Fudoh's ode to old display technology

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Dochartaigh
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Dochartaigh »

davidwhangchoi wrote:that's actually all marketing. all the PVM/BVM of the models above are the same tubes and line count.

it was Sony marketing that created those numbers. so getting a 20G1E, it's the same tube being used as the 20F1U, 20m4u.

d24 is a legit different tube and 1000 lines.

No, the 800, 900, 1000 TV Line BVM models use different tubes, as seen in the service manuals: 20E1 1000TVL is 8-736-376-05. 20F1 900TVL is 8-736-375-05. 20G1 800TVL is 8-736-378-05 (some variation on region, but still all different numbers).

I think you're confusing it that they can be INTERCHANGEABLE with each other from a spare-parts perspective - that is different than them being the same exact part.



davidwhangchoi wrote: i can't comment on the 20E.

the 20G/F you quoted stated different tv lines: 800 vs. 900 lines. They are not. they are both share the same tube as the 20m4u and each other.
No, again. Per the 20M4 service manual (most are free to download here btw) the M4 tube is 8-736-381-05 (or 379-05 in some other countries) - neither are the same tube as any of the above 3x BVM's. Again, if they could be used as a spare part could very well be true - just won't be the same grade of tube.
davidwhangchoi
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by davidwhangchoi »

Dochartaigh wrote:
davidwhangchoi wrote:that's actually all marketing. all the PVM/BVM of the models above are the same tubes and line count.

it was Sony marketing that created those numbers. so getting a 20G1E, it's the same tube being used as the 20F1U, 20m4u.

d24 is a legit different tube and 1000 lines.

No, the 800, 900, 1000 TV Line BVM models use different tubes, as seen in the service manuals: 20E1 1000TVL is 8-736-376-05. 20F1 900TVL is 8-736-375-05. 20G1 is 8-736-378-05 (some variation on region, but still all different numbers)

I think you're confusing it that they're INTERCHANGEABLE with each other from a spare-parts perspective - that is different then them being the same exact part

davidwhangchoi wrote: i can't comment on the 20E.

the 20G/F you quoted stated different tv lines: 800 vs. 900 lines. They are not. they are both share the same tube as the 20m4u and each other.
No, again. Per the 20M4 service manual (most are free to download here btw) the M4 tube is 8-736-381-05 (or 379-05 in some other countries) - neither are the same tube as any of the above 3x BVM's. Again, if they could be used as a spare part could very well be true - just won't be the same grade of tube.
Thanks dochartaigh, i was looking up the service manual again and you beat me to it. they are interchangeable and they are also the same tubes. they are numbered by region and tiered by quality but the same tube. I'll hold off on commenting on the 20E specs of 1000 line claim

but I'm 100% sure about the G1 and F1. There is no difference in line count between the two.

and you can also add in the 20L5 being newer with an entire different number vs. the 20m4u and f1u, being newer but the same line count as the g1, f1, 20m4u.
Dochartaigh
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Dochartaigh »

davidwhangchoi wrote: Thanks dochartaigh, i was looking up the service manual again and you beat me to it. they are interchangeable and they are also the same tubes. they are numbered by region and tiered by quality but the same tube. I'll hold off on commenting on the 20E specs of 1000 line claim

but I'm 100% sure about the G1 and F1. There is no difference in line count between the two.

and you can also add in the 20L5 being newer with an entire different number as the 20m4u and f1u being newer but the same line count as the g1, f1, 20m4u.
It's all about grading. Many of these were produced (so 'they' say) using the same exact techniques and parts, same assembly. They get graded, just like a diamond does. The ones able to resolve the highest resolutions (or I guess with the lowest amount of perceived defects) went into the 20E1E, the rest into the others in order of their tier (i.e. assumed lower TVL count models).

To 99.9999999% of us, we're not going to see a darn difference (even between a 800TVL set to a 1000 TVL set). Just like the grading of the tube making one 'better' than another back in the day, right now at this point in time it's ALL going to come down to condition, calibration, and yes, personal preference (many people don't like BVM's because they commonly don't have the overtly saturated colors -i.e. unrealistic colors some other sets seem to be more tinged with...or are simply 'calibrated' to).
davidwhangchoi
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by davidwhangchoi »

Dochartaigh wrote:
davidwhangchoi wrote: Thanks dochartaigh, i was looking up the service manual again and you beat me to it. they are interchangeable and they are also the same tubes. they are numbered by region and tiered by quality but the same tube. I'll hold off on commenting on the 20E specs of 1000 line claim

but I'm 100% sure about the G1 and F1. There is no difference in line count between the two.

and you can also add in the 20L5 being newer with an entire different number as the 20m4u and f1u being newer but the same line count as the g1, f1, 20m4u.
It's all about grading. Many of these were produced (so 'they' say) using the same exact techniques and parts, same assembly. They get graded, just like a diamond does. The ones able to resolve the highest resolutions (or I guess with the lowest amount of perceived defects) went into the 20E1E, the rest into the others in order of their tier (i.e. assumed lower TVL count models).

To 99.9999999% of us, we're not going to see a darn difference (even between a 800TVL set to a 1000 TVL set). Just like the grading of the tube making one 'better' than another back in the day, right now at this point in time it's ALL going to come down to condition, calibration, and yes, personal preference (many people don't like BVM's because they commonly don't have the overtly saturated colors -i.e. unrealistic colors some other sets seem to be more tinged with...or are simply 'calibrated' to).
the grading part I 100% agree. Everything you said is spot on.

the line count is the part that is total marketing BS by Sony,

Another prime example which i wrote about long ago was Sony marketing the 500 line 14n6u and 20n6u sets while the 14m2u /20m2u are marketed as 600 line sets. It's total B.S.. It's the same tube and line count. This example the parts numbers totally match up and are identical between the two without any region or tier level grading. they both use the same exact tube. this tube specifically has the dark anti glare unlike the 800 (or claimed 900) line tubes.

Yet one is marketed as 500 lines and the other magically 600 lines. I've even seen youtubers claiming they see the difference in lines when it's the same tube.

btw, i own all these sets and taken them apart. 14n6u and own (2x) 14m2u's, a 20m2u, 20m4u, 20g1u, and f1u.
Dochartaigh
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Dochartaigh »

davidwhangchoi wrote:the line count is the part that is total marketing BS by Sony,

Another prime example which i wrote about long ago was Sony marketing the 500 line 14n6u and 20n6u sets while the 14m2u /20m2u are marketed as 600 line sets. It's total B.S.. It's the same tube and line count. This example the parts numbers totally match up and are identical between the two without any region or tier level grading. they both use the same exact tube.

Yet one is marketed as 500 lines and the other magically 600 lines. I've even seen youtubers claiming they see the difference in lines when it's the same tube. this tube specifically has the dark anti glare unlike the 800 (or claimed 900) line tubes.
Something which might explain that is something which I'm not even going to pretend I know, or even comprehend in the least, but the old heads who know a billion times more about CRT's say it's so, but somehow the TVL count is NOT made SOLELY by the tube itself. It's the other electronics along with it. Now in my head, and being totally logical in my eyes, I always thought this was dictated solely by the grill itself, as in how many super tiny slots or holes it has...but contrary to how I think things work in my head, somehow they say that's not true....I still simply don't get it, but that is something that can add fuel to the fire that it's 'not all about the tube'.

For example, for the N series, I've owned 15x PVM-14N/20N's, and 16x PVM-14M/20M2's (yup, I just counted ;) and I've never seen a N-series be as good looking as the M series (well, like non-jacked up ones of each model type...I've seen good N's beat an ancient/aged M series of course), even when right next to each other, and even when taken from the same studio where one or more of each were calibrated/tuned together back in the late aughts per their service records - even when both are running RGBS.
davidwhangchoi
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by davidwhangchoi »

Dochartaigh wrote:
davidwhangchoi wrote:the line count is the part that is total marketing BS by Sony,

Another prime example which i wrote about long ago was Sony marketing the 500 line 14n6u and 20n6u sets while the 14m2u /20m2u are marketed as 600 line sets. It's total B.S.. It's the same tube and line count. This example the parts numbers totally match up and are identical between the two without any region or tier level grading. they both use the same exact tube.

Yet one is marketed as 500 lines and the other magically 600 lines. I've even seen youtubers claiming they see the difference in lines when it's the same tube. this tube specifically has the dark anti glare unlike the 800 (or claimed 900) line tubes.
Something I'm not even going to pretend I know, but somehow the TVL count is NOT made SOLELY by the tube itself. It's the other electronics along with it. Now in my head, and being totally logical in my eyes, I always thought this was dictated solely by the grill itself, as in how many super tiny slots or holes it has...but contrary to how I think things work in my head, evidentially that's not true....there's a couple quotes from Savon Pat around going into this, and some other techs too (i.e. people who know these a billion times better than my very limited knowledge). I still simply don't get it, which can add claim that it's not all about the tube.

For the N series, I've owned 15x PVM-14N/20N's, and 16x PVM-14M/20M2's (yup, I just counted ;) and I've never seen a N-series be as good looking as the M series (well, like non-jacked up ones of each model type...I've seen good N's beat an ancient/aged M series of course), even when right next to each other, and even when taken from the same studio where one or more of each were calibrated/tuned together back in the late aughts per their service records - even when both are running RGBS.
Yes, it's funny that you mention it. After discovering the tubes myself a year ago (was doing a few repairs and randomly discovered matching tube numbers for different models), a few months ago Savon Pat also made claims they are the same tubes and line count between the 20L5 and the D20F1U, that are graded by tiers.
SamIAm
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by SamIAm »

For what it's worth, I own a KX-29HV3, which is a Japan-only consumer-aimed repackaging of the PVM-2950Q. Both monitors have the same chassis and casing, the same tube, and many of the same electronics. Interestingly, the KX-29HV3 is described as having an 800 line tube in Sony literature, while the PVM-2950Q is described as having 600. Both use the M68KUZ10X tube.

I do suspect that the PVMs got the "good" tubes and the KX sets got the "not so good" tubes off the production line. How they justify the TVL numbers being different, I really can't say.
Dochartaigh wrote:Something which might explain that is something which I'm not even going to pretend I know, or even comprehend in the least, but the old heads who know a billion times more about CRT's say it's so, but somehow the TVL count is NOT made SOLELY by the tube itself. It's the other electronics along with it. Now in my head, and being totally logical in my eyes, I always thought this was dictated solely by the grill itself, as in how many super tiny slots or holes it has...but contrary to how I think things work in my head, somehow they say that's not true....I still simply don't get it, but that is something that can add fuel to the fire that it's 'not all about the tube'.
Not aiming my skepticism at you in particular, but barring extraordinary evidence I think I'm going to refuse to believe this. It flies in the face of everything I know about CRTs. The surrounding electronics could certainly make a difference in the system's overall frequency response for the incoming signal, with some monitors not resolving high-frequency pixels as well as others (e.g. the Saturn's 14MHz pixel clock for high-res games). However, strictly speaking, TVL should be referring to the density of phosphor-groups on the face of the tube and literally nothing else.
Last edited by SamIAm on Fri Oct 11, 2019 7:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
SuperSpongo
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by SuperSpongo »

SamIAm wrote:For what it's worth, I own a KX-29HV3 [...]
A little off topic but dude! The Japanese model has the same remote as the super rare 2950Q remote. I bet they are interchangable. Might be worth for some to import one of these badboys from Japan :-)

RM-J138

EDIT: Well, they're not totally the same, but close enough. To compare, google image searach: RM-854
SamIAm
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by SamIAm »

SuperSpongo wrote:
SamIAm wrote:For what it's worth, I own a KX-29HV3 [...]
A little off topic but dude! The Japanese model has the same remote as the super rare 2950Q remote. I bet they are interchangable. Might be worth for some to import one of these badboys from Japan :-)

RM-J138

EDIT: Well, they're not totally the same, but close enough. To compare, google image searach: RM-854
At a glance, the remotes do look pretty similar.

One major difference between the KX set and the PVM is the internal menu. The KX set has a pretty typical consumer menu, with a few presets and limited calibration options unless you use a code to access a service mode. I've never used the PVM, but just looking at screenshots tells me that it's quite different. I think that the number of inputs available are different, too: the KX set has four composite/s-video inputs plus a JP21 RGB input while the PVM looks like it has only two composite/s-video inputs and one set of RGB/YUV inputs via BNC.

The KX set doesn't take PAL/SECAM signals, either, FWIW.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by SuperSpongo »

Yeah, I just did a closer inspection myself.
Spoiler
Image
The reason I was so excited is that in order to use the service menu on a PVM/PGM2950, you need two buttons that are rather specific to this remote, one of them being the "11" or "12" button (I can't remember off the top of my head). This remote actually has the button as well. I think MUTE, Display and 12 were important to make adjustments and be able to save them to EEPROM.
davidwhangchoi
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by davidwhangchoi »

Hey guys,
just looking around, if anyone has spare parts for a d24, i'm looking for the d24 video module card:
Image
Image

as i need a replacement or a refurbished part. if anyone happens to have one or know someone with d24 parts or a d24 that doesn't work, shoot me a pm. And thank you for the previous pm's for prior help.

David
tongshadow
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by tongshadow »

Got a new CRT monitor, the LG F700P. It's a 17" incher capable of going as high as 1920x1440 out of the box, so it packs a serious punch for something of its size. It uses a Slot Mask instead of the far more common Shadow Mask, and here are some pictures comparing it to my old Samsung (shadow mask). Guess which one makes those pixels even sharper.

https://i.imgur.com/72x5kTZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/54RfBpn.jpg
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by thchardcore »

For Fudoh (or anyone else that knows):

I have issues with line doubler and my VGA CRTs. I love my monitors as they are large (22 and 21 inch flat models) that have geometry that almost approaches an LCD and no blooming.

What kind of video processor or scaler am I looking for that is low lag and will allow for vga/bnc output for chaining to my XRGB1/DISPL/OSSC in it order to framelock the output? The VP30 with ABT 102 or a VP50 Pro seem to be what I am after but can anyone confirm or recommend another device?
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Fudoh
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Fudoh »

Why do you think you need a secondary processor?

Output of all three machines (XRGB, DISPL and OSSC) is already frame locked and your display will sync to all output resolutions available on these machines. For the XRGB or DISPL you merely need a VGA to BNC cable. For the OSSC you need a $20 DAC (HDMI to VGA).
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Cannonballs »

I just picked up a widescreen Sony hd crt. Besides general gunk around the top and sides of the tv (looks like we had an indoor smoker) it looks like the wrong cleaner was used on the screen. What’s the best cleaner to use on crt monitor screens? This is a flat screen wega crt if it matters, and I believe there is an anti glare coating as well.
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orange808
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by orange808 »

Cannonballs wrote:I just picked up a widescreen Sony hd crt. Besides general gunk around the top and sides of the tv (looks like we had an indoor smoker) it looks like the wrong cleaner was used on the screen. What’s the best cleaner to use on crt monitor screens? This is a flat screen wega crt if it matters, and I believe there is an anti glare coating as well.
Do you have a Time Sleuth? I don't plan to ever own one, but it would be interesting to know how they actually perform.
We apologise for the inconvenience
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by thchardcore »

Fudoh wrote:Why do you think you need a secondary processor?

Output of all three machines (XRGB, DISPL and OSSC) is already frame locked and your display will sync to all output resolutions available on these machines. For the XRGB or DISPL you merely need a VGA to BNC cable. For the OSSC you need a $20 DAC (HDMI to VGA).
I think my choice of terms was wrong. Let me clarify, the issue is certain boards showing flagging or skewing ob the top. My understanding was that a DVDO processor would allow me to convert the refresh rate to something standard that my monitor could then display correctly. I gathered this from reading old posts at the AVS forum between you and xyga.
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Fudoh
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Fudoh »

Right. I didn't link your posting to your other thread.

I don't think that a DVDO is more flexible in terms of input refresh rates than a current Extron machine and since you don't need any of the deinterlacing features or all the other home theater "features", I'd first try an Extron 301 first. The Extron has a VGA input for the XRGB and a HDMI input for your OSSC. Output is HDMI only, but that's easily converted to VGA for your monitor. The Extron let's you unlock the refresh rate (and get a 100% on spec NTSC or VESA refresh rate as a result) and you can either rescale the output or just pass the input resolution.

But overall I'm not really sure if this would help your situation. Your CRT should sync to anything between 54 and 100+ Hz just fine. It's not like a TV, where 59.1Hz would suddenly cause a problem.

So, a secondary processor is certainly worth a try, but unless you confirm it as working, it's really just a try.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by thchardcore »

Thank you. I appreciate the detailed reply and steering me from expensive purchases that may not solve the issue. It might just be both displays (Viewsonic P220f and Sony CPD 540) as late model VGAs are not very flexible with respect to sync rates.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by fernan1234 »

Cannonballs wrote:I just picked up a widescreen Sony hd crt. Besides general gunk around the top and sides of the tv (looks like we had an indoor smoker) it looks like the wrong cleaner was used on the screen. What’s the best cleaner to use on crt monitor screens? This is a flat screen wega crt if it matters, and I believe there is an anti glare coating as well.
I did this like a dumbass once, the coating got smeared all over the glass. I think I just had to wipe the hell out of it with paper towel or some other coarse-enough material and eventually it looked even again.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Cannonballs »

fernan1234 wrote:
Cannonballs wrote:I just picked up a widescreen Sony hd crt. Besides general gunk around the top and sides of the tv (looks like we had an indoor smoker) it looks like the wrong cleaner was used on the screen. What’s the best cleaner to use on crt monitor screens? This is a flat screen wega crt if it matters, and I believe there is an anti glare coating as well.
I did this like a dumbass once, the coating got smeared all over the glass. I think I just had to wipe the hell out of it with paper towel or some other coarse-enough material and eventually it looked even again.
What did you use?
orange808 wrote:
Cannonballs wrote:I just picked up a widescreen Sony hd crt. Besides general gunk around the top and sides of the tv (looks like we had an indoor smoker) it looks like the wrong cleaner was used on the screen. What’s the best cleaner to use on crt monitor screens? This is a flat screen wega crt if it matters, and I believe there is an anti glare coating as well.
Do you have a Time Sleuth? I don't plan to ever own one, but it would be interesting to know how they actually perform.
No I don’t but I’m curious too.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by FinalBaton »

New place (and monitor), so it's time for a new retro gaming setup. The modus operandi here was : "must look good, integrate well with the living room(will stay there) and allow for couch gaming". So I got a cool (and cheap)little tv stand, through the classifieds; piled my most-played games right on it (put the rest in the main-tv stand's drawer), put a couple consoles in and got it setup clean and neat. Very happy with it so far. that setup has got me pumped to play, and I like how it fits in the living room, furniture/deco-wise. Feels good to finally have figured out the placement of my retro-gaming stuff

Image

By having my games on there(what you see there represents ALL of the games displayed in my living room) it means I won't have to display them on a half of a bookshelf with other medias like films or music. had it setup like that at the old place and I always thought that looked like a rando mish mash of stuff and I wasn't happy with it. now my media shelves will be more consistant. And my games are easier to access as a result

Could have squeezed in a few more consoles in there but the air flow situation would have been bad, plus I think 4 consoles look good in there. I'm gonna swap in my 2 other fave consoles(NES and Dreamcast) as need be, I don't mind it as I usually focus on a console or two at a time for decent stretches, so swapping shouldn't be frequent.
The NES' powersupply is plugged in and chilling there behind the SNES, and since they both use the same RGB cable it'll be a cinch to swap it in. Dreamcast psu and RGB cable is also hanging behing the Saturn for a quick swap. my Japanese PS2 can be very easily swaped in as well. All systems play japanese games.

Image

The back looks pretty damn clean too. Those 2 wires on the floor go to the wall outlet and have a velcro strip on them to tie up they excess lenght.
All consoles plugged into a power strip that resides inside the tv stand. all excess RGB cables are tightly rolled together and tied well with velcro strips, and that non-messy loop is stored there behind the PS2, with the SCART-to-BNC adapter dangling just right by it so that the cable loop can stay there and I can still plug all my RGB cables into the adapter.

I chose to not use a switcher/matrix, because I honestly don't mind unplugging my SCART cables, and also there's not really enough space left in the TV stand(which is the only spot to put it in for a clean look). Less components/wires make for a cleaner look tho, and as a result when I look through the front of the TV stand it looks really clean, not at all crammed with wires and other stuff. very baren, which looks super clean and open.

Image

This is no impressive cable management or anything, and there's not a metric ton of consoles ready to fire up at any time, but it still suits my needs perfectly : It's clean, looks good, fits with the room and it allows me to game from the couch by rolling it closer some. That's an excellent setup for me at the moment.

I'll put some figurines on top of the monitor and that'll be a pretty cute remote game center :mrgreen: it'll brighten the living room too. hell it already looks quite good in the corner as is!
Last edited by FinalBaton on Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:27 am, edited 16 times in total.
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fernan1234
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by fernan1234 »

Cannonballs wrote:What did you use?
It may have been Windex, which is what first damaged the AR coating. I don't remember if that's what I used to completely remove it of it it was just wet paper and elbow grease.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by kel »

fernan1234 wrote:
Cannonballs wrote:What did you use?
It may have been Windex, which is what first damaged the AR coating. I don't remember if that's what I used to completely remove it of it it was just wet paper and elbow grease.
Depending on which country you are in you may have to find a similar alternative but in my experience Hob Brite ceramic hob cleaner will easily remove the damaged AR coating.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Ikaruga11 »

It's way faster, easier, cleaner, more efficient and cheaper to just open up the monitor and remove the entire anti-glare film.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by fernan1234 »

GeneraLight wrote:It's way faster, easier, cleaner, more efficient and cheaper to just open up the monitor and remove the entire anti-glare film.
On the HD CRT that Cannonballs was talking about the AR coating is sprayed on the glass. It's not a solid film you can peel off.
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sliceypete
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by sliceypete »

Hey guys,

I stumbled upon someone selling a Barco cvm 3051 near me for a very reasonable price (<$100) and I am going to pick it up this weekend.

Unfortunately I could not find much information on this tube via googling, but it seems to be a decent set.

Anyone out there have the manual to this set? or tips on setup?

What the best way to connect my SCART sources? also any way to connect my dreamcast via VGA on this thing?

Sorry for all the question and thanks for the help guys!
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by vol.2 »

Anyone know how the extron emotias handle VGA 320x200 to 240p scaling?
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Fudoh
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Fudoh »

yes, 31khz 640x400 is supported, but I guess the 400 lines are converted to full 240 lines, so you don't get a 1:1 line mapping of your original 200 lines to the 240p output.

If you want a proper 1:1 line conversion you can use a processor like the 301 in between, which maps the 640x400 PC output into 640x480 signal with 40 black lines on top and bottom and route the resulting signal into an Emotia.
Cannonballs
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Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2018 8:29 pm

Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology

Post by Cannonballs »

kel wrote:
fernan1234 wrote:
Cannonballs wrote:What did you use?
It may have been Windex, which is what first damaged the AR coating. I don't remember if that's what I used to completely remove it of it it was just wet paper and elbow grease.
Depending on which country you are in you may have to find a similar alternative but in my experience Hob Brite ceramic hob cleaner will easily remove the damaged AR coating.
I am importing some, if you could let me know your method for removal that would be great.
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