Component Switch

[excalibur]

I'm looking for a fairly inexpensive Component Switch that will work for my game consoles that support component, through the framemeister and won't give me a bunch of issues, the options seem to be limited but I ran across one on eBay, link below, but the switcher I'm referring to is the Phillips PH61150. I wonder if anyone has any experience with it, or know If It's a decent option or have any other recommendations.

Thanks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-4-Way- ... SwnyNdPKMe

[H6rdc0re]

I'm looking for a fairly inexpensive Component Switch that will work for my game consoles that support component, through the framemeister and won't give me a bunch of issues, the options seem to be limited but I ran across one on eBay, I wonder if anyone has any experience with it, or know If It's a decent option or have any other recommendations.

Thanks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-4-Way- ... SwnyNdPKMe

You can also look for the 3-way component switch from Impact Acoustics. Depending how many consoles you have using component I would just say save up for a Gcompsw 8:2 from SuperG. Perhaps someone on here is willing to you their Gcompsw 4:1 in order to upgrade to the Gcompsw 8:2.

[nmalinoski]

I use an Audio Authority 1154A in conjunction with an OSSC. It's a 4x1 automatic component switcher that also switches TOSLINK and coax S/PDIF. (I run TOSLINK around the OSSC, straight into my AVR.)

If you care about automatic switching, do note that the gcompsw's switching logic is first-detected (so, if you have an always-on YPbPr device, the gcompsw won't switch to anything else until that source is turned off or disconnected), whereas the 1154A (and possibly other component switchers) will switch based on port priority (a newly-detected source on port 2 will take precedence over any connected sources on port 3 or 4).

[evil_ash_xero]

I use two C2G 40697. It's a 6x2 Component Switch, but it's not too cheap. I've looked for it on Amazon, where I got mine, but it's gone.

I found this on EBay, but the box looks way different from mine, but the numbers are all the same. You may want to make sure it's a 6x2 switch.
It's really good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cables-to- ... Sww69dOijs

[fernan1234]

If you care about automatic switching, do note that the gcompsw's switching logic is first-detected (so, if you have an always-on YPbPr device, the gcompsw won't switch to anything else until that source is turned off or disconnected), whereas the 1154A (and possibly other component switchers) will switch based on port priority (a newly-detected source on port 2 will take precedence over any connected sources on port 3 or 4).

Port priority is what makes the most sense by far so it's no surprise that it's the standard across most products. It's confusing why first-detected would be used, it just seems like a source of inconvenience.

[Bratwurst]

Otaku-Games has a scart/component switch with the appropriate RCA type inputs/output:

Bare PCB:
https://otaku-games.com/6-port-rgb-scar ... witch.html

With housing:
https://otaku-games.com/6-port-rgb-scar ... using.html

[nmalinoski]

If you care about automatic switching, do note that the gcompsw's switching logic is first-detected (so, if you have an always-on YPbPr device, the gcompsw won't switch to anything else until that source is turned off or disconnected), whereas the 1154A (and possibly other component switchers) will switch based on port priority (a newly-detected source on port 2 will take precedence over any connected sources on port 3 or 4).

Port priority is what makes the most sense by far so it's no surprise that it's the standard across most products. It's confusing why first-detected would be used, it just seems like a source of inconvenience.

superg said (back when the gcompsw was first announced) that it made for a simpler design, or a simpler BOM--something to that effect.

Personally, I think it's a little odd that the gscartsw and gcompsw don't share the same switching logic.

[maxtherabbit]

Extron made a single rack unit switch that supports RGBHV/RGBS/YPbPr over BNC connections with analog audio and auto switching

SW6 RGBHV A, they come up from time to time on ebay for cheap

[nmalinoski]

Extron made a single rack unit switch that supports RGBHV/RGBS/YPbPr over BNC connections with analog audio and auto switching

SW6 RGBHV A, they come up from time to time on ebay for cheap

The 1U VGA switchers from the same line will switch all of those as well, and I believe both models will also switch composite video and S-Video.

[Guspaz]

I have an Audio Authority 1154A, and the "port priority" approach that they use is very unreliable with lots of side effects. If it ever thinks that a port has become inactive (even if it really is active), it will switch back to the default port, even if there is no signal on the default port. Even if you try to manually select it, there is a timeout (10 or 15 minutes, I can't remember) on manual port selections made with the buttons. It's the sort of product that might work well with traditional video, but really isn't well suited for retro gaming.

[nmalinoski]

I have an Audio Authority 1154A, and the "port priority" approach that they use is very unreliable with lots of side effects. If it ever thinks that a port has become inactive (even if it really is active), it will switch back to the default port, even if there is no signal on the default port. Even if you try to manually select it, there is a timeout (10 or 15 minutes, I can't remember) on manual port selections made with the buttons. It's the sort of product that might work well with traditional video, but really isn't well suited for retro gaming.

I haven't experienced that behavior with the automatic switching (and I leave mine on auto, so I can't speak to the manual selection timeout). Did you ever do the reinitialization procedure specified in the manual?

[Guspaz]

I can't remember, to be honest. Probably not. However, not long after, I replaced the Audio Authority switch with a 4:1 gcompsw, which never gave me any problems and always correctly automatically switched to whichever device I turned on instantly. I've got an 8:2 gcompsw in the mail to replace the 4:1 (though the 4:1 could serve as a future expansion).

[Einzelherz]

I'm using a similar Phillips component switch (two, actually). They're both passive/unpowered and I've had nothing but great things to say about them. I only link them directly to the TVs though, so I can't comment putting them through other units.

[geiger9]

I'm in the market for a new component switch but I see that the gcompsw lite (the one with 4 inputs) is discontinued. $200 for an 8 way switch when I only need 4 is excessive. I saw a previous user mention the Otaku Games 6 port SCART/Component switch. Has anyone purchased one of these? What did you think? Is there anything close to the gcompsw lite?

[brentsg]

They weren't budget devices but if you can find an older Zektor component switch they were made like tanks.

[Taiyaki]

I have a 4 to 1 GE manufactured component switch box that works great. Amazon stilll has a few in stock via third party vendors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A ... UTF8&psc=1

Never had any issue with it, it's pretty compact and doesn't seem to have any video loss, at least nothing that would be visible on a crt.

[Josh128]

+1 for the Audio Authority 1154A. Rock solid, no signal degredation, switches like a champ. Have not had any of the issues described above, its a solid performer.

[nmalinoski]

+1 for the Audio Authority 1154A. Rock solid, no signal degredation, switches like a champ. Have not had any of the issues described above, its a solid performer.

From what I've read, it's the original 1154 that had some shielding problems that caused odd switching behavior, which was rectified with the 1154A (and I think there's an 1154A1, but I'm not sure what differences there are with that one). I have a NIB 1154B that I've yet to crack open, but I expect it will be the same. There are also 6-port ones in the same style as the 1154B, the 1156 and 1166 (Adds DVI); but I think those are going to be even more difficult to come by at a good price.

I think the biggest problem with the Audio Authority switchers is that, even though they seem to be very good, they're discontinued and getting more difficult to find as time goes on.

[Josh128]

+1 for the Audio Authority 1154A. Rock solid, no signal degredation, switches like a champ. Have not had any of the issues described above, its a solid performer.

From what I've read, it's the original 1154 that had some shielding problems that caused odd switching behavior, which was rectified with the 1154A (and I think there's an 1154A1, but I'm not sure what differences there are with that one). I have a NIB 1154B that I've yet to crack open, but I expect it will be the same. There are also 6-port ones in the same style as the 1154B, the 1156 and 1166 (Adds DVI); but I think those are going to be even more difficult to come by at a good price.

I think the biggest problem with the Audio Authority switchers is that, even though they seem to be very good, they're discontinued and getting more difficult to find as time goes on.

Actually, after reading your post above, I went look at my AA switch, and its the original 1154 non-A model. My previous post still stands for my 1154. The only quirk Ive found with it is that sometimes, rarely, after a power outage or blink it stops auto-switching, but after a power cycle its good to go. This has maybe happened 3 or 4 times in the 6 years Ive owned the switch, and its been powered on and connected the entire time.

[Taiyaki]

Actually, after reading your post above, I went look at my AA switch, and its the original 1154 non-A model. My previous post still stands for my 1154. The only quirk Ive found with it is that sometimes, rarely, after a power outage or blink it stops auto-switching, but after a power cycle its good to go. This has maybe happened 3 or 4 times in the 6 years Ive owned the switch, and its been powered on and connected the entire time.

That's been my experience with almost all automatic switchers that were not the gscartsw. Which is why for anything not made by SuperG I pretty much favor passive. They're usually completely lossless too and give you the freedom of switching as required and knowing that it will work. If I were to upgrade I'd probably go for the gcompsw, looks like a beast and the ultimate solution, the price is high though of course.

[Josh128]

Actually, after reading your post above, I went look at my AA switch, and its the original 1154 non-A model. My previous post still stands for my 1154. The only quirk Ive found with it is that sometimes, rarely, after a power outage or blink it stops auto-switching, but after a power cycle its good to go. This has maybe happened 3 or 4 times in the 6 years Ive owned the switch, and its been powered on and connected the entire time.

That's been my experience with almost all automatic switchers that were not the gscartsw. Which is why for anything not made by SuperG I pretty much favor passive. They're usually completely lossless too and give you the freedom of switching as required and knowing that it will work. If I were to upgrade I'd probably go for the gcompsw, looks like a beast and the ultimate solution, the price is high though of course.

I had really bad experiences with passive / manual switchers in the past. Signal degradation and /or noise introduction. The 1154 has neither. As far as 1154 vs gcompsw, you can still snag 1154s for under $50 shipped on Ebay. As long as you can get one around that range they are by far a better deal than the gcompsw @ $165+.

[kitty666cats]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Manual ... 2021416391

Anyone tried these manual Philips ones? It appears that RCA RGBS may be possible.

I know RCA RGBS/RGBHV are no problem with my Audio Authority 985U, but that is a distribution amp... has anyone done the same with their switches?

[Pikkon]

I use to have that same Philips switcher and I would stay away from it,the buttons on mine would get stuck then eventually stop working altogether.

I got the Philips PH61150 component switcher a few years ago used and that thing works great,if you can find one for a good price I would recommend it.

[Josh128]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Manual ... 2021416391

Anyone tried these manual Philips ones? It appears that RCA RGBS may be possible.

I know RCA RGBS/RGBHV are no problem with my Audio Authority 985U, but that is a distribution amp... has anyone done the same with their switches?

I also had one and its the reason why I dont care for manual switches. It introduced noise into the output. Wii games had visible jailbar type interference with it. Its the reason I got my AA years ago.

[Taiyaki]

If the Philips one is known to introduce noise I recommend the GE one I linked to above. I have done comparisons with a straight connection to the tv vs using the switch box, and I found no discernible difference of any kind. Buttons never get stuck either. It's a very solid manual switch box.

[AceFan84]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Manual ... 2021416391

Anyone tried these manual Philips ones? It appears that RCA RGBS may be possible.

I know RCA RGBS/RGBHV are no problem with my Audio Authority 985U, but that is a distribution amp... has anyone done the same with their switches?

I have had two of these Philips switchers for years and have had a good experience with them BUT I don't notice picture noise as easily as other people do so I wouldn't doubt that they introduce some. If you can tolerate a slightly interfered with picture then they are a good cheap option IMO, I've never had the buttons stick on me or anything mechanically wrong but YMMV.

[Taiyaki]

Honestly I doubt one could spot interference on the crt if the switch box is good. I have had a bad switch box that cause horizontal lines to move around but that was not of quality clearly.

[Taiyaki]

Reviving this thread to say my best passive switch finally died and I moved over to the Audio Authority 1154A.

I was clearly wrong on this front and admit that clearly passive switches just aren’t built as well no matter how good they may seem at first.

[Guile]

Does anyone have an Audio Authority 1154A and a Mister with analog output? I was testing an 1154A and it would drop the picture for a split second on screen transitions like in Mario Bros. on the NES core with component output.

I tried it with the NES emulator on a Wii and it didn't drop.

I haven't tried messing with the internal switches but I suspect it wouldn't make a difference. Can anyone confirm this behavior?