TV RGB mod thread

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GoXoD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by GoXoD »

tjsynkral wrote: Can you point me to the 27TS29 service manual? I'm not finding it on Google.

It's unlikely this is causing your picture problem but I would definitely suggest the resistor on 5v (I've fried a jungle IC and it's not fun).

Shortening the wires may improve the situation. Also try some different consoles, the issue might just affect the PS1. (If you have let me know which ones you tried.)

Sure I am using this one. https://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-27ts29 ... nload.html
and the jungle is cxa1465as http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-p ... 465AS.html in case you needed to look at that.

ya good idea, Its not like I don't have a bunch of parts.. lol

True, I have been kicking my self as all my consoles are in storage and they are really deep in there. I will try to do my best today to do some digging but I not feeling the best today.
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BobWoggle
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by BobWoggle »

So I'm 99% certain I won't do this, not because I don't trust myself (I don't, but I try not to let that stop me) but because I'm fairly certain my TV (Sanyo ds20425-00, found my service manual here) doesn't have anywhere to intercept the rgb or forcibly blank the osd, and just handles all that jazz in the LA76950 chip (which I cannot find any further info on).

You guys seem to know what you're doing, so I figured I may as well ask here before giving up entirely. Is there a way? If not, no big deal, it's got s-video and component so I'm not exactly hurting for quality, I just thought it would be something cool to do with my time and not feel like a waste of a person.

I suppose I may as well also ask if anybody could figure how to adjust horizontal size and compression just from looking at the manual, because the video is a bit wider than I'd like and sort of shrinks towards the edges. I know that's off topic and probably just an inherent problem with the geometry of the thing or whatever but like I said, you guys seem to know what's what.

I suppose that's all the questions that I have, thanks for your time either way, have a nice day.
:^)
2skoops
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by 2skoops »

I'm attempting to mod a Sony Trinitron kv-27fs100, and I can't get the image synced. The image is quickly rolling or flickering, but through the noise I can make out the RGB image. It's basically exactly like capsulej described on page 5 of this thread, and it's even the same model number. A couple of pages later he says he was able to fix his issue, but didn't mention what he did.

capsulej: if you're still around, would you care to elaborate on what the problem was?

My setup is a Raspberry Pi with Gert's 666 VGA adapter and a CSYNC circuit to combine the H and V sync. I also tried it with a PI2SCART adapter, which is similar but hashas built-in CSYNC.

RGB are terminated with 75 Ohm resistors and go through 0.1uF caps to pins 41-43 on the jungle IC. I feed 5V from a TV line directly into blanking pin 40 (I haven't tried using a pullup resistor there, but the blanking seems to be fine). I have tied the ground from the Pi into the TV ground. For the sync, I've tried feeding my CSYNC into composite, component Y, and S-VIDEO Y inputs without any luck. I've also tried feeding it directly to pin 50 (DVDY-IN) of the jungle IC, but that didn't work either. I've tried a direct connection and terminating with 75 Ohms but that doesn't help.

For the actual connections I removed the surface-mount components next to the input pins, then soldered my connections directly to the pins on the solder side of the board. I've attached wires to the other sides of the removed components as well, and if I hook them back up through the appropriate caps/resistors I can get the original OSD back without issue.

I'm prototyping this on a breadboard, but the connections seem fine. I'll also admit that the soldered wires are longer than they probably need to be (and maybe not routed optimally along the solder side of the board), but I don't really want to trim them until I do a final setup. I have tried using only a couple of inches between the Pi and the composite/component/s-video input though and that didn't help either.

Any ideas on what to try? Thanks!
tjsynkral
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by tjsynkral »

BobWoggle wrote:I suppose I may as well also ask if anybody could figure how to adjust horizontal size and compression just from looking at the manual, because the video is a bit wider than I'd like and sort of shrinks towards the edges. I know that's off topic and probably just an inherent problem with the geometry of the thing or whatever but like I said, you guys seem to know what's what.
Direct your attention to the "Service Adjustments" section of the service manual.
BobWoggle wrote:So I'm 99% certain I won't do this, not because I don't trust myself (I don't, but I try not to let that stop me) but because I'm fairly certain my TV (Sanyo ds20425-00, found my service manual here) doesn't have anywhere to intercept the rgb or forcibly blank the osd, and just handles all that jazz in the LA76950 chip (which I cannot find any further info on).
I'd have to agree, your set cannot be modified in the traditional way. I can't find any information about how the component signal enters the jungle IC, though, I figured there may be some hope of switching the component input to an RGB input but better documentation is needed.
tjsynkral
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by tjsynkral »

2skoops wrote:My setup is a Raspberry Pi with Gert's 666 VGA adapter and a CSYNC circuit to combine the H and V sync. I also tried it with a PI2SCART adapter, which is similar but hashas built-in CSYNC.

RGB are terminated with 75 Ohm resistors and go through 0.1uF caps to pins 41-43 on the jungle IC. I feed 5V from a TV line directly into blanking pin 40 (I haven't tried using a pullup resistor there, but the blanking seems to be fine). I have tied the ground from the Pi into the TV ground. For the sync, I've tried feeding my CSYNC into composite, component Y, and S-VIDEO Y inputs without any luck. I've also tried feeding it directly to pin 50 (DVDY-IN) of the jungle IC, but that didn't work either. I've tried a direct connection and terminating with 75 Ohms but that doesn't help.
It does seem like the problem is your sync input. Do you have a game console you could try? The Pi stuff may not be outputting a signal that a NTSC TV knows how to accept. Of course, make sure the TV is switched to the input you're using for sync.
2skoops
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by 2skoops »

Thanks for the response tjsynkral. Yeah, I try to match the input to the sync input I'm using, but I don't notice a difference in the screen if I switch to a different input either.

Unfortunately I don't have any other console to try. I'm outputting what should be a 240p signal from the Pi, but I guess I don't have a good way or veryifying that. I do know that other people on this thread have sourced their RGB signal from VGA though, and I know people have been successful with Pi VGA to RGB TVs, so this should be possible. But at this point I guess I don't have a good way of knowing if the problem is what the Pi is outputting, or an issue with my RGB mod.
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nem
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by nem »

nem wrote:The video input card has a TDA8366 I2C-bus controlled PAL/NTSC TV processor. It has RGB input and output pins. The output pins lead to one of the connectors which connects the input card to the motherboard. I don't know if they go anywhere from there. I would have to pull out the motherboard to find out.

Here's the pinout of the processor:

http://circuits.datasheetdir.com/377/TDA8366-pinout.jpg
Alright, my first attempt at this resulted in absolutely nothing showing up.

My first question is regarding fast blanking, which is pin 24. The data sheet has this to say:

Image

So data insertion is > 0.9V. Do I need to care about 'Maximum input pulse'?

For the record, supply voltage for this chip is 8V. What should I be feeding this pin?
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suprcrackers
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by suprcrackers »

.9v is the amount needed for it to blank the osd only. 3v or more is what is needed for the whole screen to blank. I usually just use 5v.
GoXoD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by GoXoD »

Hi all,
An update to my situation, I got my ps1 cable after alot of bs.
The cable I got was the sync on luma kind, I still have the same issues with it as the cheapo one.

I brought in my super nes and that had the same issue, I redid my wiring shorting it up nothing.
I replaced my caps thinking they might be bad, nope same issue.

Right now I am thinking of just saying screw it and using the osd rgb lines and forget about using the PIP rgb lines...

Any thoughts before I proceed down that line?

Thanks guys


Update:

So ya I feel ridiculous apparently not lifting rgb pins 16, 17, 18 and connecting straight to the chip was the issue.
I will be finishing the wiring and screwing it all back together then post some pics for all to see.
It looks really good, but I can tell I need to do some adjustments.

Thanks everyone for there help, I was just over complicating a simple thing..
frsj8112
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Location: Sweden

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by frsj8112 »

KnuckleheadFlow wrote:Wow, do I feel stupid. If your TV's jungle IC needs it, going from 0.7 Vpp to 0.5 Vpp is dead simple. Looking for video attenuation examples I realized that superguns with SCART connectors need to do this to drop the ~3 Vpp JAMMA RGB to 0.7 Vpp.
I had a look at this guy's supergun and long story short, a 30 Ω resistor in series with the RGB input before the 75 Ω terminations will make a voltage divider that'll attenuate the typical console's 0.7 Vpp to 0.5 Vpp.

My reasoning being that in the above supergun we've got:

Code: Select all

JAMMA RGB in (3 Vpp) ---[R1 180Ω]---[optional 250Ω pot]--- --- AD8073 amps then SCART RGB out (0.7Vpp)
                                                          |
                                                          |--- AD725 encoder IC
                                                          |
                                                       [R2 75Ω]
                                                          |
                                                          |
                                                         GND
For our purposes we can ignore the AD8073 amplifiers (probably) since that's accounting for the RGB being split to his encoder IC (AD725) and SCART connector. All that matters is the voltage divider. A regular resistive voltage divider is:

Code: Select all

V in ---[R1]--- --- V out
               |
              [R2]
               |
              GND

with
V out = R2/R1+R2 * V in
So with that supergun, R1 is 180 Ω (+ optional 250 Ω pot) and R2 is 75Ω to go from 2.3 Vpp (I guess that's the typical JAMMA RGB signal and the pots are there for stronger boards sending 3 V?) to 0.7 Vpp. Our R2 will also be 75 Ω and we want to go from 0.7 V in to 0.5 V out so...

Code: Select all

0.5 V = (75Ω / xΩ + 75Ω) * 0.7 V
...
x = 30Ω
Add a pot along with that 30 Ω resistor in case you get something with stronger signals and Bob's your uncle. It's really simple and I'm surprised it took me this long to figure out.
I've done this but i still have an image that seems to suffer from a to powerful signal.
If i lower the Screen pot on the flyback and put the brightness setting at 0, the image is dark. RGB is there, but it's just dark.
If i then increase the brigthness, the image gets greyish.

Look at this picture and you can see the "black" area on the right side. It should be black and not bright grey :/
Image
acpowell
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by acpowell »

Hello all. I wanted to try this for my MAME cabinet as a arcade monitor is expensive. I have a JVC AV-27020 and I tried following the guide but I hit a small snag. I realized I need to use VGA and this is mainly for SCART. Anyone know if it would work. Also I know VGA has HSYNC and VSYNC so I am confused on which of those to connect and also what pin to hook it up to. I noticed that the person that got the JVC AV-27020 working also pull power but I am not sure where that goes either.

ANy help is greatly appreciated.
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Star1
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Star1 »

Did you remember to add the clamping capacitors?
frsj8112
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by frsj8112 »

Star1 wrote:Did you remember to add the clamping capacitors?
Yes
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Star1
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Star1 »

frsj8112 wrote:
Star1 wrote:Did you remember to add the clamping capacitors?
Yes
hmm, weird. I also have a jungle ic that nees 0.5 instead of 0.7v. I used a 30 ohm before the 75 ohm termination, works like a charm.
s0m
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by s0m »

After reading through all the info in this thread, I took on a Toshiba 27A32 as a weekend project. Here is the jungle IC from the service manual for this set:

Image

Pins 20, 21, 22 for R, G, B, (isolated from existing circuit, on a switch, 75ohm terminated, 0.1uf ceramics, fed from a scart connector) and 19 for blanking (switched tie to pin 2 for 5v). I started off using the svideo luma for sync, but just got a rolling image. This TV has some input sensing to activate the svideo over composite as they share audio inputs. Plugging any svideo cable in would trigger the switch and sync the image. Neat! But, the image was dark. Between Brightness in the picture menu, and RGB Contrast in the service menu, I got it looking better, but not great.

The next day I was fiddling with it and realized that the TV tuner input also has a dark filter (to keep the snow from burning your eyes / phosphor?) when there is no solid signal. In fact, (almost) ALL the inputs were very dark until a signal is detected. The only input without this is the "Color Stream" input. Turns out that's Toshiba's fancy name for the YPbPr composite RCAs, so I moved sync to Y.

This seemed to work great! The picture was bright and colorful. So bright that when the screen flashed white, the set would power off. Before remembering that I jacked the settings up the day before (reverting these seems to have solved the power-off problem) I found a Japanese data sheet for the IC:

Image

Apparently he blanking pin doesn't expect more than 3.3v, but others in this thread have fed 5v in the same situation without issues. I had also tried adding a 10k pot to ground (the original blanking signal has a 2.2kohm) which only seemed to cause more problems, so it was removed. Anyway, I didn't really take pictures of the install, but here is the end result:

Image Image

Now I also have an ESA ET427E set, which is apparently a variation of a SYLVANIA SST4274S with this m61271m8-058fp IC

Image

I can't find this datasheet, so maybe someone can shed some light on this chip. Is seems the OSD functions are built right in, but maybe some unused pins (34, 35, 36?) are an RGB input. That would be cool.
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suprcrackers
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by suprcrackers »

Nice job. I can't find anything out on that 1chip Micon/Jungle. There's only one way to find out. Hook it up! It's probably a surface mount chip so be careful and good luck.
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suprcrackers
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by suprcrackers »

On a side note does anyone know the correct of caps and resistors for a CXA1145? The scart cable I got for my Japanese Master system to me has the image too dim. It has a 220uf cap and 75ohm resistor in series at the end of the scart head. I opened up the Master System and there was a 75ohm resistor and 100uf cap in series on the RGB outputs from the CXA1145. The datasheet says it needs one 75ohm res and 470 cap in series only.

https://console5.com/techwiki/images/f/fb/CXA1145PM.pdf

Am I correct that the capacitance in the original configuration would be (100+220)/2=160uf? And the resistance would be off also with 75+75=150. I just removed all the caps and resistors from the end of the scart head and replaced the 100uf caps on the board with 470uf ones. It seems to be looking a lot better.
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mikejmoffitt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mikejmoffitt »

I generally don't like to tie blanking directly high, but would rather simply pull it high with a resistor. If I've messed up somewhere, that prevents me from sinking 5V or 3.3V directly into the wrong pin, or some other CMOS device driving low, etc.
Image
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Star1
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Star1 »

http://imgur.com/a/jPoZK
I made a "idiots guide to rgb modding various JVC pro monitors (TM-H1950CG, TM-H150CG and so on).

Thanks to Mikejmoffit, Voultar and Knuckleheadflow for a lot of the info that gave me the idea and information!

And if I effed up anything, do let me know.
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mikejmoffitt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mikejmoffitt »

Thanks for sharing the intro. I've added it to the OP.
Image
acpowell
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by acpowell »

I followed the JVC 27020 instructions and rather to connecting it to SCART I used VGA. I also went and found a diagram that recommended I put a 1k resistor between the the Sync pin and the H/VSYNC on the VGA (http://www.arcadeinfo.de/showthread.php ... -via-SCART).

When the VGA cable is not connected to anything the screen is blue, as soon as I connect the VGA to my laptop the screen goes black and nothing I do changes it. I am using the CRT EMU driver which works on my crappy arcade monitor so I am certain that is configured properly.

Not sure what to do next.
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buttersoft
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by buttersoft »

acpowell wrote: When the VGA cable is not connected to anything the screen is blue, as soon as I connect the VGA to my laptop the screen goes black and nothing I do changes it. I am using the CRT EMU driver which works on my crappy arcade monitor so I am certain that is configured properly.
Assuming this set is one that's suitable. Check the cable and the connections. At a guess, either you're delivering sync but not 5V, or vice versa. If you think you're doing both, disconnect one, then vice versa, and see what happens. Each by itself should turn the screen black, i reckon. If the sync is failing, as in the screen stays blue, lower the value of the resistor in the horizontal sync line. You may need to try various combinations of resistors; different sets are different.

As usual when I post, VileTim will be along shortly to correct me :)



... so Tim, thanks for your advice on the Samsung set with the TDA8841 jungle chip that had the RGB-inputs shut off. Sadly the EEPROM was a Samsung-special KS24c04 with a protected one-time-only write buffer on the lower addresses. I think my $2 Aliexpress programmer ate it for breakfast - next time i'll tie the WP pin high before i start. Either way the set was no longer able to write to it once the code was corrupt, or to any other EEPROM, so i couldn't adjust anything and then re-read the chip. I had a bunch of fun though, and learned a lot. I've done some EDID programming with the gear since, and the tube is now being used with a different, RGB-hacked chassis in one of my cabs. Let me know if there's ever anything I can do for you. Or better yet, let me buy you dinner when i come up to Sydney later in the year!
acpowell
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by acpowell »

buttersoft wrote:
acpowell wrote: When the VGA cable is not connected to anything the screen is blue, as soon as I connect the VGA to my laptop the screen goes black and nothing I do changes it. I am using the CRT EMU driver which works on my crappy arcade monitor so I am certain that is configured properly.
Assuming this set is one that's suitable. Check the cable and the connections. At a guess, either you're delivering sync but not 5V, or vice versa. If you think you're doing both, disconnect one, then vice versa, and see what happens. Each by itself should turn the screen black, i reckon. If the sync is failing, as in the screen stays blue, lower the value of the resistor in the horizontal sync line. You may need to try various combinations of resistors; different sets are different.

As usual when I post, VileTim will be along shortly to correct me :)



... so Tim, thanks for your advice on the Samsung set with the TDA8841 jungle chip that had the RGB-inputs shut off. Sadly the EEPROM was a Samsung-special KS24c04 with a protected one-time-only write buffer on the lower addresses. I think my $2 Aliexpress programmer ate it for breakfast - next time i'll tie the WP pin high before i start. Either way the set was no longer able to write to it once the code was corrupt, or to any other EEPROM, so i couldn't adjust anything and then re-read the chip. I had a bunch of fun though, and learned a lot. I've done some EDID programming with the gear since, and the tube is now being used with a different, RGB-hacked chassis in one of my cabs. Let me know if there's ever anything I can do for you. Or better yet, let me buy you dinner when i come up to Sydney later in the year!
I guess I shouldn't assume the proper tv and chip but the model and chip match the instructions I was trying to follow; JVC AV 27020. I have rgb from the chip going to rgb on the vga adapter. I pulled 5v to the chip with an inline switch but not to vga (not sure where that would even go) and the one sync wire from the chip.

With ground connected the screen is black. With ground disconnected the screen is garbled but if a change the background I can see that it is changing on the tv so it is getting some sort of signal. If I pair the 2 VGA sync cables togeather it just show more mess if I put to 1k resistors on the then pair then I just a different mess (read that on another post). No matter what I do though connecting ground always blacks it out.

I know I have the right setup on my machine and the resolution isn't set too high. None of my solder joints are tounching. I am. It sure where to go from here. I can post photos of anyone would think it will help.
cruzlink2
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by cruzlink2 »

Hi guys :). I just did my 5th mod but I did have a weird issue, The picture was there but way overdriven. I could not find a service manual for this TV or even a chassis manual so I had to literally open the tv to look at the jungle chip and find the datasheet for it, jungle was a LA7612N. I went with the usual 75ohm termination on each of the color lines followed by the .1uf ceramic cap, the only other thing that I will do this week is add a 1Kohm pot on each of the color lines and find if I can bring the color lines to a suitable voltage for this jungle. Thanks for any advice ahead of time.
jay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by jay »

I attempted the RGB mod on a Toshiba 27AF61 today, end result was a black screen. It seems 5v being tied to pin 25 for fast blank is working properly, I may be wrong though. I cut the diode input side that connects to pin 25 and wired the 5v VCC from pin 51 to it. I cut the input side of the 0.1 uf caps feeding into the OSD RGB pins and injected my signal there. I also soldered to the s-video connector's luma pin for sync. Could anyone tell me what I may have done wrong? Here are some pictures of how I wired things up and the datasheet. Any input is greatly appreciated, I'm very new to this.
K405
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by K405 »

nem wrote:
nem wrote:The video input card has a TDA8366 I2C-bus controlled PAL/NTSC TV processor. It has RGB input and output pins. The output pins lead to one of the connectors which connects the input card to the motherboard. I don't know if they go anywhere from there. I would have to pull out the motherboard to find out.

Here's the pinout of the processor:

http://circuits.datasheetdir.com/377/TDA8366-pinout.jpg
Alright, my first attempt at this resulted in absolutely nothing showing up.

My first question is regarding fast blanking, which is pin 24. The data sheet has this to say:

Image

So data insertion is > 0.9V. Do I need to care about 'Maximum input pulse'?

For the record, supply voltage for this chip is 8V. What should I be feeding this pin?

Hi nem, following with interest, have the exact same JVC TM-1700PN (https://cvp.com/pdf/jvc_tm1700pn.pdf)

Image
Image
Image

Schematics I found online: https://www.elektrotanya.com/jvc_tm-170 ... nload.html

Haven't tried anything yet, will post my disasters, and hopefully victory here. :mrgreen:
jay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by jay »

jay wrote:I attempted the RGB mod on a Toshiba 27AF61 today, end result was a black screen. It seems 5v being tied to pin 25 for fast blank is working properly, I may be wrong though. I cut the diode input side that connects to pin 25 and wired the 5v VCC from pin 51 to it. I cut the input side of the 0.1 uf caps feeding into the OSD RGB pins and injected my signal there. I also soldered to the s-video connector's luma pin for sync. Could anyone tell me what I may have done wrong? Here are some pictures of how I wired things up and the datasheet. Any input is greatly appreciated, I'm very new to this.
Update: I believe I terminated the 75 ohm resistors incorrectly, I removed them and I get a clean picture on the words of the OSD. I also found that the tv was not blanking because I ran 5v through the diode rather than directly, and the input voltage needed to be below 2v. After figuring that out, I now have the screen fully blanking, but now it is just a black screen. Could this possibly be because the OSD RGB in on the TA1310 Jungle IC requires 1.25 VPP?
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Star1
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Star1 »

jay wrote:I attempted the RGB mod on a Toshiba 27AF61 today, end result was a black screen. It seems 5v being tied to pin 25 for fast blank is working properly, I may be wrong though. I cut the diode input side that connects to pin 25 and wired the 5v VCC from pin 51 to it. I cut the input side of the 0.1 uf caps feeding into the OSD RGB pins and injected my signal there. I also soldered to the s-video connector's luma pin for sync. Could anyone tell me what I may have done wrong? Here are some pictures of how I wired things up and the datasheet. Any input is greatly appreciated, I'm very new to this.
Looks like you terminated the rgb lines incorrectly on your scart plug.

http://imgur.com/a/8PmVY
Your circuit mathces the one on the right, you want it to be like the one on the left.

Edit: just now saw your follow up post :P
Why not connect to the unused rgb inputs (3-5), and pins 6 and 10 for activating rgb ? Unless you know those inputs to be disabled of course.
If you do try that, remember that the analogue rgb inputs expect 0.5V p-p, so you need a voltage divider to get correct levels. http://i.imgur.com/Ysx1o0k.jpg This would work in that regard.
jay
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by jay »

Star1 wrote:
jay wrote:I attempted the RGB mod on a Toshiba 27AF61 today, end result was a black screen. It seems 5v being tied to pin 25 for fast blank is working properly, I may be wrong though. I cut the diode input side that connects to pin 25 and wired the 5v VCC from pin 51 to it. I cut the input side of the 0.1 uf caps feeding into the OSD RGB pins and injected my signal there. I also soldered to the s-video connector's luma pin for sync. Could anyone tell me what I may have done wrong? Here are some pictures of how I wired things up and the datasheet. Any input is greatly appreciated, I'm very new to this.
Looks like you terminated the rgb lines incorrectly on your scart plug.

http://imgur.com/a/8PmVY
Your circuit mathces the one on the right, you want it to be like the one on the left.

Edit: just now saw your follow up post :P
Why not connect to the unused rgb inputs (3-5), and pins 6 and 10 for activating rgb ? Unless you know those inputs to be disabled of course.
If you do try that, remember that the analogue rgb inputs expect 0.5V p-p, so you need a voltage divider to get correct levels. http://i.imgur.com/Ysx1o0k.jpg This would work in that regard.
I'm not sure if they are disabled or not, but I'll try it tonight and report back. Should I pull pins 6 and 10 out of circuit?
jay
Posts: 30
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:54 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by jay »

Star1 wrote:
jay wrote:I attempted the RGB mod on a Toshiba 27AF61 today, end result was a black screen. It seems 5v being tied to pin 25 for fast blank is working properly, I may be wrong though. I cut the diode input side that connects to pin 25 and wired the 5v VCC from pin 51 to it. I cut the input side of the 0.1 uf caps feeding into the OSD RGB pins and injected my signal there. I also soldered to the s-video connector's luma pin for sync. Could anyone tell me what I may have done wrong? Here are some pictures of how I wired things up and the datasheet. Any input is greatly appreciated, I'm very new to this.
Looks like you terminated the rgb lines incorrectly on your scart plug.

http://imgur.com/a/8PmVY
Your circuit mathces the one on the right, you want it to be like the one on the left.

Edit: just now saw your follow up post :P
Why not connect to the unused rgb inputs (3-5), and pins 6 and 10 for activating rgb ? Unless you know those inputs to be disabled of course.
If you do try that, remember that the analogue rgb inputs expect 0.5V p-p, so you need a voltage divider to get correct levels. http://i.imgur.com/Ysx1o0k.jpg This would work in that regard.
I tried this tonight, as well as any other combination of things. I still get no image from it when blanking. I saw that supcrackers attempted an rgb mod on a Toshiba model with the same IC, hopefully he can chime in as to whether he was successful.
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