*edit*
i need to discharge my arcade monitor, i know it's a simple thing to do, just wondering if anyone has any comments
also, i'm wondering, since an aero city is all metal construction, does that mean the monitor's frame is making contact with the cabinet, basically sending the monitor's charge from the screwdriver through jumper wire, into the frame and throughout the cabinet?
should I remove the monitor to discharge it? I'm kind of worried.
anyone have monitor discharge stories or horror stories?
anyone have monitor discharge stories or horror stories?
Last edited by kemical on Tue Nov 29, 2005 2:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: anyone have monitor discharge stories or horror stories?
It probably doesn't matter. Just disconnect any PCBs before you do it.kemical wrote:*edit*
i need to discharge my arcade monitor, i know it's a simple thing to do, just wondering if anyone has any comments
also, i'm wondering, since an aero city is all metal construction, does that mean the monitor's frame is making contact with the cabinet, basically sending the monitor's charge from the screwdriver through jumper wire, into the frame and throughout the cabinet?
should I remove the monitor to discharge it? I'm kind of worried.
And no, there's no need to remove the monitor to discharge it.
Also, are you SURE you need to discharge it? You'd be surprised how linfrequently monitor techs actually discharge.
Re: anyone have monitor discharge stories or horror stories?
well, better to be safe than sorry i guess some monitors discharge themselves i think. I'm going to have to pop off the anode to get the pcb chassis out.. so i don't want to take risks.zakk wrote: Also, are you SURE you need to discharge it? You'd be surprised how linfrequently monitor techs actually discharge.
I just took a better look at how the monitor is mounted and it is sitting on rubber or plastic washers, so the monitor frame doesn't make contact with the rest of the cabinet. so i feel safe about that now.
I was just working on a project monitor this week (swapping PCBs) and had to discharge it. I used one of my multimeter test leads with a heavy gague algator clip wire secured to the frame. With one hand behind my back, other hand holding the lead, slide the lead under the cap to touch the anode. 4 out of 5 times nothing happens if the monitor has been off for several hours (most modern monitors bleed off the excess charge when off), otherwise you will hear a small snap as it discharges.
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stellarola
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:30 am
- Location: Lexington, KY
How could you tell which capacitor needed to be changed? I'm just curious, because I'm about to change some caps on one of my monitors.kemical wrote: ok I discharged the monitor (I think it discharged itself from being powered off).. fixed the problem also, now it is working again! There was just 1 little capacitor that needed changing..
-Ben
When caps start to die, they often buldge at the top end. Sometimes they'll even break open, and start leaking the electrolytic goo inside (usually a horrible yellow-brown "baby-poo" colour).stellarola wrote: How could you tell which capacitor needed to be changed? I'm just curious, because I'm about to change some caps on one of my monitors.
If you do work on a chassis for any reason, always take an extra 10 minutes or so to scan the board very closely for bulging caps. And if you replace them, make sure you use good quality ones that are rated at higher temperature levels. They only cost a few cents more than the cheapy ones, but are well worth it.
Heat and stress are the two biggest killers of caps, so if you find you're replacing them often, look for signs that some other part of the pcb is not working as it should, and consider adding some fan-forced cooling to your cab.
Be careful when replacing the really big caps on your chassis! My Kortek chassis has on big one near the mains power input. This filters the input voltage, and can often contain lethal charges even for hours/days after power off. If you do replace this guy, make sure you discharge it properly before touching it.
BadCaps.net is a good resource to help you locate bad caps, and what the best way to replace them is:
http://www.badcaps.net/
And if possible, try to have someone with you who knows what they are doing for at least the first time you play with replacing caps (or discharging monitors too). Preferably someone with much experience who's done it at least a few times before.
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stellarola
- Posts: 62
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 3:30 am
- Location: Lexington, KY
Thanks for the link Elvis. I had an extra monitor lying around that needs a new flyback, so I successfully discharged it. I used a flat head screw driver with a double sided alligator clip wire. One side of the wire attached to the flathead, the other to the monitors metal frame. I read somewhere that it's a good idea to ground out the anode, by instead of grounding to the metal frame, to ground to an electrical outlet. Here's the link http://todd1814.www3.50megs.com/capkit/capkit.htm.
I plan on replacing the caps in the monitor in my Neo29. I belive it's like a Hitachi. BTW, if anyone knows which caps think monitor needs in the Neo29, lemme know.
I plan on replacing the caps in the monitor in my Neo29. I belive it's like a Hitachi. BTW, if anyone knows which caps think monitor needs in the Neo29, lemme know.