Issues with my RGB modded PC-Engine Duo

[the_importer]

Hi there,

I've purchased a PCE Duo RGB mod kit from this website: http://www.otakus-store.net/en/content/6-guide-nec-rgb

I've had a colleague at work install the Amp and DIN connector as well as install the replacement Cap. The results, well I get ghosting effects. The image gets a bit blurry and even more when it comes to text:

http://tinypic.com/r/s6rksj/8
http://tinypic.com/r/fozpj8/8
http://tinypic.com/r/9huwi1/8
http://tinypic.com/r/6t1nv4/8
http://tinypic.com/r/wmo29w/8

My theory, the ghosting image is actually the original composite signal still being displayed as well as the RGB one. The mod requires you to solder 3 pins on the replacement DIN with the RGB wires coming from the Amp. The Left & Right audio, grounds and sync are still being fed from the console's board right into the DIN's feet. I get the feeling that the composite signal is also feed into the DIN's feet as well and that the trace needs to be cut.

Please note that I have no skills in electronics (I'm a computer guy), so this is just a theory. So what do you guys think?

[alamone]

That's not going to happen. It looks more like a grounding problem. Have him double check the wiring.

[the_importer]

That's not going to happen. It looks more like a grounding problem. Have him double check the wiring.

hmm, thing is, he's already checked it 2 times already

The first time he checked it, he cut the sync-on-composite trace in order to put the pure sync on the DIN (like it showed in the guide I posted). That didn't solve the issue and caused the sync to be wacky most of the time.

The 2nd time he checked it, he put back the sync the way it was and basically double the grounds on the Amp. The sync is back to normal, but the ghosting problem persisted.

I'll add a couple of things:

1- He said that the Amp seems like it got shit out of China and was badly manufactured because the soldering points on top pretty much fell off 1 by 1 and he had to solder the wires under it.

2- The replacement DIN's front feet were cut off because he didn't have a drill at our office to make holes into the board. He just said to be careful not to add to much pressure when handling the SCART cable.

[ApolloBoy]

replacement DIN's front feet were cut off because he didn't have a drill at our office to make holes into the board

I think that's your problem right there. Those front two pins on the DIN socket are for the shroud on the cable, which is supposed to be grounded. If it's not grounded you'll get ghosting.

[the_importer]

replacement DIN's front feet were cut off because he didn't have a drill at our office to make holes into the board

I think that's your problem right there. Those front two pins on the DIN socket are for the shroud on the cable, which is supposed to be grounded. If it's not grounded you'll get ghosting.

As I stated, I know next to nothing in electronics, but I did read the guide I posted that comes from the seller of these RGB kits. They say on their guide:

2. Optional stage (but highly recommended) : the lining holes
If you choose not to do this stage, the kit will work but the DIN8 connector will be less well fixed, it could over time be damaged.
Copy the following measures and drill 2 holes of 2 mm.

Now they could have not known or simple forgot to add the grounding part. That being said, I should also state that they do make RGB modding services if you live in France, so one would assume they would know about this ghosting effect if the pins are not grounded.

[speedlolita]

Use the original feet of the 5 pin DIN. It is what I did.

http://i.imgur.com/wpjfNlD.jpg

[the_importer]

Use the original feet of the 5 pin DIN. It is what I did.

http://i.imgur.com/wpjfNlD.jpg

Regardless if this is the problem or not, it would have been something good to know since keeping the original feet would have made the connector more stable. For that alone, I'll buy another one, if it solves the ghosting issue as well, great.

[kamiboy]

Easy solution. On the bottom side of the mobo there are two ground spots for the AV port. One for the feet, and one for the actual ground pin of the AV out. Just solder a wire across the two and the shadows should go away.

[the_importer]

Easy solution. On the bottom side of the mobo there are two ground spots for the AV port. One for the feet, and one for the actual ground pin of the AV out. Just solder a wire across the two and the shadows should go away.

Using speedlolita's picture, do you mean doing this:

[kamiboy]

No, those two are already connected. You would connect one of those to the one ground pin among the ones further back.

[kamiboy]

Come to think of it. Now that I look at the picture, the GND's seem to be connected already. The idea is to connect the shield GND pin of the AV port to the mobo GND.

Maybe that is not possible on the mobo due to badly connected legs maybe you are better doing some sort of hack to force that connection. Or maybe you could do it on the SCART side.

[the_importer]

Thanks for the replies kamiboy, but I think that stabilizing that connector is just as important, so I'll order some female DIN connectors. I'll buy a couple of 5 ports for the feet and in case it it break while removing it, I'll order a couple of 8 pins as well.

BTW: out of these, which 5 pins and 8 pins should I order:

http://tinyurl.com/qchpe2y
http://tinyurl.com/orkqtkf

[CkRtech]

btw - what display are you hooking this up to?

[the_importer]

btw - what display are you hooking this up to?

PCE-Duo RGB SCART ---> XRGB-Mini ---> LED TV

[the_importer]

Well, the front pins of the DIN have been grounded, no differences. Guess the AMP is just shit, I'll have to try to find a modder in Canada that can do this from scratch.

[the_importer]

Sorry to revive this topic, but I just thought I post an update of the situation:

The guy who did my mod tried 3 times until he suggested to buy the parts to build an AMP, which I did for a fraction of what it cost to buy the one on Otakus-Store. The AMP he made gave us the same ghosting results, hence why we deduced that it was the cable that was the problem (the cable from Otakus-Store was lacking in proper shielding). Retro_Console_Accessories on ebay was kind enough to modify a NEO-GEO AES cable into PC-Engine Duo and it works perfectly now. I wasted months of my life trying to get this to work properly and spent 4 times the amount of cash that it should have cost me.

My recommendation, do NOT buy anything from http://www.otakus-store.net/en/

[Endymion]

So... otakus-store's amp was not the problem after all?

[the_importer]

So... otakus-store's amp was not the problem after all?

Nope, it was their cheap SCART cable. That being said, their AMP is way over priced considering that they probably have bulks of these produced in China and the soldering points were cheap, they all fell off.

[No Onions]

To the OP, I just found this thread today.

I have been having the exact same issue as you with my RGB modded DUO using the kit from Otaku's Store. I'm happy to see you found the cause of the issue since its been making me avoid playing my duo with the eye bleeding ghosting going on. I'm actually talking with Retro Console Accessories right now about having some scart cables made for my RGB modded N64 and AV Famicom so I'll see about getting her to make me 1 more cable. I'd be so happy if this fixed my problem

[the_crayon_king]

Hi there,

I've purchased a PCE Duo RGB mod kit from this website: http://www.otakus-store.net/en/content/6-guide-nec-rgb

I've had a colleague at work install the Amp and DIN connector as well as install the replacement Cap. The results, well I get ghosting effects. The image gets a bit blurry and even more when it comes to text:

http://tinypic.com/r/s6rksj/8
http://tinypic.com/r/fozpj8/8
http://tinypic.com/r/9huwi1/8
http://tinypic.com/r/6t1nv4/8
http://tinypic.com/r/wmo29w/8

My theory, the ghosting image is actually the original composite signal still being displayed as well as the RGB one. The mod requires you to solder 3 pins on the replacement DIN with the RGB wires coming from the Amp. The Left & Right audio, grounds and sync are still being fed from the console's board right into the DIN's feet. I get the feeling that the composite signal is also feed into the DIN's feet as well and that the trace needs to be cut.

Please note that I have no skills in electronics (I'm a computer guy), so this is just a theory. So what do you guys think?

You could try this board:
https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394/PCE_RGB_ ... -y5hfPbwu4

I've designed and ordered a bunch but they haven't arrived for me to test yet...

Anyway try disconnecting one wire at a time, Red, Green, and Blue. That might help you troubleshoot what line the ghosting is coming from. If it still persists it must be on the sync line then try a different sync or a lm1881 sync stripper circuit:
https://easyeda.com/hotdog6394/SYNC_STRIPPER-rHgecawur

Also make extra sure that the wires on the HU chip are not bridging to anything. I use 30 awg wires on those pins anything large is risky for a bridge. Leftover flux can also cause a bridge use rubbing alcohol to clean those tiny pins.

[No Onions]

Just wanted to post an update, I got a new scart cable from Retro Console Accessories today and now my Duo looks perfect in RGB, I thought something else was screwed up for months and it was just the cable. I opened up the cable from Otaku's Store and there was no shield ground connected, bad place to cut corners apparently. I'm happy now though