Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Fudoh]

Audio is more of a problem with those dopey phoenix terminals

easy to use (no soldering), flexible and easily available. Don't be afraid of these!

[Guspaz]

If gscartsw availability is an issue, there is also the Hydra, which is similar and available for pre-order. I'd wait for reviews first, though. I know Coury from My Life in Gaming has one, and will include it in his upscoming SCART roundup.

[atheistgod1999]

How are the PSOne LCDs? How much lag do they have? How good do they look?

[bobrocks95]

How are the PSOne LCDs? How much lag do they have? How good do they look?

It's a TN panel with a CFL backlight, so I can't imagine it looks great.

[Chomolonzo]

Audio is more of a problem with those dopey phoenix terminals

easy to use (no soldering), flexible and easily available. Don't be afraid of these!

Any idea where I can get the right connectors from? I assume female rca to male Phoenix/euroblock. I've had a cursory look around but they seem hard to find.

[bobrocks95]

Any idea where I can get the right connectors from? I assume female rca to male Phoenix/euroblock. I've had a cursory look around but they seem hard to find.

retro_console_accessories offers them on ebay, check at the start of the week if her store is closed.

If you have a pheonix block terminal like my Extron switch came with, you can cut any RCA cable and just make one yourself, that's what I did.

[vol.2]

So, you should be able to get an extron with the Phoenix socket populated with a binding post. Many of them are. You just stick a wire in and tighten it down.

Edit: bobrocks keeps beating me to the punch. Ha.

[vol.2]

Is there an extron RGB interface that will do the 240p trick and let me control H/V?

201 and 203. 202 as well, but that's an old one with DIN9 inputs for RGB instead of HD15.

Thanks Fudoh! I snagged one cheap. I needed the HV control for my PVM 2030. It seems that the HV center is very different for composite than it is for the RGB input. My plan is to set it up now for composite and then use the extron to dial in the RGB.
Do you have any advice on this situation? I worry that I am taking the wrong approach.

[Fudoh]

Do you have any advice on this situation? I worry that I am taking the wrong approach.

On most interfaces enabling the 240p trick disables the H/V controls. If that's the case you have to invert the sync polarity using the internal dip switches.

[Fudoh]

Any idea where I can get the right connectors from? I assume female rca to male Phoenix/euroblock. I've had a cursory look around but they seem hard to find.

Mouser (expensive at $5 per connector, original Phoenix) or Element14 ($1 per connector, 3rd party I guess). Search for 1840395.

http://www.newark.com/multicomp/mctc-42 ... %3A1840395

And just get cheap RCA extension cables from ebay. Cut them into half and screw them into the terminals. Mind that balanced and unbalanced audio use different pinouts on the Phoenix plugs. You can get the guide from Extron.

[vol.2]

Do you have any advice on this situation? I worry that I am taking the wrong approach.

On most interfaces enabling the 240p trick disables the H/V controls. If that's the case you have to invert the sync polarity using the internal dip switches.

thanks for the info. So, is there any drawback to jumping the 203 to invert the sync polarity? Do I have to change the jumpers back and forth depending on whether or not I am using the 240p trick?

edit: i got an extron 203 FYI

[Fudoh]

Do I have to change the jumpers back and forth depending on whether or not I am using the 240p trick?

if you want ADSP (including H/V shift controls) on both 480i passthrough AND converted 240p, then yes.

[Arasoi]

.

[vol.2]

Do I have to change the jumpers back and forth depending on whether or not I am using the 240p trick?

if you want ADSP (including H/V shift controls) on both 480i passthrough AND converted 240p, then yes.

Okay. So it sounds like I can enable the "240p trick" by either switching off ADSP or switching the polarity on the sync, but not both? My apologies, I'm starting to get confused. Maybe someone could point me to some good passage on the trick because doing a search results in fragmented information, nothing I would call a thread on it.

Also, I'm assuming that I don't need a sync stripper for the extron 203 because it processes sync. The manual says the inputs accept VGA-QXGA RGBHV, RGBS, RGsB, RsGsBs.

[Fudoh]

You switch between 480i and 240p by toggling the DDSP switch. The same switch disables the sync processing. Wether the on of off position of that switch will get you 480i or 240p depends on the sync polarity.

All Extron interfaces require clean sync. Composite or Luma for sync won't work.

[atheistgod1999]

Is there any way to change the audio sample rate without making it upsample other programs' lower sample rates? When I set it to 88.2KHz, music gets a weird Megadriveish thing to it. I even made sure "Allow applications to take exclusive control of this device" and "Give exclusive mode applications priority" were checked.

Also, my sound card occasionally gets interference from my graphics card (GTX 950) directly above it. Any way to fix it, besides moving it to another port (which I don't think I can do)?

It's a Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX PCIe 5.1.

[Einzelherz]

Dummy dumb guy question time!

I just picked up a SNES mini. My current scart cable is sync on composite video. I thought it would work because the mini only had the c-sync and s-video lines clipped, but it doesn't.

So what do I need to do to it?

[bobrocks95]

Dummy dumb guy question time!

I just picked up a SNES mini. My current scart cable is sync on composite video. I thought it would work because the mini only had the c-sync and s-video lines clipped, but it doesn't.

So what do I need to do to it?

Um, the SNES Mini has no RGB wired to the Multi-out. You need to reconnect the RGB lines and amplify them.

[Ikaruga11]

Aside from the obvious and branded DOL-001 and DOL-101 revisions, are there any subtle or unbranded revisions at all during the GameCube's life? Like two different DOL-001s for example?

[Extrems]

Aside from the obvious and branded DOL-001 and DOL-101 revisions, are there any subtle or unbranded revisions at all during the GameCube's life? Like two different DOL-001s for example?

http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.ph ... e_versions

[Ikaruga11]

Aside from the obvious and branded DOL-001 and DOL-101 revisions, are there any subtle or unbranded revisions at all during the GameCube's life? Like two different DOL-001s for example?

http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.ph ... e_versions

Thanks. Is there any difference in performance or image quality between all the DOL-001 revisions?

[Plasia]

I just got an xrgb2+, I love my OSSC but sometimes I want to play on my CRT Monitor. It's driving me nuts that I can't get the remote battery latch open. How do you open it? I just want to change the battery to use the remote

[tacoguy64]

Is something like this http://retrogamerandbackups.com/t/sega- ... ccessories, in combination with a patched back-up game, the best solution to play "translated" Japanese sega saturn games on a Sega Saturn system?

I just got some games I want to play but can't since I don't understand Japanese.

[Shoryukev]

Has anyone ever used one of these devices for playing their PCBs? Anything I should look out for, or maybe a suggestion of a different unit if this one sucks? Advice for someone looking to dive into the rabbit hole of superguns?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152257119363?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

I stumbled across this yesterday in my searches. I'm thinking about buying one, but I'm curious about the video quality since it's knocking the levels down for consumer TVs via SCART. I'll be using this on my PVM with a BNC breakout cable (in the future the sony consumer CRT in my cabinet once I get around to RGB modding it).

I really want to get a couple boards to put inside my MAME cabinet, emulation is mostly fine....but I get nitpicky when I play my favorite games. There's always screen tearing, a little lag, and the video output from my PC is far from pixel perfect. I really want a SF2T and a Neo Geo 1-4 slot in there. I figure that will give me a few of my favorites, and then I can start thinking about what other JAMMA stuff I want to add. If I get several CPS1 boards I can build a mounting system inside the cabinet for all the PCBs to make switching back and forth easy.

[RdCrestdBreegull]

http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.ph ... e_versions

What does 'SP2' stand for in that chart? Couldn't find any info online about it.

[ZellSF]

http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.ph ... e_versions

What does 'SP2' stand for in that chart? Couldn't find any info online about it.

http://www.angelfire.com/ultra/megamanw ... rison.html

[Ikaruga11]

http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.ph ... e_versions

What does 'SP2' stand for in that chart? Couldn't find any info online about it.

Serial Port 2. It's an unused port that Nintendo removed from last revision of the American DOL-001 and all revisions of the DOL-101. It has no use currently, I hear the Homebrew community is trying to find a use for it.

[vol.2]

You switch between 480i and 240p by toggling the DDSP switch. The same switch disables the sync processing. Wether the on of off position of that switch will get you 480i or 240p depends on the sync polarity.

All Extron interfaces require clean sync. Composite or Luma for sync won't work.

okay. thank you. i think i'm clear on that.

would you happen to know if i am going to run into a sync issue with viletim's NESRGB mod? referring to his block diagram, it appears that it outputs composite sync info. if this is already a "clean" sync, then is it going to disrupt the signal to put it through the sync strike? This is mostly a cabling consideration for me, because if I have to go from the NESRGB directly to the Extron 203, then I need to build a N64multi-out to D-sub 15 connector just for the NES instead of a N64multi-out to SCART (which I would need for the sync strike)

[bobrocks95]

Quick soldering noob questions:

I want to install a Mega Amp board in my Model 2 Genesis, so it's dealing with through-hole components mostly. What size wire and solder would be ideal?

The guy who made the board recommended 26-28 AWG wire, so I was going to grab a spool of 26 AWG (and a smaller pair of wire strippers). I have 20 or 22 AWG lying around, should I go ahead and go for the recommended smaller size? I'm guessing it would be easier to work with.

I also have 0.032" (0.812mm) solder- do I need to go smaller on it too? I saw lots of people recommending 0.032" for PCB work, and I see that solder sizes don't go nearly as small as wire sizes do, so I feel like it's fine?

[atheistgod1999]

How can I fill in a scratch on my BVM-20F1U's screen protector?