TV RGB mod thread

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mikejmoffitt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mikejmoffitt »

suprcrackers wrote:You know what's frustrating? When you mod your second larger than 27" Trinitron, this time it was the KV-36FS13 and you are left with a great bright, sharp but flawed RGB picture. All of this is because the CSYNC fed to luma goes through some stupid post processing that delays the image a hair of a second. OH THE HUMANITY!!! THIS THING WEIGHS 200 POUNDS AND DOESN'T WORK RIGHT!!!
Instead of all-caps angry posts, use the service menu to correct the shift.

Please, everybody stop using photbucket.
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Seikenfreak
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Re: TV RGB mod thread - Toshiba 20AF41

Post by Seikenfreak »

My project Toshiba 20AF41 has been a success! Thank you to all the people who have provided information in this thread and Knuckle for answering my questions.

This was many hours (days) of work and prep :lol: Good part is time was vanishing because I was so engaged in it. I'd start and suddenly its 8 or 10 hours later. Crazy and fun. Learned so much about CRTs.

Did the initial wiring and setup over the span of two days. Then I noticed the image was rotated slightly or something, so this led to two more days of learning about the yoke and convergence rings and how to adjust them. Finally, the specific SCART socket I needed arrived from the UK after two weeks, which then took another 7 hours of final wiring, testing, plus fit and finish.

I'm not sure if the picture is better. I think it is? But that doesn't really matter to me. It was about the journey.. 8) Having the SCART socket built in is awesome. Plus, I got this specific CRT because of sentimental/nostalgic reasons and now I feel even more attached to it. Woooo! It's not perfect. There is room for improvement. I'd love to try this on another TV, but I can't really work on something bigger than 20" on my desk/bench.

Images in Spoiler Tag
Spoiler
Image

Image

Image

In this image of Super Hang-On, you can see how the image was shifted/rotated slightly before I made adjustments to the yoke. And of course, camera picture does not do the image color justice. It's almost blindingly vivid at times.

Image

Image
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nakedarthur
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by nakedarthur »

Thanks to everyone for the wealth of info here! I picked up a KV-27S42 to mod, but I have a couple questions I was hoping you guys could answer. I don't trust myself inside the set so I'm going to wire up the inputs and switch, and then have a guy I know that still works on CRTs install it for me. I was wondering though if someone could tell me specifically where the best place to wire in the following for this set so I don't waste his time (component numbers from service manual would be great!):

- Ground
- 5V power
- S-Video Luma

I'm especially wondering about the sync since I want to avoid the checkerboarding from the composite input. Are people connecting it to the actual port, or somewhere further up the line? Also, does anything else special need to be done to use Luma for sync on this set or will it automatically use it? Thanks!
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suprcrackers
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by suprcrackers »

mikejmoffitt wrote:
suprcrackers wrote:You know what's frustrating? When you mod your second larger than 27" Trinitron, this time it was the KV-36FS13 and you are left with a great bright, sharp but flawed RGB picture. All of this is because the CSYNC fed to luma goes through some stupid post processing that delays the image a hair of a second. OH THE HUMANITY!!! THIS THING WEIGHS 200 POUNDS AND DOESN'T WORK RIGHT!!!
Instead of all-caps angry posts, use the service menu to correct the shift.

Please, everybody stop using photbucket.
Mike, what I trying to convey was when you are working on a huge CRT and things don't go your way, it can be frustrating to say the least. I did fix it a few posts later. Also while I have used photobucket in the past, there was no way for me to know they would make the changes they did to their terms of service. Since they changed, I have not and will not use their service again.
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suprcrackers
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by suprcrackers »

bimm25i wrote:
suprcrackers wrote:You know what's frustrating? When you mod your second larger than 27" Trinitron, this time it was the KV-36FS13 and you are left with a great bright, sharp but flawed RGB picture. All of this is because the CSYNC fed to luma goes through some stupid post processing that delays the image a hair of a second. OH THE HUMANITY!!! THIS THING WEIGHS 200 POUNDS AND DOESN'T WORK RIGHT!!!

Hi I also have a KV-36FS13 I am looking to RGB mod,

is it possible for you to take any pictures of the mod work? Once modded does the TV work with CGA, EGA, and VGA resolutions through RGB?

I am PM'ing you my contact info, if you're available for a 10 minute call sometime I would LOVE to pick your brain.
Hey I never received your pm. Sorry it took a while to get back to you. I essentially work in a Faraday cage and don't get to look a my email till late at night. Sorry I don't have pictures of my work on the KVFS13. I gave it to a buddy of mine in KC and wont be back there for probably a year or so. There's good news and bad news. The bad news is that I don't believe it will do 31hz. It will do 15Hz all day long though. The good news that this set is very straight forward to mod, and gives great results. Hope it helps.

*edit*

I had him take a pic of the NESRGB running on it. He's not the best photographer, I think it looks better in person.

Image
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mikejmoffitt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mikejmoffitt »

suprcrackers wrote:
mikejmoffitt wrote:
suprcrackers wrote:You know what's frustrating? When you mod your second larger than 27" Trinitron, this time it was the KV-36FS13 and you are left with a great bright, sharp but flawed RGB picture. All of this is because the CSYNC fed to luma goes through some stupid post processing that delays the image a hair of a second. OH THE HUMANITY!!! THIS THING WEIGHS 200 POUNDS AND DOESN'T WORK RIGHT!!!
Instead of all-caps angry posts, use the service menu to correct the shift.

Please, everybody stop using photbucket.
Mike, what I trying to convey was when you are working on a huge CRT and things don't go your way, it can be frustrating to say the least. I did fix it a few posts later. Also while I have used photobucket in the past, there was no way for me to know they would make the changes they did to their terms of service. Since they changed, I have not and will not use their service again.
Sorry - to clarify, I wasn't addressing you about photobucket. I just scrolled up and saw half of the pages I was looking at where photbucket-ruined.

Glad you resolved the issue.
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bimm25i
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by bimm25i »

Pictures from inside the kv-36fs13

did I mark up the jungle IC correctly?

what should I do to bring sync from a JAMMA PCB to this TV?


Spoiler
Is this right?

1:Image


2:Image


3:Image


4:Image
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mikejmoffitt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mikejmoffitt »

Give Sync to the Luma input of Component or S-video.
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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

nakedarthur wrote:Thanks to everyone for the wealth of info here! I picked up a KV-27S42 to mod, but I have a couple questions I was hoping you guys could answer. I don't trust myself inside the set so I'm going to wire up the inputs and switch, and then have a guy I know that still works on CRTs install it for me. I was wondering though if someone could tell me specifically where the best place to wire in the following for this set so I don't waste his time (component numbers from service manual would be great!):

- Ground
- 5V power
- S-Video Luma

I'm especially wondering about the sync since I want to avoid the checkerboarding from the composite input. Are people connecting it to the actual port, or somewhere further up the line? Also, does anything else special need to be done to use Luma for sync on this set or will it automatically use it? Thanks!
For the 5V there will be a 5V regulator on the board. Solder to the Output pin of this, will be marked with an O.

There will be heaps of places to find ground. Consult your schematic. There will likely be unconnected headers where you can do it.

For the sync, just pump it through one of the AV Video Yellow connectors or the green Component video connector, then select the appropriate input.


I think you'll find Composite Video for sync will be fine but up to you. Luma sync is merely sync mixed with Luma. Composite Video is sync mixed with everything else. The TV won't care. Just that Luna Sync tends to be cleaner because there are less signals mixed together on the same line.
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nakedarthur
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by nakedarthur »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
nakedarthur wrote:Thanks to everyone for the wealth of info here! I picked up a KV-27S42 to mod, but I have a couple questions I was hoping you guys could answer. I don't trust myself inside the set so I'm going to wire up the inputs and switch, and then have a guy I know that still works on CRTs install it for me. I was wondering though if someone could tell me specifically where the best place to wire in the following for this set so I don't waste his time (component numbers from service manual would be great!):

- Ground
- 5V power
- S-Video Luma

I'm especially wondering about the sync since I want to avoid the checkerboarding from the composite input. Are people connecting it to the actual port, or somewhere further up the line? Also, does anything else special need to be done to use Luma for sync on this set or will it automatically use it? Thanks!
For the 5V there will be a 5V regulator on the board. Solder to the Output pin of this, will be marked with an O.

There will be heaps of places to find ground. Consult your schematic. There will likely be unconnected headers where you can do it.

For the sync, just pump it through one of the AV Video Yellow connectors or the green Component video connector, then select the appropriate input.


I think you'll find Composite Video for sync will be fine but up to you. Luma sync is merely sync mixed with Luma. Composite Video is sync mixed with everything else. The TV won't care. Just that Luna Sync tends to be cleaner because there are less signals mixed together on the same line.
Thank you, much appreciated! I will look for the 5V regulator and a ground in the service manual. OK, will try Composite video and see how it works. I don't really care about the horizontal shift since that can be corrected in the Service Menu, but if the picture is affected by checkerboarding then I'll look into the Luma.

Btw I made a little sketch for myself to learn what was going on and give the TV repair guy something to go off of. Hopefully it's all correct haha.

Image

Going to solder up the switch and inputs this weekend, and then he will be out here sometime next week to install it in the TV. I will let you know how it goes.
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korpse413
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by korpse413 »

Would love to watch one of these happen.. You guys should totally record one of these with your phones or something and post to the tubes :)
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

nakedarthur wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
nakedarthur wrote:Thanks to everyone for the wealth of info here! I picked up a KV-27S42 to mod, but I have a couple questions I was hoping you guys could answer. I don't trust myself inside the set so I'm going to wire up the inputs and switch, and then have a guy I know that still works on CRTs install it for me. I was wondering though if someone could tell me specifically where the best place to wire in the following for this set so I don't waste his time (component numbers from service manual would be great!):

- Ground
- 5V power
- S-Video Luma

I'm especially wondering about the sync since I want to avoid the checkerboarding from the composite input. Are people connecting it to the actual port, or somewhere further up the line? Also, does anything else special need to be done to use Luma for sync on this set or will it automatically use it? Thanks!
For the 5V there will be a 5V regulator on the board. Solder to the Output pin of this, will be marked with an O.

There will be heaps of places to find ground. Consult your schematic. There will likely be unconnected headers where you can do it.

For the sync, just pump it through one of the AV Video Yellow connectors or the green Component video connector, then select the appropriate input.


I think you'll find Composite Video for sync will be fine but up to you. Luma sync is merely sync mixed with Luma. Composite Video is sync mixed with everything else. The TV won't care. Just that Luna Sync tends to be cleaner because there are less signals mixed together on the same line.
Thank you, much appreciated! I will look for the 5V regulator and a ground in the service manual. OK, will try Composite video and see how it works. I don't really care about the horizontal shift since that can be corrected in the Service Menu, but if the picture is affected by checkerboarding then I'll look into the Luma.

Btw I made a little sketch for myself to learn what was going on and give the TV repair guy something to go off of. Hopefully it's all correct haha.

Image

Going to solder up the switch and inputs this weekend, and then he will be out here sometime next week to install it in the TV. I will let you know how it goes.

I noticed the Jungle I/c on your tv has multiple RGB inputs. Have you investigated connecting to the other rgb input rather than snipping the OSD?

https://m.imgur.com/a/1dDxH
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nakedarthur
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by nakedarthur »

MarkOZLAD wrote:I noticed the Jungle I/c on your tv has multiple RGB inputs. Have you investigated connecting to the other rgb input rather than snipping the OSD?

https://m.imgur.com/a/1dDxH
I swear I remember reading on this thread that someone tried those (maybe OP?) and couldn't get it displaying on screen. The thread is so long though it's hard to find stuff haha..

Btw, when I was looking for that I found that I totally misremembered the checkerboarding problem on composite. It was only when it wasn't csync that the issue was occurring. Most of my systems are csync anyway, so it shouldn't be a problem after all.
numbski
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TV RGB mod thread

Post by numbski »

korpse413 wrote:Would love to watch one of these happen.. You guys should totally record one of these with your phones or something and post to the tubes :)
I am totally planning to do this with my Sony 36" Vega (Wega?). KV-36FS12
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cyborc
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by cyborc »

I'm planning on RGB modding a Sharp 27sc260 soon. It uses the TB1253AN jungle ic which others have had success with in this thread. The datasheet calls for a maximum of 3.3 on the blanking pin. I saw that someone else said 5v works fine but I'm still paranoid. Should I use a voltage divider?


Image
Translated as: "High speed off of external analog RGB and internal RGB
It is a switch SW. Ym level (0.74 to 3.30
V typ.), The halftone internal RGB signal
Issue is output."
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buttersoft
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by buttersoft »

5V is very, very unlikely to have any negative effect. If it does, go to 3.3V.
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mikejmoffitt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mikejmoffitt »

Rather than tying 5V or anything directly to the blanking pin, I pull it up using a ~10k resistor when possible.
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syboxez
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by syboxez »

nakedarthur wrote:I'm especially wondering about the sync since I want to avoid the checkerboarding from the composite input. Are people connecting it to the actual port, or somewhere further up the line? Also, does anything else special need to be done to use Luma for sync on this set or will it automatically use it? Thanks!
I generally use an available composite input for sync and feed it CSync, even if my display has S-Video or YPbPr, mainly out of convenience. I tie it directly to the input port as opposed to looking for another spot to tie it to on the board. Never had a problem with checkerboarding. I also try to use shielded mini coax cabling internally for the mod, so that might also have something to do with it (I use Monoprice SVGA cabling personally both internally and for my video cables). Using the shielded cabling internally may be unnecessary though due to the short length of the runs required, which may not give a chance for interference to occur, but I like to use it anyway.

If you use properly shielded cables with individually shielded signals, then even CVBS sync shouldn't give you any issues with checkerboarding.

On an off topic note, does anyone know where I could source cabling with 6 or 7 mini coax conductors in it (for RGBS and audio)? I've been looking all over the place, but couldn't find any. I'm switching my whole setup to BNC due to a Crosspoint I just got, which is why I'm asking. The Monoprice SVGA cables I use only have RGB mini coax, and the rest are just regular wires shielded all together.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

nakedarthur wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:I noticed the Jungle I/c on your tv has multiple RGB inputs. Have you investigated connecting to the other rgb input rather than snipping the OSD?

https://m.imgur.com/a/1dDxH
I swear I remember reading on this thread that someone tried those (maybe OP?) and couldn't get it displaying on screen. The thread is so long though it's hard to find stuff haha..

I'd be very surprised if it doesn't work. These RGB inputs look exactly the same as the one in Australian models where Teletext inputs are fed. This way you could have the OSD working at the same time as RGB, although the OSD does tend to be washed out.

Also, you would only need to send your 5V signal to the switch, not all of them.
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nakedarthur
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by nakedarthur »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
nakedarthur wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:I noticed the Jungle I/c on your tv has multiple RGB inputs. Have you investigated connecting to the other rgb input rather than snipping the OSD?

https://m.imgur.com/a/1dDxH
I swear I remember reading on this thread that someone tried those (maybe OP?) and couldn't get it displaying on screen. The thread is so long though it's hard to find stuff haha..

I'd be very surprised if it doesn't work. These RGB inputs look exactly the same as the one in Australian models where Teletext inputs are fed. This way you could have the OSD working at the same time as RGB, although the OSD does tend to be washed out.

Also, you would only need to send your 5V signal to the switch, not all of them.
Thanks for the info all, much appreciated. Unfortunately, I'm not really in a position to experiment with it right now. I got the inputs (4x BNC) and switch wired up and the TV tech will hopefully be coming out later this week to install it. I'll let you know how it turns out!
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

nakedarthur wrote:Thanks for the info all, much appreciated. Unfortunately, I'm not really in a position to experiment with it right now. I got the inputs (4x BNC) and switch wired up and the TV tech will hopefully be coming out later this week to install it. I'll let you know how it turns out!
I understand completely. If you've got a tried and true method to follow and unable to experiment go with it.
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
snappleman
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by snappleman »

I've been reading through this topic and it's got an insane amount of info, but I'm trying to do something a little different that I'd like some help with. I have a cheapo little Durabrand DWT1905 tv that only supports composite and RF inputs. The TV is the basically the same model as the ST419E with a few different components, so I'm using the ST419E manual for reference. I have another TV that has RGB so I don't need RGB on this one, but I do need to use some S-Video sources on it,

The IC that seems to do all the video processing is referenced as M61271M8-058FP-71, which I can't find anything for online, aside from another TV that uses it which showed pins 29 and 30 as the chrominance signal input and luminance signal input respectively (which in the manual for my TV say Not Used).

The video IC supports S-Video input but there's no S-Video connector on the board. Is it possible for me to just solder directly to the Chroma and Luma pins on the IC (grounding it to the composite video ground maybe?) and feed it an S-Video signal? Would I even be able to switch to it?
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cyborc
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by cyborc »

cyborc wrote:I'm planning on RGB modding a Sharp 27sc260 soon. It uses the TB1253AN jungle ic which others have had success with in this thread. The datasheet calls for a maximum of 3.3 on the blanking pin. I saw that someone else said 5v works fine but I'm still paranoid. Should I use a voltage divider?

Spoiler
Image
Translated as: "High speed off of external analog RGB and internal RGB
It is a switch SW. Ym level (0.74 to 3.30
V typ.), The halftone internal RGB signal
Issue is output."

After reading this and looking at my tv schematic again...I think I may have misinterpreted the translation. Ym level would be the OSD and not fullscreen RGB right? So that would mean I would need to input over 3.3v to get full screen RGB, so 5v is preferred after all...I think.
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KnuckleheadFlow
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KnuckleheadFlow »

cyborc wrote: After reading this and looking at my tv schematic again...I think I may have misinterpreted the translation. Ym level would be the OSD and not fullscreen RGB right? So that would mean I would need to input over 3.3v to get full screen RGB, so 5v is preferred after all...I think.
Nah, to blank the whole screen you need DC at any voltage above what the input considers high. I'm not certain what point that input considers high but 3.3V will definitely do. As I wrote for someone else earler:

...when the blanking pin is high (5v in our case) the jungle IC cuts out whatever video is on the screen and will show the OSD RGB. What usually happens is that it'll be a pulse timed such that as the electron beam is going across the screen, when it gets to a point where the OSD is to start drawing a letter or number or whatever, YS will go high for as long as it takes the electron beam to cover that line's cross section of the character. While this is happening, the micro producing the OSD is filling in that blank with RGB.
Imagine OSD wants to write "T"

Code: Select all

    ------------------
   |_______   ________|
           | |
           | |
           | |
           | |


While the electron beam is over where the top of it is being drawn, Ys goes high longer than...

Code: Select all

     _______________   
    |               |         5V
    |               |
____|               |_______ 0V

...when the middle part is being drawn.

Code: Select all

            __
           |  |               5V
           |  |
___________|  |_______________ 0V
   
So, what happens when you feed it 5V (or 3.3) constantly? The whole screen is black and it shows whatever RGB we pipe into it.
You can see this in action by not connecting the 5V to the blanking (Ys) but hooking up your console's RGB. You'll see the game, but only where the letters/numbers/characters of the OSD would be.
[/size]

Bit of a long explanation but it might help someone else realize what's up with these pins.
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cyborc
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by cyborc »

Thanks for the explanation! I'm still learning about all this stuff so I appreciate any info I can get.
foldor
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by foldor »

Hey, I want to do an RGB mod to my Sony Trinitron KV-27FS120. I've found a guide on Imgur here: http://imgur.com/a/nrhJG , and it honestly looks more complicated than what most people here are doing. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't being overly complicated for no reason.

I also want to add in a SCART connector to the TV as well, to make hooking up my consoles easier. So I've taken the linked guides fritzing files and have attempted to modify them to add it in. I've been doing my research, and have decided to wire it in the Euro Scart format.

What would be the best method of taking the audio and sync feeds from the console and feeding it into the TV? My first thought is to take the audio in on the SCART cable and wire that up to the audio out pins, and do the same for the composite in pins. Then I can take those connections and output them to RCA jacks. Then I can connect a cable from the RCA out jacks from the SCART outputs and hook them into an input source on the back of the TV. I've been told to be careful about using composite video for my sync if I'm putting it into a video source though, because it will actually use the composite video and dispplay it on the screen underneath the RGB source, causing some ghosting. To resolve this, I've looked into adding a sync stripper to the composite output in order to only output a clean sync signal. Will this hurt consoles that are already outputting it as CSYNC?

The original diagram provided on Imgur wasn't using a SCART source for the video. This is why I believe it's using a 15V source from the TV itself instead of the voltage source from the SCART cable. Which if I'm reading the diagram correctly, the 15V source is taken down a few steps and used in a 10k trimpot to adjust the voltage to a level the TV can accept over RGB.

I've taken a look at the service manual for this TV and found the locations in the guide I found on Imgur do match up with what is being shown.

The questions I have are as follows:
  • [li]Is it necessary to take the 15V source from the TV and use the voltage chip and variable trimpot resistors?[/li]
    [li]Is there any standard on the voltage level from the SCART cables coming out of game consoles? In my research (http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... escart.htm, it shows that most consoles will provide 5V to pin 8, but the Dreamcast will provide 12V [/li]
    [li]What's the best method for outputting audio and sync?[/li]
    [li]Should I be adding in the 470 ohm resistor to the output of the clean sync as suggested on RetroRGB?[/li]
    [li]Can the voltage source from pin 8 of the SCART be used to drive the RGB values?[/li]
    [li]Does anyone else have any other suggestions I might be overlooking?[/li]
I can provide my version of the fritzing code to show my connections to the SCART, as well as the sync stripper. I'm hoping to make it into a PCB if possible, though my skills are lacking in that department, so we'll see how it goes.

The old version of my fritzing before adding the clean sync looks like this: http://imgur.com/a/05J81
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glaysonmestre
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by glaysonmestre »

:| I can do the mod in this TV???? im living in brasil help me sorry my inglish this is manual https://www.docdroid.net/LCRCvtR/lg-rp- ... 29k35a.pdf :shock:
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mikejmoffitt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mikejmoffitt »

I don't want to speak ill of that guide or its maker, but you should not be feeding RGB directly to the neck board unless you have exhausted all other options and are sure there is no point of injection prior.

In the case of the mid-nineties and 2000s-era Trinitron sets, the jungle's OSD RGB inputs should be more than adequate and not rely on such a relatively complicated circuit.

Check out the first post of this thread for references to other similar sets that have been successfully modified.

In that guide, it looks terrible too. Look at this picture: http://i.imgur.com/IXYQAOn.jpg
Image
numbski
Posts: 51
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:51 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by numbski »

mikejmoffitt wrote:I don't want to speak ill of that guide or its maker, but you should not be feeding RGB directly to the neck board unless you have exhausted all other options and are sure there is no point of injection prior.

In the case of the mid-nineties and 2000s-era Trinitron sets, the jungle's OSD RGB inputs should be more than adequate and not rely on such a relatively complicated circuit.

Check out the first post of this thread for references to other similar sets that have been successfully modified.
Beat me to it, he is almost certainly doing this the hardest way possible.

Do what we're doing: locate and identify your jungle IC. Trying to find a native RGB in, failing that, locate the OSD RGB lines. You should only have to deal with this if your jungle IC operates in the YUV color space alone, and even then viletim has a circuit to get the job done - or you can procure an arcade chassis, match the yoke resistance values to what the chassis needs, and use that.
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

mikejmoffitt wrote:I don't want to speak ill of that guide or its maker, but you should not be feeding RGB directly to the neck board unless you have exhausted all other options and are sure there is no point of injection prior.

In the case of the mid-nineties and 2000s-era Trinitron sets, the jungle's OSD RGB inputs should be more than adequate and not rely on such a relatively complicated circuit.

Check out the first post of this thread for references to other similar sets that have been successfully modified.

In that guide, it looks terrible too. Look at this picture: http://i.imgur.com/IXYQAOn.jpg
Had a quick look at the schematics. I don't think this TV can be OSD RGB modded. The chassis doesn't have a seperate micro controller and jungle chip. Just a single do everything chip.

Seems to me this one is a job for a Shinybow SB-2840.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
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