Questions that do not deserve a thread
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks for the Infos Star. Then it is just as I thought. I have already assumed that both cables are of decent Quality and it is more a matter of personal taste which one I should buy.
Then it is a easy question. If I Need it now the cable from the foe is the best choice. If I can wait, the Retro gaming uk cable is a good choice as well.
They are both similar in Price, if I get the packerpunch cable, the Retro gaming cables uk Option is even more expensiv.
That brings to my next question. are the Standard cables from Retro gaming cables good enough or shall I get the packapunch Version?
Then it is a easy question. If I Need it now the cable from the foe is the best choice. If I can wait, the Retro gaming uk cable is a good choice as well.
They are both similar in Price, if I get the packerpunch cable, the Retro gaming cables uk Option is even more expensiv.
That brings to my next question. are the Standard cables from Retro gaming cables good enough or shall I get the packapunch Version?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I would argue that if you're using it on a CRT or going into an OSSC with adjustable low-pass filtering, you're fine with the regular cables (unless you're a real stickler for quality).Revolver Ocelot wrote:Thanks for the Infos Star. Then it is just as I thought. I have already assumed that both cables are of decent Quality and it is more a matter of personal taste which one I should buy.
Then it is a easy question. If I Need it now the cable from the foe is the best choice. If I can wait, the Retro gaming uk cable is a good choice as well.
They are both similar in Price, if I get the packerpunch cable, the Retro gaming cables uk Option is even more expensiv.
That brings to my next question. are the Standard cables from Retro gaming cables good enough or shall I get the packapunch Version?
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I see. Thanks for your opinion. I will use the cable on my Pansonic LCD TV with my Framemeister. On the FM the normal cables should be fine enought as well I suppose?bobrocks95 wrote:I would argue that if you're using it on a CRT or going into an OSSC with adjustable low-pass filtering, you're fine with the regular cables (unless you're a real stickler for quality).Revolver Ocelot wrote:Thanks for the Infos Star. Then it is just as I thought. I have already assumed that both cables are of decent Quality and it is more a matter of personal taste which one I should buy.
Then it is a easy question. If I Need it now the cable from the foe is the best choice. If I can wait, the Retro gaming uk cable is a good choice as well.
They are both similar in Price, if I get the packerpunch cable, the Retro gaming cables uk Option is even more expensiv.
That brings to my next question. are the Standard cables from Retro gaming cables good enough or shall I get the packapunch Version?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The Framemeister might show noise more easily? Or I thought in another thread I read FBX talking about it having forced low-pass filtering, which would make things fine? I'm not really the expert for the Framemeister.Revolver Ocelot wrote:I see. Thanks for your opinion. I will use the cable on my Pansonic LCD TV with my Framemeister. On the FM the normal cables should be fine enought as well I suppose?bobrocks95 wrote:I would argue that if you're using it on a CRT or going into an OSSC with adjustable low-pass filtering, you're fine with the regular cables (unless you're a real stickler for quality).
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Not an expert on the Framemeister either. I am just trying to find out the right settings for it. In general noise is no problem. My Gamecube with RGB and and my Dreamcast with RGB offers a very nice Image. Just my cheap Saturn rgb cable has some noise in the Picture thats why i am looking for a update.bobrocks95 wrote:The Framemeister might show noise more easily? Or I thought in another thread I read FBX talking about it having forced low-pass filtering, which would make things fine? I'm not really the expert for the Framemeister.Revolver Ocelot wrote:I see. Thanks for your opinion. I will use the cable on my Pansonic LCD TV with my Framemeister. On the FM the normal cables should be fine enought as well I suppose?bobrocks95 wrote:I would argue that if you're using it on a CRT or going into an OSSC with adjustable low-pass filtering, you're fine with the regular cables (unless you're a real stickler for quality).
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The Framemeister as of the current firmware has 'shoddy' LPF that cannot be controlled. The major issue with this being Sega Saturn games that run in 352 H-res mode. Many Saturn consoles will show ugly jail bars on the Framemeister in this mode, wheres on the OSSC, you can set it to 9MHz video LPF (or simply Auto) and it completely removes the jail bars.bobrocks95 wrote:
The Framemeister might show noise more easily? Or I thought in another thread I read FBX talking about it having forced low-pass filtering, which would make things fine? I'm not really the expert for the Framemeister.
At any rate, I've got a question for Dreamcast experts:
The wiki for DC VGA mode claims it outputs in 720x480p, but the OS menu and my copy of Code Veronica both only show 640 active graphics. Are there any VGA DC games that actually go past 640 H-res?
-FBX
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
not really. I think there a few titles that use transition screens in full res. Just like the white DC bootscreen, which fills the full 720 px width.Are there any VGA DC games that actually go past 640 H-res?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I scoured the Internet and pretty much the consensus is there's no game that goes beyond 640. I needed to know this for my optimal timing work on the OSSC. Thanks!Fudoh wrote:not really. I think there a few titles that use transition screens in full res. Just like the white DC bootscreen, which fills the full 720 px width.Are there any VGA DC games that actually go past 640 H-res?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Does anyone know if there's an EDID minder/emulator for 4k capable gear that supports 60hz and HDR?
OSSC Forums - http://www.videogameperfection.com/forums
Please check the Wiki before posting about Morph, OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page
Please check the Wiki before posting about Morph, OSSC, XRGB Mini or XRGB3 - http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/Main_Page
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
FBX wrote:The Framemeister as of the current firmware has 'shoddy' LPF that cannot be controlled. The major issue with this being Sega Saturn games that run in 352 H-res mode. Many Saturn consoles will show ugly jail bars on the Framemeister in this mode, wheres on the OSSC, you can set it to 9MHz video LPF (or simply Auto) and it completely removes the jail bars.bobrocks95 wrote:
The Framemeister might show noise more easily? Or I thought in another thread I read FBX talking about it having forced low-pass filtering, which would make things fine? I'm not really the expert for the Framemeister.
At any rate, I've got a question for Dreamcast experts:
The wiki for DC VGA mode claims it outputs in 720x480p, but the OS menu and my copy of Code Veronica both only show 640 active graphics. Are there any VGA DC games that actually go past 640 H-res?
-FBX
Thanks for the info. I was not aware that the Framemeister has this Problem with Sega Saturn. Would the packapunch cable help to minimise the problem is there nothing that can be done against it?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
HDFury Integral is probably the best answer. The Linker and Vertex have scaling and I don't know if they degrade the video signal during passthrough.BuckoA51 wrote:Does anyone know if there's an EDID minder/emulator for 4k capable gear that supports 60hz and HDR?
We apologise for the inconvenience
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I have a stock AV Famicom, and I plan to have it RGB modded in the future. For the time being, composite is the best I can get out of it which I will feed into my framemeister. My question is, would the standard Nintendo OEM AV cables be the best for a composite signal? Or are there better quality composite video cables out there for a NES/SNES/N64/GCN?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Got a question about displaying Dreamcast 480p through Toro into a BVM-D14H1E (via BKM129X):
How do you handle the wrong 720x480 output to restore the correct aspect ratio? Even pushing the HSIZE to +31 isn't enough it seems. Do I need something of the likes of the Extron DVS204?
How do you handle the wrong 720x480 output to restore the correct aspect ratio? Even pushing the HSIZE to +31 isn't enough it seems. Do I need something of the likes of the Extron DVS204?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Quick Extron switch question -
I've got a Crosspoint 300 1616. On the back, it has a series of switches for 75ohm and 510ohm sync.
According to the manual, it should be set to 75ohm for 75ohm outputs, and 510ohm for every other output. However, the more I'm reading the more I'm getting confused and doubting this.
Everything I read by both Voultar and RetroRGB seems to imply that you want 75ohm sync coming out the back of your console, or at the very least your cable. However, the Extron manual seems to imply that they want a TTL level sync coming from the input.
Can I get a bit of clarification on what I should be setting the switches to for a SNES, N64, and Mega Drive?
And would it also be possible to get clarification on the output level of sync signals from the Crosspoint?
Thanks!
I've got a Crosspoint 300 1616. On the back, it has a series of switches for 75ohm and 510ohm sync.
According to the manual, it should be set to 75ohm for 75ohm outputs, and 510ohm for every other output. However, the more I'm reading the more I'm getting confused and doubting this.
Everything I read by both Voultar and RetroRGB seems to imply that you want 75ohm sync coming out the back of your console, or at the very least your cable. However, the Extron manual seems to imply that they want a TTL level sync coming from the input.
Can I get a bit of clarification on what I should be setting the switches to for a SNES, N64, and Mega Drive?
And would it also be possible to get clarification on the output level of sync signals from the Crosspoint?
Thanks!
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The switches are for changing high level non-TTL sync signals down to a range the Crosspoint likes.Jademalo wrote:Quick Extron switch question -
I've got a Crosspoint 300 1616. On the back, it has a series of switches for 75ohm and 510ohm sync.
According to the manual, it should be set to 75ohm for 75ohm outputs, and 510ohm for every other output. However, the more I'm reading the more I'm getting confused and doubting this.
Consoles are not going to be outputting that so go ahead and have them in the default 510ohm position.
It's because the Crosspoint devices weren't really designed for video game consoles, however when cabled correctly they happen to work really good for them.Jademalo wrote: Everything I read by both Voultar and RetroRGB seems to imply that you want 75ohm sync coming out the back of your console, or at the very least your cable. However, the Extron manual seems to imply that they want a TTL level sync coming from the input.
The output level is going to be higher then you would want for most situations. The popular cable manufacturers have cables with the proper components in them specifically for the Crosspoints to get the sync level down to an acceptable level.Jademalo wrote: And would it also be possible to get clarification on the output level of sync signals from the Crosspoint?
Thanks!
That said, if your going into a PVM, it might be able to handle the unmodified signal fine (check the manual for it). Also if you plan to use it as a Component video switcher you also don't need to worry about the sync level as it only applies to the sync outputs, not the RGB outputs.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The problem is in the Saturn itself. It doesn't have internal video LPF for 352 and 704 modes (at least some Saturns don't anyway), and so these jail bars can even be seen on CRTs or hooking the console up to a display without a Framemeister. Since the OSSC's 9MHz Video LPF setting completely removes the jail bars, it sort of proves the point of it being the Saturn's lack of LPF for those modes.Revolver Ocelot wrote:
Thanks for the info. I was not aware that the Framemeister has this Problem with Sega Saturn. Would the packapunch cable help to minimise the problem is there nothing that can be done against it?
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
In a nutshell, if from your Crosspoint you run to something like an OSSC, Framemeister, Shinybow SB-2840, or a RGB TV if you live in Europe (guessing here as I live in the states), you want a 470Ω resistor on the sync line. That's it. You need this because the sync coming off the extron is 5vp-p, and those consumer-oriented devices are only safe to use with around 1vp-p and under. Your PVM, BVM, any other pro-type converter/transcoder/up/downscaler boxes (i.e. Extron, Kramer, etc.) are all fine with the higher level sync for the most point. Even YPbPr/Component coming off the Crosspoint is fine since only the H Sync and V Sync lines are raised up to that ;dangerous' 5vp-p level.Jademalo wrote:Quick Extron switch question -
I've got a Crosspoint 300 1616. On the back, it has a series of switches for 75ohm and 510ohm sync.
According to the manual, it should be set to 75ohm for 75ohm outputs, and 510ohm for every other output. However, the more I'm reading the more I'm getting confused and doubting this.
Everything I read by both Voultar and RetroRGB seems to imply that you want 75ohm sync coming out the back of your console, or at the very least your cable. However, the Extron manual seems to imply that they want a TTL level sync coming from the input.
Can I get a bit of clarification on what I should be setting the switches to for a SNES, N64, and Mega Drive?
And would it also be possible to get clarification on the output level of sync signals from the Crosspoint?
Thanks!
Here's a good article about this: https://www.snailtoothgaming.com/articl ... nc-output/
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Minor correction/clarification: AV3 on the OSSC (VGA/DE-15 port) requires TTL sync; it's only AV1 (SCART) that you would need to bring sync down to 1Vp-p with that resistor.Dochartaigh wrote:In a nutshell, if from your Crosspoint you run to something like an OSSC... you want a 470Ω resistor on the sync line.
Now, you could very well connect the output of the CrossPoint directly to AV3 on the OSSC, but AV3 is intended for high-quality sources, like PCs, and has insufficient filtering for retro consoles.
The OSSC wiki specifically recommends AV1 and AV2 for retro consoles, as they have stronger low-pass filtering, so, if your CrossPoint is going to be primarily for retro consoles, it would be preferable to connect it to AV1 on the OSSC, with the composite sync signal attenuated with the 470Ω resistor.
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maxtherabbit
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Does anyone recognize this?
I've had 2 model 1 genesis' apart in the past week and found this thing inside one of them under the bottom RF shield
Never seen it before, pretty sure it's not meant to be in there. Even watched 3 youtube vids of console tear-downs and saw nothing of the sort
I've had 2 model 1 genesis' apart in the past week and found this thing inside one of them under the bottom RF shield
Never seen it before, pretty sure it's not meant to be in there. Even watched 3 youtube vids of console tear-downs and saw nothing of the sort
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Yup, and all mine look dirty without the low pass filter which is why I use the SCART AV1 which needs a resistor (it would be a lot easier and cheaper to use a simple BNC to VGA cable though! Wish that port had a LPF!).nmalinoski wrote:Minor correction/clarification: AV3 on the OSSC (VGA/DE-15 port) requires TTL sync; it's only AV1 (SCART) that you would need to bring sync down to 1Vp-p with that resistor.Dochartaigh wrote:In a nutshell, if from your Crosspoint you run to something like an OSSC... you want a 470Ω resistor on the sync line.
Now, you could very well connect the output of the CrossPoint directly to AV3 on the OSSC, but AV3 is intended for high-quality sources, like PCs, and has insufficient filtering for retro consoles.
The OSSC wiki specifically recommends AV1 and AV2 for retro consoles, as they have stronger low-pass filtering, so, if your CrossPoint is going to be primarily for retro consoles, it would be preferable to connect it to AV1 on the OSSC, with the composite sync signal attenuated with the 470Ω resistor.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I am thinkning of getting a Gamecube and wonder if it s worth considering one of the HDMI mods or is a neat RGB Scart cable in connection with the Framemeister good enough? I will get most likely a pal gamecube so most of the games do not offer 480p. And one the big advantages for the component or HDMi outputs should be the 480p ouput. But how well 576i or 480 i would look with HDMI. Is HDMI still worth considering or shall I just get a scart rgb cable for the Framemeister?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
maxtherabbit wrote:Does anyone recognize this?
I've had 2 model 1 genesis' apart in the past week and found this thing inside one of them under the bottom RF shield
Never seen it before, pretty sure it's not meant to be in there. Even watched 3 youtube vids of console tear-downs and saw nothing of the sort
Its the tab for the security screw on the back of the MD.
Look for the hole around the centre of the case and slot it in there, nothing else holds it in.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thank you, that was an extremely interesting read. It definitely looks like I'm going to have to add some resistors to my BNC to SCART outputs from the Crosspoint. I had no idea that it boosted the sync to such high levels.Dochartaigh wrote:In a nutshell, if from your Crosspoint you run to something like an OSSC, Framemeister, Shinybow SB-2840, or a RGB TV if you live in Europe (guessing here as I live in the states), you want a 470Ω resistor on the sync line. That's it. You need this because the sync coming off the extron is 5vp-p, and those consumer-oriented devices are only safe to use with around 1vp-p and under. Your PVM, BVM, any other pro-type converter/transcoder/up/downscaler boxes (i.e. Extron, Kramer, etc.) are all fine with the higher level sync for the most point. Even YPbPr/Component coming off the Crosspoint is fine since only the H Sync and V Sync lines are raised up to that ;dangerous' 5vp-p level.
Here's a good article about this: https://www.snailtoothgaming.com/articl ... nc-output/
So my current setup is this. All consoles are feeding either RGBs or YPbPr into the Crosspoint. I then have three outputs;
- A Sony BVM-20F1E
An XRGB Mini
An OSSC
The XRGB Mini and the OSSC are both connected using Retrogamingcables.co.uk's BNC to Male SCART cable. They're older ones without the directional switch, but they're wired for output. As far as I'm aware, these don't have the 470ohm resistor in them, so they'll need that to attenuate the sync line.
My biggest concern is I've been using this setup for years. I remember noticing snow when using the SNES through the Mini, and I'm wondering if this is related.
How much damage could this realistically have done to my Mini and OSSC? They seem to be fine, but I'm still pretty concerned.
Anyway, I've ordered myself a few 470ohm resistors and an actually usable soldering iron, hopefully that will let me sort it.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Hey All,
I recently picked up a Sony PVM-14L4.
Does anyone know if this monitor needs 75ohm termination plugs on the RGBs outputs, or is it self terminating? I checked the manual but I'm not 100% sure.
Thanks!
I recently picked up a Sony PVM-14L4.
Does anyone know if this monitor needs 75ohm termination plugs on the RGBs outputs, or is it self terminating? I checked the manual but I'm not 100% sure.
Thanks!
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
All PVM monitors have automatic termination, so there is no need for termination plugs. Only BVM monitors need them.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Damn, one of my Extron PSUs has died. Absolutely no idea why. Devices are fine since the other one works, but I'm not getting anything with one of them.
What's the go to extron replacement PSU in the UK/EU nowadays?
I know there's this one, but £40 is pretty steep.
What's the go to extron replacement PSU in the UK/EU nowadays?
I know there's this one, but £40 is pretty steep.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
TME has the Mean Well at 27 EUR incl. tax. (EDIT: sorry, out of stock till late summer).
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Alright, ty! I'll keep my eye on it
No real rush, it's just for my Andora.
No real rush, it's just for my Andora.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Ah I see, thanks for clarifying!Namingway_PL wrote:All PVM monitors have automatic termination, so there is no need for termination plugs. Only BVM monitors need them.
On a related note....is there any way to connect a PVM output to a CRT SCART input? (I'm in Europe). If using a BNC > SCART cable, The RGBs output of the PVM wouldn't have the correct voltage on SCART pin 16 to make the CRT switch to RGB.
I saw Coury from MLiG has a Toshiba CRT daisy chained to his PVM, but maybe that's more straight forward as it's a TV with component inputs, rather than SCART?
EDIT: Rob from RetroGamingCables suggested wiring a DC power source into the SCART head at the TV end, to provide the power to pin 16 on the TV, therefore switching it to RGB mode. Any easier way?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
If your TV can't be manually set to RGB (many Sony TVs can), then you can add a battery or a USB power supply to your connection cable.If using a BNC > SCART cable, The RGBs output of the PVM wouldn't have the correct voltage on SCART pin 16 to make the CRT switch to RGB.