Super SD System 3

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PC Engine Fan X!
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by PC Engine Fan X! »

cyborc wrote:
Dochartaigh wrote:I've never owned a TG16. What always put me off from getting one is there's like 200 different variations of it and it's confusing as hell (just a small sampling: TurboGrafx-16, SuperGrafx, Duo, TurboDuo, Super CD, CoreGrafx I and II, LT, Duo R/RX, etc. etc. etc.).

So if I get this card, and a regular NTSC/North America TurboGrafx-16 which looks like the below, I'll be able to play it's COMPLETE library, including all the different CD-Rom variations? If so, I'll probably wait until a bit until they work out any possible kinks but these do sound very cool.

Image



The only thing I'm confused about is the TG16 needs an add-on board to output RGBS from it, right? So is this a CARD that you put into the TG16's 'cartridge' slot, or does it plug into the back and there's a spot on the back of it you can plug your correct RGB cable into it? (there's no pictures of anything like that...)
There's an expansion port on the back of the TG16 that the super sd system3 plugs into. the super sd system 3 has an RGB output on the back of the unit, which uses the Genesis2/MD2 connector pinout. the ext port on the tg16 is covered by the black piece on the back of the console.
It's been confirmed that the Super SD System 3 works like a charm on USA region TG-16 consoles. That's awesome news. I'll definitely be buying one for use with my TG-16 & Core Grafx II consoles. Seems like the ol' Turbo Duo & PC Engine Duo-RX consoles that I own can be retired/put out to pasture -- or just kept as backups just in case the need arises.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
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ASDR
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by ASDR »

Neodev wrote: Well, I already told you that it was an overlook from my side, the rgb circuit was designed with the proper values and AC coupling next to the video chip as it's the proper way to do it. Following the pinout I didn't check my cables to ensure they were connected straight to rgb pins as that would be the expected way (placing the coupling at thenend of the cable is worse). The only issue noticed after changing it is that the brightness was lower.
Most of the developing time was spent on the actual hardware emulation (cd, arcade card, system cards...). You can also check dbBooster author blog where he also suffered some issues with passive/non passive cables, so that's not a trivial iswue.
The usage of the genesis2 cable was just for ease of use for the user, as we developed hardware and not cables.
Hey neodev, could you weigh in on the entire discussion regarding PC Engine having a little higher voltage on the RGB lines (https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?t ... 1#msg34061) and potentially correcting that inside the cable (viewtopic.php?p=1290174#p1290174)? Did you hook up a scope and check the voltage levels or could you show us a capture with a standard MD2 cable of i.e. the color bar test from the 240p testsuite (http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?titl ... Color_Bars) so we can see for ourselves if it's worth preparing/ordering a special cable for?
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mickcris
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by mickcris »

paulb_nl wrote:
ASDR wrote:What confuses me, why do we use a simple in series 470 ohm resistor to attenuate TTL csync into video level sync, but need a voltage divider to attenuate our video levels? Is that because the sync pulses are of a known/fixed voltage & current draw?
The 470 Ohm resistor forms a voltage divider with the 75 Ohm resistor to ground in the display/scaler. Also The Megadrive doesn't output 0.7 V but it outputs 1.4 V and is attenuated by the 75 Ohm in the cable and 75 Ohm in the display.
Sorry, the calculations I put above weren't exactly perfect. It should have 0.8v before the amp and 1.6v after. Instead of the normal 0.7v before and 1.4v after. but the calculations still work out the same. Then once terminated, it would be 0.7v due to the 75 ohm equivalent resistance in the cable and the 75 ohm resistor in the display device.

Image

with 91 and 470
Image

with just a normal geneis cable it would be this:
Image
Last edited by mickcris on Sun Dec 17, 2017 3:02 am, edited 3 times in total.
PC Engine Fan X!
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by PC Engine Fan X! »

DirkSwizzler wrote:
Dochartaigh wrote:So if I get this card, and a regular NTSC/North America TurboGrafx-16 which looks like the below, I'll be able to play it's COMPLETE library, including all the different CD-Rom variations? If so, I'll probably wait until a bit until they work out any possible kinks but these do sound very cool.

Image



The only thing I'm confused about is the TG16 needs an add-on board to output RGBS from it, right? So is this a CARD that you put into the TG16's 'cartridge' slot, or does it plug into the back and there's a spot on the back of it you can plug your correct RGB cable into it? (there's no pictures of anything like that...)
Nearly the complete library. The supergrafx can play 6 exclusive titles that the rest can’t. And theoretically improves a handful of games. Similar to the N64 ram pack.

All pce/tg16 units need an expansion board or a mod to output rgbs. The duos with the built in cd drive do NOT have the slot to support this or any external rgbs expansion.

This unit eliminates the need for an alternate rgbs solution and fits any unit that has the slot. They claim that they haven’t tested the fit of a tg16. But it’s pin compatible if you have a dremel to fix any problems that come up.

I would choose a pce over the tg16 though because the controllers have different plugs and all the good controllers are for pce.

You can adapt, but just skip that nonsense.
You can use PC Engine game pads and arcade sticks on a TG-16 console, it's just that you'd need a PCE to TG-16 controller adapter. Here's one for sale on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Duo-Core-Grafx ... XQrhdTT2Oc Or you can use up to five PC Engine controllers on a PCE Multi-tap and hookup the multi-tap to the PCE to TG-16 controller adapter. Easy as pie.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
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JBC
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by JBC »

Syntax wrote:Someone should lend those kids a scope, id suggest it but "ROT the Impailer" would surely strike.
I read through that whole thread & could not believe what a jerk that guy was being. The new members who joined for that thread are potential NeoSD customers so that could be bad for business. I'm glad I got my order in without having any questions or concerns. I'll never post there.
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Syntax
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Syntax »

Let's stay focused on thinking about software suggestions for the SSD3S and forget about those idiots and their egos.
FriendofSonic
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by FriendofSonic »

So, I'm not 100% clear-- does there need to be any modification to the Genesis 2 cable for this to work properly? I'm a little dense in this area.
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mickcris
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by mickcris »

FriendofSonic wrote:So, I'm not 100% clear-- does there need to be any modification to the Genesis 2 cable for this to work properly? I'm a little dense in this area.
It will work with a normal genesis 2 cable, but might be too bright. Some people might not even notice that's it too bright though. they have not said yet if they did anything to reduce the output voltage before the amp, but i doubt that they did. They have said that they didn't put much time into the rgb circuit. RGB was not the main focus of this device so I dont think its a big deal.

I'm personally not going to use the RGB output on this and continue to use the internal amp in my console.
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gojira54
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by gojira54 »

Neodev has stated that the rgb amp will have zero ohm jumpers on the output, this is so that 'md2' cables will be expected to have 75 ohm & 220uf present on the RGB lines in the cable.
I just took apart the md2 cable I have - it has 100 ohm resistors on each RGB line only :s
I'm going to remake the cable I have with 75 ohm & 220uf on the RGB lines and make up another cable as per mickcris's suggestion.
When the SSDS3 (bit of a mouthful lol) turns up I will compare the output - I'm guessing the difference is going to be minimal.
Problem (for neosd) is though the original cable only having 100 ohm on the lines, I don't think md2 cables are made to a spec, seems pretty random and so different people will get different results, and likely the most vocal about any problems will be the ones unable to reconfigure.
Neodev
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Neodev »

ASDR wrote:
Neodev wrote: Well, I already told you that it was an overlook from my side, the rgb circuit was designed with the proper values and AC coupling next to the video chip as it's the proper way to do it. Following the pinout I didn't check my cables to ensure they were connected straight to rgb pins as that would be the expected way (placing the coupling at thenend of the cable is worse). The only issue noticed after changing it is that the brightness was lower.
Most of the developing time was spent on the actual hardware emulation (cd, arcade card, system cards...). You can also check dbBooster author blog where he also suffered some issues with passive/non passive cables, so that's not a trivial iswue.
The usage of the genesis2 cable was just for ease of use for the user, as we developed hardware and not cables.
Hey neodev, could you weigh in on the entire discussion regarding PC Engine having a little higher voltage on the RGB lines (https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?t ... 1#msg34061) and potentially correcting that inside the cable (viewtopic.php?p=1290174#p1290174)? Did you hook up a scope and check the voltage levels or could you show us a capture with a standard MD2 cable of i.e. the color bar test from the 240p testsuite (http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php?titl ... Color_Bars) so we can see for ourselves if it's worth preparing/ordering a special cable for?
First, excuse me for the quality of my scope :). it's not too good for video signals, but to see the peak voltages, it's ok. Here is a capture of one rgb channel of the output of the PCE when showing a full white screen:
Image

The low voltage portions of the image are the h blanking + black borders
You can see it's 0.8V peak to peak. I also captured the output of the amplifier and it's 1.6Vpp so yes, it will be 0.8Vpp in the scart pin, after the 75ohm in the cable.
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ASDR
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by ASDR »

Neodev wrote: First, excuse me for the quality of my scope :). it's not too good for video signals, but to see the peak voltages, it's ok. Here is a capture of one rgb channel of the output of the PCE when showing a full white screen:
Image

The low voltage portions of the image are the h blanking + black borders
You can see it's 0.8V peak to peak. I also captured the output of the amplifier and it's 1.6Vpp so yes, it will be 0.8Vpp in the scart pin, after the 75ohm in the cable.
Thanks so much! It's great to have some hard data on the output.

I've seen your colleague express frustration on ng.com that we all talk about cables instead of something more interesting. I totally understand that frustration, you just unveiled your product to the world and everybody is bitching about the cable thing. But I hope you also see how passionate parts of your customer base is about A/V stuff. Many of us also got into tinkering and modding while we got into the retro gaming hobby and we have a lot of money and energy invested in our various displays, scalers, switchers and cables.

I'm personally super excited about what your device can already do today and what updates you might bring in the future. But most of us don't live near a retro cable store and ordering the right cable can have a couple of weeks lead time, so that's just the most pressing thing right now to make sure we can actually hook up the devices when we get them.

Seems like we got 4 options:

- Buy a standard MD2 and live with a slightly brighter/blown out picture, maybe correct with the analog gain on the OSSC (seems like there's a bit of headroom)

- Modify a MD2 cable as discussed for some extra attenuation

- For those with already RGB modded consoles, keep using the existing output. My mod doesn't have csync and we need the audio from the SSDS3 for ADPCM, so that would be kind of a funky bastard cable tapping RGB from one socket and sync & audio from another.

- Get one of the usual cable makers to do any of the above for you
Neodev
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Neodev »

ASDR wrote:
Neodev wrote: First, excuse me for the quality of my scope :). it's not too good for video signals, but to see the peak voltages, it's ok. Here is a capture of one rgb channel of the output of the PCE when showing a full white screen:
Image

The low voltage portions of the image are the h blanking + black borders
You can see it's 0.8V peak to peak. I also captured the output of the amplifier and it's 1.6Vpp so yes, it will be 0.8Vpp in the scart pin, after the 75ohm in the cable.
Thanks so much! It's great to have some hard data on the output.

I've seen your colleague express frustration on ng.com that we all talk about cables instead of something more interesting. I totally understand that frustration, you just unveiled your product to the world and everybody is bitching about the cable thing. But I hope you also see how passionate parts of your customer base is about A/V stuff. Many of us also got into tinkering and modding while we got into the retro gaming hobby and we have a lot of money and energy invested in our various displays, scalers, switchers and cables.

I'm personally super excited about what your device can already do today and what updates you might bring in the future. But most of us don't live near a retro cable store and ordering the right cable can have a couple of weeks lead time, so that's just the most pressing thing right now to make sure we can actually hook up the devices when we get them.

Seems like we got 4 options:

- Buy a standard MD2 and live with a slightly brighter/blown out picture, maybe correct with the analog gain on the OSSC (seems like there's a bit of headroom)

- Modify a MD2 cable as discussed for some extra attenuation

- For those with already RGB modded consoles, keep using the existing output. My mod doesn't have csync and we need the audio from the SSDS3 for ADPCM, so that would be kind of a funky bastard cable tapping RGB from one socket and sync & audio from another.

- Get one of the usual cable makers to do any of the above for you

Which RGB mod are you using? depending on the one you have, you will have the same issue, unless the rgb mod fixes the output levels.
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Limbrooke
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Limbrooke »

PC Engine Fan X! wrote:
cyborc wrote:
Dochartaigh wrote:I've never owned a TG16. What always put me off from getting one is there's like 200 different variations of it and it's confusing as hell (just a small sampling: TurboGrafx-16, SuperGrafx, Duo, TurboDuo, Super CD, CoreGrafx I and II, LT, Duo R/RX, etc. etc. etc.).

So if I get this card, and a regular NTSC/North America TurboGrafx-16 which looks like the below, I'll be able to play it's COMPLETE library, including all the different CD-Rom variations? If so, I'll probably wait until a bit until they work out any possible kinks but these do sound very cool.

Image



The only thing I'm confused about is the TG16 needs an add-on board to output RGBS from it, right? So is this a CARD that you put into the TG16's 'cartridge' slot, or does it plug into the back and there's a spot on the back of it you can plug your correct RGB cable into it? (there's no pictures of anything like that...)
There's an expansion port on the back of the TG16 that the super sd system3 plugs into. the super sd system 3 has an RGB output on the back of the unit, which uses the Genesis2/MD2 connector pinout. the ext port on the tg16 is covered by the black piece on the back of the console.
It's been confirmed that the Super SD System 3 works like a charm on USA region TG-16 consoles. That's awesome news. I'll definitely be buying one for use with my TG-16 & Core Grafx II consoles. Seems like the ol' Turbo Duo & PC Engine Duo-RX consoles that I own can be retired/put out to pasture -- or just kept as backups just in case the need arises.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~
This is quite an interesting device if it works with the US TG16. The price seems high but I suppose the payoff is even higher.
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ASDR
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by ASDR »

Neodev wrote: Which RGB mod are you using? depending on the one you have, you will have the same issue, unless the rgb mod fixes the output levels.
Custom 7316 based one, supposedly correctly attenuated. Haven't hooked it up to a scope yet, but I can't detect any signs of white crush in any test images, so all seems well. Hopefully I can sort out a capture solution for my OSSC, would love to take detailed comparison shots of the 240p testsuite with my internal mod, the SSDS3 and with a standard vs extra attenuated cable, different input gain settings on the OSSC etc.
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citrus3000psi
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by citrus3000psi »

Guess I need to get one of these. Time to sell the Super CD-ROM2
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by svensonson »

citrus3000psi wrote:Guess I need to get one of these. Time to sell the Super CD-ROM2
same what I did. I sold both my rgb modded turbo duo and pc engine right after I placed the order. Just keeping an unmodded pc engine for this beast here
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by ASDR »

In GadgetUK's video you can see that the SSDS3 needs a BIOS folder on the SD card. Makes sense. Which BIOS files do I actually need?

There are at least two different Arcade Card variants and there are at least three different System Card versions. Are the newer / more powerful cards all perfect supersets of the previous ones? Since the CD games are region free I also would only need one region? Could I just obtain an Arcade Card BIOS and that would be enough for the SSDS3 to play all JP/US CD based games? Is there something interesting one could do with the SSDS3's ability to load different BIOS ROMs, like with the Neo Geo where games have an AES/MVS mode and JP/US regions have different things censored etc.

Just looking into preparing an SD card for the device and I have no experience with the actual CD drive consoles / expansion cards :/
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Xer Xian
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Xer Xian »

Another question for Neodev (if he's still browsing here): may I ask if the SSDS3 really makes use of the H and V sync generated by the PCE? If that's the case, I guess that separate sync be accessed from the expansion port? (since an add-on board has no way to tap into the internal signals..) I'm asking because some monitor have trouble displaying the c-sync output of the PCE (and mine is among them).

Sorry for pestering with other boring remarks, and thanks if you're reading this!
Neodev
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Neodev »

ASDR wrote:In GadgetUK's video you can see that the SSDS3 needs a BIOS folder on the SD card. Makes sense. Which BIOS files do I actually need?

There are at least two different Arcade Card variants and there are at least three different System Card versions. Are the newer / more powerful cards all perfect supersets of the previous ones? Since the CD games are region free I also would only need one region? Could I just obtain an Arcade Card BIOS and that would be enough for the SSDS3 to play all JP/US CD based games? Is there something interesting one could do with the SSDS3's ability to load different BIOS ROMs, like with the Neo Geo where games have an AES/MVS mode and JP/US regions have different things censored etc.

Just looking into preparing an SD card for the device and I have no experience with the actual CD drive consoles / expansion cards :/
The most compatible bios (and the one I use almost exclusively) is the Super CDROM System bios v3.00. It supports normal games and arcade games, and all games work, except for Altered Beast, that needs the 1.00 version (otherwise the scroll doesn't work after changing to wolf), and the Games Express games that need the Games Express bios.
The bios .pce files must be stored in a folder named "BIOS" at the root of the SD, then you can choose which file to use from the options menu.
Neodev
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Neodev »

Xer Xian wrote:Another question for Neodev (if he's still browsing here): may I ask if the SSDS3 really makes use of the H and V sync generated by the PCE? If that's the case, I guess that separate sync be accessed from the expansion port? (since an add-on board has no way to tap into the internal signals..) I'm asking because some monitor have trouble displaying the c-sync output of the PCE (and mine is among them).

Sorry for pestering with other boring remarks, and thanks if you're reading this!
Yes, the H and V sync signals are taken from the expansion connector.
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Xer Xian
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Xer Xian »

Awesome! Thanks for making the PCE a viable option for me - and surely many others as well :D
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by strygo »

I'd previously avoided picking up a SuperGrafx since I didn't want the hassle of getting the separate CD system. The SSDS3 definitely changes the equation and has me tempted. :)
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gojira54
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by gojira54 »

Neodev wrote:
ASDR wrote:In GadgetUK's video you can see that the SSDS3 needs a BIOS folder on the SD card. Makes sense. Which BIOS files do I actually need?

There are at least two different Arcade Card variants and there are at least three different System Card versions. Are the newer / more powerful cards all perfect supersets of the previous ones? Since the CD games are region free I also would only need one region? Could I just obtain an Arcade Card BIOS and that would be enough for the SSDS3 to play all JP/US CD based games? Is there something interesting one could do with the SSDS3's ability to load different BIOS ROMs, like with the Neo Geo where games have an AES/MVS mode and JP/US regions have different things censored etc.

Just looking into preparing an SD card for the device and I have no experience with the actual CD drive consoles / expansion cards :/
The most compatible bios (and the one I use almost exclusively) is the Super CDROM System bios v3.00. It supports normal games and arcade games, and all games work, except for Altered Beast, that needs the 1.00 version (otherwise the scroll doesn't work after changing to wolf), and the Games Express games that need the Games Express bios.
The bios .pce files must be stored in a folder named "BIOS" at the root of the SD, then you can choose which file to use from the options menu.
Juuouki cat HA10817 is the second print of altered beast, works on all system cards not just v1.0... it's out there too ;)
Neodev
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Neodev »

gojira54 wrote:
Neodev wrote:
ASDR wrote:In GadgetUK's video you can see that the SSDS3 needs a BIOS folder on the SD card. Makes sense. Which BIOS files do I actually need?

There are at least two different Arcade Card variants and there are at least three different System Card versions. Are the newer / more powerful cards all perfect supersets of the previous ones? Since the CD games are region free I also would only need one region? Could I just obtain an Arcade Card BIOS and that would be enough for the SSDS3 to play all JP/US CD based games? Is there something interesting one could do with the SSDS3's ability to load different BIOS ROMs, like with the Neo Geo where games have an AES/MVS mode and JP/US regions have different things censored etc.

Just looking into preparing an SD card for the device and I have no experience with the actual CD drive consoles / expansion cards :/
The most compatible bios (and the one I use almost exclusively) is the Super CDROM System bios v3.00. It supports normal games and arcade games, and all games work, except for Altered Beast, that needs the 1.00 version (otherwise the scroll doesn't work after changing to wolf), and the Games Express games that need the Games Express bios.
The bios .pce files must be stored in a folder named "BIOS" at the root of the SD, then you can choose which file to use from the options menu.
Juuouki cat HA10817 is the second print of altered beast, works on all system cards not just v1.0... it's out there too ;)
Yes, it works fine, but just wanted to warn that there is some version that only works with 1.0
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ASDR
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by ASDR »

Neodev wrote: The most compatible bios (and the one I use almost exclusively) is the Super CDROM System bios v3.00. It supports normal games and arcade games, and all games work, except for Altered Beast, that needs the 1.00 version (otherwise the scroll doesn't work after changing to wolf), and the Games Express games that need the Games Express bios.
The bios .pce files must be stored in a folder named "BIOS" at the root of the SD, then you can choose which file to use from the options menu.
Thanks, that's more straightforward than I expected!
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ASDR
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by ASDR »

Bob from RetroRGB saying a few words on the cabling/brightness issue:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwbvAsF8OiE&t=183s
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by haightc »

Logging out then back out did allow me to purchase the SuSD3. I did have a concern about my purchase that that I emailed them about yesterday. Hopefully they'll look into the matter.

Bob had a lot of information wrong that he conveyed in last week's podcast. The product isn't in peoples hands yet so the rhetoric and paranoia about the cables is almost funny. I usually will buy a cheap cable and then make my own as time allows. If you are obsessed with getting video output to be all the same and standard you need to get equipment and learn electronics. As previous posts have indicated trying to make it like the genesis isn't necessarily a good thing.

Do you really want to be swapping video cables all the time? If you can't afford a second video cable should you even be buying this? Plus a 'perfect' cable does not at all guaranty perfect results!
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by orange808 »

haightc wrote:Logging out then back out did allow me to purchase the SuSD3. I did have a concern about my purchase that that I emailed them about yesterday. Hopefully they'll look into the matter.

Bob had a lot of information wrong that he conveyed in last week's podcast. The product isn't in peoples hands yet so the rhetoric and paranoia about the cables is almost funny. I usually will buy a cheap cable and then make my own as time allows. If you are obsessed with getting video output to be all the same and standard you need to get equipment and learn electronics. As previous posts have indicated trying to make it like the genesis isn't necessarily a good thing.

Do you really want to be swapping video cables all the time? If you can't afford a second video cable should you even be buying this? Plus a 'perfect' cable does not at all guaranty perfect results!
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Syntax
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Syntax »

If they got it right from the start there would be no paranoia.
The product should be shipped with the correct cable or modified to suit an existing cable AND output .7vpp not .8vpp to avoid crushing whites.

If they allow people to run their PCE at .8vpp, well, that's just unprofessional and would make me question other parts of the build like 3v 5v translators.
It's not up to the end user to sort this kind of stuff, half the guys here have a panic attack looking at a soldering iron.
There is a standard that has to be adhered to.

None of us should have to do any calculations for voltage dividers, brightness ECT. That's the devs job.
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Re: Super SD System 3

Post by Neodev »

Syntax wrote:If they got it right from the start there would be no paranoia.
The product should be shipped with the correct cable or modified to suit an existing cable AND output .7vpp not .8vpp to avoid crushing whites.

If they allow people to run their PCE at .8vpp, well, that's just unprofessional and would make me question other parts of the build like 3v 5v translators.
It's not up to the end user to sort this kind of stuff, half the guys here have a panic attack looking at a soldering iron.
There is a standard that has to be adhered to.

None of us should have to do any calculations for voltage dividers, brightness ECT. That's the devs job.
The Genesis 2 conector was used to avoid the user needing to buy custom cables for their systems, that was just for user conveinence.
We are trying our best to get this sorted out, but keep in mind that the boards are already produced, so we can only make small changes like component values, or bypassing the capacitor with a 0ohm resistor.

As we have decied to stick with the Genesis 2 cable, right now we only have 2 options,

Either bypass the caps and resistors inside the cart, so you'll get a proper image with a Genesis 2 cable, albeit a bit brighter, due to the 0.8Vpp output. That makes the last 2 color levels in the 240p test rom to have less gradation difference (although in the white bar the gradation seems right, at least on my TV set).

Another option that I was thinking, and correct me if I'm wrong as it's untested, was adding a 21ohm resistor instead of a 0ohm one in the internal resistor, that will make the output 0.7Vpp, as you have 1.6V*75ohm(tv input impedance)/(21ohm(in the cart)+75ohm(in the cable)+75ohm(in the tv input) = 1.6*75/171 = 0.701V. This will make the source impedance not to match the TV input impedance, so I don't know how good this solution is. Like this:

Image

(keep in mind that we can't add more resistors, like adding another one to gnd to make a divider)

Regarding the 3V and 5V levels, you can be sure they are properly handled. The input lines (address, read/write...) are buffered by level conversion latches so the fpga side only receives 3.3V for a 5V value. The bidirectional signals (data lines) have a bidirectional buffer with level shifting capabilities, so it's 5V on one side and 3.3V on the other, a 3.3V in the fpga side will output as 5V at the connector side and viceversa. Control lines that go directly to the MCU (hucard detection) go to 5V tolerant input pins and have open drain outputs, and output lines (CD IRQ) controlled by the FPGA go through an open drain transistor so there are never voltages over 3.3V in any fpga pins, even if they are internally pulled up by the PCE, they are "buffered" by the transistor.
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