Questions that do not deserve a thread

[buttersoft]

Anybody know where I can buy the connector ends for SNES/N64/GameCube multi out AV? Ideally something with solderable terminals or snap in crimp pins.
I want to roll my own cables with some sweet shielded goodness.

HD Retrovision is selling a pack of 3 for 10 bucks.
https://shop.hdretrovision.com/collections/all

That's huge, there are more than a few of us looking for these!

[vol.2]

Anybody know where I can buy the connector ends for SNES/N64/GameCube multi out AV? Ideally something with solderable terminals or snap in crimp pins.
I want to roll my own cables with some sweet shielded goodness.

HD Retrovision is selling a pack of 3 for 10 bucks.
https://shop.hdretrovision.com/collections/all

Sweet. Thanks!

[KaizaCorp]

I have a Hori Real Arcade Pro 3 that I'd like to put an LS-32-01 into. Which mounting plate do I need? Also, how do I go about handling the Seimitsu pin-out?

[RdCrestdBreegull]

Hopefully this is an easy answer...

I have my SNES (SNS-001 w/ RetroFix's RGB amp/fix) hooked up to my PVM-14M4U (multi-out to RGBs BNC) and the picture is shifted to the left with a blank/black column on the right side of the screen. I was looking for an H Hold or H Phase setting but couldn't find one... What can I do to shift the picture over to the center of the display? PS--I don't have this issue when using the S-video input. Thanks

Spoiler

[orange808]

Hopefully this is an easy answer...

I have my SNES (SNS-001 w/ RetroFix's RGB amp/fix) hooked up to my PVM-14M4U (multi-out to RGBs BNC) and the picture is shifted to the left with a blank/black column on the right side of the screen. I was looking for an H Hold or H Phase setting but couldn't find one... What can I do to shift the picture over to the center of the display? PS--I don't have this issue when using the S-video input. Thanks

Spoiler

Get an Extron RGB series. It will let you manipulate sync and center your image.

Not expensive, but very handy.

http://retrorgb.com/extronrxi.html

[RdCrestdBreegull]

Hopefully this is an easy answer...

I have my SNES (SNS-001 w/ RetroFix's RGB amp/fix) hooked up to my PVM-14M4U (multi-out to RGBs BNC) and the picture is shifted to the left with a blank/black column on the right side of the screen. I was looking for an H Hold or H Phase setting but couldn't find one... What can I do to shift the picture over to the center of the display? PS--I don't have this issue when using the S-video input. Thanks

Spoiler

Alright so I figured out how to get into the service menu (enter the Menu and then press Degauss and Enter at the same time). I changed the Nor Def H Frequency.

However... As of right now (until I get a scart switch) my N64 is plugged into S-video and my SNES is plugged into RGBS. A good H Frequency setting for my SNES is 255 (the maximum) but when I switch over to the N64 on S-video, the picture is shifted to the right (opposite of how it was shifted to the left with the SNES) and the best H Frequency setting for it would be 139. So do I really have to keep entering the service menu every time I want to switch between SNES (RGBS) and N64 (S-video) just to adjust the Nor Def H Frequency? Is there a better way to do this?

[orange808]

Hopefully this is an easy answer...

I have my SNES (SNS-001 w/ RetroFix's RGB amp/fix) hooked up to my PVM-14M4U (multi-out to RGBs BNC) and the picture is shifted to the left with a blank/black column on the right side of the screen. I was looking for an H Hold or H Phase setting but couldn't find one... What can I do to shift the picture over to the center of the display? PS--I don't have this issue when using the S-video input. Thanks

Spoiler

Alright so I figured out how to get into the service menu (enter the Menu and then press Degauss and Enter at the same time). I changed the Nor Def H Frequency.

However... As of right now (until I get a scart switch) my N64 is plugged into S-video and my SNES is plugged into RGBS. A good H Frequency setting for my SNES is 255 (the maximum) but when I switch over to the N64 on S-video, the picture is shifted to the right (opposite of how it was shifted to the left with the SNES) and the best H Frequency setting for it would be 139. So do I really have to keep entering the service menu every time I want to switch between SNES (RGBS) and N64 (S-video) just to adjust the Nor Def H Frequency? Is there a better way to do this?

*sigh*

Yes..

If only there was a better way..

As easy as turning a knob...

If only..

[ahaddow]

Does anyone have up to date experience with WookieWin on ebay? I need a Female JP21 -> BNC + Audio breakout and this is the only option I can find.
I was ready to order it and found this old thread where a buyer had issues with grounding over the audio cables.
I am will be using it on a PVM-1454Q using the internal speaker for now until I get a small amp for it in the future, thus one of the audio jacks would be left unplugged. It sounds like this might be an issue?

Otherwise, can anyone else source the cable I'm describing? I live in Japan and can't seem to find anything locally.
Thanks!

[Guspaz]

I bought a semi-custom cable from him recently (I wanted the composite video direction swapped, and I didn't want any audio cables).

I just opened it up. All non-ground pins are heatshrunk, including unused pins. For each signal pin (red/green/blue/composite video input), their respective ground pins are connected to their individual wire's shields, and the SCART shield is connected to the overall cable shield. Pins 17 (cvid out ground) and 18 (cvid in ground) are the only two ground pins that are ganged together, although obviously only one of the two cvid signal pins is connected.

The grounds are not all ganged, but every signal pin is connected to the appropriate ground, so...

[Gunstar]

Can you swap the internals of a ps2 slim (7700x) with the shell of another model (7000x)?

[Chomolonzo]

I've just purchased a Sony BVM-A20F1M monitor, complete with all the required expansion cards and control module. I'm slowly muddying my way through the settings and everything. I haven't used a CRT in years, and I was just wondering if anyone has any experience with a kind of... vibrating, or juddering of the image. It's almost imperceptible, but if I look at, say, the white menu text, each line (between the scanlines) is kind of vibrating to a tiny degree - like some kind of frequency is off. Is this normal? I've never seen it in any video I've seen of these things, and it's kind of annoying. Is there a setting that adjusts something to do with this? Any help would be much appreciated!

[kamiboy]

The "shaking" is called interlacing and is normal when watching 480i footage, as in games from the PS2 era and later. Not so for 8/16/32bit games which are usually 240p.

[Chomolonzo]

Even the BVM's system menu text?

[Fudoh]

yes, it's displayed interlaced as well (unless it's displayed above an active 240p signal).

[Chomolonzo]

Ok cool. Thanks for the help! I'll try some progressive signals tomorrow. Good ol' PAL GameCube and its lack of progressive scan.

[FinalBaton]

20% off site-wide over at monoprice.com and primecables.com.

Time for my North American fam to load up on cables!

[Chomolonzo]

I'm in the process of checking out the test patterns for tweaking geometry and convergence and whatnot, and have noticed a distinct yellow tint in the top-right of the screen, and blue in the bottom left. I either didn't notice them last night, or they weren't there. In adjusting the landing setting, the blue seems to have vanished, and the yellow has become significantly less-noticeable, though still sliiiightly present. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Guess I've thrown myself into the deep end with such a complicated monitor! Get the test channels looking good, then switch to, say, the Wii, and the picture looks way off again. I have the manual and I'm trying to figure things out. Does each channel store different convergeance, geometry settings etc.?

[atheistgod1999]

Is it possible to restore burned traces on a PCB?

[bobrocks95]

Is it possible to restore burned traces on a PCB?

Yeah, solder in jumper wires to replace them.

[Chomolonzo]

Also, once I'm all done with console modding and the like, I'll have NES, SNES, and N64 all outputting RGB. The NES will have component output, SNES and N64 will be SCART. PS2, Wii, and GameCube have component as well. Can someone recommend me a switcher that'd let me pipe everything into the BVM-A20F1M I have, with audio running off into my receiver or speakers or whatever?

I've heard people mention Extron switches as pretty great, but I'd have no idea which one to get.

Furthermore, after mucking about with the settings on the BVM, the blue in the bottom left and yellow in the top right have vanished completely, but there's some slight discolouration in the bottom right now. Bizarre!

[vol.2]

Also, once I'm all done with console modding and the like, I'll have NES, SNES, and N64 all outputting RGB. The NES will have component output, SNES and N64 will be SCART. PS2, Wii, and GameCube have component as well. Can someone recommend me a switcher that'd let me pipe everything into the BVM-A20F1M I have, with audio running off into my receiver or speakers or whatever?

I've heard people mention Extron switches as pretty great, but I'd have no idea which one to get.

Furthermore, after mucking about with the settings on the BVM, the blue in the bottom left and yellow in the top right have vanished completely, but there's some slight discolouration in the bottom right now. Bizarre!

If you've exhausted the adjustments, then you may be faced with hardware convergence issues. Ive never had one if these late Sony broadcast monitors, so I don't know enough to tell you that you've reached the end. It may be worth getting the service manual for the instructions. I would personally want it regardless.

Edit: you may also need the manual for the remote module if you have one.

[Chomolonzo]

Also, once I'm all done with console modding and the like, I'll have NES, SNES, and N64 all outputting RGB. The NES will have component output, SNES and N64 will be SCART. PS2, Wii, and GameCube have component as well. Can someone recommend me a switcher that'd let me pipe everything into the BVM-A20F1M I have, with audio running off into my receiver or speakers or whatever?

I've heard people mention Extron switches as pretty great, but I'd have no idea which one to get.

Furthermore, after mucking about with the settings on the BVM, the blue in the bottom left and yellow in the top right have vanished completely, but there's some slight discolouration in the bottom right now. Bizarre!

If you've exhausted the adjustments, then you may be faced with hardware convergence issues. Ive never had one if these late Sony broadcast monitors, so I don't know enough to tell you that you've reached the end. It may be worth getting the service manual for the instructions. I would personally want it regardless.

Edit: you may also need the manual for the remote module if you have one.

After fiddling around a bit more I pressed the degaussing button and the discolouration is now gone completely. Thing is I pressed it before to little effect. Weird. Operational hours for the unit is listed as just over 13000 hours too.

Any suggestions on a switching unit?

[vol.2]

Also, once I'm all done with console modding and the like, I'll have NES, SNES, and N64 all outputting RGB. The NES will have component output, SNES and N64 will be SCART. PS2, Wii, and GameCube have component as well. Can someone recommend me a switcher that'd let me pipe everything into the BVM-A20F1M I have, with audio running off into my receiver or speakers or whatever?

I've heard people mention Extron switches as pretty great, but I'd have no idea which one to get.

Furthermore, after mucking about with the settings on the BVM, the blue in the bottom left and yellow in the top right have vanished completely, but there's some slight discolouration in the bottom right now. Bizarre!

If you've exhausted the adjustments, then you may be faced with hardware convergence issues. Ive never had one if these late Sony broadcast monitors, so I don't know enough to tell you that you've reached the end. It may be worth getting the service manual for the instructions. I would personally want it regardless.

Edit: you may also need the manual for the remote module if you have one.

After fiddling around a bit more I pressed the degaussing button and the discolouration is now gone completely. Thing is I pressed it before to little effect. Weird. Operational hours for the unit is listed as just over 13000 hours too.

Any suggestions on a switching unit?

people tend to go for euro scart for switches because the european consoles often have rgb out via scart. you can terminate from scart to bnc at your monitor. http://www.retrorgb.com/scartswitches.html

degaussing can be like that. i think it depends on how much charge is built up and i don't know why it's weak sometimes. i've had good luck with computer monitors that have a manual deguass, but not so much with tvs.

[RdCrestdBreegull]

Is it okay to keep a BVM-D20F1U or PVM-14M4U monitor near the following equipment?:

Blu-ray player, VCR, VHS tapes, A/V receiver, NES, SNES, N64, GameCube, PS2, Xbox, speakers

Wondering really about all the magnetic stuff... especially when I use the degaussing function.

Anyone know anything about this? How close is too close, and which of the mentioned units might be affected?

[Remistewart]

Best to see if the speakers you own are magnetically shielded. Most modern speakers are, but always good to double check!

[Chomolonzo]

I was thinking something along the lines of an extron switcher unit. From what I understand they have a whole bunch of bnc inputs and pass through sync or whatever. With the extron, rather than a scart switcher, I can slap scart to component converters on my grb consoles, and then bnc to rca caps on all the extron inputs. I'm aware the extron has something weird like Phoenix terminals for audio, so I might get a seperate audio switcher.

Thoughts?

[Guspaz]

The extron switches works well, but requires a lot of extra cabling. It also requires csync for all inputs. For each console, you will need to get the video to BNC, the audio to phoenix, and all cables must be csync, either natively from the console or using a sync stripper on each input.

The cost of an extron crosspoint switch, when including all the custom cables/adapters/strippers required, generally exceeds the cost of something like a gscartsw, which is an 8-port SCART switcher designed specifically for retro gaming. I don't believe the extra cost and effort is worth it just to get matrix functionality (multiple independent outputs as opposed to the two cloned outputs on the gscartsw), since that appears to be the only reason to use a crosspoint switch.

My approach to the RGB vs component issue was to connect my RGB consoles to a SCART switch, and my component consoles to a component switch, and then the output of the component switch goes through a component-to-rgb converter which is then connected to my SCART switch. So that core switch has all RGBS inputs and only one format converter was required no matter how many component consoles I have.

[vol.2]

Is there an extron RGB interface that will do the 240p trick and let me control H/V?

I'm asking because I have an older PVM so I can't do 480p. And because 240p looks cool.

[Fudoh]

Is there an extron RGB interface that will do the 240p trick and let me control H/V?

201 and 203. 202 as well, but that's an old one with DIN9 inputs for RGB instead of HD15.

[Chomolonzo]

The extron switches works well, but requires a lot of extra cabling. It also requires csync for all inputs. For each console, you will need to get the video to BNC, the audio to phoenix, and all cables must be csync, either natively from the console or using a sync stripper on each input.

The cost of an extron crosspoint switch, when including all the custom cables/adapters/strippers required, generally exceeds the cost of something like a gscartsw, which is an 8-port SCART switcher designed specifically for retro gaming. I don't believe the extra cost and effort is worth it just to get matrix functionality (multiple independent outputs as opposed to the two cloned outputs on the gscartsw), since that appears to be the only reason to use a crosspoint switch.

My approach to the RGB vs component issue was to connect my RGB consoles to a SCART switch, and my component consoles to a component switch, and then the output of the component switch goes through a component-to-rgb converter which is then connected to my SCART switch. So that core switch has all RGBS inputs and only one format converter was required no matter how many component consoles I have.

That gscartsw looks nice! Only problem is availability. Failing that I'll grab an extron for 100bucks or so with the converters and cables I need from retrogamingcables. Audio is more of a problem with those dopey phoenix terminals, but I cold get a seperate audio switcher if I needed.