NESRGB board available now

[ApolloBoy]

My kit didn't come with a voltage regulator. I'm not sure if it was supposed to. Will this voltage regulator work: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/2053106 ? Will I need a heat sink attached and if so how would I go about creating this?

You really don't need one, if you're installing it on an AV Fami or top loader the original 7805 and heat sink will suffice. For the front loader I'd recommend adding thermal compound to the 7805 just in case.

[sazyario]

My kit didn't come with a voltage regulator. I'm not sure if it was supposed to. Will this voltage regulator work: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/2053106 ? Will I need a heat sink attached and if so how would I go about creating this?

These are what I use to replace 7805 regulators in my systems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H7KTRO6

The one you selected is a surface mount. Won't work in our application.

Personally I suggest replacing it even if yours is working fine.
These things are 15+ years old. They fail. Why not replace it while you're already in there.

[leonk]

My kit didn't come with a voltage regulator. I'm not sure if it was supposed to. Will this voltage regulator work: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/2053106 ? Will I need a heat sink attached and if so how would I go about creating this?

These are what I use to replace 7805 regulators in my systems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H7KTRO6

The one you selected is a surface mount. Won't work in our application.

Personally I suggest replacing it even if yours is working fine.
These things are 15+ years old. They fail. Why not replace it while you're already in there.

Voltage regulators aren't like capacitors. They don't usually fail. One can go any replace every none custom component on the board but it doesn't mean they should.

I have vintage TVs from the early 1950s that still work fine after replacing only the caps and a couple resistors (yes, they fail sometimes too after 60+ years). The other components are all fine after this much time (and TV chassis have much higher voltage in most paths than an nes)

[Ed Oscuro]

Kind of OT, but I think those paper caps in old TVs are pretty much guaranteed to fail, and turning one on without replacing them might end up damaging other stuff.

Beyond that, don't see any reason why changing out the voltage regulator with an equivalent is a bad idea here. The newer model should introduce less noise, as well (though I wasn't yet successful at pulling up a datasheet for the original part for a comparison).

That being said, "if it ain't broke" is probably a splendid repair principle for things that aren't caps.

[mvsfan]

i have an old fender amp from 1963 and it still works perfect nothings ever been done to it except replacing tubes.

it kinda makes me wonder though exactly how long vintage parts were supposed to last.

back on topic - i got my toploader done and the multi out hooked up but i dont get any sound out of it i think something may be bridged.


FIXED - when i wiggle the cable in the multi-out the sound cuts in and out. I have a bad audio connection on the multi out.

[Pasky]

My kit didn't come with a voltage regulator. I'm not sure if it was supposed to. Will this voltage regulator work: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/2053106 ? Will I need a heat sink attached and if so how would I go about creating this?

These are what I use to replace 7805 regulators in my systems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H7KTRO6

The one you selected is a surface mount. Won't work in our application.

Personally I suggest replacing it even if yours is working fine.
These things are 15+ years old. They fail. Why not replace it while you're already in there.

Voltage regulators aren't like capacitors. They don't usually fail. One can go any replace every none custom component on the board but it doesn't mean they should.

I have vintage TVs from the early 1950s that still work fine after replacing only the caps and a couple resistors (yes, they fail sometimes too after 60+ years). The other components are all fine after this much time (and TV chassis have much higher voltage in most paths than an nes)

People generally replace the NES 7805 because the original is only rated to 1.0A. They install a 1.5A as a precaution. Not that what you're saying is wrong.

[leonk]

People generally replace the NES 7805 because the original is only rated to 1.0A. They install a 1.5A as a precaution. Not that what you're saying is wrong.

Oh, I understand that, and more power to them. But keep the following in mind:

1) you never get close to 1A (even with a power hungry device like powerpak/everdrive being used)
2) 1A is a conservative value. They probably can take as much as 1.2-1.3A before burning out.
3) I would trust the made-in-japan 1A regulator in the NES over the 1.5A made-in-china regulator people are buying now. I have a gut feel that the made-in-japan regulator can run at 1A for extended period of time, while the china part can do so only for short bursts.

[mrkotfw]

when using a desoldering tool like the Hakko 808, has anyone had trouble with pins with solder that just won't come off?

I tried adding solder and nothing happens.

[Zer0-2k11]

when using a desoldering tool like the Hakko 808, has anyone had trouble with pins with solder that just won't come off?

I tried adding solder and nothing happens.

Sounds like the pins are connected to some sort of a copper plane. What i would try to do is apply flux each side of the board where the pins are connected and set to have the heat half way between 3.5 and 4 (About 350 Celsius - 675 Fahrenheit). Apply heat for about 6 seconds then pull the trigger. When you pull the trigger, wiggle the pin while pulling the trigger.

If it doesn't work, make sure your using the right tip.

[mrkotfw]

when using a desoldering tool like the Hakko 808, has anyone had trouble with pins with solder that just won't come off?

I tried adding solder and nothing happens.

Sounds like the pins are connected to some sort of a copper plane. What i would try to do is apply flux each side of the board where the pins are connected and set to have the heat half way between 3.5 and 4 (About 350 Celsius - 675 Fahrenheit). Apply heat for about 6 seconds then pull the trigger. When you pull the trigger, wiggle the pin while pulling the trigger.

If it doesn't work, make sure your using the right tip.

I'll try that.

About the tip... the smaller, the better? What is the measurement that I should use?

[ApolloBoy]

1) you never get close to 1A (even with a power hungry device like powerpak/everdrive being used)

IIRC, Jason did a power draw test on a top loader with the NESRGB and Everdrive and it never drew more than 700 mA. The only thing I did on my top loader install for the regulator was add some thermal compound to the 7805, and it doesn't get any hotter than normal.

[Zer0-2k11]

when using a desoldering tool like the Hakko 808, has anyone had trouble with pins with solder that just won't come off?

I tried adding solder and nothing happens.

Sounds like the pins are connected to some sort of a copper plane. What i would try to do is apply flux each side of the board where the pins are connected and set to have the heat half way between 3.5 and 4 (About 350 Celsius - 675 Fahrenheit). Apply heat for about 6 seconds then pull the trigger. When you pull the trigger, wiggle the pin while pulling the trigger.

If it doesn't work, make sure your using the right tip.

About the tip... the smaller, the better? What is the measurement that I should use?

I would say smaller the better. When i got my 808 kit, it came with 3 different tips. Without attaching the tips to the gun, try fitting the tip over the pin your trying to desolder and use the smallest tip that would fit over the pin. Also when you wiggle the pin while having the trigger pulled, try hovering a bit over the through hole pad when pulling the trigger but still trying to make a bit of contact.

Another thing to try is applying solder to the pad while heating up the pad with the 808 so it creates a better heat transfer (or heat bridge) for about 6 seconds then pull the trigger and wiggle the pin like said above.

[mrkotfw]

Thanks for all your help.

Could you see if you can give me a link to where you bought the Hakko 808? Or better yet, could you see if there is a part number on the nozzle that you used?


These 3-5 pins were right below the CIC... they gave me a ridiculous amount of trouble!

[Zer0-2k11]

Thanks for all your help.

Could you see if you can give me a link to where you bought the Hakko 808? Or better yet, could you see if there is a part number on the nozzle that you used?


These 3-5 pins were right below the CIC... they gave me a ridiculous amount of trouble!

You're welcome .

For part number, it's been a while and don't remember. I was working on something different though (Wasn't a NES) .

My 808 broke after about 3 or 4 uses so im giving the Aoyue 474A++ a shot while i send mine into Hakko. I probably just got a bad lemon. I got mine from eBay seller: Niosales

Link to the listing i bought it from:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-808-KIT-P ... 58abf183dc

1) you never get close to 1A (even with a power hungry device like powerpak/everdrive being used)

IIRC, Jason did a power draw test on a top loader with the NESRGB and Everdrive and it never drew more than 700 mA. The only thing I did on my top loader install for the regulator was add some thermal compound to the 7805, and it doesn't get any hotter than normal.

I would still throw in the 1.5A just to be on the safe side, its only a dollar and about 5-10 minutes of your time.

[ApolloBoy]

I would still throw in the 1.5A just to be on the safe side, its only a dollar and about 5-10 minutes of your time.

And that 5-10 minutes could be spent on something else IMO.

[coffeyrt]

Thanks for all the feedback about the voltage regulator guys. I do have the front loader. On Tim's website, he shows an additional voltage regulator installed to run just the board so that the original doesn't overheat. Not a complete replacement of the original voltage regulator... or at least that is how I understand it. But from what I am gathering from all the feedback is that it doesn't draw enough amperage to burn out the original, even on the front loader with the additional board... and even if it does burn it out, it would be a very easy replacement. Am I correct on that? And thanks again. This is my first install.

[sazyario]

I'm looking at the Aoyue 701a++ now

For what the 474a costs might as well get a dual purpose unit.

Upon research these are clones of older Halko products. The replacement parts for the Hakko equivalents fit these fine.

[lettuce]

Can a PPU chip from a PAL NES be used in an NTSC NES?

Have gotten a cheap NTSC NES, but i believe the PPU chip is buggered, can i use a PPU chip from a PAL console on this NTSC console?

[Fudoh]

No, a PAL PPU can't be used on a 60Hz NTSC board. That's basically why 50/60Hz mods have never been available for the NES.

[lettuce]

No, a PAL PPU can't be used on a 60Hz NTSC board. That's basically why 50/60Hz mods have never been available for the NES.

Hmm on further testing maybe its not the PPU chip, as i have removed the jumper from pin 3 and GND (on the pallet switch pads) and have connected a yellow phono video cable to the video connection on the side of the NES and then connected that up to my XRGB Mini and im getting a display now.

I am using Helder & buffalowing's multi out connecter, do i need a specially made up scart cable?, as i have have tried both my N64 and SNES cables (i think these are RAW sync cables) and im not getting a picture at all. I have noticing that the input light on my XRGB Mini doesnt appear to light up when im using this connection so maybe the scart cable is the source of the problem?

[Zets13]

The multi out is the same for all those. Have you made sure you wired up the NESRGB to it correctly?

[lettuce]

The multi out is the same for all those. Have you made sure you wired up the NESRGB to it correctly?

Yeah its working now, i just need to bridge pin 5-6 (ground).

All thing is now that none of the Controller ports work at all. I could understand if 1 port didnt work and could put that down to a dry solder point or broken wire but for both of them not to work seems a tad odd, i have tried the pad in the another NES console and it works fine so the pad isnt the problem.

Any ideas what could cause such an issue??....does the PPU chip in the NES have anything to do with the pad ports at all??

[sazyario]

The multi out is the same for all those. Have you made sure you wired up the NESRGB to it correctly?

Yeah its working now, i just need to bridge pin 5-6 (ground).

All thing is now that none of the Controller ports work at all. I could understand if 1 port didnt work and could put that down to a dry solder point or broken wire but for both of them not to work seems a tad odd, i have tried the pad in the another NES console and it works fine so the pad isnt the problem.

Any ideas what could cause such an issue??....does the PPU chip in the NES have anything to do with the pad ports at all??

In my experience if one controller poet has a bad solder connection both players can feel it.
Just reflow the solder on the controller ports and you'll be fine. Add a bit of fresh too. Or you could do what I accidentally did and take audio from the wrong pins. That made me have controller issues.

[lettuce]

The multi out is the same for all those. Have you made sure you wired up the NESRGB to it correctly?

Yeah its working now, i just need to bridge pin 5-6 (ground).

All thing is now that none of the Controller ports work at all. I could understand if 1 port didnt work and could put that down to a dry solder point or broken wire but for both of them not to work seems a tad odd, i have tried the pad in the another NES console and it works fine so the pad isnt the problem.

Any ideas what could cause such an issue??....does the PPU chip in the NES have anything to do with the pad ports at all??

In my experience if one controller poet has a bad solder connection both players can feel it.
Just reflow the solder on the controller ports and you'll be fine. Add a bit of fresh too. Or you could do what I accidentally did and take audio from the wrong pins. That made me have controller issues.

Hmm, i believe i have taken audio for the correct place, the 2 resistors just below left of the CPU chip??...



So if port 1 has a bad solder then it effect port 2 also??

[lettuce]

Tried the pad ports with a Multimeter, place one prong in each of the 7 holes in the pad port and lest the end of the ribbon cable and got a reading on each pin, so i dont think its the ribbon cable from the pad ports to the main pcb

[mvsfan]

Tried the pad ports with a Multimeter, place one prong in each of the 7 holes in the pad port and lest the end of the ribbon cable and got a reading on each pin, so i dont think its the ribbon cable from the pad ports to the main pcb

Theres really no reason to use V for your sync. I would use the CS pad. with a lot of equipment it will give you a better picture.

[ApolloBoy]

Why do you have three cut-off wires in the middle of your wire bundle?

[leonk]

Why do you have three cut-off wires in the middle of your wire bundle?

I would have ran the wires in such a way that it doesn't block the JTAG port for the FPGA blaster. The wires also run right over the RGB caps that people typically remove. Would be hard to do it after the fact due to the wires.

You do have a nice sharp camera that focuses well in macro mode.

[Konsolkongen]

My 808 broke after about 3 or 4 uses so im giving the Aoyue 474A++ a shot while i send mine into Hakko. I probably just got a bad lemon.

Sorry to hear about your Hakko. I have no experience with one myself, but I just bought an Aoyue 701A++ soldering station with desoldering gun, which works really well. As said, I have nothing to compare it against, but it's better than a manuel solder sucker, thats for sure

I bought it from here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AOYUE-701A-SM ... 53f80eb7d0

Potential buyers should look for soldering tips elsewhere as they are crazy expensive from that store :/

[game-tech.us]

I don't know why I keep forgetting to tell everyone about this tip, but here it is better late than never.
On the av fami, if you are stereo modding or using the nesrgb audio amp you will be bypassing the 2 1uF caps for audio, so removing them is a good idea. The 220uF cap that has to be bent down just to get the nesrgb board to fit may as well be removed also. It's just a cap on the original composite video output anyway, and this is rarely used ever again since the trace to the multi is usually cut to use the nesrgb's better composite signal.
I remove them so I never have to worry about them ever leaking on to the pcb. They can be easily replaced in the future if the mod is removed.