupling capacitors for the Jungle's RGB pins you are in business.
Hi, can you help me to find those connectors 1801 and 1802 on A-2D chassis? the capacitors on this chassis are too little to soldering. thanks
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

PimpleCL wrote:Hi, can you help me to find those connectors 1801 and 1802 on A-2D chassis? the capacitors on this chassis are too little to soldering. thanks
IIRC those connectors are only on some revisions of the AA-2D chassis. They may not be on yours.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
obr
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

Hey, Folks!
I have modded my old Philips tv with RGB input. Picture is very good. I even playing with RetroPie on it! But i have faced a small issue - the "wooden-like" interferences on the screen when RGB mod is active(idk how it's called in English really, it's like a ripple lines on the screen). All cables are shielded, all caps are new and good, i have even put on rgb cables some ferrite rings. BUT - i havent found a 3v3 on the chassis so i used 12v from tv tuner and LM317 to get this 3v3 power on jungle, in other hand i have tested it with 2 AA batteries to activate RGB mod and got same distortion.

You can see those lines on the screens. Circuit is also included. Maybe some people also have faced issue like this? TV Chassis is Philips Anubis S DD(https://elektrotanya.com/philips_chassi ... nload.html)
Jungle is TDA8362(https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... A8362.html)
https://imgur.com/Ri7SS0O https://imgur.com/kaRNNn7 https://imgur.com/PUzR3A9 https://imgur.com/4t47ZLC https://imgur.com/6RBzMTn - its pretty visible on the black background like here
obr
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

Hello again guys!
I have leaved my Philips TV with RGB mod as is (with interferences, they are not visible at the game, so... i think they caused by HV part of power supply or TV Tuner, but i dont have time for it. Its not related to my RGB mod anyway) I have another CRT TV and its Aiwa VX-T1420 its Combo block ( VCR+TV). And i wanna to mod it with RGB. The chassis even has IC TA8751AN - the RGB interface, but schematics from Microcontroller chip are not usual(for me) - it has more resistors and caps in lines than in most of chassis. Maybe someone here had faced with circuits like this? Could you please advice how can i put RGB in here? Schematics and datasheets are here: https://imgur.com/a/WRmy2q5 https://docdro.id/UtnXoI9 https://docdro.id/ILDPYXn Thank you in advance!
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darthcloud
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by darthcloud »

Finaly got around modding my JVC AV-32920, at first I thought this set was 0.5Vpp but using the voltage divider the picture was really dark, so I endup trying regular 75ohm termination and inline resistor, and picture is perfect!!

Amazing, yay finaly RGB on a CRT!

I documented the mod on github:
https://github.com/darthcloud/jvc_ac-32920_rgb_mod
Surfovod
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Surfovod »

Error (Retry message)
Last edited by Surfovod on Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
Surfovod
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Surfovod »

Error (Retry message)
Last edited by Surfovod on Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
mbstone
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mbstone »

Hope this is the right place to ask this question. Thanks for your patience. Looking to RGB mod my NES and my RGB my TV. I'm thinking of using a multiout connector on the NES, but not sure what my options are for the TV. I'd rather not deal with signal converters, but a nice clean cable the plugs into my NES and TV. I think the most common input mod on the TV is scart, but is there another alternative? Are there better options that I'm overlooking? Thanks for all the knowledge and videos.

Thanks in advance.
tongshadow
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2017 5:11 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by tongshadow »

Here to report that adding component to an only composite LG CRT was a success, and pretty easy. Just add the missing components and, in my case, disable the video/audio out to use them as component inputs.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Playing the PS2 on a SDTV with component is the absolute BEST way to enjoy the console.
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Josh128
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Josh128 »

Nice work man, looks great!
obr
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

obr wrote:Hello again guys!
I have leaved my Philips TV with RGB mod as is (with interferences, they are not visible at the game, so... i think they caused by HV part of power supply or TV Tuner, but i dont have time for it. Its not related to my RGB mod anyway) I have another CRT TV and its Aiwa VX-T1420 its Combo block ( VCR+TV). And i wanna to mod it with RGB. The chassis even has IC TA8751AN - the RGB interface, but schematics from Microcontroller chip are not usual(for me) - it has more resistors and caps in lines than in most of chassis. Maybe someone here had faced with circuits like this? Could you please advice how can i put RGB in here? Schematics and datasheets are here: https://imgur.com/a/WRmy2q5 https://docdro.id/UtnXoI9 https://docdro.id/ILDPYXn Thank you in advance!
Wow, just found at jungle UNUSED RGB INPUT PINS(!) so i can just add this input, no hacking!
But there is a chalange - fully disassembly this TV, its hard because of VCR. Damn
Surfovod
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Surfovod »

Hello.
I have a TV Panasonic TC-2155R, with a chassis MX-3C http://gaf.kz/tv/AN.PDF, a video processor AN5192K http://gaf.kz/tv/MX.pdf.
I want to connect a 60-in-1 Chinese gaming board for vertical games.
Image

Connected according to the picture. I picked up all the necessary resistances and ceramic capacitors. The colors are very good, bright, they delight me, but there is one problem - the geometry of the picture is broken (the image is shifted). I read the whole topic, I realized that the reason for this is a comb filter. It is recommended to connect directly to the luma S-video, but I do not have such an input, only composite (AB). I tried to connect directly to Y-in (43) and CHROMA-in (48) there is no effect, I even tried to connect to the contacts of vertical and horizontal synchronization (45,46) (the geometry is not straightened). I would configure the geometry through the service menu, but the original remote is lost, I don’t know how to enter the service menu without it.
I am in despair, ready to throw the TV into the abyss.

Please tell me how to get around this comb filter? are there any methods?
Or maybe it is possible to enter the service menu without the original remote?
I would be grateful for any help
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

obr wrote: Wow, just found at jungle UNUSED RGB INPUT PINS(!) so i can just add this input, no hacking!
I wouldn't turn your brain off yet.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
obr
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
obr wrote: Wow, just found at jungle UNUSED RGB INPUT PINS(!) so i can just add this input, no hacking!
I wouldn't turn your brain off yet.
Take it easy, man - im new on this all CRT modding. Sorry to be noisy. but i have finished with this TV and all is good for now. Just cutted unused pins from GND, added new 100nF caps, add 75Ohm between inputs and GND. 5 volts from 7805 and "voilà" - it works! Picture is so cool and im so happy with it. RetroPie is works too but on different resolution(320x312p50 or 336x249p60, only with it i can get 15khz) than on prev TV(320x240p60), maybe because of Jungle chip.. Im happy with it too. Anyway - Sega Genesis and PSOne works without any tricks
https://imgur.com/c9LxozK https://imgur.com/PDJuJV9 https://imgur.com/SVauE5b https://imgur.com/OmcVdQ5 https://imgur.com/yQZQaCY https://imgur.com/9mGgfCq https://imgur.com/TTBbN6e
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

obr wrote:Take it easy, man - im new on this all CRT modding.
I was just trying to say that just because you've found a text port you shouldn't stop thinking and analysing the circuitry. A lot of the time these text ports are attached to the same circuits as the On Screen Display and you should therefore be using the mux.

obr wrote:Sorry to be noisy.
You have nothing to apologise for. I'm glad you are keen, this is a fun hobby. Great that it worked for you.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
obr
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
obr wrote:Take it easy, man - im new on this all CRT modding.
I was just trying to say that just because you've found a text port you shouldn't stop thinking and analysing the circuitry. A lot of the time these text ports are attached to the same circuits as the On Screen Display and you should therefore be using the mux.

obr wrote:Sorry to be noisy.
You have nothing to apologise for. I'm glad you are keen, this is a fun hobby. Great that it worked for you.
Thanks! It comes from my radio hobby. Later i remembered about my old CRTs TVs from my early childhood (late90s). Philips was easy for modding and disassembly but this TV suffered from some PSU issues, and i dont like all this HV stuff, on this point i tired up.. But later i take this Combo TV from shelf, fixed low voltage parts of PSU, fixed frame scan problems and etc. This TV is very hard for disassembly due to VCR on it and i just scared to broke a case lol(plastic old and fragile, PSU case is broken already) but I made it out and neatly soldered a jungle with new caps. It works more smoothly than "hacked" text menus in others TVs.
I want also get 240p from Raspberry Pi works, i think jungle is just locked for my PAL/SECAM region(Genesis from USA via CVBS works in Black n White on this TV, on Philips it was OK in color, and 240p from PI was OK). PSOne and Genesis with RGB are OK. I will work on it just another chalange
Hope my experince will useful for someone
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maxtherabbit
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

obr wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
obr wrote: Wow, just found at jungle UNUSED RGB INPUT PINS(!) so i can just add this input, no hacking!
I wouldn't turn your brain off yet.
Take it easy, man - im new on this all CRT modding. Sorry to be noisy. but i have finished with this TV and all is good for now. Just cutted unused pins from GND, added new 100nF caps, add 75Ohm between inputs and GND. 5 volts from 7805 and "voilà" - it works! Picture is so cool and im so happy with it. RetroPie is works too but on different resolution(320x312p50 or 336x249p60, only with it i can get 15khz) than on prev TV(320x240p60), maybe because of Jungle chip.. Im happy with it too. Anyway - Sega Genesis and PSOne works without any tricks
https://imgur.com/c9LxozK https://imgur.com/PDJuJV9 https://imgur.com/SVauE5b https://imgur.com/OmcVdQ5 https://imgur.com/yQZQaCY https://imgur.com/9mGgfCq https://imgur.com/TTBbN6e
so does the OSD work when the external RGB is active?
obr
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

maxtherabbit wrote:so does the OSD work when the external RGB is active?
Exactly! I just used some unued ports on jungle for RGB input(I guess this chip also was used on some TVs with SCART input, so thats why it here).
OSD on RGB input:
https://imgur.com/U43NkZv
https://imgur.com/fuRo3hi
https://imgur.com/FxZyBeH

P.S. - Also on photo you can see red switcher on left side of TV - its just a 220v switcher - native was broken, so i made a new one on power cord
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maxtherabbit
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

Alright, nice job
obr
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

Surfovod wrote:Hello.
I have a TV Panasonic TC-2155R, with a chassis MX-3C http://gaf.kz/tv/AN.PDF, a video processor AN5192K http://gaf.kz/tv/MX.pdf.
I want to connect a 60-in-1 Chinese gaming board for vertical games.
Image

Connected according to the picture. I picked up all the necessary resistances and ceramic capacitors. The colors are very good, bright, they delight me, but there is one problem - the geometry of the picture is broken (the image is shifted). I read the whole topic, I realized that the reason for this is a comb filter. It is recommended to connect directly to the luma S-video, but I do not have such an input, only composite (AB). I tried to connect directly to Y-in (43) and CHROMA-in (48) there is no effect, I even tried to connect to the contacts of vertical and horizontal synchronization (45,46) (the geometry is not straightened). I would configure the geometry through the service menu, but the original remote is lost, I don’t know how to enter the service menu without it.
I am in despair, ready to throw the TV into the abyss.

Please tell me how to get around this comb filter? are there any methods?
Or maybe it is possible to enter the service menu without the original remote?
I would be grateful for any help
Could you please show a picture of wrong geometry?
mgerety
Posts: 54
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2018 2:24 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mgerety »

Can someone sanity check a Sharp 25k-S100 mod for me?

Service Manual Link:
https://elektrotanya.com/sharp_25k-m100 ... nload.html

OSD Chip:
Image

Jungle:
Image

Based on these diagrams, it looks like the R, G, B, and Blanking lines have a 6.8k resistor on them, then go directly to the jumgle (IC201) on pins 14-17.

The blanking line has a 3.3K resistor to ground right before going into the jungle chip.
The R, G, and B lines each have a 1.8K resistor to ground, and a 0.1uf cap inline before going into the jungle chip.

Based on the OSD Mux resistor charts, I'm looking at this for a VGA mod:
  • Terminate R, G, B from VGA to ground, 75ohm resistor
  • 1300ohm resistors inline on each of the R, G, and B lines into jungle
What I'm not sure about is what to do with the blanking line, or what to do about the caps inline on the RGB lines.

On the actual schematic diagram it appears I have 4 topside jumpers I can inject on:
Image

However on this diagram ther appears to be diodes in line. Those designators (D2303, D2302, D2301) do not appear in the components list at the end of the service manual. I don't have this TV on hand yet, so I'll have to check if they exist.

So what i could use help on is:
  • Did I choose the right resistor value (1300ohm)?
  • What should I do about blanking?
  • If those diodes are there, how should I adjust?
Thanks in advance for your help
laikmike
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2020 12:01 am
Location: Mexico

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by laikmike »

Hello everyone!, hope you can help me with my TV, I want to make the RGB MOD, but i was checking the diagram of my TV (Panasonic CT-F2128S) in the IC601 chip does not have RGB IN just RGB OUT and I dont know if i can perform the mod on this TV also i think is converting RGB to YUV but Idk...
Hope you can help me
i will add a photo
edit: I dont know if the IC601 is the jungle chip
Image

edit2: here are the diagramshttps://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros ... is_gl1.pdf
Last edited by laikmike on Sat Mar 28, 2020 12:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
obr
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2020 1:56 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

mgerety wrote:Can someone sanity check a Sharp 25k-S100 mod for me?

Service Manual Link:
https://elektrotanya.com/sharp_25k-m100 ... nload.html

OSD Chip:
Image

Jungle:
Image

Based on these diagrams, it looks like the R, G, B, and Blanking lines have a 6.8k resistor on them, then go directly to the jumgle (IC201) on pins 14-17.

The blanking line has a 3.3K resistor to ground right before going into the jungle chip.
The R, G, and B lines each have a 1.8K resistor to ground, and a 0.1uf cap inline before going into the jungle chip.

Based on the OSD Mux resistor charts, I'm looking at this for a VGA mod:
  • Terminate R, G, B from VGA to ground, 75ohm resistor
  • 1300ohm resistors inline on each of the R, G, and B lines into jungle
What I'm not sure about is what to do with the blanking line, or what to do about the caps inline on the RGB lines.

On the actual schematic diagram it appears I have 4 topside jumpers I can inject on:
Image

However on this diagram ther appears to be diodes in line. Those designators (D2303, D2302, D2301) do not appear in the components list at the end of the service manual. I don't have this TV on hand yet, so I'll have to check if they exist.

So what i could use help on is:
  • Did I choose the right resistor value (1300ohm)?
  • What should I do about blanking?
  • If those diodes are there, how should I adjust?
Thanks in advance for your help

Should be good:

New resistors are 75ohm
on the BLK put 3v3 or 5v(read the datasheet)
you can also remove electrolitic caps on the RGB input and put 100nf ceramic caps instead
https://imgur.com/k3VRiio
obr
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2020 1:56 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

laikmike wrote:Hello everyone!, hope you can help me with my TV, I want to make the RGB MOD, but i was checking the diagram of my TV (Panasonic CT-F2128S) in the IC601 chip does not have RGB IN just RGB OUT and I dont know if i can perform the mod on this TV also i think is converting RGB to YUV but Idk...
Hope you can help me
i will add a photo
edit: I dont know if the IC601 is the jungle chip
Image

edit2: here are the diagramshttps://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros ... is_gl1.pdf
I guess(not sure) that jungle and controller are combined in this IC. You can try to connect RGB lines directly to tube (before amps ofcourse)
laikmike
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Location: Mexico

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by laikmike »

obr wrote:
laikmike wrote:Hello everyone!, hope you can help me with my TV, I want to make the RGB MOD, but i was checking the diagram of my TV (Panasonic CT-F2128S) in the IC601 chip does not have RGB IN just RGB OUT and I dont know if i can perform the mod on this TV also i think is converting RGB to YUV but Idk...
Hope you can help me
i will add a photo
edit: I dont know if the IC601 is the jungle chip
Image

edit2: here are the diagramshttps://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros ... is_gl1.pdf
I guess(not sure) that jungle and controller are combined in this IC. You can try to connect RGB lines directly to tube (before amps ofcourse)
Directly to tube is to the pcb behind the tube?
obr
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2020 1:56 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by obr »

laikmike wrote:
obr wrote:
laikmike wrote:Hello everyone!, hope you can help me with my TV, I want to make the RGB MOD, but i was checking the diagram of my TV (Panasonic CT-F2128S) in the IC601 chip does not have RGB IN just RGB OUT and I dont know if i can perform the mod on this TV also i think is converting RGB to YUV but Idk...
Hope you can help me
i will add a photo
edit: I dont know if the IC601 is the jungle chip
Image

edit2: here are the diagramshttps://diagramas.diagramasde.com/otros ... is_gl1.pdf
I guess(not sure) that jungle and controller are combined in this IC. You can try to connect RGB lines directly to tube (before amps ofcourse)
Directly to tube is to the pcb behind the tube?

Here:
https://imgur.com/vclr9UN
You need to cut those lines, also you will need put here also some caps and terminate this input to ground with 75 ohm

Should be good, but you will lose all OSD and TV features
laikmike
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jan 31, 2020 12:01 am
Location: Mexico

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by laikmike »

obr wrote: Here:
https://imgur.com/vclr9UN
You need to cut those lines, also you will need put here also some caps and terminate this input to ground with 75 ohm

Should be good, but you will lose all OSD and TV features
Theres no way i can get OSD with rgb?
about the others tv features i dont mind about it, also which cap do I have to use?

thanks for your replys BTW :D :D :D :D :D
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