shmups.system11.org

I've been getting more and more people converted over to the delight of using Triad PSU's for various game consoles. They are superbly energy efficient, pass all compliance regulations, and are nicely compact wall warts that never get hot (even when you leave them plugged in all the time). A couple of NESRGB users now swear by them after the replacement Triad fixed display issues. Got a console like an AES on ebay that didn't come with an OEM PSU? Triad has you covered on many of the typical barrel sizes and polarity. Even better is you can use higher amperage rating Triads to cover a multitude of mod boards you might have installed in your console that pull extra juice. There's no harm in using PSU's with higher amp ratings, and it prevents power-related problems that might crop up. It's a win-win.

For the purposes of these links, I will be linking to one amp over the original requirement (rounded up). So a console that needs say 850mA will be rounded up to 2A. This is more than sufficient to cover mods like the NESRGB for example. You can also use the extra amperage to power multiple systems at the same time, like using a 3.5A PSU for the 'Tower of Power' (Genesis-Sega CD-32X combo). So with that said, here are the links:

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NES front-loader *, top-loader, AV Famicom, Famicom, Famicom Disk System:

* The NES is AC power regulated internally, so you can use any DC polarity you like. I choose to go with center-negative as you can use these on most of the Famicom console variations EXCEPT the Sharp Twin Famicom. That console requires a center positive polarity and a 2.5mm inner diameter.

North America 9V 2A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000-R/237-1426-ND/3094952

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500-R/237-2140-ND/6165635

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Super NES (NTSC, Junior, Japanese, Japanese Junior) *, **

* Although the OEM is 10V, 9V will suffice since the internal regulator down-converts it to 5V anyway.
** You will also need the barrel plug converter for the Super NES's unique barrel size:

https://console5.com/store/super-nintendo-snes-power-supply-adapter-plug-cable.html

North America 9V 2A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000-R/237-1426-ND/3094952

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500-R/237-2140-ND/6165635

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Super NES (PAL format, 2.5mm pin) *

*Although the OEM is 10V, 9V will suffice since the internal regulator down-converts it to 5V anyway.

North America 9V 2A, Center-Positive: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000-13/237-2263-ND/6600197

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Positive: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500-13/237-2158-ND/6600092

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Virtual Boy *

* You will also need the barrel plug converter for the Virtual Boy's unique barrel size:

https://console5.com/store/super-nintendo-snes-power-supply-adapter-plug-cable.html

North America 9V 2A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000-R/237-1426-ND/3094952

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500-R/237-2140-ND/6165635

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Sega Master System

North America 9V 2A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000-R/237-1426-ND/3094952

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500-R/237-2140-ND/6165635

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Turbo Grafx 16, PC Engine

North America 9V 2A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000-R/237-1426-ND/3094952

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500-R/237-2140-ND/6165635

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Neo Geo AES (early revision systems that require 5V and at least 3A):

Extremely important: If you try a 9V adapter on an AES console that requires 5V, you will likely damage the system! Do not rely on the bottom spec label as there have been several instances of board swaps going on. Instead, please review my AES PSU guide here: http://www.firebrandx.com/aespsuguide.html

North America 5V 4A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU050-4000-R/237-1420-ND/3094946

International 5V 4A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX050-4000-R/237-2134-ND/6165629

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Neo Geo (revisions with an LM2576 type voltage regulator)

Note: The only way to know for sure if you need a 9V adapter is to open the console up and check for an LM2576 voltage regulator (or variant thereof like the LM2576T-5.0).
North America 9V 3.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/short/pb1bp4

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/short/pb1bzm

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Sega Genesis M1, Mega Drive M1, Sega CD 1 or 2, Mega CD 1 or 2 *

North America 9V 3.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-3500-R/237-1442-ND/3094968

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500-R/237-2140-ND/6165635


* Here I like to use 9V 3.5A (North America) to supply the entire "Tower of Power". Doing this requires either solder-splicing an existing tower of power harness like from the M1CD1 'Trio' from RetroGameCave, or getting your own 2.1mm triple barrel splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Splitter-Adapter-Female-Lighting/dp/B00K7DKEF6/

For the 32X, you'll need a custom 1.77mm splitter AND a polarity switcher:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/350831009932
https://godlyke.com/collections/power-all-cables/products/cable-red-reverse-polarity-jumper

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Sega Genesis M2, Mega Drive M2, Genesis 3, 32x, Nomad *

You'll need the 1.7mm barrel adapter for each of these consoles. Link below:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/350831009932

North America 9V 3.5A, Center-Positive: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-3500/237-1441-ND/3094967

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Positive: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500/237-2139-ND/6165634


* And for making a single PSU solution combo, you'll need 3 of the 1.7mm barrel adapters, plus a triple splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Splitter-Adapter-Female-Lighting/dp/B00K7DKEF6/

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The XRGB Mini "Frammeister"

You'll need a 4mm to 1.7mm MALE to 5mm x 2.1mm FEMALE adapter like listed below:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/272521285275

North American PSU:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU050-3000/237-1387-ND/3094913

International:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX050-4000/237-2133-ND/6165628

The ripple/noise on these Triads for the Framemeister and OSSC is exceptionally low at 100mV pk-pk Max.

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The OSSC (Open Source Scan Converter)

My audio version did not require an adapter, as the power jack itself is 2.1mm x 5mm


North American PSU:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU050-2000/237-1385-ND/3094911

International:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX050-4000/237-2133-ND/6165628

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gscartsw

North American PSU:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-0800/237-1449-ND/3094975

International:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500/237-2139-ND/6165634

Okay so this is a good start for now. I'll add more links as I find time.

Cheers!

The PSU and console5 adapter for the SNES should also work with the Virtual Boy, yes?

Correct, I planned on adding more to the list as I have time. That's one I'll add right now.

Great info, bookmarked for when I need one. I'm actually still using all original for NESRGB, SNES, Genesis Model 1, and TG16 - no problems as of yet.

Seems like most are $15 too (Genesis M1 is $25 for some reason) which isn't a bad price at all.

It's because I selected the 3.5A model. The reason for this is you can either use it straight, or set it up to use as a single brick for the "Tower of Power" (with the listed adapters/splitters). If you don't intend to do that, you can always downgrade to the cheaper 2A version.

Thanks a lot for this post, I'm ordering for my nes, snes, genesis and pc engine.

What do you recomend for consoles with internal PSU (saturn, dreamcast, PS2, Wii....)???? I need to use coverters on mines from 220V to 120V, but they get really warm and some make an anoying high pitch sound.

For those, I recommend looking at mod solutions, although they can be hit & miss. I ordered a DreamPSU a few months ago, but it's looking very unlikely I'll ever get it or my money back. It's a shame too because the design is exactly what I'm looking for with extra fan sockets.

I've considered getting something more modern for some of my systems, but Tokyo outlets use 50hz instead of 60hz (also 100v instead of 120v, but the PSUs you list seem to accept a wide range). Any idea? There's plenty of 3rd party adapters sold in Japan, but not sure how well they perform.

One nice thing about the original Japanese versions of retro consoles is that the FC, SFC, white PCE+Core Grafx+Core Grafx II, MD, MCD, and even Virtual Boy (and probably some others, but IIRC not the Disk System, various PCE CD systems or Super Grafx) all use the same size center-negative post on their AC adapters, although I think the MD and MCD require a bit more power.

It's kind of hard to find info on specific ratings even when searching in Japanese, but here's a Japanese page that lists some details on PCE adapters: http://meganemushi.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-173.html

These are switching power supplies I assume. I'd rather stick with my original bricks. Switchers can introduce unwanted noise in systems that weren't originally designed to take them.

Change out the single smoothing capacitor in your original bricks, and you're good to go for another 30 years.

And yet they don't introduce noise. I've done both video and audio comparisons between original bricks and these triads and there is NO increase of noise of any type that can be heard or seen.

Besides, the main point of these are to replace missing PSUs. For example, I got my AES for pretty cheap because it was missing the PSU. I bought a Triad for it and it has worked perfectly. I now use Triads on most all of my other consoles too. I'm a hawk for noise, so you can bet I would have noticed it.

I'm not talking about visible noise in the picture or sound. I meant noise on data lines, CPU lines and such. Have you taken an oscilloscope to your consoles to measure for noise? Switchers can put unwanted stress on your CPU and any other chips in the system, since the system wasn't designed around a switching supply in the first place. Yeah it may work with no noticeable noise on your CRT, but there's always a chance that the life of your console will be reduced. Since your consoles are already basically antiques as it is, why risk it? Just hunt down an original brick on ebay.

You can't just blanket-dismiss switching power supplies as being 'bad' for your retro consoles. For example, HD Retrovision recommends this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BRKFII

Now due to the size, there's no way in hell that is a linear power supply. Now factor in the cost and compare to Triads, which cost more money and are distributed on electronics dealer web sites. I seriously doubt the Amazon offering is going to outperform a dedicated Triad. Neverthless you technically 'could' be right in that maybe Triads aren't as clean as the PWR+ PSU on Amazon, so I'll do some actual scope tests between the two to find out how they stack up.

All I can tell you right now, is I've actually heard of people getting a CLEANER picture from their NESRGB modded NES console using a Triad over an OEM brick. I know that's concerning video output and not what you're talking about, but it still says something when it can resolve video noise issues where the OEM brick couldn't.

Oh and for the record, I check for video noise on an OSSC with an E1S capture card, which is far more sensitive than a CRT. For example, this image was captured from a Triad-powered AES console:

I wouldn't consider HD retrovision an authority on electrical engineering. Sorry, but they're just a few guys that made a cheap RGB to component cable for the masses.

You need to do scope tests comparing OEM bricks to either the triad or the other one you linked to on Amazon. And make sure the OEM is freshly recapped for a fair comparison.

That NESRGB case study you mentioned could be simply because of the fact that they switched from AC to DC input with their new PSU, despite being a switcher. The caps are probably old and worn out on the NES's AC to DC rectification circuit. Switching to DC input could've helped clean up the picture in their case. If they were to try an original Famicom or Sega Genesis model 1 brick on their NES, it would probably have the same results.

good quality modern SMPS designs will provide smoother power than a basic ass barebones unregulated transformer/rectifier supply design (which is exactly what the OEM bricks were)

So I think a good solution for my consoles with internal PSU is conect them all of them to one of this:

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... =289564183

It says it is for medical aplication so I think is good quality (it's also the same brand FBX likes).

Do you think it'll be fine???

Also, the jp and usa consoles say to work with 120V @ 60hz, but I've been using a cheap converter and feed them 120V @ 50hz and never experienced any trouble (my country is 220V@50hz). Does frequency matter??

Ste is actually one of the most brilliant electrical engineers I've ever met. It pains me when people dismiss him without even reviewing his credentials & career. Just because they make cables doesn't make them hacks or amateurs. Here's what Ste had to say when I asked him about your concerns:



Ste went on to give me details on how to set up a testing rig with the scope and a beefy 10 Ohm resistor (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/riedon/UAL25-10RF8/696-1497-ND/3886586). His recommendation is anything 500mV and under is perfectly fine. However, looking up the datasheet for a Triad 9V 2A PSU, I found the ripple and noise MAXIMUM was already listed at 150mV pk-pk. So there's your answer. It falls well under the safe range.

Just checked the psu needed for an Atari 2600. The original outputs 9V and 500mA (center positive). This would be the Triad replacement:


North America 9V 2A, Center-Positive:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000/237-1425-ND/3094951

International 9V 2.5A, Center-Positive:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSX090-2500/237-2139-ND/6165634

The 2600 has a 3.5 jack for power, Console5 sells this adapter:https://console5.com/store/dc-power-adaptor-set-convert-a-standard-power-supply-to-6-different-plugs.html


Cheers!

This looks like it might be a good replacement for a Twin Famicom:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/6600150

Atari Jaguar
North America, Center Negative, 9V @ 2A, 2.1x5.5mm
WSU090-2000-R
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/wsu09 ... -magnetics

Famicom Disk System
North America, Center Negative, 9V @ 2A, 2.1x5.5mm
WSU090-2000-R
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/wsu09 ... -magnetics

Here are some alternate links for the items needed for the genesis tower of power. Digikey/Arrow has the adapter/splitters. The reverse polarity jumper was also out of stock, so I used something available on console5.com (be sure you get the SNES adapter there too)

Polarity Jumper: https://console5.com/store/dc-power-ada ... plugs.html (!You NEED to use a multimeter to check your install to make sure you reversed polarity!)
2.1 to 1.7mm Adapter: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/411/a ... industries
Splitter: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/10-02 ... ernational

Model 2 Genesis, Sega CD, and 32x
1x https://www.arrow.com/en/products/wsu09 ... -magnetics
1x https://www.arrow.com/en/products/10-02 ... ernational
1x https://console5.com/store/dc-power-ada ... plugs.html (!You NEED to use a multimeter to check your install to make sure you reversed polarity!)
2x https://www.arrow.com/en/products/411/a ... industries

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread and add a small contribution. I haven't had any performance issues with the power adapter I got when I ordered my OSSC but I always thought the power supply itself felt cheap so I looked for a proper alternative.

Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC)
North America, Center Positive, 5V @ 2A, 2.1x5.5mm
WSU050-2000
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU050-2000/237-1385-ND/3094911


With the correct type of barrel plug adapter, this could be used for USB devices as it outputs 5V

Game Boy (DMG-01)

6V 1.25A, Center-Negative: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/WSU060-1250-R/237-1422-ND/3094948

3.5 x 1.35 mm barrel adapter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/122461752117

Anyone familiar with this 5V 10A PSU https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adafruit-industries-llc/658/1528-1519-ND/5774322

Or this 5V 6A PSU https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/GSM60B05-P1J/1866-2021-ND/7703573

With a splitter it could power multiple devices. I'd love to have something that could power my Scart switch, OSSC, and HDMI switch in one go. It would be even better if I could add more devices like the Super NT and Mega SG. Unfortunately, the Triads seem to only go up to 5V 4A.

If you do that you will definitely introduce noise, even if you go the whole hog and get a linear PSU.

I too got tired of random picture noise and cheap replacement power bricks and I've been using one of these with the bulk of my retro consoles:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Way-25W-25 ... 1975719251

Results have been fantastic, I spent a few hours playing NES last night and the noise I was seeing before using a Retro Game Supply adapter was totally gone. Given the noise was getting bad enough that I was going to send the machine away for re-capping and servicing it definitely shows how bad psus can spoil the picture quality.

You will definitely need the 25 watt version to run e.g Dreamcast (and a Pico PSU replacement) but older consoles don't draw much power at all.

I do use DC splitters with it to power multiple consoles but never at the same time, otherwise there's always picture noise.

I don't use this thing with the OSSC, OSSC was designed to use a switching power supply and is fine with that.

I would say given the extensive testing FBX did on the Triads that going full linear is probably dumb-audiophile levels of crazy but it's up to you. There will always be several consoles with weird adapters that won't work with this thing too.

Now that is really cool but probably too hardcore for me. However it did give me the idea to check diyaudio's store to see if they have anything power related. Lo and behold they recommend a Mean Well PSU of the same family that I linked to power their Amp Camp Amp. Tested and approved by Nelson Pass himself.

Yes, the WSU050-2000 power supply would also work for:

XRGB-mini Framemeister

4.0 x 1.7 mm barrel adapter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272521285275

Mega Sg and Super Nt

Micro USB adapter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/272947175544

I've updated the OP to include Framemeister, OSSC, and gscartsw solutions. I added an extra amp on the USA version to 3 amps for the Framemeister (as I like to have some extra breathing room), and the International only has a 4 amp version available anyway.

Just curious here - whats is the reason using a splitter to power multiple devices could introduce noise? Are there any articles about this?
I have been using a splitter to power a Mega Drive/Mega-CD/32X combo with no issues, but thats understandable as they are all interconnected systems and share a common ground. However I have recently been toying with the idea of using a DC splitter to power both an AV Famicom and a Super Famicom to save plug sockets. Would this be a bad idea, and if so why?

The last thing I read about this (Might've been on VGP) is that a single PSU for multiple consoles shouldn't cause any interference so long as you're only running one console at a time; and that it's running multiple consoles simultaneously that's what causes issues, because they're not isolated from each other.

Thanks, I think I may have found the article you mentioned:-
https://www.videogameperfection.com/201 ... ene-dchub/
Odd that they had problems powering a Mega Drive/Mega CD combo :/

I guess I could try connecting an AV Famicom and Super Famicom with a DC splitter, since I wont ever be powering on both systems at the same time (Even though the power supply has more than enough amps to support both)

I wonder if it would be safe to power an OSSC, XRGB-Mini and gscartsw v5.2 with a 5V 4A power supply? In this case all three would be powered on at the same time, which I assume would increase the chance of issues.