TV RGB mod thread

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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

pmk222 wrote: I found the chassis number was listed on a label inside the TV. It is a KM-208. Where would I go about finding the schematic from that? I did a google searches with no results.
What make and model?
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"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
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LuckyDay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by LuckyDay »

KnuckleheadFlow wrote:I'd still suggest finding a TV, maybe a small one, and giving it a go. It feels good making it do something it wasn't intended for. Having given the little Toshiba to my brother, it was time to move on to bigger and better things; the JVC AV-32D501 and it turned out great. I'm not sure in what way, but to me it looks better than the Toshiba. Maybe it's just the size.

Anyway, at first I couldn't find a service manual for the D501 online anywhere, even in the 13GB torrent of JVC manuals. I did find one for the D502 and it showed it had the same jungle IC as the Toshiba. Great I thought, maybe it'll be practically the same as the D501. I finally opened it up this weekend and wouldn't you know it, it is practically the same except for the jungle IC! It's got some JVC branded one which I couldn't find a data sheet for, of course. It's probably another manufacturer's but who knows which one. The micro was the same, however. I traced the RGB lines to the jungle IC, before finding a service manual for another TV that uses the exact same chassis but lacks the PiP daughter board that my TV has.

Looking at the schematics, I confirmed that I did indeed have the right pins. What was interesting was that I noticed the RGB going into the jungle IC was labled "mix RGB". It was routed first around an unpopulated header for Guide Plus (a late 90s early 00s thing like the menus you get with a digital cable box) then into and out of the PiP board. Ahhh, so what they're doing is using the same RGB inputs for OSD, Guide Plus and PiP and just muxing one on top of the other.

Image

Testing the RGB input was as easy as pulling the PiP board and plugging the Genesis RGB into the connector, along with 5v off a regulator into the blanking ("YS") line.

Image

Results were a near perfect RGB picture! I took some photos, but I wasn't satisfied with how those turned out TBH. I can try again later if people are interested. There's a purity or convergence issue in the upper right corner that I'll have to address but with no OSD being muxed by the PiP board I couldn't do it with the RGB input... or could I?

Long story short, I should have an LT1675 RGB mux IC Wednesday evening (with 10 more for $25 on the slow boat from Ali Express). It's actually made for things like OSD and PiP. Not only will this let me keep the the OSD overlaid with the RGB input, looking way more like it came like that from the factory, it means the 4PDT switch is no longer needed, since I think I can have the mux IC switch to overlay the OSD with the OSD's blanking signal. The LT1675 from Ali Express costs actually less than half of what I paid for my 4PDT switch too! All that'll be needed is a on/off switch for the 5V blanking.

PS - With this bigger set, I now see that my HDG non-TMSS Genesis does indeed have the dreaded jailbars. I thought I'd gotten lucky. I couldn't see them with the Toshiba and they're not that bad really, but now I can't unsee them of course. I'll have to take care of them when I re-cap it.
Quoting this post because although I pm'd you for some questions, the answer might be useful here.

I have had no luck finding service manuals for the 27D500 model from JVC. I have acquired one that is in extremely good condition I'd like to mod.

I'm deciding between the method used above and losing the OSD (which I'm not real worried about honestly, especially because I could probably make a switch to turn it off/on), or trying to use the OSD Mux method if it's a candidate. But without a service manual I'm not sure how easily it would be to determine a schematic. Does anyone else have D Series they've successfully used that method on? I browsed the thread and didn't see much in the way of similar models, just the one above.
sd_snatcher
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by sd_snatcher »

Rodri3 wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote: So this jungle can accept Analog RGB? Wow! I know a few people who are going to be happy about that.
Now that you mention it, I did connect the RGB signals to the digital RGB pinouts...
But it works!

Let me know if someone else succeeds!

I found the service manual for the Sony KV-21XTR3, but it doesn't show that RGB-in connector anywhere. Maybe yours have a different chassis.

Could you please confirm with a multimeter that the RGB-in connector you used in your TV is really connected to the pins 14, 15, 16 and 17 of the CXA1871S? If not, where do they really go?
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maxtherabbit
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

LuckyDay wrote:
KnuckleheadFlow wrote:I'd still suggest finding a TV, maybe a small one, and giving it a go. It feels good making it do something it wasn't intended for. Having given the little Toshiba to my brother, it was time to move on to bigger and better things; the JVC AV-32D501 and it turned out great. I'm not sure in what way, but to me it looks better than the Toshiba. Maybe it's just the size.

Anyway, at first I couldn't find a service manual for the D501 online anywhere, even in the 13GB torrent of JVC manuals. I did find one for the D502 and it showed it had the same jungle IC as the Toshiba. Great I thought, maybe it'll be practically the same as the D501. I finally opened it up this weekend and wouldn't you know it, it is practically the same except for the jungle IC! It's got some JVC branded one which I couldn't find a data sheet for, of course. It's probably another manufacturer's but who knows which one. The micro was the same, however. I traced the RGB lines to the jungle IC, before finding a service manual for another TV that uses the exact same chassis but lacks the PiP daughter board that my TV has.

Looking at the schematics, I confirmed that I did indeed have the right pins. What was interesting was that I noticed the RGB going into the jungle IC was labled "mix RGB". It was routed first around an unpopulated header for Guide Plus (a late 90s early 00s thing like the menus you get with a digital cable box) then into and out of the PiP board. Ahhh, so what they're doing is using the same RGB inputs for OSD, Guide Plus and PiP and just muxing one on top of the other.

Image

Testing the RGB input was as easy as pulling the PiP board and plugging the Genesis RGB into the connector, along with 5v off a regulator into the blanking ("YS") line.

Image

Results were a near perfect RGB picture! I took some photos, but I wasn't satisfied with how those turned out TBH. I can try again later if people are interested. There's a purity or convergence issue in the upper right corner that I'll have to address but with no OSD being muxed by the PiP board I couldn't do it with the RGB input... or could I?

Long story short, I should have an LT1675 RGB mux IC Wednesday evening (with 10 more for $25 on the slow boat from Ali Express). It's actually made for things like OSD and PiP. Not only will this let me keep the the OSD overlaid with the RGB input, looking way more like it came like that from the factory, it means the 4PDT switch is no longer needed, since I think I can have the mux IC switch to overlay the OSD with the OSD's blanking signal. The LT1675 from Ali Express costs actually less than half of what I paid for my 4PDT switch too! All that'll be needed is a on/off switch for the 5V blanking.

PS - With this bigger set, I now see that my HDG non-TMSS Genesis does indeed have the dreaded jailbars. I thought I'd gotten lucky. I couldn't see them with the Toshiba and they're not that bad really, but now I can't unsee them of course. I'll have to take care of them when I re-cap it.
Quoting this post because although I pm'd you for some questions, the answer might be useful here.

I have had no luck finding service manuals for the 27D500 model from JVC. I have acquired one that is in extremely good condition I'd like to mod.

I'm deciding between the method used above and losing the OSD (which I'm not real worried about honestly, especially because I could probably make a switch to turn it off/on), or trying to use the OSD Mux method if it's a candidate. But without a service manual I'm not sure how easily it would be to determine a schematic. Does anyone else have D Series they've successfully used that method on? I browsed the thread and didn't see much in the way of similar models, just the one above.
I've got the docs for that one I think. Single RGB input on the jungle that receives analog RGB signals. Used by OSD (and PiP if fitted, the OSD is muxed through the PiP IC) I'll post a link soon as I get home from the gym
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LuckyDay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by LuckyDay »

maxtherabbit wrote:
LuckyDay wrote:
KnuckleheadFlow wrote:I'd still suggest finding a TV, maybe a small one, and giving it a go. It feels good making it do something it wasn't intended for. Having given the little Toshiba to my brother, it was time to move on to bigger and better things; the JVC AV-32D501 and it turned out great. I'm not sure in what way, but to me it looks better than the Toshiba. Maybe it's just the size.

Anyway, at first I couldn't find a service manual for the D501 online anywhere, even in the 13GB torrent of JVC manuals. I did find one for the D502 and it showed it had the same jungle IC as the Toshiba. Great I thought, maybe it'll be practically the same as the D501. I finally opened it up this weekend and wouldn't you know it, it is practically the same except for the jungle IC! It's got some JVC branded one which I couldn't find a data sheet for, of course. It's probably another manufacturer's but who knows which one. The micro was the same, however. I traced the RGB lines to the jungle IC, before finding a service manual for another TV that uses the exact same chassis but lacks the PiP daughter board that my TV has.

Looking at the schematics, I confirmed that I did indeed have the right pins. What was interesting was that I noticed the RGB going into the jungle IC was labled "mix RGB". It was routed first around an unpopulated header for Guide Plus (a late 90s early 00s thing like the menus you get with a digital cable box) then into and out of the PiP board. Ahhh, so what they're doing is using the same RGB inputs for OSD, Guide Plus and PiP and just muxing one on top of the other.

Image

Testing the RGB input was as easy as pulling the PiP board and plugging the Genesis RGB into the connector, along with 5v off a regulator into the blanking ("YS") line.

Image

Results were a near perfect RGB picture! I took some photos, but I wasn't satisfied with how those turned out TBH. I can try again later if people are interested. There's a purity or convergence issue in the upper right corner that I'll have to address but with no OSD being muxed by the PiP board I couldn't do it with the RGB input... or could I?

Long story short, I should have an LT1675 RGB mux IC Wednesday evening (with 10 more for $25 on the slow boat from Ali Express). It's actually made for things like OSD and PiP. Not only will this let me keep the the OSD overlaid with the RGB input, looking way more like it came like that from the factory, it means the 4PDT switch is no longer needed, since I think I can have the mux IC switch to overlay the OSD with the OSD's blanking signal. The LT1675 from Ali Express costs actually less than half of what I paid for my 4PDT switch too! All that'll be needed is a on/off switch for the 5V blanking.

PS - With this bigger set, I now see that my HDG non-TMSS Genesis does indeed have the dreaded jailbars. I thought I'd gotten lucky. I couldn't see them with the Toshiba and they're not that bad really, but now I can't unsee them of course. I'll have to take care of them when I re-cap it.
Quoting this post because although I pm'd you for some questions, the answer might be useful here.

I have had no luck finding service manuals for the 27D500 model from JVC. I have acquired one that is in extremely good condition I'd like to mod.

I'm deciding between the method used above and losing the OSD (which I'm not real worried about honestly, especially because I could probably make a switch to turn it off/on), or trying to use the OSD Mux method if it's a candidate. But without a service manual I'm not sure how easily it would be to determine a schematic. Does anyone else have D Series they've successfully used that method on? I browsed the thread and didn't see much in the way of similar models, just the one above.
I've got the docs for that one I think. Single RGB input on the jungle that receives analog RGB signals. Used by OSD (and PiP if fitted, the OSD is muxed through the PiP IC) I'll post a link soon as I get home from the gym
Perfect, thanks.
Wigz81
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Wigz81 »

so i've been mulling over this for the past week. i have a sony 32S40 i recently picked up last week that i was looking to mod. it has a CXP85840A MUX and the CXA2095S Jungle. Going off examples of the MUX RGB diagram for the sanyo and a few other examples it seems that other tvs have a much higher rating on their resistors. it's possible that im looking at the wrong resistors but im pretty sure i've got it right. the values are:

R067 (BLK OSD Inline) 470
R064/065/066 (RGB OSD Inline) 220
R1354 (Ext. BLK) 220
R1355/1356/1357 (Ext. RGB) 100

These are going through a .01mF cap. i intend to use the diodes for this.

if i had to guess i probably just need to mess with the calculator a bit. not sure if i can reuse my current resistors or if i need to put an order in to Mouser or not. any help would be appreciated.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

LuckyDay wrote:
Perfect, thanks.
sorry that took a while...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/83974 ... 502-R.html

this should work for your TV, there are two different sets of schematics and board layout pics contained within due to chassis revisions - hopefully one set matches what you've got
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Pikkon
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pikkon »

I recently modded a sony kv-13tr29 for rgb and it came out great but when I got to adjusting the tv in the service menu HSIZ is locked in at 18 and is disabled,in the service manual it says Not Use for HSIZ,I can move the numbers up and down but has no effect and I tried using other ID-0 through ID-4 but that did nothing,other sets using the same BA-1 chassis have the HSIZ working so I guess it's locked out in software,kind of a bummer as I just wanted to move it just a bit.
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LuckyDay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by LuckyDay »

Pikkon wrote:I recently modded a sony kv-13tr29 for rgb and it came out great but when I got to adjusting the tv in the service menu HSIZ is locked in at 18 and is disabled,in the service manual it says Not Use for HSIZ,I can move the numbers up and down but has no effect and I tried using other ID-0 through ID-4 but that did nothing,other sets using the same BA-1 chassis have the HSIZ working so I guess it's locked out in software,kind of a bummer as I just wanting to move it just a bit.
I have two 13" Sony's and both have the same limitations of the service menu. Which is a shame because they both have the same slight corner bowing, and some of the menu items that are not working are the PINAMP and C.PIN adjustments.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

It’s funny because most Sony’s have adjustable horizontal size but most consumer sets don’t have horizontal size adjustments. It’s a pain too because horizontal size adjustment is very handy for arcade use.
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
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"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
sd_snatcher
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by sd_snatcher »

sd_snatcher wrote:
Rodri3 wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote: So this jungle can accept Analog RGB? Wow! I know a few people who are going to be happy about that.
Now that you mention it, I did connect the RGB signals to the digital RGB pinouts...
But it works!

Let me know if someone else succeeds!

I found the service manual for the Sony KV-21XTR3, but it doesn't show that RGB-in connector anywhere. Maybe yours have a different chassis.

Could you please confirm with a multimeter that the RGB-in connector you used in your TV is really connected to the pins 14, 15, 16 and 17 of the CXA1871S? If not, where do they really go?

Well, I just tried exactly the same formula on my TV: connected the RGB output of my console to the RGB-inputs of the CXA1871S via 75R resistors and the OSD-SW accordingly. And it didn't work. All I got was a black screen with the OSD texts. But when I send +5V to the R input, the entire screen got red. This proves that the OSD/RGB inputs of this Jungle are digital only.

That internal RGB connector of the Sony KV-21XTR3 must be connected to some other chip in the TV.
Wigz81
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Wigz81 »

has anyone done the OSD MUX method on a AA-2D Sony. I have a KV-32S40 that i'd like to attempt this with.

Service Manual
https://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-32s40_ ... nload.html

i'm still trying to figure out resistor values. are my inline osd resistors R052/053/054 for the RGB lines or R064/065/066?

I was hoping it would be similar enough to the BA-5D model to just carry everything over but that doesnt seem to be the case.
Any help would be much appreciated.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Ah yes the AA-2D. This set has an unusual OSD circuit

I have been hoping someone would have a crack at it.

My initial thoughts are that you could try the Mux method by removing the 390R chip resistors R133, R1128 and R1123 and then injecting your RGB to the ungrounded pads with 330R inlines and 75R terminations.

Another idea was to use 500R or 1K pots instead of the 330R inlines to dial in the OSD levels.
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
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Pikkon
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pikkon »

LuckyDay wrote:
Pikkon wrote:I recently modded a sony kv-13tr29 for rgb and it came out great but when I got to adjusting the tv in the service menu HSIZ is locked in at 18 and is disabled,in the service manual it says Not Use for HSIZ,I can move the numbers up and down but has no effect and I tried using other ID-0 through ID-4 but that did nothing,other sets using the same BA-1 chassis have the HSIZ working so I guess it's locked out in software,kind of a bummer as I just wanting to move it just a bit.
I have two 13" Sony's and both have the same limitations of the service menu. Which is a shame because they both have the same slight corner bowing, and some of the menu items that are not working are the PINAMP and C.PIN adjustments.

I got it looking a lot bit better with the 240p test suite.

I adjusted the horizontal position first then the horizontal frequency.
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LuckyDay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by LuckyDay »

Pikkon wrote:
LuckyDay wrote:
Pikkon wrote:I recently modded a sony kv-13tr29 for rgb and it came out great but when I got to adjusting the tv in the service menu HSIZ is locked in at 18 and is disabled,in the service manual it says Not Use for HSIZ,I can move the numbers up and down but has no effect and I tried using other ID-0 through ID-4 but that did nothing,other sets using the same BA-1 chassis have the HSIZ working so I guess it's locked out in software,kind of a bummer as I just wanting to move it just a bit.
I have two 13" Sony's and both have the same limitations of the service menu. Which is a shame because they both have the same slight corner bowing, and some of the menu items that are not working are the PINAMP and C.PIN adjustments.

I got it looking a lot bit better with the 240p test suite.

I adjusted the horizontal position first then the horizontal frequency.
Ah yeah you're right. On the small sets the horizontal frequency setting acts as a good replacement. It doens't give you as fine of control over the size, but it worked for me as well.

My problem at this point is corner bowing slightly at the bottom of the screen. If I could adjust b.pin it would be perfect. I'll probably have to mess with the rings and convergence strips to see if I can use them to pull it out a bit.

Otherwise though the rgb mod on the 14" looks great, and I have another set sitting and waiting to mod soon as well.
Wigz81
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Wigz81 »

MarkOZLAD wrote:Ah yes the AA-2D. This set has an unusual OSD circuit

I have been hoping someone would have a crack at it.

My initial thoughts are that you could try the Mux method by removing the 390R chip resistors R133, R1128 and R1123 and then injecting your RGB to the ungrounded pads with 330R inlines and 75R terminations.

Another idea was to use 500R or 1K pots instead of the 330R inlines to dial in the OSD levels.
following other examples of this mod im assuming im lifting the legs on the MUX IC (PIN 16-18) putting on a 1k pot in place of an inline resistor and follow that with a 75r to ground.

i thought i had this figured out until i started pulling the tv apart lol. had to be done anyways the flyback xformer died and had to solder on a new one.

currently trying to draw a diagram of what exactly is going to happen. i work as an electrical technician and our diagrams are a bit more basic lol.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

No lifting of legs. Forget what you see on the first post. Learn about voltage division. Look at the case studies of the BA-5 it covers the theory.
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Pikkon
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pikkon »

LuckyDay wrote:Otherwise though the rgb mod on the 14" looks great, and I have another set sitting and waiting to mod soon as well.
Does yours have a horizontal shift when using composite as sync,just tried rf as sync and and pretty much fixed it but don't really want to go to the trouble using that setup.
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LuckyDay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by LuckyDay »

Pikkon wrote:
LuckyDay wrote:Otherwise though the rgb mod on the 14" looks great, and I have another set sitting and waiting to mod soon as well.
Does yours have a horizontal shift when using composite as sync,just tried rf as sync and and pretty much fixed it but don't really want to go to the trouble using that setup.
Yeah, composite sync is a good inch shifted to the left I believe.
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Syntax
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Syntax »

Csync shoot straight thru the jungle sync stripper and gets to the screen a bit early.
Does comp video sit differently?
HellRazor
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by HellRazor »

Going try that one: KV-14M5 https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... info/1825/
but again found a digital RGB only jungle chip CXA1871S http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... 801850.pdf
how bad this can be? im confuse theres difference in quality compared to analog jungle chips?
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

HellRazor wrote:Going try that one: KV-14M5 https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... info/1825/
but again found a digital RGB only jungle chip CXA1871S http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... 801850.pdf
how bad this can be? im confuse theres difference in quality compared to analog jungle chips?
Digital is on/off. Analog is infinite shades.
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
HellRazor
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by HellRazor »

MarkOZLAD wrote:Digital is on/off. Analog is infinite shades.
Thanks Mark but i dont get a clue, you talking about infinite shades of grey? sounds like digital its not the way to go on that mods.
Last edited by HellRazor on Tue Feb 19, 2019 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Pikkon
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pikkon »

Digital rgb will not work,you would have to go to the neckboard but that's a lot of work.
HellRazor
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by HellRazor »

oh i get it, now i check the datasheet again and realize theres no analog input on the thing, time to move on to the next, at least that set has a cool VCR module that i can mess with, was having the idea of just remove that jungle chip and put a compatible one with the analog pins on it, but no...
Last edited by HellRazor on Wed Feb 20, 2019 12:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

HellRazor wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:Digital is on/off. Analog is infinite shades.
Thanks Mark but i dont get a clue, you talking about infinite shades of gray? sounds like digital its not the way to go on that mods.
They would be infinite shades of grey on a B & W TV but once the gun is pointed to red, green and blue phosphor....
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
HellRazor
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by HellRazor »

oh got it thanks for the explanation! So i back to the set that i first ask when i join the forum, the Sharp 29ST58, that one have some sentimental value to me since thats the one i use to play snes on the late 90s, cant believe the thing still working, i finally been able to remove the board with the help of some oil on the sides of the chassis, here your instructions about that one:
MarkOZLAD wrote:Jungle is IC200 TDA8375. Microcontroller is IC100 L864128.

OSD External RGB Mux method for this one. Remove R107, R108 and R109, we will use the holes left by these resistors to implement the OSD mux. Twist together the legs of (three) 1KR and 75R resistors. Solder the free leg of the 1KR resistors into the holes that have traces that go to the jungle. Solder the free legs of the 75R to the holes that are connected to ground. Connect your RGB wires to the twisted legs.

For a simple blanking circuit connect a 5V line to a switch and then to a 680R resistor (a 1KR and the connect to the leg of R110 that is farthest from the micro controller. 5V can be found on leg 8 of IC102.

Should be very similar to the 8-Bit Guy's RGB mod.
Just to clarify, when you say "connect a 5V line to a switch and then to a 680R resistor" you are referring to connect the switch direct to R110, which alrealdy is a 680R resistor, or put one more on the mix so i get two 680R in series? thanks!
Edit: yeah i think you are saying about two 680 in series to get 1KR, going check on the mux calculator.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

HellRazor wrote: Just to clarify, when you say "connect a 5V line to a switch and then to a 680R resistor" you are referring to connect the switch direct to R110, which alrealdy is a 680R resistor, or put one more on the mix so i get two 680R in series? thanks!
Edit: yeah i think you are saying about two 680 in series to get 1KR, going check on the mux calculator.
That's not what I meant.

5V -> Switch -> 680R -> Leg of R110 that is FARTHEST from microcontroller.

We are mimicking the microcontroller by doing this.

Another way to do it would be to lift the leg of R110 that is CLOSEST to the microcontroller, solder a wire from the empty hole you left to one side of a switch, solder a wire from 5V to the other side of the switch and then run a wire from the switch output to the leg of R110 that we lifted. This is the pattern the 8-Bit Guy ended up implementing.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
HellRazor
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2018 11:50 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by HellRazor »

I found out that R110 is a SMD resistor, i think they miss this detail on that manual https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... 29st58-622
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Theres like no space at all to solder between him and a micro transistor(or diode i dont know really), what i do in that case? just put a wire there? can i use R111 for this task?
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MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

HellRazor wrote:can i use R111 for this task?
Yes, go with plan A and solder the wire to the leg of R111 that isn't grounded

5V->Switch->680R->Leg of R111 that isn't grounded.

....As soon as I wrote my post I had a feeling you'd come back and say R110 is SMD.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
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