Recommend some quality gear for component signals!

[mikehaggar]

So I just discovered that my tv has a component input! I'm looking to migrate all my consoles from S-video to component. Therefore, there are three devices I'm looking for: a good rgb scart switcher (for the consoles that output rgb), a good component switcher, and a good rgb scart to component transcoder.

It would be awesome if there were a device that could take multiple scart inputs and convert them all to component at once (or a switcher that also transcodes the final signal), but I'm not holding my breath and expect to have to combine lots of stuff like I did for my s-video setup.

Can you guys give me some good recommendations?

[juji82]

I have a Sony SB-V41D D-Terminal switch.

[HydrogLox]

good rgb scart to component transcoder.

See http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 3#p1092743.

The issue with CSY-2100 clones is their varying level of quality. And with the 9A60 you need a special cable to use it with SCART.

[Mishrak109]

a good component switcher

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AN ... UTF8&psc=1

This has worked spectacularly well switching between my component SNES and PS2 for being an unpowered switch.

[bobrocks95]

It depends on the quality you want. For the highest-quality stuff I'd recommend an Audio-Authority component switch and transcoder (don't have any experience with SCART switches, but check out a post on Bucko's site here http://www.videogameperfection.com/2011 ... h-roundup/- you might see him pop into the thread too).

The 9A60 is frequently vouched for on the transcoder end, and for component switches you have the 1154, 1154A, 1154B, or the 1166, which I personally use.

If you're on a CRT though, you can probably get away with a CSY clone for transcoding and that GE switch, or maybe a Pelican one for component. Unless you're a real stickler for quality or want to use your equipment on a large HDTV, you honestly probably won't notice huge gains going to the expensive stuff. It's your call.

[Grimakis]

Honestly, I've been using the GE Component Switch from here:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-73344-Switch-E ... B003ANXHWM

I have experienced no signal degradation with this product.

Regards,
george

[22point8]

Instead of a component switcher you could get some component to vga cables and use a vga switcher.

[mikehaggar]

Lots of good tips, thanks guys!

I have a lot of options here it seems....keep 'em coming! I'm slowly piecing an idea together in my head (and some diagrams) to see how to best hook everything up....going to be a pain but I think the video quality will be worth it!

Although....I'm not really sure how big the difference between S-video and component connections will be on a crt....hopefully at least noticeable!

[bobrocks95]

I noticed a big difference personally going from S-Video to component transcoded from RGB, mostly with regards to color bleeding and color vibrancy. Others have said it's not a very noticeable jump, so it seems fairly subjective. Maybe start with just a transcoder and a single SCART cable before you go all in?

[Josh128]

Theres not much if any difference in picture clarity/sharpness-- but I agree the color is much richer and more vibrant with component transcoded RGB than SVideo.

[bobrocks95]

That's why I said it was subjective
There was much less color bleeding and the image appeared sharper on MY display, at the very least.

[22point8]

The reason the sharpness is the same between svideo and component is the luma is the black and white image, the colour is either rgb all lumped in to chroma (svideo) or red and blue difference (component). Watch any TV show/dvd/bluray if you turn the colour down to 0 it looks sharper, thats because the colour is overlayed on top of the black and white image at a quarter of the resolution, thats chroma subsampling is 4:2:0 etc.

[mikehaggar]

A lot of you recommend the 9A60 for converting an RGB signal to component, however, it only accepts the d-sub connectors as its input. What is the best way to take a scart rgb signal and run it into this box?

[Josh128]

A lot of you recommend the 9A60 for converting an RGB signal to component, however, it only accepts the d-sub connectors as its input. What is the best way to take a scart rgb signal and run it into this box?

Get or build a SCART to D-Sub 15 cable so that (so Im told) the wire from the SCART sync pin is connected to both the vertical and horizontal sync pins on the D-Sub. Wire the R,G,B and grounds on the SCART to their normal D-Sub pins and you should be good to go.

That said, I currently have and use 1 9A60 (for DC) and 2 CSY-2100 clones and on my plasma, their output is absolutely identical. I didnt have to adjust anything on either of my clones, they looked great right out of the box. The 2100 clones have done nothing but impress me, and are very easy to mod for audio out. I love Audio Authority stuff, but if you only plan to use the 9A60 on 240p, its my personal opinion that the 2100 is the better value. If you want to transcode 480p or higher stuff, then the 9A60 is def. the ticket.

[mikehaggar]

I'm all about cheap products if they work just as well! Which clone exactly do you recommend? Can you provide a link?

[bobrocks95]

CSY-clones are anything that looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCAR ... +component

[HydrogLox]

Some people reported problems with some of the CSY-2100 clones. Have a look at these topics:
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50432
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52524
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52698

[BONKERS]

Theres not much if any difference in picture clarity/sharpness-- but I agree the color is much richer and more vibrant with component transcoded RGB than SVideo.

The signal Luma wise, is not much different. But it's the color that makes a huge difference.


Also: It may be worth more to invest in a real CSY 2100, it's about 30$ more, but you know it's genuine.

http://www.cypconverters.com.au/video-p ... -2100.html
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:csy-2100

[Einzelherz]

Some people reported problems with some of the CSY-2100 clones. Have a look at these topics:
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50432
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52524
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52698

In my case (first link) it has absolutely nothing to do with the CSY clone. It's entirely on my TV with how it interprets a 240p signal.

Nothing but sunshine and puppy dogs with my two clones (from the amazon seller linked above)

[mikehaggar]

A lot of you recommend the 9A60 for converting an RGB signal to component, however, it only accepts the d-sub connectors as its input. What is the best way to take a scart rgb signal and run it into this box?

Get or build a SCART to D-Sub 15 cable so that (so Im told) the wire from the SCART sync pin is connected to both the vertical and horizontal sync pins on the D-Sub. Wire the R,G,B and grounds on the SCART to their normal D-Sub pins and you should be good to go.

That said, I currently have and use 1 9A60 (for DC) and 2 CSY-2100 clones and on my plasma, their output is absolutely identical. I didnt have to adjust anything on either of my clones, they looked great right out of the box. The 2100 clones have done nothing but impress me, and are very easy to mod for audio out. I love Audio Authority stuff, but if you only plan to use the 9A60 on 240p, its my personal opinion that the 2100 is the better value. If you want to transcode 480p or higher stuff, then the 9A60 is def. the ticket.

How would I mod a 2100 clone for audio out? Do I just use one of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scart-to-Audio- ... 1190880604

[Josh128]

Dont use one of those. I did for a while. They suck. The connections are iffy and you have to wiggle them around to get them seated just right for proper colors.

You just need a drill with about 1/4" bit or so, a set of red and white RCA cables,preferrably female (so you can extend them if needed). Drill a hole in the output side of the case to pass the wires through, then solder each of them to the corresponding SCART pin on the 2100 clone PCB. Solder the ground wires to a good ground point.

Theres a nice instructional somewhere at the following link: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/ ... -converter

[bobrocks95]

Retro_console_accessories has a new SCART audio breakout box, and given the quality of her other cables I would think it's quite nice: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCART-audio-bre ... 25a0d89f74

[Einzelherz]

I mounted a TRRR jack where the ugly red LED lived. The third channel is for mono (SMS). An even easier way would be to feed a 1/8" headphone to RCA adapter through the original hole after lopping off the headphone jack.