Looking for advice for cables/sync and my setup.

[MrMFretwell]

Hi guys!

I wanted to get a thread going discussing my retro setup and plans for the future and get some solid answers for what I should be doing moving forward. I've taken the time to read up on Sync types within Component video so I have a basic understanding of the three types. Now I'm looking to choose the best options for my setup to work in the long run.

Right now my setup is as follows:

NES > Composite RCA Cable (will get this RGB modded in the future)
SNES > SCART (Sync on LUMA)
PS2 > SCART (CSYNC)
GameCube/GameBoy Player (w/ interface) > SCART (CSYNC)
Wii > Component RCA Cables (unsure of the sync type, if any, plan to buy a CSYNC cable soon)

I have all of these running into an XRGB-Mini Framemeister (the SCARTs through a SCART to mini DIN passive adapter) and then out to a splitter to my TV and a capture card installed on my computer. All of my equipment is PAL region.

I want to add a scart switcher to my setup as well as migrate the remaining consoles onto SCART in the coming months and get prepared for buying a CRT. As a result I've been doing research in getting the best possible quality and compatible equipment when it comes to the switcher that requires as few changes as possible. From my research I understand CSYNC is the best option, and as such I've been trying to purchase these cables (retrogamingcables PACKAPUNCH range). I have however read that the PAL SNES does not take CSYNC and it can actually damage the equipment if I try. So am I just stuck with LUMA here, or is there anything I can do to get a CSYNC cable? Furthermore for my switcher I have been looking at the gscartw as my best option, and I'm reading that the device has a toggleable Sync Stripper inside, will I just need to switch this whenever I'm not using a CYSNC cable? and is there any other incompatabilites I should be aware of and is there any way of getting to a point where I can leave the switch on or off all the time, its just more of a convenience thing and if not that is okay. But I'm trying to strive for the most streamlined setup, but I understand in chasing the best possible picture quality I may have to make some sacrifces to the convienience.

Many thanks for reading, hopefully this can help me and others.

[ASDR]

I would recommend you read the guides at retrorgb.com and whatch the relevant videos on the MyLifeInGaming YouTube channel. They're fantastic. A few random points:

- csync is not neccessarily better. The main reason to prefer it is that some devices (like PVMs) might only accept that sync type and if you have poorly build cables / switches there can be interference with sync-on-composite. If you don't have compatibility or image issues, don't bother upgrading.
- The PS2 can't output csync without a mod, so I don't think you have csync with that one. I'd recommend a quality component cable
- Same for the GC (not sure if there even is a mod?). I'd recommend one of the HDMI/Component adapters if you have a DOL-001 model or just settle for SCART RGB with sync-on-composite
- RGC UK, fantastic products & service, good choice!
- I can recommend the Bandridge SVB-7725 SCART switch. Dirt cheap, perfect image, 100% compatibility with everything, dasy chainable. My main beef with the gscartsw is that it needs to detect sync to work. That means sync types it doesn't understand (sync-on-green), broken / weird / modded consoles with wonky sync signals or doing unusual things like TTL sync or YPbPr over SCART won't work. If that doesn't matter to you and you don't mind spending the cash, the gscartsw is a great option.
- There's no csync for component video consoles by definition. It's always sync-on-luma (there's just three wires!)
- PAL is a bummer

[MrMFretwell]

thanks! yeah I'm going through the guides provided here to see what I might be missing.

- understood, I'm buying all of my cables from retrogamingcables so I know they have the extra shielding needed to prevent interference.
- I've look a look into the Bandridge SVB-7725, and I'm reading that there is issues with it and CSYNC cables here so would I need to purchase new cables for the PS2 and GameCube?

thanks for the feedback, this has been very helpful!

[ASDR]

Ok, this csync incompatibility thing on VGP is a total WTF for me. First time I've heard of this, MyLifeInGaming also never mentioned this when they did a review of the switch. I have many csync cables hooked up through multiple 7725's, including the SNES & MD mentioned in the article, and haven't encountered a single case of unstable sync in hundreds of hours of play. I don't even understand how the switch could possibly do this. It's a passive switch, it doesn't even know what your sync is. It just connects 21 pins on the input to 21 pins on the output. What kind of passive, direct, electrical connection could pass sync-on-luma while mangling csync?

VGP also mentioned some brightness & sharpness lost. I can't confirm this and when you look at the detailed comparisons in the MyLifeInGaming review you can see that's not the case.

I can only imagine they got a defective switch or a different model (there's a VSB 7725, a 7735, ...).

I bought my switches for 17EUR+shipping on Amazon, great deal.

Also, as I mentioned, I doubt you have csync for your GC & PS2 as those consoles do not output csync.

[Kez]

I have used a bandridge manual switcher for a bunch of csync consoles with no issues, so I don't think it's a universal or even common problem.

If you have csync cables for PS2 or GC then they must have built in sync strippers, if csync does cause issues it probably wouldn't be too difficult to remove the stripper altogether and restore luma/sync on composite.

[MrMFretwell]

Yes, quite right, they have inbuilt sync strippers, so this wouldn't cause any issues?

[ASDR]

Yes, quite right, they have inbuilt sync strippers, so this wouldn't cause any issues?

The Bandrige won't (or rather can't) care about your sync stripper, but some other equipment might. Generally it is not recommended to use them unless you have a specific reason, like a device that is only compatible with that sync type. Sync strippers can cause image shift and incorrectly build cables often output wrong signal levels. For the PS2 it's better to use component or RGsB anyway.

[MrMFretwell]

Yes, quite right, they have inbuilt sync strippers, so this wouldn't cause any issues?

The Bandrige won't (or rather can't) care about your sync stripper, but some other equipment might. Generally it is not recommended to use them unless you have a specific reason, like a device that is only compatible with that sync type. Sync strippers can cause image shift and incorrectly build cables often output wrong signal levels. For the PS2 it's better to use component or RGsB anyway.

Ah okay, thanks. I'll keep this in mind for the future.

[hurda]

In related news:
Retro Gaming Cables was testing some SCART-switchers re: sync, but I don't know if it was just for internal usage or if it's going to turn into an article/blogpost:

"Gonna be testing the Hydra 2, Hydra mini, Bandridge SVB7733 and SVB7735 for compatibility with all sync types #RETROGAMING"
https://twitter.com/retro_cables/status ... 6751318018
"I cannot comment on the GSCARTsw as I blow mine up"
https://twitter.com/retro_cables/status ... 8228428801

"Nearly finished my test cables"
https://www.facebook.com/www.retrogamin ... 70/?type=3
"Time to get serious, testing the Hydra 2"
https://www.facebook.com/www.retrogamin ... 17/?type=3
https://www.facebook.com/www.retrogamin ... 77/?type=3

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmfpwOfl1tT ... mingcables
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmiyuiElraP ... mingcables
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmtG-eBlv-Z ... mingcables