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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 9:53 pm 


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nmalinoski wrote:
vol.2 wrote:
BuckoA51 wrote:
Yes, the SNES sync jitter won't be cured by a sync strike.


thanks for the reply.
im hoping this will cure an issue i have with my NES and SNES into an extron 203>PVM. I get horizontal tearing at the top of the screen (which doesn't happen when i use a PS1 or 2)
could this work for that, or is this mod mostly relevant for the OSSC?

If you're interested in fixing the jitter problems to avoid getting another video processor, the NESRGB 2.x revision has dejitter built-in, and there is now a combination RGB bypass/dejitter board for the SNES.


Thanks for the info. This is awesome. :D I will go for that SNES mod, but I already have a 1.X NESRGB installed and working, so I'll have to get the de jitter kit if I want that for the NES.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:04 pm 



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vol.2 wrote:
It's an older PVM without a "vcr mode". The SERR dip on the 203 RXI has no effect at all. It only happens when I go through the Extron with an NES or SNES. I can go directly into the PVM without flagging, but I want the centering ability of the Extron. This has been boggling my mind for like 4 years. Perhaps my 203 SERR switch function is just broken.


I would try switching between ADSP and DDSP to see if that makes a difference.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:18 pm 



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vol.2 wrote:
Thanks for the info. This is awesome. :D I will go for that SNES mod, but I already have a 1.X NESRGB installed and working, so I'll have to get the de jitter kit if I want that for the NES.

What's nice is that the NESRGB involves socketing normally-soldered-in components for ease of upgrade and maintenance.

If you've got a toploader (PPU socketed), you can pick up a NESRGB 2.x, do some minor assembly with a soldering iron, swap over the PPU, and resolder the wires. Even easier if you wired in quick-disconnects so the NESRGB wasn't tethered to the NES.

If you have a frontloader (PPU soldered) and you don't want to do any desoldering, you could remove your 1.x board and mail it and the 2.x kit to an installer for assembly and transferring the PPU, which, I imagine, would be cheaper and less involved than sending your console and having the installer do everything.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 12:18 pm 


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fernan1234 wrote:
vol.2 wrote:
It's an older PVM without a "vcr mode". The SERR dip on the 203 RXI has no effect at all. It only happens when I go through the Extron with an NES or SNES. I can go directly into the PVM without flagging, but I want the centering ability of the Extron. This has been boggling my mind for like 4 years. Perhaps my 203 SERR switch function is just broken.


I would try switching between ADSP and DDSP to see if that makes a difference.


it makes a difference for the SNES, but the ADSP is what allows use of the centering controls, so it would defeat the purpose.

for the NESRGB>Sync Strike switching between ADSP and DDSP makes no difference


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:24 pm 


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Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:29 pm 


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Einzelherz wrote:
Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?


https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1286802#p1286802

Here is a long explanation :P


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:35 pm 



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Einzelherz wrote:
Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?

Paraphrasing the first post in the NES/SNES 240p dejitter mod thread, the last pre-render scanline (line 14) before the first visible scanline (15) gets cut short every other frame. That leads to inconsistent frame timing, which modern equipment generally does not like (particularly 1080p displays); and it offsets the first visible scanline by 1 pixel every other frame, causing (what I'm interpreting to be) some horizontal jitter/shimmering.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 3:11 am 


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nmalinoski wrote:
Einzelherz wrote:
Can I get a quick explanation of the jitter these systems are producing?

Paraphrasing the first post in the NES/SNES 240p dejitter mod thread, the last pre-render scanline (line 14) before the first visible scanline (15) gets cut short every other frame. That leads to inconsistent frame timing, which modern equipment generally does not like (particularly 1080p displays); and it offsets the first visible scanline by 1 pixel every other frame, causing (what I'm interpreting to be) some horizontal jitter/shimmering.


I can definitely see the shimmer if I hookup my NESRGB to my projector. there's like a squiggly side to side shimmer at certain spots. nice to have an explanation for it


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 10:36 pm 



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Sega Saturn Phoebe order window was open today (for literally about 45 seconds...) but I think my order for a Type-2 Phoebe (which I choose randomly TBH) went through. Can anybody confirm the below is a Type-2 Saturn? Power looks ever so slightly different, but it has the 21-pin cable, and the rest seems to match this pages description (CD Drive cable is unplugged FYI):

Image

Only problem I have with this one is the voltage on the controller port is a little low (want to say ~2.x or 3v instead of 5v) so I can't use the analog controller, or a 4-controller hub which need the full 5 volts. Any thoughts on how to fix that? Was told I need to trace back from the controller's port and see where the voltage drops then replace that component? Where do I stick the + and - probes from my multimeter? Do I just stick my multimeter's negative probe on the negative power line, then use the positive and start probing around the controller port area? (I've never really diagnosed much...usually just replace caps like I tried on this one first - every one but the ones on the power board was replaced - didn't have any caps that large on-hand).

Last, I take it I just wait for a PayPal email from the GDEMI guy then pay him?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 4:10 pm 


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Going to be buying a PC Engine soon and I've never had the opportunity to use one.

Is the D-Pad on the regular controller any good? Just purely from looking at it, I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad. Or maybe it's totally fine?

If it's not that great what are some recommended options? The Hori Commander looks like it has a D-Pad similar to an NES'. There are some 3 button and 6 button options available that all look to have about the same D-Pad. Maybe there are some adapters that would let me use a Genesis 6-button or Saturn pad (I found a retrorgb post about a 3-button Genesis to PC Engine adapter)?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 4:34 pm 



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bobrocks95 wrote:
Is the D-Pad on the regular controller any good? Just purely from looking at it, I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad. Or maybe it's totally fine?


I have two of the white/original PC Engine/Japan controllers and either I got two duds or I REALLY don't care for them. The US TG16 version controllers seem to be just fine. Really like the PC Engine Avenue Pad 3 ones the best from what I've tried so far.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 5:14 pm 



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The PCE/CoreGrafx controller pad is pretty good IMO. They're pretty easy to open up and clean for better performance.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:57 am 


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Question:

Should we start a "Questions that deserve a thread" thread?
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 6:38 am 


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bobrocks95 wrote:
I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad

Which 3-button Genesis pad?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 11:11 am 


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ApolloBoy wrote:
bobrocks95 wrote:
I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad

Which 3-button Genesis pad?


Are they different? The OEM one that ships with the US Genesis 2 is my frame of reference, with the white color accents.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 4:25 pm 


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I think it was Fudoh once who mentioned some manufactured variant had a steel ball instead of hard plastic for the d-pad center.
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 7:22 pm 


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bobrocks95 wrote:
Going to be buying a PC Engine soon and I've never had the opportunity to use one.

Is the D-Pad on the regular controller any good? Just purely from looking at it, I get the impression that it's about as stiff as a 3-button Genesis pad. Or maybe it's totally fine?

If it's not that great what are some recommended options? The Hori Commander looks like it has a D-Pad similar to an NES'. There are some 3 button and 6 button options available that all look to have about the same D-Pad. Maybe there are some adapters that would let me use a Genesis 6-button or Saturn pad (I found a retrorgb post about a 3-button Genesis to PC Engine adapter)?



i grew up playing OG turbo grafix and pc engine. personally, i hated the controllers. wish i had the foresight to buy a replacement one, but it never crossed my mind at the time.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 7:28 pm 


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the PCE dpad is better than it looks. Solid controller. And if you don't like it, Tototek always has Playstation to PCE controller adapters available for under $25.

Or - if you like to spend a little more money: I adore the Micomsoft XE-1 controller series in general and its XE-1 HE PRO PC Engine version with rotatable buttons and integrated 5-Player adapter.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2019 10:47 am 


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There are later Genesis 3 button controllers that use the same (or at least nearly) d pad as what the Saturn uses. They are much smoother to roll than the original. Afaik the originals use the steel ball whereas the later ones have a plastic cross inside, but don't quote me on that.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2019 4:05 pm 



Joined: 02 Mar 2017
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Are there any occasional eBay sellers on here? Does PayPal ALWAYS hold your funds for "up to 21 days"?

I've sold about a grand worth of stuff in the last week, and that's a lot of money to me, and I'm kinda getting nervous that I'm sending out all these packages....then I'm left at the mercy of PayPal to decide if they actually release my money or not.

A online chat eBay customer service person told me the funds will be released after the package(s) are marked as delivered. Has anybody found that to be true? (they couldn't even cite me where their rules say that when I pressed them on the matter...)


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2019 4:26 pm 


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I've just installed DB Electronics' triple bypass in a Japanese VA1 MD2 (only the video part for now), and there's something wrong with the blue channel:

Image

I tried installing it on the underside of the MD2 motherboard and I ended up permanently bridging the blue and 5V pin on the triple bypass' PCB... twice. I then proceeded to remove the original MD2's DIN9 port and using a new one soldering it directly to the triple bypass. But now it looks like there's something wrong with the blue channel. I'm getting the blue from the first possible via (haven't tried using a VDP leg directly).

Could the VDP be fried? Anything obvious i'm missing? I've resoldered the resistors in the triple bypass PCB a few times and the results are always the same

EDIT: I think there's something wrong with the VDP. At first the blue color is a little dim, but not that much. After a while though the console starts heating up a bit and the blue starts to dissapear. I ended up buying a new one in eBay


Last edited by hugo19941994 on Sun May 05, 2019 7:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2019 8:42 pm 



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Hi guys, I installed the NESRGB 2.0 board into my twin famicom. I wired up the 8 pin din so I can use a neo geo scart cable. My question is, since the 2.0 board removed the caps on the rgb lines, do I need to add the caps to the scart cable?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2019 5:04 pm 



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Does anyone know of a good composite capture card (external or internal)?

Edit: I want to fiddle with AviSynth so as little processing as possible by the capture device is preferable unless there's one out there with an excellent comb filter and deinterlacing.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun May 05, 2019 2:57 pm 


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Ati tv wonder 600 usb is well recommended by the VHS transfer guys. The pci versions are good, too. But they are winXP era so might not play well with your system. I use it as an hdtv tuner cause DVRing OTA stuff is oddly difficult to do.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2019 4:16 pm 



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Einzelherz wrote:
Ati tv wonder 600 usb is well recommended by the VHS transfer guys. The pci versions are good, too. But they are winXP era so might not play well with your system. I use it as an hdtv tuner cause DVRing OTA stuff is oddly difficult to do.

Thanks for the suggestion. I have a couple XP PCs still hanging around so that won't be an issue for me.

Do you know if there are any major differences between the 550 or 650/HD?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2019 10:24 am 


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I'll have to defer to the folks at digitalfaq. Search through their forums for specifics or even ask questions. They're pretty quick on responding.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 8:02 pm 



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Posts: 22
I just ordered a PS1 sync on luma cable from RGC to replace my old 3rd party one which had a little bit of noise/interference.

I'm wondering though, does using a PS1 RGB scart on a PS2 damage the console/scart/TV? I know that the PS1 scart has 200uF capacitors whereas the PS2 has them in the console so for PS2 you need a RGB scart without those capacitors so I'll probably get the PS2 specific cable down the line. What exactly are the side effects to using a PS1 scart on a PS2 though, is there some comparison pictures?

Also for PS2 sync on luma is also the preferred sync type and PS2 can output 480p over scart right? I've read in some places you need sync on green but on RGC they only sell luma and CSYNC.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 8:52 pm 



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AaronSR wrote:
I'm wondering though, does using a PS1 RGB scart on a PS2 damage the console/scart/TV? I know that the PS1 scart has 200uF capacitors whereas the PS2 has them in the console so for PS2 you need a RGB scart without those capacitors so I'll probably get the PS2 specific cable down the line. What exactly are the side effects to using a PS1 scart on a PS2 though, is there some comparison pictures?

I've only used my PS1-specific SCART cable (220uF caps, from Retro-Access) on my PS2 for sporadic testing, but I've encountered no issues with that configuration. It's technically not electrically to spec, but it should have no negative side effects.

AaronSR wrote:
Also for PS2 sync on luma is also the preferred sync type...

Sync-on-luma is definitely preferred over sync-on-composite for PS1/PS2, but whether you get luma or CSync depends on whether you absolutely need CSync for use with a device like an Extron CrossPoint, RGB Interface, or PVM/BVM that otherwise is incompatible with sync-on-composite or sync-on-luma.

AaronSR wrote:
...and PS2 can output 480p over scart right? I've read in some places you need sync on green but on RGC they only sell luma and CSYNC.

The short answer is yes, the PS2 will technically output 480p RGB over SCART, but there are caveats.

With the colorspace set to RGB, the PS2 outputs 15kHz modes (240p/288p/480i/576i) in RGBS and 31kHz+ video modes (480p/576p/720p/1080i) in RGsB. Those RGsB signals will be transmitted just fine over the SCART cable, but the device you have that SCART cable hooked to needs to be able to 1) understand RGsB over SCART and 2) be able to handle 31kHz+ over its SCART input, both of which are, as I understand it, extremely rare.

If you're hooking your PS2 into a gscartsw 5.x or an OSSC, you'll be fine, because those were designed to consider and handle RGsB over SCART. If you're trying to get 480p RGsB from your PS2 directly into a modern TV, chances are it won't understand RGsB and, even if you were to reformat it to RGBS with a sync stripper, the display likely won't be able to take more than 15kHz on its SCART input. You might be able to use a PC monitor, but analogue inputs are being phased out, RGsB support has always been spotty at best, and the monitor will most likely not take any 15kHz RGBS signals you throw at it.

As for what you can do, there are a few solutions. First, the easiest method to get 480p output from the PS2 is going to be YPbPr component. No, it's not RGB, but it only requires a quality component cable, either first-party Sony or HD Retrovision, and it works when you have YPbPr-compatible equipment but not RGsB-compatible equipment.

If you want to stick with RGB SCART, as I mentioned, direct connection to the OSSC or running through a gscartsw 5.x will be your best bet. With the OSSC's automatic input switching, you'll be able to switch between 15kHz and 31kHz+ modes without manually changing the input on the OSSC. The gscartsw 5.x models are able to detect sync on the green line and either forward RGsB as-is or strip sync from green and output RGBS, and I believe it can seamlessly switch between the two.

And, lastly, if you're okay with hard mods, there is a method to disable RGsB output and have the console output RGBS full-time, regardless of video mode.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2019 12:11 am 



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Posts: 427
Extron RGB interfaces, scalers, VGA switch units will all take RGsB and pass it along like that or (for the interfaces and scalers) convert it to RGBS or RGBHV if you want. You'll just need a DE15 connection either with a DE15 cable from the PS2 or a SCART to DE15 cable if you already have a SCART cable. A PVM/BVM will work with RGsB or RGB fed into it from either of these. Though I believe you can also go straight from a SCART cable outputting RGsB to a regular BNC breakout cable, you'll just have to switch to internal sync on the monitor when the signal changes.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2019 5:20 am 



Joined: 14 Aug 2017
Posts: 22
Okay thanks for that super detailed response. Right now I have the Sony PS3 component cables so I wasn't in too much of a hurry for the PS2 scart cable. In future I do plan on getting an OSSC because right now I'm using one of those generic scart to HDMI boxes which as you might know are, not too terrible honestly, but not perfect. But I'm 99% sure it doesn't work with RGsB because testing God of War it just cuts out to a no signal.


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