JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
In case anyone runs into the issues that a RGB modded JVC (or any set using the TA1276AN jungle IC) shows a black or very faint picture, you might've run into the same issue as me, when I was RGB modding a JVC DT-V100CG: The MCU of the monitor simply nullifies the registers regarding RGB and/or doesn't clear the HI BRT (High Brightness Color) bit of the RGB contrast register. I made a small program for an Arduino to act as a bridge between the I2C bus of the monitor and the TA1276AN jungle IC. The code has only been tested on ATmega2560 Arduino clone for now, but will be "ported" to a Nano v3 once I get some. You can find the code here om github: https://github.com/skumlos/ta1276an-i2c-bridge and description of the issues I encountered here: https://immerhax.com/?p=143 (ad-free)
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Anyone had any luck in building a new power button? My JVC TM-H150CG came without one, but the pcb mounted switch still works, so I just need to know how the original works and if it's possible to 3d print one.
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
I've never heard about the 1=100 thing on the JVC TM line. Is it specific to only a few certain TM models (there's a whole bunch of them)? I've owned many JVC's, models like H150, H1700, 1650, H1900, 1950, 1750 if my memory serves (and multiples of many), and on I think (or at least pretty sure - it's been a while) nearly every one where I found a service menu line for hours, I could literally change that number to whatever I wanted and it stayed that way. I know on at least a model or two I let them run for a coupe hours and that hour meter didn't change...KatKya wrote:On a separate note: Is there any sort of confirmation regarding how the hour counter increments on the TM models? If that 1 = 100 claim is true then the 1900(now technically 1950) in the video has pretty damn low hours as 025 = ~2500. The 1750/1700 on the other hand is sitting somewhere in the range of 65000 or so.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Tapeworm mentioned it on page 3 of this thread regarding a DT-V model. I'm just going off that to work out how many my TM may have.Dochartaigh wrote:I've never heard about the 1=100 thing on the JVC TM line. Is it specific to only a few certain TM models (there's a whole bunch of them)? I've owned many JVC's, models like H150, H1700, 1650, H1900, 1950, 1750 if my memory serves (and multiples of many), and on I think (or at least pretty sure - it's been a while) nearly every one where I found a service menu line for hours, I could literally change that number to whatever I wanted and it stayed that way. I know on at least a model or two I let them run for a coupe hours and that hour meter didn't change...
Additionally, after doing the aforementioned board swapped, I went in and changed the hour counts of both monitors and then proceeded to use the 19'' for a period. I had set it to 25, and I'm nearly positive it's incremented to 26 since then. Mind you, I didn't use it for anything like 100 hours before that happened, but it did get a decent amount of usage.
I know it's all just a relatively meaningless number, and so long as the PQ doesn't suffer, hours mean fuck all, but still my curiosity can't help but wonder.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
The part id for the switch is "QSW0699-001 JVC Seesaw Switch" if it helps you out. I have the same problem as you with both of my JVCs. thought about buying a replacement and recreating it for 3d printing, but i can't find one in stock for a reasonable price.oggie wrote:Anyone had any luck in building a new power button? My JVC TM-H150CG came without one, but the pcb mounted switch still works, so I just need to know how the original works and if it's possible to 3d print one.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Where were you able to find one to purchase?macplusfm wrote:The part id for the switch is "QSW0699-001 JVC Seesaw Switch" if it helps you out. I have the same problem as you with both of my JVCs. thought about buying a replacement and recreating it for 3d printing, but i can't find one in stock for a reasonable price.oggie wrote:Anyone had any luck in building a new power button? My JVC TM-H150CG came without one, but the pcb mounted switch still works, so I just need to know how the original works and if it's possible to 3d print one.
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Einzelherz
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
I designed and had one printed a couple of years back. It had to be filed a bit to fit, but it snaps over the board instead of the garbage stock live hinge method. I'll post it shortly.
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Einzelherz
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Here is what the button looks like, how it's mounted, and what the final result basically is: https://imgur.com/a/rNArwEM
Here is the stl file for it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cgrBo ... tYWGtVLY6Z
IIRC the part that had to be filed is the front lower portion because it interferes with the front bezel when you slide the board back in. Also, this version might be a bit recessed compared to the stock button, but it's big and solid enough that it still works 100%.
Here is the stl file for it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cgrBo ... tYWGtVLY6Z
IIRC the part that had to be filed is the front lower portion because it interferes with the front bezel when you slide the board back in. Also, this version might be a bit recessed compared to the stock button, but it's big and solid enough that it still works 100%.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
This is awesome. I will print this ASAP and see how it goes. Thanks!Einzelherz wrote:Here is what the button looks like, how it's mounted, and what the final result basically is: https://imgur.com/a/rNArwEM
Here is the stl file for it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cgrBo ... tYWGtVLY6Z
IIRC the part that had to be filed is the front lower portion because it interferes with the front bezel when you slide the board back in. Also, this version might be a bit recessed compared to the stock button, but it's big and solid enough that it still works 100%.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
So I loaded the STL in slic3r. It's tiny. It's showing it to be .8x.75x.56 mm. Any idea how much I need to scale it up by?Einzelherz wrote:Here is what the button looks like, how it's mounted, and what the final result basically is: https://imgur.com/a/rNArwEM
Here is the stl file for it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cgrBo ... tYWGtVLY6Z
IIRC the part that had to be filed is the front lower portion because it interferes with the front bezel when you slide the board back in. Also, this version might be a bit recessed compared to the stock button, but it's big and solid enough that it still works 100%.
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Einzelherz
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Yeah my translator wasn't working well. Use the dimensions in that first pic (inches).
Also, I had it printed in that orientation so the layer lines are solid through the hinge portion. Didn't want to have it break.
Also this was for a 1950cg but I'd assume it's similar having disassembled my 150cg as well and it didn't look that different.
Also, I had it printed in that orientation so the layer lines are solid through the hinge portion. Didn't want to have it break.
Also this was for a 1950cg but I'd assume it's similar having disassembled my 150cg as well and it didn't look that different.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
I printed it in a size that I think will fit. What's the easiest way to get this apart to install?Einzelherz wrote:Yeah my translator wasn't working well. Use the dimensions in that first pic (inches).
Also, I had it printed in that orientation so the layer lines are solid through the hinge portion. Didn't want to have it break.
Also this was for a 1950cg but I'd assume it's similar having disassembled my 150cg as well and it didn't look that different.
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Einzelherz
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Remove the metal cover and the main board slides out the back of the chassis. Don't disassemble near the front of the tube cause it's very flimsy up there.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
So I had to scale it up 25.4 times and then cut about 2mm off the button on the left for it to fit through the hole. It turned out pretty good. And it works great.Einzelherz wrote:Remove the metal cover and the main board slides out the back of the chassis. Don't disassemble near the front of the tube cause it's very flimsy up there.
https://imgur.com/a/pREAL4f
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Einzelherz
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
That's fantastic!
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Hello everyone!
I'm having some issues with my JVC DT-V1710CG. When displaying a 720p signal, I noticed that there is some kind of noise on the screen. It's most noticeable when displaying a gray screen, and also a little bit of ghosting is visible.
I suspect that the power supply is to blame, because I can hear a slight buzzing comming out of the monitor, and I've checked everything else.
Fortunately I have a second DT-V that I can use for parts and swap the PSU, but the PSU on the DT-V i placed on the main board am I rigth? Would it be hard to swap the boards? Is there something that I should watch out for while doing that?
Thanks in advance!
I'm having some issues with my JVC DT-V1710CG. When displaying a 720p signal, I noticed that there is some kind of noise on the screen. It's most noticeable when displaying a gray screen, and also a little bit of ghosting is visible.
I suspect that the power supply is to blame, because I can hear a slight buzzing comming out of the monitor, and I've checked everything else.
Fortunately I have a second DT-V that I can use for parts and swap the PSU, but the PSU on the DT-V i placed on the main board am I rigth? Would it be hard to swap the boards? Is there something that I should watch out for while doing that?
Thanks in advance!
TM-290ZE Rare Find!!
TM-290ZE Rare Find!!
Hi guys. I've owned a few JVC HTM's before and a 19" DTV but was after a larger pro monitor. I searched for a NEC XM or a Megaview for years in the UK with no luck. Just recently I happened across a TM-290ZE that I had never even heard of before. Its the 29" big brother of the HTM line. The inputs and manual controls are located on the side, which I prefer with these super deep pro monitors, access is so much easier that rear mounted.
The picture is comprable to the smaller HTM models, fantastic colors but not as sharp as my BVM ofc. The service menu is the same, I would have liked to have seen a few extra geometry options since the screen is just slightly rotated anti-clockwise, but it only affects about 1 pixel line in 240p.
The Photos don't really do it justice as my current phone cannot take decent photos of CRT screens.. The last picture is along side my PVM 2130 (in Tate) for scale.
RGB Rob's video on this model that showed that it also came with a remote (mine didn't).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MImAMC2Yzls
I though I might possibly find a consumer JVC remote that might work with it, but feared I wouldn't be able to access the adjustment sub-menu because of the hold Enter>Menu combination you have to do, but paused Rob's video to see the serial number of the remote , and in another stroke of luck I was able to find one for sale in Hong Kong which is being shipped to me now! Looking at photos of it, it has a 'memory mode' button which makes me wonder if this may have multiple savable geometry settings, but the manual says you unfortunately cannot save multiple settings per input..
*Btw, I do not have to have the remote as the buttons on the monitor itself do everything, but it will be super nice not to have to get up and reach around the side when i switch systems, even if I still have to manually re-adjust from the menu.
All in all I am super happy with this model and to finally have a large pro 15kHZ monitor after so many years of searching. Manual can be found here:
https://elektrotanya.com/jvc_tm-290ze.pdf/download.html
Hi guys. I've owned a few JVC HTM's before and a 19" DTV but was after a larger pro monitor. I searched for a NEC XM or a Megaview for years in the UK with no luck. Just recently I happened across a TM-290ZE that I had never even heard of before. Its the 29" big brother of the HTM line. The inputs and manual controls are located on the side, which I prefer with these super deep pro monitors, access is so much easier that rear mounted.
The picture is comprable to the smaller HTM models, fantastic colors but not as sharp as my BVM ofc. The service menu is the same, I would have liked to have seen a few extra geometry options since the screen is just slightly rotated anti-clockwise, but it only affects about 1 pixel line in 240p.
The Photos don't really do it justice as my current phone cannot take decent photos of CRT screens.. The last picture is along side my PVM 2130 (in Tate) for scale.
RGB Rob's video on this model that showed that it also came with a remote (mine didn't).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MImAMC2Yzls
I though I might possibly find a consumer JVC remote that might work with it, but feared I wouldn't be able to access the adjustment sub-menu because of the hold Enter>Menu combination you have to do, but paused Rob's video to see the serial number of the remote , and in another stroke of luck I was able to find one for sale in Hong Kong which is being shipped to me now! Looking at photos of it, it has a 'memory mode' button which makes me wonder if this may have multiple savable geometry settings, but the manual says you unfortunately cannot save multiple settings per input..
*Btw, I do not have to have the remote as the buttons on the monitor itself do everything, but it will be super nice not to have to get up and reach around the side when i switch systems, even if I still have to manually re-adjust from the menu.
All in all I am super happy with this model and to finally have a large pro 15kHZ monitor after so many years of searching. Manual can be found here:
https://elektrotanya.com/jvc_tm-290ze.pdf/download.html
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
KatKya wrote:Tapeworm mentioned it on page 3 of this thread regarding a DT-V model. I'm just going off that to work out how many my TM may have.Dochartaigh wrote:I've never heard about the 1=100 thing on the JVC TM line. Is it specific to only a few certain TM models (there's a whole bunch of them)? I've owned many JVC's, models like H150, H1700, 1650, H1900, 1950, 1750 if my memory serves (and multiples of many), and on I think (or at least pretty sure - it's been a while) nearly every one where I found a service menu line for hours, I could literally change that number to whatever I wanted and it stayed that way. I know on at least a model or two I let them run for a coupe hours and that hour meter didn't change...
Additionally, after doing the aforementioned board swapped, I went in and changed the hour counts of both monitors and then proceeded to use the 19'' for a period. I had set it to 25, and I'm nearly positive it's incremented to 26 since then. Mind you, I didn't use it for anything like 100 hours before that happened, but it did get a decent amount of usage.
I know it's all just a relatively meaningless number, and so long as the PQ doesn't suffer, hours mean fuck all, but still my curiosity can't help but wonder.
on the DT-V line the x100 for meter is spelled out in the menu
<FUNCTION SETTING>
RUSH DELAY TIME :STD.
HOUR METER X100h :123
EXIT:MENU ADJUST:
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Hello guys
I'm new in this forum and I have a problem with my recent acquisition, one JVC DT-V 1910CG.
When I use ps2, gamecube works fine.
When I use super nintendo, ps1... so 240p I have this issue, the image vibrates:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88S8mtB ... c8_RohhADA
Any solution?
I'm new in this forum and I have a problem with my recent acquisition, one JVC DT-V 1910CG.
When I use ps2, gamecube works fine.
When I use super nintendo, ps1... so 240p I have this issue, the image vibrates:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88S8mtB ... c8_RohhADA
Any solution?
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
It is not an issue. You are probably using only the H line for sync. Try using a extron RGB interface or a sync strike and use RGBHV instead of RGBS. With component input set Aperture Control option to off.
This is a known feature of the DT-V.
This is a known feature of the DT-V.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Thanks for your reply @Namingway_PL.
I have purchased a extron 160xi (for 35€) and one sync strike. Is on its way
I have purchased a extron 160xi (for 35€) and one sync strike. Is on its way
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
I thought I'd give this a try last weekend since I was recabling the retro gaming corner and there was absolutely no differences between using RGBS and RGBHV via an Extron RGB interface. Even tried two different Extron's. In some cases I even saw that the picture was jumping more with the Extron than with the console connected directly to the PVM with RGBS. Is there something I'm missing or this is only fixed with specific models of Extron interfaces? For me its not personally worth the extra cable hassle since I only notice that issue when I'm looking for it and I'm really up close to the screen.Namingway_PL wrote:It is not an issue. You are probably using only the H line for sync. Try using a extron RGB interface or a sync strike and use RGBHV instead of RGBS. With component input set Aperture Control option to off.
This is a known feature of the DT-V.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
I have a gorgeous 17" JVC DTV which I leave at my friends house, for playing games when I am over there. It has a two small glass chips out of the screen but you don't even notice when playing!
It has recently started having a wavy effect at the top of the screen (horizontal wave) and its progressively gotten worse, eg it's gradually gotten another horizontal line of waviness below the top one. The whole top 1/8th of the monitor is now all wavey, like the picture is skewed off to the right. Normally an inspection of caps will be the first thing I try, but has anyone else run into this problem with their DTV ? I have yet to open it up yet, but might try that very soon. thanks in advance for any info.
It has recently started having a wavy effect at the top of the screen (horizontal wave) and its progressively gotten worse, eg it's gradually gotten another horizontal line of waviness below the top one. The whole top 1/8th of the monitor is now all wavey, like the picture is skewed off to the right. Normally an inspection of caps will be the first thing I try, but has anyone else run into this problem with their DTV ? I have yet to open it up yet, but might try that very soon. thanks in advance for any info.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Einzelherz wrote:Remove the metal cover and the main board slides out the back of the chassis. Don't disassemble near the front of the tube cause it's very flimsy up there.
Realise this is an old post, but hoping someone knows. What exactly is the process for this, I take it the anode cap etc has to be removed?
Thanks
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
You need to remove the cover, disconnect anode and RGB lines and most likely also degauss coil connector and tally light connector. Then you can slide the whole mainboard and whatnot back.drojman wrote:Einzelherz wrote:Remove the metal cover and the main board slides out the back of the chassis. Don't disassemble near the front of the tube cause it's very flimsy up there.
Realise this is an old post, but hoping someone knows. What exactly is the process for this, I take it the anode cap etc has to be removed?
Thanks
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
skum wrote:You need to remove the cover, disconnect anode and RGB lines and most likely also degauss coil connector and tally light connector. Then you can slide the whole mainboard and whatnot back.drojman wrote:Einzelherz wrote:Remove the metal cover and the main board slides out the back of the chassis. Don't disassemble near the front of the tube cause it's very flimsy up there.
Realise this is an old post, but hoping someone knows. What exactly is the process for this, I take it the anode cap etc has to be removed?
Thanks
Oof, not sure if I'm capable! There's not a way to mount a button on without opening it? I don't mind if it looks rubbish, just something that works!
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Well If you start removing the front there are two main issues as I see it: You'll actually loosen the whole tube from the assembly and the plastics are somewhat flimsy, increasing the risk of breaking stuff even further. Tbh. removing the mainboard sounds worse than it is. As long as you pay attention to the anode stuff, doing all this isn't all that bad, and when you've done it once, you'll get the hang of it. Take pictures during the process so you know how stuff was attached.drojman wrote:Oof, not sure if I'm capable! There's not a way to mount a button on without opening it? I don't mind if it looks rubbish, just something that works!skum wrote:
You need to remove the cover, disconnect anode and RGB lines and most likely also degauss coil connector and tally light connector. Then you can slide the whole mainboard and whatnot back.
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Einzelherz
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Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
The main board slides out easily. Iirc you can't even disassemble the front frame with the boards in the chassis.
Just take pictures with your phone of everything you have to disconnect as you're doing it.
The alternative is using a popsicle stick through the broken front panel.
Just take pictures with your phone of everything you have to disconnect as you're doing it.
The alternative is using a popsicle stick through the broken front panel.
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Following 2 sucessful discharged of Sony PVMs, I think I'm fairly happy to tackle the replacement button, should be much easier than recapping.
Just to confirm, I am not unscrewing the 4 tube mounts? I would rather not, as it seems incredibly easy to snap everything if you do.
Thanks
Just to confirm, I am not unscrewing the 4 tube mounts? I would rather not, as it seems incredibly easy to snap everything if you do.
Thanks
Re: JVC TM-H and DT-V thread
Yes dont touch them. As long as the tube is disconnected, meaning neckboard, degauss coil and so on, you slide the mainboard and so on out the back. You'll then have the tube sitting on the front frame, and the bottom still there, as the mainboard sits on top of that.drojman wrote:Following 2 sucessful discharged of Sony PVMs, I think I'm fairly happy to tackle the replacement button, should be much easier than recapping.
Just to confirm, I am not unscrewing the 4 tube mounts? I would rather not, as it seems incredibly easy to snap everything if you do.
Thanks