Elrinth wrote:I have also made sure the DP0-7 and EXT1-4 pins from nesrgb board doesn't connect to the main board respective pins (the pins seen here: http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p55/ ... 28b1b7.jpg).
If you desoldor/solder many times cuz the pin would not get loose it is likely you'll end up destroying something... In this case, I destroyed the pad circles on those pins. Yes I have fixed continuity again.This does not sound good. How did this happen, too much heat? Im guessing you have continuity again since you posted the pin-check spreadsheet. Still, it may be related if the PPU got too hot in that area.During desoldering of PPU the pin padcircle on 13 and 14 were destroyed on the bottom of the board, I would like to know where they go on a sharp twin famicom.
Here's how different it is:Pasky wrote:On a regular NES:
PPU pin 13 goes to pin 4 on the cartridge connecter (PRG A9) and pin 22 on the video sram.
PPU pin 14 goes to pin 3 on the cartridge connecter (PRG A10) and pin 19 on the video sram.
No idea how different a twin famicom is.
BuckoA51 wrote:So have Analogue Interactive licensed this board from you Tim? http://www.analogueinteractive.com/inde ... nalogue-nt
It's exactly the same, I'm a moron and read the schematic wrong and was looking at the cpu pins =/. I was using that exact schematic.Elrinth wrote:Here's how different it is:Pasky wrote:On a regular NES:
PPU pin 13 goes to pin 4 on the cartridge connecter (PRG A9) and pin 22 on the video sram.
PPU pin 14 goes to pin 3 on the cartridge connecter (PRG A10) and pin 19 on the video sram.
No idea how different a twin famicom is.
http://nesdev.com/Ntd_8bit.jpg
Yeah, Famicom PPU pin 14 goes to GND only (it's EXT). And PPU pin 13 goes to LS139 only.Pasky wrote:It's exactly the same, I'm a moron and read the schematic wrong and was looking at the cpu pins =/. I was using that exact schematic.Elrinth wrote:Here's how different it is:Pasky wrote:On a regular NES:
PPU pin 13 goes to pin 4 on the cartridge connecter (PRG A9) and pin 22 on the video sram.
PPU pin 14 goes to pin 3 on the cartridge connecter (PRG A10) and pin 19 on the video sram.
No idea how different a twin famicom is.
http://nesdev.com/Ntd_8bit.jpg
I would assume that the 1.4 sticker means it has v1.4 flashed to it. here is the switch wiring info:sazyario wrote:Ordered my NESRGB kit from the USA Distributior.
It was delivered less than 48 hours after ordering... May help that I only live an hour and a half from him...
Anyway... What size drill bits do I want to use to the drill the holes for the mini din, audio jack and palette switch?
Also, it appears I got a different type of switch. I only have 3 terminals to solder to on the switch instead of 6... This seems odd. I feel in the very least there should be a 4th post for ground...
My board has a sticker on it that says 1.4
Also, looking at the mini din breakout board I do to know what 'v' is for. Composite video or composite sync?
Who is the US distributor? Gametech?sazyario wrote:Ordered my NESRGB kit from the USA Distributior.
It was delivered less than 48 hours after ordering... May help that I only live an hour and a half from him...
Anyway... What size drill bits do I want to use to the drill the holes for the mini din, audio jack and palette switch?
Also, it appears I got a different type of switch. I only have 3 terminals to solder to on the switch instead of 6... This seems odd. I feel in the very least there should be a 4th post for ground...
My board has a sticker on it that says 1.4
Also, looking at the mini din breakout board I do to know what 'v' is for. Composite video or composite sync?
v1.4 can use an on-off-on switch. see here:Josh128 wrote:Who is the US distributor? Gametech?sazyario wrote:Ordered my NESRGB kit from the USA Distributior.
It was delivered less than 48 hours after ordering... May help that I only live an hour and a half from him...
Anyway... What size drill bits do I want to use to the drill the holes for the mini din, audio jack and palette switch?
Also, it appears I got a different type of switch. I only have 3 terminals to solder to on the switch instead of 6... This seems odd. I feel in the very least there should be a 4th post for ground...
My board has a sticker on it that says 1.4
Also, looking at the mini din breakout board I do to know what 'v' is for. Composite video or composite sync?
V is for composite video. CS# is composite sync. Use CS# if your setup supports it. I think the switch you have can only support 2 palettes. Solder ground to center and your palettes of choice to either side. I used a 3/8 bit for my mini din, was a bit too small, probably could have used a 7/16. Dont remember for the jack and switch.
Nope, not me...mickcris wrote:Tim's page says the US distributer is in Ohio so its not gametech.
That would make sense. He's doing my NES and he is in OH. He said he got his boards directly from the guy in Australia.ApolloBoy wrote:Pretty sure it's Yurkie on AtariAge.
This time I will request someone else to do it, for a fee ofcourse. Anyone (preferable in sweden) who could do it, please PM me. Currently I've got game-tech in mind.What happened?Elrinth wrote:I have been unsuccessful in installing the rgbmod in two famicoms now, yes I have two broken Sharp Twin Famicoms now
They don't work when I turn them on. One has a led light which indicates if it's on or not which is never lit. The other I simply try famicom disk mode with and the diskette station doesn't make any sound so it doesn't work either.Zets13 wrote:What happened?Elrinth wrote:I have been unsuccessful in installing the rgbmod in two famicoms now, yes I have two broken Sharp Twin Famicoms now
Man thats disheartening. It is quite a daunting mod though, with about a hundred things that could go wrong. I know when I first powered mine on I wasnt even really expecting it to work, when it did I just had a look of disbelief (and relief!). But, if it hadnt worked, I would have troubleshot as you did, and if it still didnt work after many hours (Im sure) of trying everything, I'd have sent it off as well.Elrinth wrote:They don't work when I turn them on. One has a led light which indicates if it's on or not which is never lit. The other I simply try famicom disk mode with and the diskette station doesn't make any sound so it doesn't work either.Zets13 wrote:What happened?Elrinth wrote:I have been unsuccessful in installing the rgbmod in two famicoms now, yes I have two broken Sharp Twin Famicoms now
You guys should have a bit more confidence in yourselves .. it's not rocket science.Josh128 wrote:It is quite a daunting mod though, with about a hundred things that could go wrong. I know when I first powered mine on I wasnt even really expecting it to work, when it did I just had a look of disbelief (and relief!).
It's 1/3 having the right tools, 1/3 knowing how to use them and 1/3 confidence that you can do it.
Thing is, this is an old piece of tech-- I have to wonder how long it would last (with its electrolytic caps) even without what amounted to a heart transplant & upgrade(on an old friend, no less). It wasnt that I thought I hadnt wired it correctly, I was worried about how the PPU held up through the admittedly agonizing removal. That and it looked like someone had fiddled with the Altera chip on my NESRGB-- some of the tiny legs looked as if they had been soldered to or re-soldered (I just figured perhaps it was something Tim did to fix the vram/firmware issue, as mine must have been one of the first that came with the issue resolved. I actually placed the order before Tim was aware of the problem, but it took over a month for me to get it).leonk wrote:You guys should have a bit more confidence in yourselves .. it's not rocket science.Josh128 wrote:It is quite a daunting mod though, with about a hundred things that could go wrong. I know when I first powered mine on I wasnt even really expecting it to work, when it did I just had a look of disbelief (and relief!).
Imagine if a heart doctor was surprised every time one of his patients wakes up after an operation!
They do, as I got one with mine. I assume Jason decided not to have those included since he already has a bag of them.leonk wrote:they should be including the AC plug with the kit (How much are those Jason? 99 cents??)
Vid link.leonk wrote:For those of you that are not subscribed to Jason's youtube feed (shame on you!) he posted the review of the 3D printed multiAV port. For what it's worth:
Positive:
- I'm surprised by the quality of the connector - it does seem top notch
- Jason always puts out entertaining videos
Negative:
- they have to fix the white color
- they should be including the AC plug with the kit (How much are those Jason? 99 cents??)
- Jason, were you using your mouth as a third hand? If I'm not mistaken, the wire you were holding in your mouth is 40% lead! I have reverse tweezers for this reason (i.e. the type that are typically closed and require you to squeeze to open - excellent 3rd hand)
Overall, for those of you that want a quick, no frills, solution.. it's probably a great buy for you. I strongly feel that using a Nintendo multiAV port (no matter how you get it) is the best way to use the NESRGB in an NES.
Jason, have you ever tried using a multi-AV port from a GameCube? You'll be surprised by how different it is from the SNES. It does NOT have that silly key. It's a plain jane rectangular hole. Very easy to cut and make it look as good as OEM. The fact that the entire port is also ground shielded in a bonus.
Always looking forward to see your videos .. keep up the excellent work!!
Does anyone in the UK have one of these USB blasters than can lend me, so i can update my NESRGB??Jeppen wrote:I was missing some info on this, so i thought i'd just sum it up for anyone else who might need it.
______viletim wrote: The PLD on the NESRGB board does need power while being programmed. The programmers I have sent out have all been modified to power the board while programming it.
*edit Jeppen* As an alternative you could simply have have the NES powered on. (i'm pretty sure i read that in this thread)
______
viletim wrote: I simply installed a 3.3V LDO voltage regulator and connected the output to pin 4 (VCC sense).
You don't need to do this if you can find another way to power the board. Either by applying 3.3V to the JTAG port power terminals or +5V to the power input solder pads (near J3).viletim wrote:The programmer comes with a short 10p IDC ribbon cable. I cut off one end and solder the wire to little piece of phenolic board with the 6p header mounted. I put tape over it afterwards which I have removed for the photo.
Here's a pic i found of the cable's original pin
number 1 to 10 are going from left to right in this pic.
Where and what to connect to the NESRGB (Pics from Tim's site:
http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/background_fault/
JTAG Pinout
+3.3V power rail
Ground
TDO
TCK
TDI
TMS
McCracAttack's troubleshooting and success with the USB blaster:
The programmer on TIM's site is now also 13.1
My win 7 couldn't install the USB blaster drivers correctly when i plugged in the USB cable, i found this page with instructions on how to manually install the correct drivers and have your PC recognize it on Windows 7 and Vista.
Not the drivers are already on your computer in your C:/Altera folder so just follow the instructions in the below link and you'll be fine.
http://www.altera.com/download/drivers/ ... vista.html
McCracAttack wrote:Oh man this was so promising! Thank you! The 13.1 programmer that came with the free Web Edition bundle can see the USB Blaster just fine! But now I'm getting a new error message.CkRtech wrote:It looks like the version that Tim supplied is Quartus II version 11.1.
The Altera website currently has a version 13.1. There is a free version and a licensed version, and the licensed version gives you a 30 day trial.
https://www.altera.com/download/sw/dnl-sw-index.jsp
Newer isn't always better, but perhaps you could give version 13.1 a try. You may need to cleanse your system of 11.1 prior to installing 13.1 - I am not certain. I haven't received a Blaster yet, so I can only make suggestions based on what I see on the web.
More fiddling. But it certainly seems like Windows 7 users need the newer software and drivers than what Tim provided.Code: Select all
Info (209060): Started Programmer operation at Thu Jan 30 22:24:25 2014 Error (209040): Can't access JTAG chain Error (209053): Unexpected error in JTAG server -- error code 44 Error (209012): Operation failed Info (209061): Ended Programmer operation at Thu Jan 30 22:24:25 2014
Update: Okay, I get the exact same error message when I unplug the USB Blaster from the board so it looks like my custom connector needs work.
Update 2: I've check and recheck the connections and as near as I can tell they're sound. Back to fiddling I guess.
Update 3: SUCCESS!!! According to this article some of the pins are powered by the target device. The NES had to be plugged in and turned on in order for the reprogramming to work. And work it did! The problem seems 100% fixed now! Though I guess people who were planning to reprogram boards before they installed them will have to find a way to power them first.
Thanks to nesfreak and CkRtech for your help. Hopefully someone else will learn from my mistakes.
