gatsu25 wrote:Can someone recommend to me what wattage of iron is best for the job? Practice makes perfect right?
I don't really know the right wattage or anything... But one of the things you want to see when soldering is good flow:
Bad flow is basically when the solder is hot, but the metal you're soldering to isn't hot - so the hot solder comes in contact with it and freezes. The solder kind of bulges around the metal instead of bonding to it (known as a "cold solder joint")
When everything is properly heated, the solder should flow freely over the metal.
Generally, if the surface of the solder is concave, it's probably flowed well. Your solder joints kind of have a lot of solder on them - which may indicate a cold joint or may just indicate that you used a lot of solder. Fat solder blobs can also make it hard to spot places where you may have bridged adjacent pads. So it might be worth using some desoldering braid, just to reduce the amount of solder on the joints and make sure the joints are good. (Getting electrical continuity is good, but these connections need to carry high-speed digital data... So the demands are a bit higher)
I can't say that I spotted anything wrong with your install, but as I said it may be worth taking some solder off just to check the connections and reduce the chance of a short between adjacent pads.
You might also want to check and see if you get a composite signal from the PPU - that signal will be grayscale if the NESRGB is active, but it'll still produce a picture and indicate that the PPU is doing its thing. I'm guessing it's probably not - otherwise you'd probably have gotten audio from your game or some other sign that the machine was operating...