Bootlegged Software/Hardware and How to Spot It!

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Skykid
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Bootlegged Software/Hardware and How to Spot It!

Post by Skykid »

BOOTLEGGED SOFTWARE/HARDWARE & HOW TO SPOT IT

This thread is dedicated to spotting bootlegged goods. Sometimes it's incredibly difficult to tell the real thing, and the intention of this thread is to provide information on how to spot a boot, know if you've been sold a boot, and vise-versa: confirm that you're buying the genuine article.

To keep it concise (as conversation has already dragged things slightly off course) if someone writes something up and PM's it to me instead of posting, I can put the HTML into my first post, crediting the poster for the work. This way bootleg info will all be collated at the top in an easy to find manner, and I can keep it neatly arranged.

Feel free to send any information you have, images are helpful, so I'd encourage you to add some, and hopefully we can build a list that includes:

-CPS2
-PCB's
-TAITO F3
-ST-V
-MVS

and others!



We'll start with Sega ST-V carts (following on from the recent trading station event.)

SEGA S-TV

Sega ST-V carts can be bootlegged, and are most likely to be ones that fetch higher prices like Radiant Silvergun or Cotton Boomerang.

First let's look at the setup on genuine ST-V carts, running right up until the end of the ST-V's production.

One of the last cartridges released is this, Final Fight Revenge (1999)

Image

Note the PCB layout on the inside

Next a genuine Cotton 2 cart:

Image

Note the same general layout as Final Fight, Sega logo stamped on the board.

Below are two genuine ST-V boards with a little variation between them. Note that the general setup is the same.

The first is Cotton 2 again, the same layout as that shown above, Sega logo stamped on the right:

Image

Here is a picture of the back of the same board. Says 'Sega' with a date stamped next to it.

Image

One very important way to spot ST-V boots is that genuine boards have rounded edges on the Jamma connector (also rounded at the 'key' - the section circled in the image:)

Image

Now we'll do a direct comparison using Cotton Boomerang, a well known bootlegged cart!

COTTON BOOMERANG

Genuine cart - Notice the same layout as shown in above, and the rounded edge connector etc?

Image

Bootleg cart - An example of an excellently made boot, complete with sega on the board (although no logo). However, notice the layout and spacing of the chips, no dates by 'sega', and importanly, the sharp cut of the edge connector and the key section:

Image

ST-V bootlegs come in a variety of styles, so let's take at some other example's of bootlegs.

First this one provided from Dave K. Dave K wrote: "Here is another example of a cart I recently bought from a Hong Kong distributor that marked it as a "copy". This one is a professionally (factory) produced PCB with Intel flash chips. No sega logos or wording. "

Image

And another example from Dave_K.
Dave_K. wrote: "Here is one example of an obvious boot. I bought this as an original [Cotton] boomerang cart on ebay by GWGAT. Hand soldered MX chips on some random ST-V cart PCB...similar to MVS boots. "

Front:
Image

Back:
Image

Finally, we're going to look at labels.

LABEL COMPARISON

Labels on ST-V carts should look like these - Notice the colour of the red around the edge - quite soft bordering on orangey. Also, importantly, look at the font. It's consistent in size, boldness and spacing on both carts.

Image

Image


Here is a boot label - bootleg's are done very well, but the type and letter spacing is a giveaway, and the red colour is deeper than it should be:

Image

Image


That about wraps it up, but lets do a summary:

- ST-V carts all have a similar layout right up until the end of production

- SEGA logo's don't necessarily appear on all carts as they do on Cotton, but they should be dated.

- Look at edge connectors - they should be rounded off on the connector itself and the key section. Sharp cuts are a giveaway.

- Label colour is important, as is font size, strength, and letter spacing. Look closely and you'll see the difference.

NOTE: None of these features are guaranteed to be consistent - you may find that the edge connector is properly rounded on your cart, but the chips look all wrong. If you're unsure, get the proper screwdriver and investigate!

KNOWN BOOTLEG SELLERS:

EBAY: GWAT - Great Western Trading: have been known to sell bootlegged ST-V's regularly.

YATON (? unconfirmed)

(NOTE: If you have any other information on sellers, or places that have sold you a bootlegged ST-V cart, please PM me and I'll update the list.)

BIG THANKS TO:

pcb_revival
Dave_K.
Maxlords
The Sheep

These guys provided all the information and images, I just compiled it - thanks for your help!
Last edited by Skykid on Wed Aug 27, 2008 6:48 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Post by pcb_revival »

Taito F3 system.

Image

Boot on the right.

Label layout is different and the font ( but that could be due to the Japanese/English used ) boot label has a more shiny look than the original - the printing is abit off on the red and green.

Image

Silver seal in place on the left covering the middle screw.

Also note the different region lockout on the edge connecters.

Opening the bootleg.

Image

Image

Messy eproms and pencil marks - standards are slipping at the Taito factory :)


I have not opened the left Bubble Memories cart as I dont want to break the seal - suppose the seal could be a fake too.

If I had a common cart then I would.

There is a part picture of a pcb at Solvalou.com showing the proper eproms.
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Post by rtw »

Interesting thread :D You might add that a missing notch in the JAMMA connector of a PCB is a sign of a bootleg.

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Post by dpful »

good thread. This should be a sticky. I bought tons of stuff over the years without access to this kind of reference. (get long, thread).
extra big board, no jamma slot, rows of little chips instead of big, is a generality for a lot of older bootlegs.
same with square chips socketted instead of mounted on the board?
I bought a strikers 1999 from casey mcmahon that had socketed square chips. It played the game pretty good, but with no transparencies in the graphics + sprite flicker/disappearing bullets.
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Post by Jockel »

Could somebody tell me if this Raiden is a bootleg?
Image
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Post by The Sheep »

definitely. An original Raiden has only one layer
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Post by Jockel »

Ok, "thanks" :/
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Post by spadgy »

rtw wrote:Interesting thread :D You might add that a missing notch in the JAMMA connector of a PCB is a sign of a bootleg.

rtw
So, no gap in the pin out, just like with Jockel's pic of a Raiden bootleg?

Also, The Sheep - I thought official Raiden boards did a have a small second layer (sister board) with a few chips? You're more knowledgable on this topic than me, but I'm sure most have the sister board like this! Sister Board is in the top right.

And Skykid - nice thread! Let's keep it going.
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Post by Dave_K. »

spadgy wrote:
rtw wrote:Interesting thread :D You might add that a missing notch in the JAMMA connector of a PCB is a sign of a bootleg.

rtw
So, no gap in the pin out, just like with Jockel's pic of a Raiden bootleg?
I have a Strikers 1945 which I though was original Psikyo board with no gap in the pinout. Actually the guy who I bought it from actually carved out the gap as his cabinet jamma harness wouldn't plug into it otherwise.

I'll have to take a closer look tonight and see if its legit or not.
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Post by pcb_revival »

Its pin seven that should be missing on the Jamma edge of an original

Jamma standard pcb.


http://www.crazykong.com/

Crazy Kong is a great source to check original and some bootleg board

photos.

Theres another site that also as a comprehensive list - which escapes my

memory.
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Post by pcb_revival »

Dave_K. wrote:
spadgy wrote:
rtw wrote:Interesting thread :D You might add that a missing notch in the JAMMA connector of a PCB is a sign of a bootleg.

rtw
So, no gap in the pin out, just like with Jockel's pic of a Raiden bootleg?
I have a Strikers 1945 which I though was original Psikyo board with no gap in the pinout. Actually the guy who I bought it from actually carved out the gap as his cabinet jamma harness wouldn't plug into it otherwise.

I'll have to take a closer look tonight and see if its legit or not.
I think there is a couple of legal pcbs that dont have the missing pin seven.

Its a pain if your Jamma harness is keyed.
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Post by The Sheep »

About five years ago we had a korean technician at VSA, the company I am working for. His name was Mr. Lim. He was a funny looking guy, and he was really good fixing PCB stuff. "can make possible" he always said. :lol:
One day I he saw me wrapping up an R-Type bootleg for a customer, and he started laughing. "I know this one", he said "my brother made this in Korea. many years ago"
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Post by rtw »

Here is an interesting one, It's Joe & Mac Returns.

Image

Note the missing notch! However the chips are Data East! This is most likely a Data East licensed game for Korea - from what I have heard they licensed
plenty of products from Japan but got them assembled locally to give people jobs.

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Post by lawnspic »

Stick this thread! This should have been here a log time ago. Good work!

I had three ST-V carts i sold here to a member plus a mother board. They were RS, Baku and Souky. I assume they were all legit because two were purchased direct from YJP. They other from a memeber here. I asked in this forum about possible ST-V boots and was told they were not bootlegged like MVS. Anyway, the one thing i do know is the carts had smooth cart edge's unlike cheap boots. Then again it could have been a hack of an original cart PCB as well. BOOTS SUCK IMO. Utter garbage and cheap quality overall. I would not waste money and time on boots to save a few bucks, but thats just me.
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Post by Dave_K. »

pcb_revival wrote:
Dave_K. wrote:
spadgy wrote: So, no gap in the pin out, just like with Jockel's pic of a Raiden bootleg?
I have a Strikers 1945 which I though was original Psikyo board with no gap in the pinout. Actually the guy who I bought it from actually carved out the gap as his cabinet jamma harness wouldn't plug into it otherwise.

I'll have to take a closer look tonight and see if its legit or not.
I think there is a couple of legal pcbs that dont have the missing pin seven.

Its a pain if your Jamma harness is keyed.
Just checked my Strikers 1945, and it looks exactly like the one on Crazy Kong. In fact I think the one pictured on that site also has the slot cut out, although done much cleaner than mine. :wink:
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Post by The Sheep »

@spadgy
You're right, Raiden has a sisterboard. I just did not count that as a second layer because it is quite small.
Last edited by The Sheep on Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by rtw »

Dave_K. wrote:Just checked my Strikers 1945, and it looks exactly like the one on Crazy Kong. In fact I think the one pictured on that site also has the slot cut out, although done much cleaner than mine. :wink:
Interesting, maybe Psikyo forgot the notch in the connector on the first round and it had to be manually done. As you see from this image the notch looks to have been made later.

http://www.world-of-arcades.net/1945/St ... rdware.htm

On WOA you can find hires pictures of original CAVE, Psikyo & Raizing PCB's :D

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Post by rtw »

Here is an interesting one, a very well done Arkanoid bootleg.

Image

Note:
. No MASK ROM's, in fact they are missing.
. No TAITO ROM markings, should be A75
. There is no large metal pad in the lower left corner instead there is a sticker
. Power connector is missing two pins
. Connectors have no label, should be H & G
. Missing components just above the volume control

Here is the real thing:

Image

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Post by spadgy »

Great stuff appearing in this thread. A sticky I reckon.

I know you can sell them for a pretty penny, but what I'm curious about with regard to bootlegs is that they must be some effort to produce (compared to burning off a knock-off DVD).

How are bootleg PCB operations done? Is it hobbiests making a bit on the side, or large scale operations earning huge amounts of money and making a serious threat to the genuine arcade industry?
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Post by pcb_revival »

spadgy wrote:Great stuff appearing in this thread. A sticky I reckon.

I know you can sell them for a pretty penny, but what I'm curious about with regard to bootlegs is that they must be some effort to produce (compared to burning off a knock-off DVD).

How are bootleg PCB operations done? Is it hobbiests making a bit on the side, or large scale operations earning huge amounts of money and making a serious threat to the genuine arcade industry?
Factory produced bootlegs using inferior components made by

thieves massivly undercutting the original copyright holders.
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Post by rtw »

Let us try to keep this thread as focused as possible. If suggest that if we want to discuss how bootlegs are made and how, let us create "the bootleg industry" thread :D

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Post by spadgy »

rtw wrote:Let us try to keep this thread as focused as possible. If suggest that if we want to discuss how bootlegs are made and how, let us create "the bootleg industry" thread :D

rtw
Absolutely fair point. No more spadgy musing!
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Post by Skykid »

rtw wrote:Let us try to keep this thread as focused as possible. If suggest that if we want to discuss how bootlegs are made and how, let us create "the bootleg industry" thread :D

rtw
To keep it concise (as conversation has already dragged things slightly off course) if someone writes something up and PM's it to me instead of posting, I can put the HTML into my first thread, crediting the poster. This way bootleg info will all be collated at the top in an easy to find manner, and I can keep it neatly arranged.

Just an idea - I'll post this message at the start of the thread too.
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Post by Skykid »

Why isn't this stickied yet! :D
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Post by twalden »

You can check F3 carts with a flashlight through the vents so you don't have to break the seal on a legit cart. The only F3 boots I've seen have been the Puzzle Bobble and Bubble Bobble games. Not sure if any other F3 titles were bootlegged or not.
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Re: Bootlegged Software/Hardware and How to Spot It!

Post by Wonderbanana »

Interesting and informative read, thanks.

Did you never get round to gathering the info on other boards (CPS2 etc)?
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Re: Bootlegged Software/Hardware and How to Spot It!

Post by Wonderbanana »

For reference - Radiant Silvergun - Sega STV - Original:

Image
Image
Image
Image

Only point of note is that the 'orangey' effect Is difficult to photograph.
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Re: Bootlegged Software/Hardware and How to Spot It!

Post by Jeneki »

Here's a comparison of a bootleg Kyukyoku Tiger to an original, for PC-Engine HuCard. Apparently back in those days nobody tried to hide the fact they were bootlegs.

Front cover - HEY GUISE LETS COVER UP ALL THE COMPANY LOGOS WITH GAUDY COLORS, NO ONE WILL NOTICE.
Image

Back cover - Who the heck is King?
Image

Spine - Who needs a name when you can have a number?
Image

HuCard front - Again all logos removed. The chip section is also not securely attached; if you put it into a PC Engine, the back of the card sticks out and gets it stuck in the system.
Image

HuCard back - What's a PC Card?
Image

So yea, when you're the KING, you flaunt your booty! :lol:
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Re: Bootlegged Software/Hardware and How to Spot It!

Post by Jeneki »

Bootleg Strikers 1945 I got off lolBay a few months ago:
Image

No notch in the jamma connection, no Psikyo labels, and doesn't look anything like the images found in a simple web search.
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Re: Bootlegged Software/Hardware and How to Spot It!

Post by z0nic »

Hello

im just wondering if this one is a genuine cottoon boomerang because of the round edges ... mentioned above... .

http://www.ebay.de/itm/131884981983?eui ... Tags=bu=bu

Also im selling soon a lot of rare pcbs like ... gunforce I + II etc...

watch my listings...
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