Correct, connect CPU pin 1 to A, and pin 2 to B, and wire O to connections 11 and 12 on the multi-av output.thea3on wrote:The NES I'm using is unmodified (no AV mod done before). As well, I'd like to pass-through audio to etims board, do I simply take wires from pin 1 & 2 of the CPU and move them to pins A & B on etims board, then have it passed out through pin O to the multi-out?
No, the cable should work just fine. You don't need to remove the 220uF caps on the NESRGB RGB output. If you want to bypass the capacitors on the NESRGB RGB lines, just connect from the + side of the capacitors instead of the pads on the edge of the PCB.thea3on wrote:I've read this cable will not work and I'll need one with the caps removed. Is this the case?
If you've recently purchased an NESRGB kit you should be fine to use CS# or PPUV connections for SYNC. Wire either to multi-av pin 3, 7, or 9, depending upon which pin your SNES RGB cable uses for SYNC. Try CS# first, and if you have issues switch to PPUV.thea3on wrote:I also ready funny things about using different pins for sync for rgb to work on the xrgb mini as per GameTechUS videos.
As seen on the previous page:
viletim wrote:If you have version 1 board hardware (marked "NESRGB", bought on April 2014 or earlier) you should use PPUV for sync. This version has a crappy sync separation circuit. All other sync outputs have a bit of noise on them which may upset some digital processors. The PPUV signal, while being the original PPU video output, doesn't cause colour interference problem like the V signal does because it doesn't have any colour in it while the NESRGB board is operating.
If you have later hardware (marked NESRGB12) then all the signals with sync should be fine: PPUV, Y, V, CS#. I generally recommend the Y signal for most setups. The CS# is not really designed to drive a 75 ohm video input, but it should work (as well as any other console at least).