Can you use OEM Japanese PSUs in North America?

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

I'd like some insight into whether it is safe to use original Japanese Adapters for consoles in North America.

To expand on my individual circumstance, I own a RGB modded AV Famicom that I use in Canada. Originally, I read that it was not advised to use Japanese AC adapters in North American outlets, as it would be expecting 100V AC input from the wall, but gets 120V AC here in North America, which could lead to a host of problems.

As a result, I purchased a Genesis Model 1 AC adapter, listed as:
Model: 1602-1
Input: 120V AC 60Hz 20W
Output: 10V DC 1.2A
Negative polarity

As far as I can see, it's within spec to operate the AV Famicom. Having said that, I was experiencing a weird anomaly while playing the console with my N8 Everdrive; on occasion, the screen would flicker and momentarily flash black, losing the picture, but not the sound. The best way I can describe it was what you experience when changing the channel on your cable box, only the duration of the black screen is less than .25 of a second (and as aforementioned, there's no sound loss). This was consistently evident when playing Double Dragon, but not reliably reproducible with other games, only happening sporadically.

On a hunch, I plugged in the OEM Japanese AV Famicom AC adapter, and the problem was remedied. I'm glad the problem is solved, but I'm still unsure whether it's safe to use the stock adapter in North America. My questions would be the following:

Will using an OEM Av Famicom in North America;

1. Cause damage to the adapter,
2. Cause damage to my console, or
3. Potentially cause a fire (I've experienced a house fire before, so I'm particularly paranoid about this)

In addition, is it actually safe and compatible to use the aforementioned Genesis adapter, and that mine was just becoming faulty? Furthermore, is it advised to use a step-down transformer in North America just to be safe, or is that not needed at all with the OEM adapter? As my RGB modded AV Famicom was a somewhat costly investment for me (and a prized possession), I'd like to be sure that I'm not damaging it in any way; all of your insights would be greatly appreciated!

[bobrocks95]

You're feeding the adapter 20V extra, so either it will fail or the Famicom will fail, sooner rather than later. It also has the potential to cause a house fire, yes.

If you want to use the OEM adapter, get a step-down voltage converter to take 120V from the wall and convert it to 100V like the adapter expects. The Genesis AC adapter should work though- what's the output of the OEM adapter?

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

The OEM adapter reads:

Model 1 HVC-002
18VA
DC 10V 850 mA
Negative Polarity

Is there a step-down transformer you'd recommend? This one was suggested on famicomworld:
http://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-1000J-Japan ... T+VT-1000J

Am I better off trying another Genesis AC adapter, or should I spring for the step-down transformer? It's $80+ shipping, which is a lot more than I thought one would cost...

[CkRtech]

I am not an authority on the 100v AC adapter into 120v socket, but I generally just don't worry about it. Those AC adapters (transformers) are quite possibly within their fault tolerance range as it is, and they ultimately are only having to output a low amperage, low voltage DC feed to run these consoles. This is quite different from trying to run a hairdryer.

Still, on the subject of the Genesis AC adapter - that does seem rather odd that you would have that problem with a functioning Genesis adapter. So long as the polarity is a match, voltage is "close," and amp draw provides the same or more as the OEM, it seems like you should be good. <shrug>

[Grimakis]

I don't think the adapter will be much of a problem running at 120v. However it will run warmer, and over time would probably fail sooner.

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

This is why I started this thread; I've heard many disparate answers to these questions in the past, without any consensus reached. So far with three responses, the opinions range the spectrum; yes it can cause fires, yes it may damage the adapter over time, and no, it shouldn't be a problem. I'd like to see more opinions come in, particularly from those who own Japanese consoles that they use here in North America.

[Grimakis]

If you are concerned, I would try to find a 10v switching supply that runs on 100-240v. It's just a matter of finding the right sized tip. Something like this would probably be around $20 USD, and available at a store like RadioShack in the United States. IDK about similar retailers in Canada.

Regards,
George

[Xan]

At least some switched-mode PSUs seem to cause video interference with consoles though. I had this problem on my Super Famicom.

[bobrocks95]

This is why I started this thread; I've heard many disparate answers to these questions in the past, without any consensus reached. So far with three responses, the opinions range the spectrum; yes it can cause fires, yes it may damage the adapter over time, and no, it shouldn't be a problem. I'd like to see more opinions come in, particularly from those who own Japanese consoles that they use here in North America.

I use a Sega CD Model 2 adapter (well, either that or Genesis model 2 adapter, I forget which I pull when I want to play Famicom) on mine. I don't have an Everdrive to test with though. I know it would draw a bit more amperage than any other cart, but your adapter is already 350 mA above the OEM's rating...

I don't think it warrants switching to the OEM adapter, I'd do my best to try and find out what the issue is. Maybe contact the Everdrive manufacturer and see if it's something they've seen before, I dunno. There are voltage tolerances in devices/adapters, but 20% is a little high, I wouldn't expect such a large tolerance.

[mickcris]

have you measured the output out of your wall socket? It may be actually be closer to 110v than 120v so even less of an issue if thats the case.

I run Japanese power supplies without much thought. I have never had a problem.

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

have you measured the output out of your wall socket? It may be actually be closer to 110v than 120v so even less of an issue if thats the case.

I run Japanese power supplies without much thought. I have never had a problem.

I should look into that. Stupid question; what tool would I need to measure the voltage of my wall socket? I have a power bar plugged into the wall, so should I measure the wall, and the power bar socket?

[mickcris]

have you measured the output out of your wall socket? It may be actually be closer to 110v than 120v so even less of an issue if thats the case.

I run Japanese power supplies without much thought. I have never had a problem.

I should look into that. Stupid question; what tool would I need to measure the voltage of my wall socket? I have a power bar plugged into the wall, so should I measure the wall, and the power bar socket?

A voltmeter (or multimeter) set to AC voltage. Just stick the black lead into the ground (round hole at the bottom) and red lead into the slot on the right. shouldn't matter which socket you test. at my house is actually 121v, but i think some places its closer to 114v. Not much of a difference though, but would be closer to the tolerance limits of the 100v supply.

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

Thanks for the advice, I'll pick one up. Is there any other safety precautions that I should take when inserting the leads into sockets (ground myself, insulation, etc.)?

[RGB32E]

Did you check the smoothing capacitor inside the Genesis 1 power supply? I recapped the Genesis 1 power supply I use with my NESRGB AV Famicom and haven't encountered the issues you describe. I'm also using the secondary voltage regulator to power the NESRGB in my install. Then again, I don't use flash carts.

[mickcris]

Thanks for the advice, I'll pick one up. Is there any other safety precautions that I should take when inserting the leads into sockets (ground myself, insulation, etc.)?

its probably not worth it to buy one just for that. the difference isn't gonna be that much anyways. a multimeter is good to have though.

just dont touch the metal part of the lead when its stuck in the socket.

also, you probably dont really need to worry about this issue. Your console will be fine running with the Japanese supply.

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

Did you check the smoothing capacitor inside the Genesis 1 power supply? I recapped the Genesis 1 power supply I use with my NESRGB AV Famicom and haven't encountered the issues you describe. I'm also using the secondary voltage regulator to power the NESRGB in my install. Then again, I don't use flash carts.

I have no idea what a smoothing capacitor is, much less how to open the PSU . I suppose I'm more interested in the intellectual standard as to whether such an adapter is compatible with an AV Famicom, and if an OEM adapter is safe for use in North America. I'm not really interested in attempting to fix this particular Genesis adapter, if the consensus is that these models should work with an AV Famicom, I can always pick up another one on the cheap. Alternatively, I'm still waiting to determine as to whether the OEM adapter is perfectly safe for me to use.

[bobrocks95]

If the Famicom World page says the Genesis cord is compatible, I'd say it's a reliable/trustworthy source. You might try getting another one of those first to see if it resolves your problem, assuming they're cheap enough.

[mickcris]

the av famicom adapter and the genesis 1 adapter both output 9v center negative so its perfectly fine to use. consoles in Japan used to not come with a power supply AFAIK so they all seemed to make the specs the same so they were interchangeable. Same power supply can be used for Famicom, Super Famicom, Mega Drive/Genesis 1, Master System, PC Engine (small original models), probably others I am forgetting.

[Ed Oscuro]

consoles in Japan used to not come with a power supply

Not true. The A/V FC didn't have one packed-in, but Nintendo wanted their 1200 yen for the adapters they sold separately (the model worked on the SFC as well). Any other system I can think of (even old ones, like the SC-3000, JP SMS, and the Mega Drive models I can think of, besides maybe the Mega Jet) all had adapters bundled along.

[mickcris]

consoles in Japan used to not come with a power supply

Not true. The A/V FC didn't have one packed-in, but Nintendo wanted their 1200 yen for the adapters they sold separately (the model worked on the SFC as well). Any other system I can think of (even old ones, like the SC-3000, JP SMS, and the Mega Drive models I can think of, besides maybe the Mega Jet) all had adapters bundled along.

cool, wasn't sure about that. either way they all the ones I listed used the same same specs/plug for some reason.

[mvsfan]

if you buy another genesis psu its likely that the capacitor in that one will be on its way out too.

Replace the cap or find someone to do it, and you shouldnt have any more problems with it in the future. the other parts arent likely to go bad unless it gets hit with a surge.

I just had a newly aquired genesis psu that was giving me video interference. I replaced the cap and the video is now perfect.

sometimes companies will use the same parts anyway. it wouldnt make sence to sell an ac adapter in japan that was truly 100v if you were also planning to export the product to the us wich uses the same wall socket. the transformers could very well be the same.

btw, dont use an NES adapter for your famicom. the nes is AC and famicom is DC.

[Ed Oscuro]

cool, wasn't sure about that. either way they all the ones I listed used the same same specs/plug for some reason.

Yeah, I'd like to know the story as well. It was a good guess

[TheRac25]

if JP PS is 100-> 10v then it will become 120-> 12v, the 7805 or whatever is in there will run slightly hotter but if i was concerned about that i would get a 7.5v switcher
it seems you have another unrelated issue with either with the genesis ps (too noisy) or the console itself (unknown, old caps dragging down the input voltage far enough to produce an effect?)

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

have you measured the output out of your wall socket? It may be actually be closer to 110v than 120v so even less of an issue if thats the case.

I run Japanese power supplies without much thought. I have never had a problem.

So I picked up a multimeter today, and got a reading of 120.3v out of the wall, and 120.3v out of the power bar. I haven't played the AV Famicom extensively with the Japanese PSU, but initially it seems that the back of the console, as well as the N8 Everdrive feel cooler to the touch than when run with the Genesis AC adapter... strange.

Any final advice folks as to whether I'm safe to use the OEM adapter with my RGB modded AV Famicom, or if I should fix my Genesis PSU?

[brokenhalo]

at my house is actually 121v, but i think some places its closer to 114v. Not much of a difference though, but would be closer to the tolerance limits of the 100v supply.

It depends on how far your house is from the transformer, and what that transformer is feeding. you get voltage drop as you go a longer distance with your wire. So the utility provider might tweak the street transformer higher than usual (125-130v), so that when power reaches the house at the end of the block they are still getting voltage that falls within spec (110v minimum).

Back on topic, since we are talking about alternating current, manufacturers will allow for quite a bit of variance when speccing their parts. You really shouldn't have any issues with your 100v rated items. Just think how many people here are running japanese consoles or candy cabinets in north america, without step down transformers (myself included).

[mvsfan]

someone should really open a famicom adapter and a nes adapter and see if the transformers inside are the same size.

[speedlolita]

Back on topic, since we are talking about alternating current, manufacturers will allow for quite a bit of variance when speccing their parts. You really shouldn't have any issues with your 100v rated items. Just think how many people here are running japanese consoles or candy cabinets in north america, without step down transformers (myself included).

Recall when I owned my Egret 3 it didn't tolerate US voltage, needed 100v to function properly.

I made sure to specifically get a UK (230v) to JP (100v) stepdown from Airlink when I bought a stepdown for my consoles though, just so that I don't have to put up with that excess voltage.

[andy251203]

someone should really open a famicom adapter and a nes adapter and see if the transformers inside are the same size.

The original NES AC adapter outputs AC voltage, whereas the famicom adapter outputs DC. Plugging the NES adapter into a famicom is a bad idea.

[mvsfan]

i already said that in another post. what im saying is that the difference between the two might just be the 4 diodes in the famicom adapter they might have the same transformer anyway.

[brentsg]

I have a couple of stepdown units for JP->US consoles, but I generally just used them with devices that were known to be finicky or prone to failure.