There are many different RGB amps out there; every one has it's pros and cons. As I already mentioned, for me PERSONALLY, I find the AV-Driver + cost of 8 pin DIN + cost of SCART cable + shipping from Australia ($30!!) to be an overkill for DUO and DUO-R simply because it comes out to be more than twice as expensive as the alternative solutions. One alternative solution (find it in buy-and-sell here) includes the 8 pin DIN and SCART cable with the sync stripper and the RGB amp (with the correct resistor values as recommended by Tim on another forum) for the same cost as just the AV-Driver.RGB32E wrote:Speak for yourself! It's a kind of a waste not to use the sync buffer, and then require customers to use a cable with a sync separator circuit. If a switch for Cv/CS75 isn't an option for whatever reason an internal cable swap is an alternative, or even a kit that reads controller input to change the output signals (ultra fancy borti-like)!leonk wrote:but overkillfor duo/duo-r as you will not use the audio amp nor sync buffer.
If I was doing a PCE or TG16 install, AV-Driver is all I would use.
I have done both for many different customers, and I have also done A/B comparisons on my 20" Sony PVM, I can't see the difference. I have never seen picture noise/diagonal lines using either RGB amps on my setup, nor the 2 XRGB-mini setups I've setup.
Off topic: The only time I've ever seen diag lines is with the NESRGB + OKI-78SR-5 Switching Regulator that Tim sells. But I've already told him about it, and all the solutions he suggested didn't fix the problem. I've stopped using that regulator as a result.