Interesting observation of Capcom's 1986 Sidearms Jamma PCB

[PC Engine Fan X!]

If you have played the classic Capcom/Romstar's USA Bios version of "Hyper Dyne Sidearms" arcade Jamma PCB, by simply picking up the icon for "Full Auto-Fire" powerup with the circle motif, one gets to shoot really fast in either "left or right" direction (but never up or down).

Now if you used a hacked auto-fire setup on the Sidearms Jamma PCB, it'll work for all the weapons with the exception of the both auto-fire power-up icons. Believe it or not, the built-in software auto-fire rate is faster than if one were to use a hacked auto-fire on a Sidearms PCB (unless you have access to a variable auto-fire knob to increase or decrease the auto-firing rate).

I used to be able to get to the last end-stage "worm" boss on my 1st life when playing Sidearms arcade upright in 1988-1990. It would take another credit to finally beat the bitchy "worm" boss once & for all...so really, it was a 2CC for my Sidearms arcade gaming session back in the day (still impressive for that time period). My Sidearms PCB scores would range in the 1,415,000+ pts during that time period of 1988-1990.

Tis a shame that the PCE/TG-16 Hu-Card version of Sidearms doesn't have two-player co-op feature like that of the original Jamma PCB version did + two different combination-formed mecha suits are possible when playing with either Player 1 or Player 2 mecha suit character. ^_~

There are some very slight differences between the original Japanese Bios & USA Bios version of the Sidearms Jamma PCB: an extra semi-animated title + more credits given per coin inserted in the Japanese Bios version of Sidearms PCB which I do own. I've always wondered just how the original Japanese Bios version of sidearm Jamma PCB played and finally now know how it plays. ^_~

The very first time I saw the USA Capcom/Romstar arcade upright of "Hyper Dyne Sidearms" was at Great America amusement park in Santa Clara in April of 1987.

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Origins of Sidearms arcade PCB P1 & P2 mecha suit characters:

It's interesting to know that the Player 1 mecha suit is based on the mecha pilot suits shown in Super Dimensional Calvary Southern Cross anime series. The Player 2 mecha suit is based on the original Nove Powered Armor Suits shown in the Machine Soldier Dorvack anime series.

Gunze Sangyo did indeed produce some cool scaled plastic model kits based on the Dorvack anime series (and was even distributed for sale in the USA by Testors themselves in 1985-1986). What was really cool about some of the Dorvack Powered Armor Suit kits is that some kits included fully self-reloading & working spring-powered 105mm guns and even had built-in support for the "mini-wheat" sized mininature light sets to "light up" some futuristic gun weaponry on select Powered Armor Suit kits -- was considered advanced features for early 1984 anime mecha model kits at that period in time. The Tinkle Bell PAM-74, Tinkle Sam & Berlon Powered Armor Suit model kits from Gunze Sangyo show some major kick ass weaponry. ^_~

The "Machine Soldier Dorvack" anime series is the last major Japanese early 1980's anime series that hasn't been released on VHS or DVD format for USA anime market...you'd think that such a U.S. anime licensee would've gotten the exclusive rights to do an all-English language version dubbed of Dorvack anime series by now...it's now early 2006 and the Dorvack anime premired on Japanese TV in late 1983 into 1984 only to be cancelled after 35 episodes were created/aired.
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PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[PC Engine Fan X!]

The above subject heading reveals some more new Sidearms player character anime origins in my original post regarding the observation of "Hyper Dyne Sidearms" Jamma PCB.

You'll be surprised to learn as to what two influential Japanese anime series that inspired Capcom to create the classic arcade shmup that is known the world over as "Hyper Dyne Sidearms".

Please reread my first post above this post and enjoy. ^_~

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[TerryPachi]

Why does it sound like you've swallowed a dictionary?

[system11]

Why does it sound like you've swallowed a dictionary?

Because you paid less attention in school than he did?

Another interesting Side Arms PCB factoid - the bootleg has faulty sound - some channels don't play. The reason for this is an extra resistor in the sound section. The bootleggers copied the schematics to the letter, and the actual production PCBs had that resistor removed, putting it there results in some of the output being cut so low you can't even hear it.

I found out a few years ago diagnosing one with an oscilloscope and comparing to a real board, never told anyone until now (aside from my old repair log that nobody read).

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Why does it sound like you've swallowed a dictionary?

You might say that I've rather swallowed a general trivia knowledge book instead. ^_~

I was aiming for some new revelant info regarding the Sidearms arcade Jamma PCB...just my observations & general useless trivial knowledge of anime, arcade Jamma PCBs & shmups.

Shmups...How BAD have you got it?

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[PC Engine Fan X!]

Bloodflowers,

That is new revelant info regarding the "bootlegged" version of Sidearms PCB. Thank you.

PC Engine Fan X! ^_~

[dpful]

Why does it sound like you've swallowed a dictionary?

Because you paid less attention in school than he did?

Another interesting Side Arms PCB factoid - the bootleg has faulty sound - some channels don't play. The reason for this is an extra resistor in the sound section. The bootleggers copied the schematics to the letter, and the actual production PCBs had that resistor removed, putting it there results in some of the output being cut so low you can't even hear it.

I found out a few years ago diagnosing one with an oscilloscope and comparing to a real board, never told anyone until now (aside from my old repair log that nobody read).

Is there a way to remove that resistor? I've got a sidearms bootleg I think

[system11]

Another interesting Side Arms PCB factoid - the bootleg has faulty sound - some channels don't play. The reason for this is an extra resistor in the sound section. The bootleggers copied the schematics to the letter, and the actual production PCBs had that resistor removed, putting it there results in some of the output being cut so low you can't even hear it.

Is there a way to remove that resistor? I've got a sidearms bootleg I think

http://www.system11.org/temp/repairs.html

See appropriate entry, wish I could find the up to date repair list, I think it got trashed when my HD crashed some time ago. Some of my backup DVDs had failed to burn properly too. Sigh.

It should be obvious from a visual check whether or not yours is the same type of bootleg - I've seen three of them so far that matched, but that doesn't mean to say they all do. It had an extra third layer which is a good guide. The op-amp is somewhere between the Yamaha (from memory) sound chip and the actual amplifier. It's a standard 16 pin (8 per side) chip, mine was Hitachi I think.

[Ed Oscuro]

Great topic, thanks for the info! :)