gscartsw / gscartsw_lite / gcompsw switches support thread

[superg]

But you think im talking about RGB 75 ohm terminations??
Lol
Every scart tv set has a 75 ohm termination on pin 16 mate, i can link some pretty pictures if you want.

Well, I didn't know what level of understanding to expect from you so I've checked your other posts

Can someone measure the resistance each output color has to ground?
Im concerned that my board is somewhat faulty as i get odd readings and Tim never responded to my questions.

and figured I better clarify this for you.
Still wonder why people don't respond to your posts?

[superg]

Excellent...

Still hoping to have some by the end of January?

First half of February more likely, I'll have to test every unit and assemble at least some to have some buffer before I can start accepting the orders. Fingers crossed there shouldn't be any manufacturing problems.

[Syntax]

So because i ask a few questions im an idiot with a soldering iron? Thanks for that champ.

Ill go off to the rgb mod thread for help because you wont and the fan boys are ganging up.

1.8v leaves me no headroom to blank 3v sets.
Your lack of interaction with the tv sets termination on 16 is bizzare to me.

Id post some pdf screen shots that show 75 on pin 16 but i really cbf anymore.

[zak]

So because i ask a few questions im an idiot with a soldering iron? Thanks for that champ.

Ill go off to the rgb mod thread for help because you wont and the fan boys are ganging up.

1.8v leaves me no headroom to blank 3v sets.
Your lack of interaction with the tv sets termination on 16 is bizzare to me.

Id post some pdf screen shots that show 75 on pin 16 but i really cbf anymore.

No one is ganging up on you dude. I couldn't help myself with the syntax joke

Tone is hard to gauge in written text. Your tone initially came across as assertive.

[superg]

So because i ask a few questions im an idiot with a soldering iron? Thanks for that champ.

Ill go off to the rgb mod thread for help because you wont and the fan boys are ganging up.

1.8v leaves me no headroom to blank 3v sets.
Your lack of interaction with the tv sets termination on 16 is bizzare to me.

Id post some pdf screen shots that show 75 on pin 16 but i really cbf anymore.

I haven't said that you're idiot with soldering iron, it was a generalisation. What I did say though is that your posts will mislead people who are trying to learn. Also it's not enough to have a multimeter, you also have to understand what and how are you measuring. If you would measure any console with load on pin 16 you wouldn't see 5V there.
1.8V, 5V through 180 ohm resistor, 12V through 560ohm resistor, It's all the same:
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com ... istors.php
If you would understand all this, you wouldn't post anything at all.

[Syntax]

Dude, the load is the 75 ohm termination!

You can use a resistor divider calculator to find the values you dont need a multimeter or the system.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/ ... alculator/

**EDIT**

Ill continue this in the TV RGB MOD thread till we find a solution for our blanking problem there.
Sorry if I confused anyone, misinformation is the last thing I wanted to spread.

For now I'm loving my GScartlite, the only thing id like to see added is independent switches for regenerated sync.
That and if you made said switches 3 way so we can choose between Csync75, Csync TTL, Pass through.

This would make the sync compatible with all tv sets, and considering a large number of users have Sony consumer sets which require comp video for sync to get correct colours and also use an OSSC on an LCD I think it would a massive step forward.

[DirkSwizzler]

superg, now that it's the new year and the vague possibility of design modifications exist. Any chance you could comment on whether you might turn the sync regeneration switch into a 8-toggle dip switch based on which port is active?

I've got the impression that your position on sync regen is that it should just be turned on all the time. But I know myself and probably a few others like to muck with the signals as little as possible. And also want to leave the switch in a stable hardware state so they can just turn on a console and go. So a dip switch would allow some ports to convert from sync on composite or sync on luma to csync in the best way possible. While ports that are already csync are untouched.

Right now I've got 2 switches. 1 with sync regen all the time, and one not. But I'm quickly running into a situation where I'll need to physically separate where my switches are located to reach all the consoles effectively. Which means that one switch per mode won't work anymore unless I reorganize them by signal type instead of by company which I like.

Also, if you could be a bigger hero to the people by making your own streamlined gcompsw -> gscartsw transcoder that somehow plugs into one or the other elegantly. That'd be super great. My conversion solutions all are a mess of wires and I still need to mod my Garo to make it work right.

[ShoothimNow]

All I know is I need a good (and hopefully automatic) SCART Switcher. Really hoping I can get in for one of these, and then buy the needed cables after. Really looking forward to setting up the FrameMeister!

Still have to RGB mod the N64 (can't stand the composite cable quality, which is what led to the jump to FrameMeister / SCART), but as long as I can get +1 of these, I'll be a happy camper.

Thanks for all your work man!

[superg]

superg, now that it's the new year and the vague possibility of design modifications exist. Any chance you could comment on whether you might turn the sync regeneration switch into a 8-toggle dip switch based on which port is active?

I've got the impression that your position on sync regen is that it should just be turned on all the time. But I know myself and probably a few others like to muck with the signals as little as possible. And also want to leave the switch in a stable hardware state so they can just turn on a console and go. So a dip switch would allow some ports to convert from sync on composite or sync on luma to csync in the best way possible. While ports that are already csync are untouched.

Sorry for my stance regarding such functionality, I still don't think this is a much needed feature. Even if I decide to work on it, it will be hard to fit in in the current design. Altera is responsible for the switching logic, it cycles inputs and checks if signal exists. The DIP switch will have to be connected to Altera to make an intelligent decision on what should be forwarded for a given input.
As far as I understand your setup: you're using one switch for all your sync-on-luma / cvbs console with sync regen on, right? If you care about theoretical interference of "excessive something" on a sync line - you get a plenty of that in your console SCART cable even before reaching gscartsw. Leaving sync regen off for that gscartsw will be equally good

Also, if you could be a bigger hero to the people by making your own streamlined gcompsw -> gscartsw transcoder that somehow plugs into one or the other elegantly. That'd be super great. My conversion solutions all are a mess of wires and I still need to mod my Garo to make it work right.

I'm with you on that. Definitely it's not going to be a part of gscartsw, but I might explore the possibility. The problem here is that some users are doing it the other way around, converting RGBS to component.

[Namdor]

I have a couple Gscarts (regular and lite) and gcomps. I would love a larger Gcomp solution. 8 + if possible. Love using my HD retrovision cables and since they have more systems coming out I would love to hav an easy option. Thanks

[DirkSwizzler]

Also, if you could be a bigger hero to the people by making your own streamlined gcompsw -> gscartsw transcoder that somehow plugs into one or the other elegantly. That'd be super great. My conversion solutions all are a mess of wires and I still need to mod my Garo to make it work right.

I'm with you on that. Definitely it's not going to be a part of gscartsw, but I might explore the possibility. The problem here is that some users are doing it the other way around, converting RGBS to component.

I think we can all agree that these are bad people and should be ignored.

I kid. I've definitely got tunnel vision on what would make me happier about my own setup.

[bruceg]

I have a couple Gscarts (regular and lite) and gcomps. I would love a larger Gcomp solution. 8 + if possible. Love using my HD retrovision cables and since they have more systems coming out I would love to hav an easy option. Thanks

Yeah, I would too and I would be willing to pay more, as there aren't a lot of high quality component switchers with over 4 inputs. However, there currently isn't a lot of demand for gcompsw (still in stock), relative to gscartsw_lite, where everybody seems to need at least 8 SCART inputs. I'm guessing the additional development cost to further expand gcompsw functionality may not be worthwhile.

I purchased a gcompsw for my systems that use component inputs. However, I decided to ditch the HD retrovision options and will purchase a gscartsw_lite instead, plus a Shinybow SB-2840 SCART to component converter for my CRT (at least until I find a Sony BVM)

[Namdor]

With HD retrovision selling Sega,SNES, and adapters for Saturn, PS1,PS2, Dreamcast and neo Geo I feel like a larger GComp would be awesome.

Never used a composite signal through it. Has anyone else for an unmodded nes or ps1 or something like that in a pinch?

I have a couple Gscarts (regular and lite) and gcomps. I would love a larger Gcomp solution. 8 + if possible. Love using my HD retrovision cables and since they have more systems coming out I would love to hav an easy option. Thanks

Yeah, I would too and I would be willing to pay more, as there aren't a lot of high quality component switchers with over 4 inputs. However, there currently isn't a lot of demand for gcompsw (still in stock), relative to gscartsw_lite, where everybody seems to need at least 8 SCART inputs. I'm guessing the additional development cost to further expand gcompsw functionality may not be worthwhile.

I purchased a gcompsw for my systems that use component inputs. However, I decided to ditch the HD retrovision options and will purchase a gscartsw_lite instead, plus a Shinybow SB-2840 SCART to component converter for my CRT (at least until I find a Sony BVM)

[DirkSwizzler]

Never used a composite signal through it. Has anyone else for an unmodded nes or ps1 or something like that in a pinch?

I’ve got a second unit that I plan on running svideo (via breakout) from my 3DO and composite from an RF demodulator. With the output going to a composite/svideo to component converter right back into a different gcompsw.

[gordon-creAtive]

I already got my gcompsw but I need at least 5 inputs at some point in the future. So I as well would have opted for a bigger one.

[zak]

I already got my gcompsw but I need at least 5 inputs at some point in the future. So I as well would have opted for a bigger one.

Can you chain these superg?

[superg]

I already got my gcompsw but I need at least 5 inputs at some point in the future. So I as well would have opted for a bigger one.

Can you chain these superg?

Surely you can, but one input will be used for chaining.

[zak]

I already got my gcompsw but I need at least 5 inputs at some point in the future. So I as well would have opted for a bigger one.

Can you chain these superg?

Surely you can, but one input will be used for chaining.

Great he now has a solution.

[nmalinoski]

Can you chain these superg?

Surely you can, but one input will be used for chaining.

Great he now has a solution.

Now if only someone was selling an addon board that would plug in to the Ext. header to add TOSLINK support. :]

[Rupert H]

So like many others, my PC Engine Duo isn’t working through the gscartsw_lite. I’m almost certain this is due to the poor standard of the RGB mod on my console (I bought it already modded with an ugly hard-wired SCART Cable hanging out of the side).

If I re-mod this with a THS7374 amp, and grab a new RGB cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk, will this work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gordon-creAtive]

I already knew that these can be daisy chained. I just would have been more happy with avoiding that.
Anyways. In regards to TOSLINK I found this: https://www.tindie.com/products/Beni_Sk ... io-switch/ Haven't got it yet, but it looks very promising. If you want to discuss this switch we should open a new thread however.

[superg]

I already knew that these can be daisy chained. I just would have been more happy with avoiding that.
Anyways. In regards to TOSLINK I found this: https://www.tindie.com/products/Beni_Sk ... io-switch/ Haven't got it yet, but it looks very promising. If you want to discuss this switch we should open a new thread however.

That is nice, thanks for sharing!

[zak]

So like many others, my PC Engine Duo isn’t working through the gscartsw_lite. I’m almost certain this is due to the poor standard of the RGB mod on my console (I bought it already modded with an ugly hard-wired SCART Cable hanging out of the side).

If I re-mod this with a THS7374 amp, and grab a new RGB cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk, will this work?

I used gojira54's amp and scart cable. He's on this forum and can help you. Avoid sync strippers and don't take sync from the composite sync pin on the HuC6260. (thanks mickcris and superg for the advice). Mine works perfectly with gscart and OSSC. (FYI, I don't use sync regen)

I looked back a couple pages to your install pic and it looks like you have sync connected to the composite sync pin on the HuC6260. remove that and just use the composite video signal going to the din jack. that composite signal directly from the IC will not work with the gscartsw_lite and is probably why the sync stripper needed to be added. using the stock composite video at the din jack will work fine.

I can definitely confirm that composite sync is a way to go. Composite sync is the default and I test everything in that mode.
Honestly I don't get the current trend when we complicate our setups by using csync / sync-on-luma cables, TTL etc. True, it solves some specific problems mostly due to the issues presented by other devices For instance some RGB monitors accepting only csync which can be solved in a more elegant way just by adding one sync stripping IC before monitor input (which is not needed if gscartsw sync regeneration is used). But in general it introduces more problems than it solves. I spent years making those switches and 95% of all the problems involve cable integrated sync stripping (LM1881) / csync cable / sync-on-luma / improperly modded console sync circuit. Almost all the old RGB-SCART cables used composite sync by default. And from consumer standpoint it's very hard to manage all specific sync information like having the correct resistor on a TTL sync line, most of owners have no idea how to check that, they've just purchased the RGB-SCART CSYNC cable because they heard that CSYNC is the best cable because somebody said that.
Inb4 somebody mentions analog signal interference: composite video affects RGB lines as much as every other RGB line affect each other, and all interference is minimal if fully shielded cable is used. And it's all theoretical as visually I can't tell the difference.

This fixed it for me.

[thebigcheese]

So like many others, my PC Engine Duo isn’t working through the gscartsw_lite. I’m almost certain this is due to the poor standard of the RGB mod on my console (I bought it already modded with an ugly hard-wired SCART Cable hanging out of the side).

If I re-mod this with a THS7374 amp, and grab a new RGB cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk, will this work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do my own mods, but I used Tim Worthington's AV Driver to mod my TG16 and have had no issues with the GScartsw lite or Framemeister, so definitely a good idea to redo the mod. In your case, one of Voultar's options (or similar) is likely to be a simpler way to go than the AV Driver.

[ShoothimNow]

I do my own mods, but I used Tim Worthington's AV Driver to mod my TG16 and have had no issues with the GScartsw lite or Framemeister, so definitely a good idea to redo the mod. In your case, one of Voultar's options (or similar) is likely to be a simpler way to go than the AV Driver.

Do you have a link to this, if you don't mind? And thank you =D

[superg]

I do my own mods, but I used Tim Worthington's AV Driver to mod my TG16 and have had no issues with the GScartsw lite or Framemeister, so definitely a good idea to redo the mod. In your case, one of Voultar's options (or similar) is likely to be a simpler way to go than the AV Driver.

Do you have a link to this, if you don't mind? And thank you =D

So like many others, my PC Engine Duo isn’t working through the gscartsw_lite. I’m almost certain this is due to the poor standard of the RGB mod on my console (I bought it already modded with an ugly hard-wired SCART Cable hanging out of the side).

If I re-mod this with a THS7374 amp, and grab a new RGB cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk, will this work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do my own mods, but I used Tim Worthington's AV Driver to mod my TG16 and have had no issues with the GScartsw lite or Framemeister, so definitely a good idea to redo the mod. In your case, one of Voultar's options (or similar) is likely to be a simpler way to go than the AV Driver.

I'm currently working on 3 console mods (SNES Mini, N64 and *Grafx). The plan is to have a compatibility list what is proven to be solid (and what works on gscartsw). The list will have suggested mods and only the mods installed and tested by myself. As of today one of my SNES Mini's has Voultar's S-RGB Expansion mod and this is my recommendation for SNES Mini. I'll have my another SNES Mini modded with Voultar's pass through mod, TurboGrafx with Voultar's RGB mod and two Nintendo 64 modded with Voultar N64 mod and viletim's N64RGB.

[thebigcheese]

I do my own mods, but I used Tim Worthington's AV Driver to mod my TG16 and have had no issues with the GScartsw lite or Framemeister, so definitely a good idea to redo the mod. In your case, one of Voultar's options (or similar) is likely to be a simpler way to go than the AV Driver.

Do you have a link to this, if you don't mind? And thank you =D

Here is the Voultar kit: http://voultar.com/index.php?route=prod ... duct_id=53. He has a good video explaining how to install it if you are the modding sort, though not much in the way of written instructions. I believe that these options from Console5 are similar if not functionally identical: https://console5.com/store/kits/rgb/pce-rgb.html. I haven't tried either mod board, but I have used Voultar's SNES board and it works fine. I've also gotten some recap kits from Console5 and they have been good, too.

[axlblazeadam]

and two Nintendo 64 modded with Voultar N64 mod and viletim's N64RGB.

I have a N64 with viletim's mod and so far no problems using the gscartsw.

Then again, i don't have tools to measure exactly what is going through the scart pins.

[mickcris]

So like many others, my PC Engine Duo isn’t working through the gscartsw_lite. I’m almost certain this is due to the poor standard of the RGB mod on my console (I bought it already modded with an ugly hard-wired SCART Cable hanging out of the side).

If I re-mod this with a THS7374 amp, and grab a new RGB cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk, will this work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The reason for most of these PC Engine incompatibilities is that some people connect only a wire to the composite sync (c-sync) pin on the HuC6260 chip or the expansion port. It does not work in all situations if you hook it up like that.
You could open up your console and check to see where it is connected. If it is connected there, just move that wire to the composite video signal on the Din jack.

The yellow here is composite sync

[driftminister]

After 2 weeks of waiting for customs clearance I have now also received my switches. Thank you!

I am using the special cables recommended by the guys of retrorgb.com and the shop mentioned from the YouTube RGB video of the channel "my life in gaming"
I am not as experienced with all those various sync RGB options, so I buy what others recommend to me and those cables served me well since 2 years now. I assume that they have some sync option being built in but I am not sure, they are those scart cables with the "famous" yellow sticker on it, maybe some of you know them.

With gscartsw all the old consoles work perfectly on my PVM and LCD Beamer / Framemeister setup, but with PS1, PS 2 and Xbox I get a shaking, slightly vibrating picture on both the PVM and the LCD Beamer.

Maybe you guys can help me or at least point me out which cable to buy. I'm located in Europe, so the RGB cables from https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/son ... laystation
would be a good shop for me to buy. But as I am a sync noob, I don't know which cable to pick

Thanks