Questions that do not deserve a thread

[tacoguy64]

Are there any resources for buying an audio receiver for gaming over HDMI? Lag stats, if they do unnecessary upscaling, etc?

I would think injecting the OSD overlay alone adds a frame or two. Are older HDMI receivers that have an entirely separate OSD that blanks the input instead of using an overlay generally better in terms of lag?

Have been wondering about this too. Curious to see if some have an acceptable additional lag. Some fellow here uses is Onkyo receiver in this fashion, but I forget who it is.

But if I'm not mistaken, the receivers lag will add to that of the TV, no? just like a Framemeister's lag adds to that of the TV

That would be banyuki or however you spell it.
The one he uses has a really nice upscaler chip *similar to an xrgb mini* and adds very little input lag. I use a cheap receiver myself along with the xrgb mini and I haven't noticed much lag at all if any either.

[Unseen]

I would think injecting the OSD overlay alone adds a frame or two.

Why?

[ajdesmarais]

I'd look for the service manual- I was able to find google results that say black is always live and I was able to find google results that say black is always neutral so obviously that can't be trusted.

I know. Unfortunately, the service manual is no help either. It simply shows that there is live and neutral, but it doesn't indicate their color or their position in relation to each other.

EDIT:
Actually, I found this on another page. I suck at reading schematics, though. Is this telling me that live is white? The board on the left is the input/terminal board.

Also, I really hope that the N and L on the socket mean "live" and "neutral". I know it seems to make sense, but I've learned not to trust anything.

[atheistgod1999]

Is it possible that the rainbow banding on the Model 1 Genesis is caused by interference from the blue pin? I have a VA3 with bad rainbow banding and jailbars on blue (and I'm using CRTs).

[SGGG2]

I can't get widescreen working with the Model 2 Emulator 1.1a. I've got custom resolution working in fullscreen and set the ratio to 16:9 in the ini. I've copied several WS lua scripts with no success. Any help?

[Das Muel]

I can't get widescreen working with the Model 2 Emulator 1.1a. I've got custom resolution working in fullscreen and set the ratio to 16:9 in the ini. I've copied several WS lua scripts with no success. Any help?

Only a handful of roms will run in widescreen - Sega Rally and Daytona off the top of my head. Virtua Fighter 2 et al run in 4:3 only.

[SGGG2]

At the very least, Sonic Fighters works - although I'm unable to replicate his results, it should be as simple as pasting the linked lua file in the scripts folder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xprTUgaAl4

EDIT: And here's one for VF2

http://www.supermodel3.com/Forum/viewto ... t=10#p3296

[bobrocks95]

I would think injecting the OSD overlay alone adds a frame or two.

Why?

Isn't using a framebuffer the lazier, easier way to do it? Maybe I have that flipped around...

[Unseen]

Isn't using a framebuffer the lazier, easier way to do it? Maybe I have that flipped around...

I would say that it's easier to have a seperate frame buffer with some kind of alpha channel or color keying that is overlaid "live": If you have the video in a framebuffer and draw your OSD onto it, you need to do that again every single frame - but if you have a seperate OSD framebuffer and just overlay it onto the live video, you just need to draw the OSD graphics when they change.

[ApolloBoy]

Is it possible that the rainbow banding on the Model 1 Genesis is caused by interference from the blue pin? I have a VA3 with bad rainbow banding and jailbars on blue (and I'm using CRTs).

No. The problem isn't the blue pin, it's the pin for the color subcarrier signal causing the jailbars on the blue signal. The rainbow banding isn't caused by the subcarrier AFAIK.

[SGGG2]

Downloaded version 1.0 of the Model 2 emulator - and it worked right away with the same ini and lua scripts from 1.1a!

Playing Top Skater in 16:9 and stereoscopic 3D is pretty badass.

[atheistgod1999]

I just got my first gaming monitor for my PC and HD consoles (it's a BenQ RL2455HM FYI). It's flicker-free (and when I was taking pictures comparing my previous LED with my new one with latency I could clearly see that my old one was flickering while my new one wasn't when I turned up the shutter speed), yet I'm getting massive headaches from this one. I've never gotten headaches from my older one or even CRTs when they do 480i (even though I can notice that flicker).

[Ed Oscuro]

Check the height setting (should be about at the same level as the previous one), size (smaller could be leading to eyestrain), and brightness (too high or low could also lead to eyestrain). Can't offer a silver bullet but these are some things to check on.

[sixbynine]

Quick one: What shortens the lifespan of a tube? High contrast or brightness? Or both?

[ryu]

Both

[accaris]

How do those low-lag gaming monitors like BenQ perform when you hook up a Framemeister or iScan for example? Does it make a difference?
Seems like the lag on 32-inch TVs is going up, not down, with these newer models, so I may have to just get a PC monitor.

[ryu]

Of course. The lag from the devices adds up to the lag of your TV...

[okerlo]

I've got quite a few questions about the SNES/SFC which might fit better in the SFC thread in the off topic section but I'll try my luck here anyway.
So I'm currently thinking about getting a super nes which raised a few questions, first of all, what do I want?

I've got a Sony Trinitron crt (European model) and a PAL snes. The console seems not to be moddable with the switchless mod as this console is one of the later revisions.

All I want is to play Japanese games so I would like to know what you think would be the best option considering that I'm on a quite tight budget.
Should I try to make my PAL console region free? (probably with the not so great switch mod?). Should I put my PAL console aside and get a Super Famicom? This would raise a few other questions: do I need a stepdown converter or can I use the PAL power supply? Would I need a Japanese RGB cable and would my (european) television accept the Japanese rgb cable?

What would you do?

Thank you very much in advance!

[Fudoh]

If you get a SFC, you cannot use your SNES PSU. PAL SNES uses a AV power supply, while the NTSC units use a DC power supply.
PAL SNES and NTSC SFC require different RGB cables (same connectors, but differently equipped). Getting a RGB cable for a NTSC SFC doesn't imply that you would get a JP21 pinout. Usually you would just get a EURO-Scart layout which will work fine on your TV.

[okerlo]

If you get a SFC, you cannot use your SNES PSU. PAL SNES uses a AV power supply, while the NTSC units use a DC power supply.

Oh ok, so I should get at least something like this, right? I also read that the PSU of the original Mega Drive 1 should work, too but didn't find a 100% confirmation yet.

PAL SNES and NTSC SFC require different RGB cables (same connectors, but differently equipped). Getting a RGB cable for a NTSC SFC doesn't imply that you would get a JP21 pinout. Usually you would just get a EURO-Scart layout which will work fine on your TV.

Alright, so I shouldn't worry too much about the rgb-cable. As long as I use an EURO-Scart cable (for instance a GameCube one) everything will work fine?

I'm currently leaning towards putting my PAL snes aside and getting a 1chip SFC (should be much cheaper than the .jr version). Just I'm getting this right: the 1chip Super Famicoms are supporting RGB output natively, I don't need to open the console and do some modifications?

Thanks in advance!

[Fudoh]

Oh ok, so I should get at least something like this, right? I also read that the PSU of the original Mega Drive 1 should work, too but didn't find a 100% confirmation yet.

that's too weak. I'm not 100% sure on the SFC PSU specs, but the MD one has 1,2 amps, so you should get something with at least these specs. And yes, the MD PSUs work for sure.

I'm currently leaning towards putting my PAL snes aside and getting a 1chip SFC (should be much cheaper than the .jr version). Just I'm getting this right: the 1chip Super Famicoms are supporting RGB output natively, I don't need to open the console and do some modifications?

yes, they do, although the 1CHIP-03 does not have the csync line connected, so when getting a RGB cable you might want to know what you're ordering (composite video for sync or clean csync). Retrogamingcables has all configs imaginable. Just take a minute to verify what you want (and need).

[Guspaz]

And remember, PAL euroscart and NTSC euroscart (used for north american and japanese consoles) cables are different, and you can damage your display by confusing them. The PAL consoles put 12 volts on the same pin as the NTSC consoles put csync (which I think is 5 volts).

[zakruowrath]

Anyone have Sega Mark III carts from Japan? I wanted to ask if they fit in the Master System plastic clamshell cases or are they too big?

EDIT: Arseen over on The Cover Project showed me a good picture comparison, they do NOT fit, so a universal game case (UGC) is what I'll use

[atheistgod1999]

How can I find the horizontal s-correction capacitor in consumer CRT service manuals? What are they usually called and/or located?

[accaris]

About to buy a Sony KDL-32R300C, apparently it's the last 32-inch TV that Sony made. I've heard most Sony TVs have extremely low input lag, but someone also said models ending in "C" had higher than normal lag. Is there any truth to this? This model isn't in any of the input lag databases out there.

[Xyga]

About to buy a Sony KDL-32R300C, apparently it's the last 32-inch TV that Sony made. I've heard most Sony TVs have extremely low input lag, but someone also said models ending in "C" had higher than normal lag. Is there any truth to this? This model isn't in any of the input lag databases out there.

Their last great 32" was the 32W700C (32W705C in Europe), the 32R300C, in particular being a 720p surely doesn't come even close, and I would bet it is behind in the area of lag as well.
Other than that yes, unless proved otherwise and with the exception of the 32W7, all 2015 and on models ending in C have more lag than the older ones ending in B (2014) and A (2013).

We have a Sony TV thread here by the way: http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... &start=660

[accaris]

About to buy a Sony KDL-32R300C, apparently it's the last 32-inch TV that Sony made. I've heard most Sony TVs have extremely low input lag, but someone also said models ending in "C" had higher than normal lag. Is there any truth to this? This model isn't in any of the input lag databases out there.

Their last great 32" was the 32W700C (32W705C in Europe), the 32R300C, in particular being a 720p surely doesn't come even close, and I would bet it is behind in the area of lag as well.
Other than that yes, unless proved otherwise and with the exception of the 32W7, all 2015 and on models ending in C have more lag than the older ones ending in B (2014) and A (2013).

Thanks, I might go with the equally priced Vizio, although the reviews for the 32R300C are quite glowing. It's on clearance for $169.99 right now... a sure sign that they're about to stop carrying it.

[RGB32E]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-Neo-Geo-AE ... 1390406283

Any ideas which composite video or RGB to HDMI upscaler is contained in this AES? The auction mentions the following notes:

*there are some TVs & monitors on the market that have issues with the Neo's odd sync signal which can affect the compatibility with the attached display device; this is not a flaw or malfunction but an intolerance of the monitor's frequency range. Also, the stock composite video signal (via 8 Pin DIN connector) is dim/weakened due to the digital upgrade*

This appears to indicate that it doesn't use charcole's NeoGeoHDMI solution in any form, as the NeoGeoHDMI handles overclocking the NG to "standard" refresh rates to solve the "odd" Neo Geo refresh rate issue. Hence, it appears Neotropolis just fitted one of these $30 garbage converters in an AES along with a unibios and stereo audio routed from the headphone jack for a $500+ profit. Can anyone confirm?

[atheistgod1999]

I'm getting a job at Starbucks and I've been thinking of saving up and getting an Analogue CMVS with all the money I'll be getting. Is it worth it? I'm afraid the casing will rot and get moldy due to being made of wood. Also, is it flammable?

[BazookaBen]

I'm getting a job at Starbucks and I've been thinking of saving up and getting an Analogue CMVS with all the money I'll be getting. Is it worth it? I'm afraid the casing will rot and get moldy due to being made of wood. Also, is it flammable?

Well, isn't the furniture in your house made of wood? Is it all rotted and moldy?