leonk wrote:^^^ image broken
Fixed the image link.
leonk wrote:^^^ image broken
Even with no sync you should at least get a rolling Image on a crt. If using ossc or gscart then you wint as they need sync to process signal.radaxian91 wrote:Hey guys,
I've installed the borti RGB Bypass board into a 1CHIP PAL SNES but I can't get any output. The instructions say to take CSYNC from pin 151 but that didn't work. I've also tried taking CSYNC directly off the S-RGB chip pin 18 with no luck.
I've followed the instructions here but they don't seem to work... or I've missed something.
Removed so far -
R15, R16 and R17 from the SNES mainboard
R28 and D1
Excuse my long test wires...
[/img]
Thanks for that.borti4938 wrote:This is a modified version of the GitHub repo, to make the overall usability more comfortable for the end-user while having a single design.
He has to close J3 for getting CSYNC passed to the MultiAV pin 3: https://www.videogameperfection.com/pro ... ypass-amp/
And by the way: S-CPUN pin 151 has an easy access at the bottom side
What is your setup like? Are you going straight to a PVM or some kind of upscaler?radaxian91 wrote:Thanks for that.borti4938 wrote:This is a modified version of the GitHub repo, to make the overall usability more comfortable for the end-user while having a single design.
He has to close J3 for getting CSYNC passed to the MultiAV pin 3: https://www.videogameperfection.com/pro ... ypass-amp/
And by the way: S-CPUN pin 151 has an easy access at the bottom side
J2 and J3 were quite unclear from the instructions, but on that new link you sent I see what you mean.
So with J3 closed I now get sync, but still no image.
The RGB points are taken from the vias as in the photo.
FYI - Using this cable wired for TTL pass through sync - https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... gold-scart
unmaker wrote: What is your setup like? Are you going straight to a PVM or some kind of upscaler?
Probably notGeneraLight wrote:Do I need a low-pass filter for an RGB-modded SNES Mini going to a CRT?
That's the link to the NTSC version. I assume you know the sync pin on NTSC cables would end up going to a power pin in your PAL console, correct? Also is your console a 1CHIP revision? I'm sure you already covered these bases, but I just wanted to be sure on both counts. Edit: I see that you say it is a 1CHIP console, so that's covered then.radaxian91 wrote:
FYI - Using this cable wired for TTL pass through sync - https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... gold-scart
Okay cool, yeah I was just concerned and wanted to make sure he didn't actually fry something in his console. It is strange that he's not getting a signal from R, G, or B. With all 3 lines not working, there must be something fundamentally wrong with his mod and not just a loose connection.borti4938 wrote:He has removed R28 and D1 from his PAL 1Chip mainboard. This frees pin3 from 12V and makes it useable for CSYNC.
But in general you are absolutely right! People in PAL regions have to be aware of that and have to mark there cables carefully if they have CSYNC cables lying around. Falsely plugged in a unmodified PAL console and powered on ... ouch ...
This is also the reason why all my cables are 'Pseudo' sync-on-luma cables. Pseudo, because my consoles are modified to output csync on the luma pin.
borti4938 wrote:He has removed R28 and D1 from his PAL 1Chip mainboard. This frees pin3 from 12V and makes it useable for CSYNC.
But in general you are absolutely right! People in PAL regions have to be aware of that and have to mark there cables carefully if they have CSYNC cables lying around. Falsely plugged in a unmodified PAL console and powered on ... ouch ...
This is also the reason why all my cables are 'Pseudo' sync-on-luma cables. Pseudo, because my consoles are modified to output csync on the luma pin.
Code: Select all
Note that the THS7374 can drive the line with dc coupling regardless of the input mode of operation. The only requirement is to make sure the video line has proper termination in series with the output-typically 75 ohms.
What value resistors are installed for R11, R21, R31 on the bypass board? According to bort4938's readme:-Blonu wrote:I have installed SNES RGB Bypass Board Vers. 4.1a with S-Video in my SNES mini and am noticing the brightness to be really high. Every component is soldered on the pcb and I have it wired for csync.
Is this expected?
Looks like R11, R21, R31 are correct for SNES Mini, but I cant work out what value resistors have been used for R12, R22, R32?Blonu wrote:Here is a picture of the assembled pcb.
https://imgur.com/gx0heiN
I think i assembled the parts as per the BOM. Do the registers look incorrect? I assembled as per the BOM and i think they are https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/729799