Need some quick advice for a component switcher

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

So, I'm looking to get a top quality component switcher for use with my SCART to Component converter (CVS 287), and my Gamecube component cable (on my Sony Trinitron CRT w/ 1 component input). I bought one off of Monoprice for something like $25-$40, and it has some visible picture degradation.

I heard the Audio Authority Model 1154B recommended here: http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/1154B

That sucker is pricey as hell, regularly retailing above $300 (not to mention shipping to Canada). I have an opportunity to get an Audio Authority Model 1154A (the previous version?), for $50: http://www.audioauthority.com/product_details/1154A1

Feature-wise, it looks quite similar to the newer 1154B, but at a much better price. It usually retails for around $200, but I can snag one used for $50. My question is, does anyone have any experience with this model? I'm interested in a component switcher that has ZERO noticeable audio/visual degradation, that won't cost $300. Ideally, I'd like some quick insight if possible, so that I can jump on that auction before it closes.

[blizzz]

That are some extremely high prices. I've got a HAMA YUV-Selector which showed no picture degradation on my screen or captures. I think it cost me 2€ a couple years ago. There's an auction right now with 0 bids on eBay Germany, no shipping to Canada though.

I'm sure there are some simple mechanical component switches in America too.

[SGGG2]

I use a JVC JXS111 mechanical switch and I haven't noticed any reduction in image quality. I also have an active Psyclone Competition Grade switch but removed it from my set up because it looses sync sometimes when the image is bright white. Sucks cause it supports toslink and ethernet. If anything. the AA unit is probably better than what I'm currently using.

[mickcris]

I have a couple of the AA 1154As and I have never noticed any issues with them.

[evil_ash_xero]

I use these, from Impact Acoustics. It says Cables 2 Go, but it doesn't say it on the box. So, I don't know what's up with that.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S1 ... UTF8&psc=1

They're pretty nifty, as they have 6 component ins, have two outs, and have a remote control.
I have a JVC one, that has manual switches. But they tend to break down, just due to pushing on the switches over time. So, I'm happy to have
remote control ones, that won't have that wear.

Their quality is very nice, and I've noticed no issues with picture or sound. They also have digital audio ins and outs.

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

Thanks for the insight gents, I pulled the trigger on that Audio Authority 1154.

[Josh128]

I have the older 1154 model and aside from losing itself once in a while when auto switching, it is EXCELLENT-- every other component switcher Ive tried introduced some visible interference/jailbar looking stuff, but this one is every bit as good as plugging the system directly into your TV.

I think I paid $80 for mine, used-- I hope you jumped on that $50 deal. You wont be disappointed.

[The_Atomik_Punk!]

I have the older 1154 model and aside from losing itself once in a while when auto switching, it is EXCELLENT-- every other component switcher Ive tried introduced some visible interference/jailbar looking stuff, but this one is every bit as good as plugging the system directly into your TV.

I think I paid $80 for mine, used-- I hope you jumped on that $50 deal. You wont be disappointed.

Awesome man, that's exactly what I was hoping to hear! I did jump on that $50, it's used as well. Now, if I could only get my hands on a Gamecube component cable...

[Laughingman.s9]

I use a JVC JXS111 mechanical switch and I haven't noticed any reduction in image quality. I also have an active Psyclone Competition Grade switch but removed it from my set up because it looses sync sometimes when the image is bright white. Sucks cause it supports toslink and ethernet. If anything. the AA unit is probably better than what I'm currently using.

I think I have the same one you do, I haven't noticed any sync issues however. Did you ever figure out what the ethernet ports are for? I can't understand if it's a switcher or router and if its a router, how the hell does it work?

[SGGG2]

It's just a switch. The ethernet will be active for whatever input is selected.

[Laughingman.s9]

It's just a switch. The ethernet will be active for whatever input is selected.

So is the ethernet port under the video output actually an input?

[SGGG2]

You wire the ethernet "output" to your router as you'd do normally, it bridges the connection with the selected system.