rama wrote:Bananmos, do you have some pictures of your install?
Is there anything special about your SNES RGB cable?
Here's a photo of the de-jitter board installed on the bottom side of the circuitboard in my PAL 1-chip, on top of a SuperCIC install.
And here's a photo of the top bit.
For the mod, I followed the advice given in this thread:
https://www.videogameperfection.com/for ... chip-snes/
"Remove X1, C3, R28 and D1 from SNES motherboard.
Leave JP2 open
Leave JP3 open
Connect 5v and GND to regulator output or any other 5v and GND points.
Connect MCLK_EXT_i to SCIC clock output
Connect CSYNC_i to pin 7 of S-RGB chip or any via connected to that pin.
Connect MCLK_o to left hand through hole of X1 (TC1+)
Connect CSYNC_o to top pad of R28
Connect CLK_SEL_i to SCIC mode pin"
In case it is at all relevant, I have not done the ghosting fix mod. I would like to as I believe I've observed it in certain games (though it could just be the LCD of the TV being slow). But the most concise fix I could find only appears to list the part for an NTSC 1chip console:
https://www.njglover.com/fixing-ghostin ... es-1-chip/
Assuming the part number for capacitor C11 is numbered the same, then it looks like I really should have done it prior to the SuperCIC mod, as C11 is right under the board... but as other part numbers seem to vary, I'm not sure it is C11 on a PAL 1CHIP. Could anyone confirm?
The cable is a "Nintendo Super SNES RGB SCART cable SYNC on LUMA for PAL console", bought from retrogamingcables.co.uk in December 2017. I suppose it is "special" in the sense that when I now check retrogamingcables.co.uk, they appear to only be selling the more advanced "PACKAPUNCH" cable (which appear to be out-of-stock anyway). I didn't think at the time that the extra shielding for the more expensive packapunch cable would be necessary... and still doubt that could be the culprit?