Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Fudoh]

I couldn't remember any discussion about it. I used the Nomad myself for test runs on about two dozen processors and displays. It's portable and easy to use and Artemio's 240p test suite was released around that time as well.

The nomad does output RGBs without disabling the internal display. You just have to calibrate your readings, since the internal LCD display lags on it's own (about 8ms or so), if you test the Nomad on a classic RGB CRT, the CRT will be faster.

With the Nomad you get a 15khz RGBs or composite signal. So when testing a progressive display (LCD, plasma or a video processor) never forget that you're measuring the whole processing chain. Leo's device on the other hand let's you jump ahead of this. You already get a 720p or 1080p HDMI signal...

[Fudoh]

especially when it comes to testing additional equipment like upscalers

exactly.

The only downside is that the internal display has a high response time, so you end up with a low is "mixed" frames. To get good and reliable readings you have to take a lot of snapshots and average your reading across them (I think I took 2 to 3 dozen readings per device).

[McCracAttack]

It's a matter of adjusting the vertical filter on the VSC700 along with forcing a perfect line mapping on both units.

While in 480i mode, try to adjust the vertical filter. At the max setting it will deliver two identical fields, making the picture look "240p-ish" already (but still 480i). Now add the interface. If you get flicker at this point, try to change the vertical position of the 700's output slightly. At one point it will be perfect.

You also have to make that your input signal into the VSC is 100% linedoubled (if you're using a genuine 240p) source, in other words, if you use an emulator, it MUST output a straight 1:2 resolution (e.g. if your game's running in 224p, the output has to be 448p with black borders). In MAME you have to use DirectDraw instead of D3D to get this.

You also must never use the zoom function on the VSC, otherwise your line mapping will be off again.

Okay, guess I have more fiddling ahead of me. Thank you for the info.

[Sixfortyfive]

I'm running an RGB-modded SNES Mini through the ropes and wanted to get some input on these shots. Does the RGB capture look a little too bright or is this normal for this particular revision of the console?

Composite
S-Video
RGB

[Fudoh]

If the white levels seem closer on your monitor, then it might be a range mismatch in your recording software. Composite and s-video are supposed to have limited luma range, while RGB is supposed to have full range. If you record both signals using the same A/D settings and the same codec, then a difference like that is to be expected.

[Sixfortyfive]

Thanks for the tip, but the RGB shot is even after compensating for that discrepancy. I think there still might be some black/white crush going on.

In any case, I just tried running it through the XRGB-3 first and that seems to pull things down to a more appropriate level. Or at least that seems to be the case at first glance.

(What do we need to do to get Artemio to port his 240p homebrew over to NES/SNES? )

[BuckoA51]

Can anyone confirm these are the correct type of connectors for hooking up analogue audio to Extron devices such as Crosspoint switches and RGB interfaces?

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phoe ... rlH0CBYg==

[Fudoh]

Yes, those are right. You can find those much cheaper though. I think I paid 1,50 EUR each for 15 pcs.

[BuckoA51]

I can't find them much cheaper than that, care to share where you got yours? Might even be worth importing if everywhere in the UK is expensive.

[coffeyrt]

I just tried Strikers 1945 (a PS1 game) on my US NTSC PS2 slim through the RGB Scart cable. Everything is bright green to black, meaning no color other than green and faint red and blue. Tried the same game on my US NTSC playstation 1 and it looks fine so the cable is good. Other games on the PS2 slim have the same color problem. Any ideas on what is causing this? Is the slim PS2 not compatible with RGB Scart? Here is a picture of what I am talking about: http://postimg.org/image/hl4535j7p/

[Sixfortyfive]

I just tried Strikers 1945 (a PS1 game) on my US NTSC PS2 slim through the RGB Scart cable. Everything is bright green to black, meaning no color other than green and faint red and blue. Tried the same game on my US NTSC playstation 1 and it looks fine so the cable is good. Other games on the PS2 slim have the same color problem. Any ideas on what is causing this? Is the slim PS2 not compatible with RGB Scart? Here is a picture of what I am talking about: http://postimg.org/image/hl4535j7p/

Go into the system configuration and change component output to RGB.

[Fudoh]

@BuckoA51: It's been quite some time, but *I think* I got these/here:
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/7298 ... t?ref=list

EDIT: here's the UK store:
http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/e ... archDetail

just compare the specs to the Phoenix versions by yourself to be sure.

[BuckoA51]

Thanks Fudoh much appreciated.

[Artemio]

(What do we need to do to get Artemio to port his 240p homebrew over to NES/SNES? )

Just time an experience for Artemio. =)

[spadgy]

What particular tool (right down to brand/model) do people use to remove their E-rings from the bottom of stick shafts? In my case it's a Seimitsu.

[emphatic]

What particular tool (right down to brand/model) do people use to remove their E-rings from the bottom of stick shafts? In my case it's a Seimitsu.

I bought myself an e-clip tool, but you could just cut that sucker off with a biter, then replace it with one of these: http://www.focusattack.com/replacement- ... for-ls-32/

Here's what the tool looks like: http://www.amazon.com/Snap-Circlip-E-Cl ... B003R6K1BC

[spadgy]

I bought myself an e-clip tool, but you could just cut that sucker off with a biter, then replace it with one of these: http://www.focusattack.com/replacement- ... for-ls-32/

Here's what the tool looks like: http://www.amazon.com/Snap-Circlip-E-Cl ... B003R6K1BC

Right - so that tools works with E-clips and circlips? In the UK I'd seen that style sold just as a circlip remover.

To clarify, looking at this print Seimitsu catalogue that I have:

The LS-32 comes with a circlip.

The LS-56 that I have in my VSHGs comes with an E-clip (exactly the same fastener you link to as a replacement on focus attack).

In fact, to simplify what I'm after... Emphatic; does that tool you link to also function to remove the E-clip you've linked to as a replacement?

And thanks for your help so far!

[emphatic]

In fact, to simplify what I'm after... Emphatic; does that tool you link to also function to remove the E-clip you've linked to as a replacement?

With the E-clip, you can just use a small head screwdriver. Insert the tip into the open space and turn it and the clip will come off cleanly. To put it back, push it on with your thumb and put something hard between your thumb and the clip to secure it, or your thumb will be sore.

I bought the tool because I found it locally in a shop. Then I stopped buying the LS-32, so I have no other use for the tool anymore. So in conclusion, I can't recommend you spend money on the tool when the LS-32 will function perfectly fine with a E-clip that's easy to remove/put back with your run of the mill household tools.

[spadgy]

With the E-clip, you can just use a small head screwdriver. Insert the tip into the open space and turn it and the clip will come off cleanly. To put it back, push it on with your thumb and put something hard between your thumb and the clip to secure it, or your thumb will be sore.

Sounds like you only need the tool for circlips (as seen with the out-of-the-box LS-32) and not with an E-clip (AKA E-ring) then. I'd tried with the screwdriver, but not got it off yet. I'll try again. Are you talking a flat-head screw driver, rather than a cross-head (AKA a 'philips') screwdriver?

[emphatic]

Are you talking a flat-head screw driver, rather than a cross-head (AKA a 'philips') screwdriver?

Flat, yep: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOuDvnan77A

[beatsgo]

Small flat pliers should work for E-ring as well if you opt this route. Just grip the flat surface with it and pull.

[spadgy]

I did it! Turns out in my case hooking a tiny screwdriver in the gripping holes where proper E-clip pliers attach was enough to prize in loose. Time to... er... think of a way to describe greasing my stick's shaft that isn't too easy an innuendo.

Thanks guys...

[HDgaming42]

Perhaps an oddball question but this would be the place to ask!

Has anyone attempted, or seen a product that allows for the use of a flat-panel with a CRT behind it?

What I'm getting at is my plasma would be up front, but would be able to be raised up 25" to reveal the Sony PVM sitting behind it. Bonus points if the PVM could slide forward a foot.

edit: There are solutions out there, but they all seem to require a piston of some sort in the middle of the screen--which of course would obscure the PVM. I'd need something that could lift from the two sides simultaneously. Doesn't have to be automated--this could be a pure brute force, raise-it-yourself DIY, which isn't really coming up in google searches...

Sometimes you don't realize things won't work until you try them out. I had build a little retro-gaming shrine off the side of my "theater room", and not only does it mess with the theater acoustics, it now messes with the second row of seating.

Really, I'm trying to cram too much into a small room (11' x 16') and need to send it all up front. Side-station ain't gonna work.

I'm assuming I'm going to have to build the entertainment stand to house all this stuff. It will have to be 6' wide, and 2' deep to accommodate both a PVM and a 4' thick plasma in front of it (probably more with a wall mount/hoist device attached).

Am I treading new water here? Anyone tried this at home? Suggestions on materials I could use / methods to raise the plasma?

[BuckoA51]

This is something I've thought about doing too. Something like what these guys offer http://www.tv-lifts.co.uk/showroom.asp would suit your needs I think.

[hector]

Im using the D-SUB15 output on the Sync Strike to take my RGB video to the sc-500n1. This works fine, but I want to use the screw terminals on the sync strike to output R, G, B, and Csync to my Sony PVM, so I won't need a scart splitter. Will a BNC -> screw terminal connector like this one work for this?

http://www.mpja.com/BNC-Male-to-Screw-T ... 9456%20PL/

[BlackStealth08]

I don't want to mod my consoles to output RGB. So where can I buy a Component to RGB converter?

[Fudoh]

Which 15khz-only system does output component but not RGB ?

[BlackStealth08]

Which 15khz-only system does output component but not RGB ?

I honestly don't know. I just want to play my snes, genesis, 3DO, etc. in RGB without modding them for the signal.

Is there a list of what retro consoles output RGB?

[Fudoh]

Most do.

SEGA: Master System, Genesis, Saturn: all RGB
NINTENDO: SNES: RGB; NES: Composite; N64: S-video
SONY: all RGB
3DO: S-video.

What other systems do you want to know ?

[BlackStealth08]

Most do.

SEGA: Master System, Genesis, Saturn: all RGB
NINTENDO: SNES: RGB; NES: Composite; N64: S-video
SONY: all RGB
3DO: S-video.

What other systems do you want to know ?

Okay. Well say I have a console that is out putting RGB signal.

Would using this cable
http://www.retrogamingcables.com/sony-p ... r-bnc.html

With this adaptor
http://www.miniinthebox.com/scart-21-pi ... Ogod1SwAdA

allow my 15khz PVM monitor to display in RGB? Sorry I am not too keen on this topic.

I only have Component A/V cables for these consoles and don't want to buy a RGB cable for every console.