NESRGB board available now

[CkRtech]

ApolloBoy - Didn't you say something earlier in this thread regarding noisy video output due to the extra voltage regulator on a front loader NES? What was your solution for that? Gametech mentioned doing a front loader with new caps and a 1.5A 7805 - with thermal camera confirming that it was just fine.

I am finally getting around to drilling the holes in my case and closing up my front loader. The last time I ran it though, I could still see a bit of noise in the video. It could have just been from all of the wires hanging out the side of the case and picking up some surrounding EMI, but I am using that extra voltage regulator and am trying to determine if I need to push further with the power needs before closing up.

[ApolloBoy]

ApolloBoy - Didn't you say something earlier in this thread regarding noisy video output due to the extra voltage regulator on a front loader NES? What was your solution for that?

That wasn't on a front loader, it was on an AV Famicom that I did for blackoak here. Actually the problem turned out to be the aftermarket charger I was using for my MacBook, it was dying and putting out a ton of interference which caused that issue. I wound up adding some thermal compound to the original 7805 and it didn't get any hotter than normal.

[Ed Oscuro]

Actually the problem turned out to be the aftermarket charger I was using for my MacBook, it was dying and putting out a ton of interference which caused that issue.

Those crap designed-in-China chargers for Apple products can put out a ton of EMI even when they're brand new.

[mvsfan]

I just thought of another use for an on on on switch.

You could use it to switch between the 3 different sync's available on the nesrgb - PPUV, V, And CS. It may come in handy on a system where you dont really know what sync their setup will want, or if you plan on moving the system around a lot.

[CkRtech]

Ugh. I am never going to complete this project. Had a bit of superglue leak into the 8 pin mini din connector. Had no idea it had happened until I check to see if it had dried. I got that salvaged....somewhat.

I still get some noise in the video that I was getting with the components just hanging over the side instead of mounted on the back of the NES. Had this same problem when testing. Upgrading to what should be a higher quality cable seems to have helped but not eliminated that problem. Output to the Framemeister is all I have available for testing.

At this point, I am probably going to have to replace the mini din connector anyway as the glue has probably set in the cylinder inside the plug (therefore making it impossible to *completely* push a plug all the way in).

I am up for suggestions for eliminating video noise. I just really don't have an answer for it - I just want a clean picture.

Front loader with aux voltage regulator from kit, 8 pin mini din output to 1.07A Framemeister.

[ApolloBoy]

Ugh. I am never going to complete this project. Had a bit of superglue leak into the 8 pin mini din connector. Had no idea it had happened until I check to see if it had dried. I got that salvaged....somewhat.

Why not just use a proper panel mount connector? One of the local electronics shops I go to has proper panel mount 8-pin mini-DIN connectors that use a nut for securing it to the case, no glue needed.

[CkRtech]

Funny enough, I had one sitting around that I was going to use for my supergun...but elected to use the included one since "all I had to do" was glue it. I'll probably swap it for the panel mount. The desoldering process and removal of the now glued old connector is going to suck.

Any ideas on video noise/interference?

[game-tech.us]

Funny enough, I had one sitting around that I was going to use for my supergun...but elected to use the included one since "all I had to do" was glue it. I'll probably swap it for the panel mount. The desoldering process and removal of the now glued old connector is going to suck.

Any ideas on video noise/interference?

Use a good power supply, cheap chinese switching types give me problems.
Get rid of the aux voltage regulator, most agree it's not needed and had been known to cause noise.

[CkRtech]

Use a good power supply, cheap chinese switching types give me problems.
Get rid of the aux voltage regulator, most agree it's not needed and had been known to cause noise.

Thank you. Using original NES AC adapter. I was thinking about pulling the voltage regulator, but I have a front loader and do not have a replacement 1.5 amp 7805.

Hmm. Although I do have Arctic Silver and a Radio Shack 7805 heat sink if that is enough (or even needed at all)

[ApolloBoy]

Thank you. Using original NES AC adapter. I was thinking about pulling the voltage regulator, but I have a front loader and do not have a replacement 1.5 amp 7805.

I think just adding new thermal compound would be enough. I've used Arctic Silver on 7805s before and it works very well.

[TheRetromancer]

I think just adding new thermal compound would be enough. I've used Arctic Silver on 7805s before and it works very well.

Agreed. A word of advice to those who go this route - use just a dab of Silver. Not only is it fairly expensive for the amount you get, but too much thermal compound between a component and a heatsink will actually reduce its conductive abilities.

I'm actually contemplating throwing a BA7230LS-based circuit in my modded AV Fami, drawing off of the CS#, +5v, and RGB lines. My main setup uses the straight RGB out, and it's GLORIOUS, but my old Samsung 32" CRT that I use for my workstation test-TV doesn't accept RGB, and though I previously stated my dislike for scanlines, I have since had my mind rather abruptly changed.

Megaman VII has never looked so goddamn brilliant as on my Component-modded SNESes.

[jepjepjep]

I just got my NESRGB installed and I get a really wavy picture. Here's a short video that shows what I'm talking about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Nt7US9UJ0Q

Just to follow up, it seems the clone PPU was the likely culprit. I put in a replacement Nintendo PPU and it's nice and stable.

[keropi]

^ sometimes I get smaller waves with my famicomAV via a framemeister, haven't checked with a direct tv connection... I always thought it was because of the upscaling or something... my ppu is a nintendo one, maybe something else is to blame here

[Voultar]

I had an extra 4 position slide switch laying around, so I thought I would play around with various mounting points. As a result, I believe I've found an excellent way to conceal/mount the old girl in the Toaster.
(Note the fact that this switch is no longer provided in NESRGB kits)


A functional, easy to access area on the front-loader.





Wire management is a breeze in this location, too.



And later, fully assembled. A nice commission piece.

[darcagn]

Nice, I'm guessing that's a multi-out connector from an SNES, N64, or GC? I have several of the 3D-printed ones from Helder/BuffaloWing, but they don't fit in that space without modification.

[Voultar]

Nice, I'm guessing that's a multi-out connector from an SNES, N64, or GC? I have several of the 3D-printed ones from Helder/BuffaloWing, but they don't fit in that space without modification.

I believe that particular Multi-Out came from an N64 that was literally ran over by a car. (Don't ask, it was part of an untested lot)

[opt2not]

Nice job Voultar. I like where you placed the switch and multiAV port.
I especially appreciate the shot of all your nice toys too! You're rocking all the good tools.

[leonk]

Voultar: For the love of god, I hope you fixed your 858D before you plugged it in!!!!!

I took mine apart when I got it from China, and found the following issues which cost me about 12$ in parts to fix:

- ON/OFF switch was switching the NEUTRAL line rather than HOT! (i.e. when off, the entire PCB was hot and you would be the new neutral line if something went wrong!!)
- the electric cord was of very poor quality - they actually had neutral/hot colours backward in wire!
- Chassis, case, and wand were NOT grounded. I had to grind pain away and fix grounding issues
- fan inside wand was barely connected (only 2 thin wires of the multistrand wire were connected!)
- cold solder balls on PCB in multiple location
- solder balls loose on PCB fusing multiple line traces!!!
- other issues I forgot .. there's a long thread on EEVBLOG on how dangerous these things are if not fixed!!!

Don't ever plug direct purchase from China electronics w/o tracing them first. These devices do not go through your local country quality and safety controls. You can/will burn your house down due to poor manufacturing and no accountability by seller to you.

You get what you pay for.

[Voultar]

Oh, I know all about that. Haha haha! Those issues were all addressed on day 1. Fortunately, this $20 unit was assembled correctly from the assembly line.

It's actually a fairly decent hot air unit; Adequate air volume, and the temperature was calibrated almost right on mark, out of the box.

[TheRetromancer]

My hot air unit is an X-Tronic 9020-XTS station, which is also my main soldering station as well as the hot air/vacuum pump station. It's cheap, but very, very solid. I haven't had a single problem (well, aside from the absolutely hilarious Engrish manual - seriously, it's so badly translated that it's completely USELESS!) with it in the past three years, and I've used it an average of five hours a day. It heats up very quickly, cools down EXTREMELY quickly, has an adjustable 'sleep' mode which is very nice, and is fairly low-profile. It also comes with a shit-ton of accessories - a full set of soldering tips, heat gun tips, etc.

It might not be the cream of the crop, but it's a very good cost-effective solution.

[lettuce]

I had an extra 4 position slide switch laying around, so I thought I would play around with various mounting points. As a result, I believe I've found an excellent way to conceal/mount the old girl in the Toaster.
(Note the fact that this switch is no longer provided in NESRGB kits)

Thats a nice snug fit for the a/v port. What did you use to cut the plastic?

[Voultar]

Thats a nice snug fit for the a/v port. What did you use to cut the plastic?

I use a small cutting disc in my Dremel to score the plastic well within the inner boundaries of the Multi-Out. I then switch to a flat file to level everything off as accurately as I can by eye.

The Dremel just takes care of most of the excess material. 80% of the job comes down to the file. You could easily use a drill bit to hull out most of the inner material, the Dremel is just faster for me.

[leonk]

Amazing..

I have a Dremel.. and hate it. Outside of small plastic jobs (like this one) it's totally worthless. The bits/wheels/adapters are expensive, burn out easily, and has no torque.

Now my B&D grinder on the other hand...

[TheRetromancer]

Amazing..

I have a Dremel.. and hate it. Outside of small plastic jobs (like this one) it's totally worthless. The bits/wheels/adapters are expensive, burn out easily, and has no torque.

Now my B&D grinder on the other hand...

I have some Menard's no-name rotary tool. I had the same problems with the Dremel stuff, sold it, and picked up my current tool for about half the cost. It works a hundred times better, and not only that, it actually feels a lot more solid and powerful.

[Voultar]

I love my 4200. It sees a lot of commercial use on a weekly basis and has yet to fail me. This unit certainly doesn't have a problem with low torque with its 1.6A motor. Not to mention that the EZ Quick-Change system makes changing accessories a 3 second process. No collet nut, and no wrenches. (Unless you want to use a smaller shank)

EDIT:

Something a little more relative to the thread. Has anyone encountered an issue with diagonal lines plaguing solid colors when using S-Video? My RGB setup isn't complete yet, so S-Video is my current way to go. There is nothing wrong with the picture, only these forsaken lines! Official power adapters are being used, I've wired in both a Multi-Out with true S-Video cables and a standard DIN S-Video port and coupled with a high quality S-Video cable. Multiple televisions have been tested, and it's a problem that's consistent with all of the NESRGB mods that I've installed.

The NESRGB is pulling power from the 5v rail on the PPU. And I've reviewed the datasheet of the encoder Tim selected to use. I'm not very familiar with the bh7236af, but it seems like your everyday standard encoder, with your everyday standard application circuit.

This is a close up of some good 'ole blocks in Castlevania III. I have screen grabs from other CRT TV's but there's no sense in uploading them all if the same effect is consistent across the board.

[CkRtech]

That is one of two interference options I am experiencing right now via RGB. Diagonal lines (moving) and some horizontal "yarn-like" lines at various locations down the screen.

Am probably going to replace the external cable (again) for something even higher in quality, but I am first trying to remove the superglue holding in my 8 pin mini din connector so I can swap it out. (arg)

[mvsfan]

are you using composite video as your sync? try the CS pad instead.

[lettuce]

are you using composite video as your sync? try the CS pad instead.

Is CS regarded to be better then?

[TheRetromancer]

are you using composite video as your sync? try the CS pad instead.

Is CS regarded to be better then?

The reason that CS is more desirable than straight composite video is because when you draw straight sync, there's no additional video information introduced to the signal. A good example of the downsides of composite video in an RGB signal is what happens if you RGB-mod an N64 without pulling the ol' Slicey MacDicey on the composite video line - epic crosshatching. In fact, in N64s, using the composite video line for sync causes such bad crosshatching that it renders games like Ocarina of Time and Majora's Mask almost totally unplayable - it's that awful.

On the other hand, using straight sync means that none of that sort of interference is present. Depending on the size and type of your TV, this may or may not make a difference. If you're playing on an old 22" Samsung CRT, you probably wouldn't have much problem with using the composite video for sync. If, however, your gaming TV of choice is 70" Samsung HDTV...well, it's one of those 'can't unsee' sort of situations. You're gonna notice it.

[RGB32E]

are you using composite video as your sync? try the CS pad instead.

Is CS regarded to be better then?

CS# is just PPUV through an EL1881 as Tim mentioned earlier in this thread. Unfortunately the XRGB-mini doesn't work well with CS# on the second batch of kits, so PPUV is actually best. Using luma (Y) for sync causes other problems.

If you're using an unshielded cable, then sure, you'll likely get artifacts when using composite video as sync!