XBOX & PSX to Jamma
XBOX & PSX to Jamma
I found two awesome and related things in one day!
One is shmups.com!
The other is this: http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/jammatimekits.htm
I spoke with them, and by PSX they mean either PS1 or 2.
And shipping to the US is 10 gbp.
I am thinking Gradius V on my cab. My cab isn't jamma, but a fingerboard slot is easy to come by.
One is shmups.com!
The other is this: http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/jammatimekits.htm
I spoke with them, and by PSX they mean either PS1 or 2.
And shipping to the US is 10 gbp.
I am thinking Gradius V on my cab. My cab isn't jamma, but a fingerboard slot is easy to come by.
Have you seen http://www.mameworld.net/pc2jamma/pc2jamma.html? You can do it fairly easily on your own, if you're so inclined.
-ReK
-ReK
MGCD does pretty much the same things, and is cheaper if you buy from comsicco.
http://www.frolicker.com.tw/mgcd/mgcd.htm
http://www.frolicker.com.tw/mgcd/mgcd.htm
Why isn't anyone discussing the monitor that this will be fed to? It can't just work on any arcade monitor (can it?). Or is it just assumed that one has a multi-frequency monitor (or hi-res)?SAM wrote:You just need to hack a PS RGB cable to connect the console to JAMMA.
I just have a standard 15kHz. I think I need something to make that conversion.
Will the MGCD do that? Because the Time Master will (I just don't know how well it will look).
According to this:
http://atarilabs.com/meat/2000/1201_rgbprimer.shtml
consoles output 15kHz through the rgb.
http://atarilabs.com/meat/2000/1201_rgbprimer.shtml
consoles output 15kHz through the rgb.
andCurrent VGA monitors have a minimum horizontal scan rate of about 30kHz, where all game consoles output 15kHz.
Once you've chosen your monitor (to reiterate, make sure it's not digital, it's colour, and make extra sure it will support the 15kHz horizontal signal!) and your console (as long as it's not a NES, you should be ok) the joy of hooking it together begins.
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There should be no incompatibilities.. Your talking about a device which is specifically built for the job.. Besides, the only difference between RGB from a console and a PCB is the sync, where the console uses composite sync and the PCB doesn't (uses normal Sync).
so the only thing you need to do is strip the sync from the console so your monitor can understand it. I believe a sony chip does this, LM* something or other and requires soldering.
Any of the aforementioned devices do this already.
so the only thing you need to do is strip the sync from the console so your monitor can understand it. I believe a sony chip does this, LM* something or other and requires soldering.
Any of the aforementioned devices do this already.
This industry has become 2 dimensional as it transcended into a 3D world.
that must depend on the monitor.neorichieb1971 wrote:There should be no incompatibilities.
people with 25 or 31kHz monitors cannot do this
that is the information missing from the saturn2JAMMA page at mameworld
I will be picking up a few of those.neorichieb1971 wrote: so the only thing you need to do is strip the sync from the console so your monitor can understand it. I believe a sony chip does this, LM* something or other and requires soldering.
Any of the aforementioned devices do this already.
I think you mean composite video, in which case it might require a sync stripper circuit, depending on the monitor. JAMMA PCBs and quite a few consoles output composite sync already.neorichieb1971 wrote:Besides, the only difference between RGB from a console and a PCB is the sync, where the console uses composite sync and the PCB doesn't (uses normal Sync).
The above is correct - arcade monitors generally need composite SYNC, and many consoles will spit out composite VIDEO (ie: video + sync - the same signal that typically goes out over your standard yellow A/V plugs). This is especially true if you just use an RGB/SCART cable, as the TV is responsible for stripping the sync for itself.
My Kortek monitor is cool in that it has a switch on the monitor chassis that allows me to select either composite video or composite sync, and likewise positive or negative sync. I actually went ahead and made a sync-stripper circuit, only to find it was unecessary. Most arcade monitors will not have this feature however, but the circuit is very easy to build. It cost me less than $5 in parts, and about 15 minutes of my time.
As mentioned, most consoles spit out 15KHz RGB. This is the horizontal frequency of most TVs and "low res" (sometimes called "standard res") monitors
There are very few consoles that don't output RGB, and for those that don't there are sometimes ways of hijacking RGB signals from the console motherboards. This usually requires a bit more effort than just a cable hack of course. Gamesx.com will have all the info on how to do that per console.
[edit: spelling (typing with kids on your chest is hard)]
My Kortek monitor is cool in that it has a switch on the monitor chassis that allows me to select either composite video or composite sync, and likewise positive or negative sync. I actually went ahead and made a sync-stripper circuit, only to find it was unecessary. Most arcade monitors will not have this feature however, but the circuit is very easy to build. It cost me less than $5 in parts, and about 15 minutes of my time.
As mentioned, most consoles spit out 15KHz RGB. This is the horizontal frequency of most TVs and "low res" (sometimes called "standard res") monitors
There are very few consoles that don't output RGB, and for those that don't there are sometimes ways of hijacking RGB signals from the console motherboards. This usually requires a bit more effort than just a cable hack of course. Gamesx.com will have all the info on how to do that per console.
[edit: spelling (typing with kids on your chest is hard)]
Last edited by elvis on Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.