TV RGB mod thread

[Syntax]

Awesome work Syntax,will give this a try on my trinitron and report back.

If you do, remove the small caps that link the OSD inline ones.
I forgot to and there is a small chance of ghosting with them in I believe.

So just to recap to avoid confusion.

Near the OSD Chip
Remove R024 R025 R026 and bridge the pads where they were.
Remove C022 C023 C024 (they should be close to the ones above)

Near the Jungle Chip
Replace R063 R064 R065 with 75ohm resistors. (These are the RGB termination resistors. You can remove the originals and put the 75 ohm terminations in the scart plug or somewhere else if its easier)
Replace C318 C319 C320 with 100n(104) ceramic caps(Optional)

[Pikkon]

Thanks for the extra info,my set(kv-32fs100)is a bit different than yours as it already has 0.1 caps.

[evilsim]

All this new info is fantastic - I really need some help with 2 TV's I have, but have had luck with one too.

--Working:
-Sony KV-G21S2 (soldered directly to existing RGB lines on missing teletext chip, blanking to 5v and sync or csync on AV1) perfect and easy. Looks great! Got Soft15hz working in W10 with a Radeon HD4350 too ; mame is perfect.

--Not working: both tv's the image moves horizontally very fast, but I can see that the RGB image is correct, its just not stable..
-Sony KV-XJ29M31, BGR3 chassis (exactly the same soldering setup as the above KV-G21S2, but image not at all stable and the AV1 text still is visible on the screen too (nothing has been de-soldered at this point), the TV also buzzes when I connect GND or sync line from my RGBNES console. Service Manual link, page 44 has schematic -> https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf4/84/83 ... ake=binary
-NEC FS-6391 (desoldered RGB/Blanking from the M73220M3 chip) same as above image not stable, but I can see the RGB image from the NES is on the screen. The mainboard is labelled PWC-4136A / LM-1.

I've got another Sony widescreen CRT in the garage too, but I'm happy to use my Kramer FC-14 to convert rgb to YUV for that one. As for the above two, I am really just interested to learn about how to mod these TV's. I am a bit obsessed with old school RGB gaming & electronics.

[Syntax]

Sony BG-3R chassis have some very different setups between sets.

Some have dual input jungles some don't, but it seems the resistor numbers pretty much stay the same.

I'm probably going to stop referencing the chassis and start focusing on the Jungle IC and OSD IC numbers as that's the important part of this mod.

Having a quick look over the pdf for this chassis this morning my recent discoveries with the BG-3S should work fine for the BG-3R range.

The only issue ive ran into so far is when the scart cable has termination resistors in it (like a PAL SNES cable) those terminations ADD to the OSD termination and make the blue screen background and menu dim a little.

The console will still perform as it was intended too though. Its just noticeable with the scart cable plugged in.

[Pikkon]

I know on a lot a pal sets with scart most of them have a 100ohm resister after the 0.1 cap then the 75 termination but don't think that would help with the slight issue your having.

[Syntax]

There is no way around it without putting a resistor or diode inline on the rgb lines, which would put the consoles out of spec.
Pal Snes is the only cable I own with termination resistors in it.

[MarkOZLAD]

--Not working: both tv's the image moves horizontally very fast, but I can see that the RGB image is correct, its just not stable..
-Sony KV-XJ29M31, BGR3 chassis (exactly the same soldering setup as the above KV-G21S2, but image not at all stable and the AV1 text still is visible on the screen too (nothing has been de-soldered at this point), the TV also buzzes when I connect GND or sync line from my RGBNES console. Service Manual link, page 44 has schematic -> https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf4/84/83 ... ake=binary
-NEC FS-6391 (desoldered RGB/Blanking from the M73220M3 chip) same as above image not stable, but I can see the RGB image from the NES is on the screen. The mainboard is labelled PWC-4136A / LM-1.

So I take it that you are connecting the TV with a RGBHV to Scart RGBS connector? Have you tried tweaking the resistance on the H and V sync lines that become C Sync?

EDIT: Have you tried a different Scart Output device?

[Syntax]

--Not working: both tv's the image moves horizontally very fast, but I can see that the RGB image is correct, its just not stable..
-Sony KV-XJ29M31, BGR3 chassis (exactly the same soldering setup as the above KV-G21S2, but image not at all stable and the AV1 text still is visible on the screen too (nothing has been de-soldered at this point), the TV also buzzes when I connect GND or sync line from my RGBNES console. Service Manual link, page 44 has schematic -> https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf4/84/83 ... ake=binary
-NEC FS-6391 (desoldered RGB/Blanking from the M73220M3 chip) same as above image not stable, but I can see the RGB image from the NES is on the screen. The mainboard is labelled PWC-4136A / LM-1.

So I take it that you are connecting the TV with a RGBHV to Scart RGBS connector? Have you tried tweaking the resistance on the H and V sync lines that become C Sync?

EDIT: Have you tried a different Scart Output device?

NESRGB DOES NOT output VGA RGBHV dude..

[MarkOZLAD]

NESRGB DOES NOT output VGA RGBHV dude..

Sorry, I missed the NESRGB bit, I was thinking about the Arcade 15Khz.

I've heard the sync can be problematic on RGB modded consoles at times too but I don't have experience with them.

Admit it is strange that more than one device is having sync issues. BG-3R can normally accept csync and Composite video as sync no problem.

[evilsim]

negative, the RBGHV to RGBs device is for when you have a PC VGA card outputting 15khz and want to output that to a CRT TV (or other purposes). I am not using any such device in this situation.

I am outputting from a NESRGB (and other rgb moddded consoles) directly from the consoles R G B TTLSync lines directly to a 8 pin mini din socket which I had soldered to the relevant RGB/CVBS lines on the TV's (most of my rgb modded consoles have 8 pin mini din added on there). I've also tried with other consoles such as a SNES or SuperFami which outputs CVBS/composite as sync. Neither or any of these got me going. I did try using the Y line on the TV which had YUV inputs - still not sync on either of them..

I picked up an old HP 15" CRT today, pity it does not accept 15khz signals tho.. Have to keep this one for the Dreamcast or XBOX via my Garo device.

[Pikkon]

Not fully yet done with the mod Syntax but my osd works just fine,still need to wire up the scart then I'll be done.

Think my osd has way better color than it did before.

[Syntax]

Not fully yet done with the mod Syntax but my osd works just fine,still need to wire up the scart then I'll be done.

Think my osd has way better color than it did before.

Nice! Beats having a switch or washed out menu and console hey.

[Pikkon]

It works

At first I had the sync on the wrong pin but after I fixed that I got a awesome picture,thanks for this discovery,it really makes it so much better and no need for that big ass switch.

[takeshi385]

Hey guys, I'm about to embark on this myself and I was hoping some of the pro could double check my pinout.

I wasn't able to find a data sheet for my TA8801CN, but I assume it shouldn't be too different than the TA8801AN since the they have the same footprint.
The points of interest:
Pin 16 Red in.
Pin 17 Green in.
Pin 18 Blue in.
Pin 12 should be the blanking pin and I assume I would desolder it and connect it to 5v.(using a switch)
And finally pin 33 for sync coming from rgb.


http://datasheet.octopart.com/TA8801AN- ... 102926.pdf

[MarkOZLAD]

Hey guys, I'm about to embark on this myself and I was hoping some of the pro could double check my pinout.

I wasn't able to find a data sheet for my TA8801CN, but I assume it shouldn't be too different than the TA8801AN since the they have the same footprint.
The points of interest:
Pin 16 Red in.
Pin 17 Green in.
Pin 18 Blue in.
Pin 12 should be the blanking pin and I assume I would desolder it and connect it to 5v.(using a switch)
And finally pin 33 for sync coming from rgb.


http://datasheet.octopart.com/TA8801AN- ... 102926.pdf

What is the model number of the television?

[Syntax]

It works

At first I had the sync on the wrong pin but after I fixed that I got a awesome picture,thanks for this discovery,it really makes it so much better and no need for that big ass switch.

Really appreciate you testing this out on the 3R chassis. It's great news to know it's working fine for someone else.

I notice it's easier to see the menu on dark screens when in RGB mode, but it's not really an issue.

Did you remove the caps near the OSD?

[Pikkon]

My set never had caps by the osd,there's pads there but was never populated.

[takeshi385]

Hey guys, I'm about to embark on this myself and I was hoping some of the pro could double check my pinout.

I wasn't able to find a data sheet for my TA8801CN, but I assume it shouldn't be too different than the TA8801AN since the they have the same footprint.
The points of interest:
Pin 16 Red in.
Pin 17 Green in.
Pin 18 Blue in.
Pin 12 should be the blanking pin and I assume I would desolder it and connect it to 5v.(using a switch)
And finally pin 33 for sync coming from rgb.


http://datasheet.octopart.com/TA8801AN- ... 102926.pdf

What is the model number of the television?

It is an orion tvcr1921A. I removed the built in vcr because it was acting up. Orion's are cheap tvs but depending on how the mod goes I might buy another tv(maybe a sony) and mod it. It all depends if I like the results.

[Syntax]

Of all the sets I have modded recently I seem to lean towards Panasonic for quality.
Every Panasonic curved screen I own has awesome color and a super sharp picture

Don't really rate the Sony sets.

[cyborc]

Syntax, I wonder if your OSD idea will work on a KV-27S42? (BA-4D Chassis) Guess there's only one way to find out...but first gotta wait for some parts to come in.

[Syntax]

Concerning parts, I've been stealing smd caps and resistors off a large Sony tv I killed earlier this year.
Saves having to wait or pay for stuff.

Link me your chassis pdf and I'll check it out.

[MarkOZLAD]

Hey guys, I'm about to embark on this myself and I was hoping some of the pro could double check my pinout.

I wasn't able to find a data sheet for my TA8801CN, but I assume it shouldn't be too different than the TA8801AN since the they have the same footprint.
The points of interest:
Pin 16 Red in.
Pin 17 Green in.
Pin 18 Blue in.
Pin 12 should be the blanking pin and I assume I would desolder it and connect it to 5v.(using a switch)
And finally pin 33 for sync coming from rgb.


http://datasheet.octopart.com/TA8801AN- ... 102926.pdf

It is an orion tvcr1921A. I removed the built in vcr because it was acting up. Orion's are cheap tvs but depending on how the mod goes I might buy another tv(maybe a sony) and mod it. It all depends if I like the results.

I looked at the datasheet. Pin 12 didn't appear to be blanking. Instead it seems to blank when pin 16, the red input, reaches 0.75 volt threshold. This isn't something I'm used to seeing and suggests to me that this TV requires amplified RGB signals.

Perhaps someone else will know more about this Jungle.

[takeshi385]

^^hmm I think I have already decide that this will be just a practice tv. I’m no noob when it comes to soldering. Admittedly I didn’t try this mod sooner because discharging the anode seemed pretty scary. After looking inside this tv more and more I became dissatisfied with it’s design. It doesn’t even have a chassis. I had to ground the anode to my workbench when I discharged it. Hopefully even if it isn’t always blanking I can get a picture for a second or two and that would be good enough for this practice mod. I’ll keep my eye on garage sales for crts.

[cyborc]

Concerning parts, I've been stealing smd caps and resistors off a large Sony tv I killed earlier this year.
Saves having to wait or pay for stuff.

Link me your chassis pdf and I'll check it out.

Here you go https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By34W4 ... p=drivesdk

[Syntax]

^^hmm I think I have already decide that this will be just a practice tv. I’m no noob when it comes to soldering. Admittedly I didn’t try this mod sooner because discharging the anode seemed pretty scary. After looking inside this tv more and more I became dissatisfied with it’s design. It doesn’t even have a chassis. I had to ground the anode to my workbench when I discharged it. Hopefully even if it isn’t always blanking I can get a picture for a second or two and that would be good enough for this practice mod. I’ll keep my eye on garage sales for crts.

Don't take my advice but I never even touch the anode, there's never any need for me to.

I take the back off the set, flip it upside down and work on the underside of the chassis board, if I need to ill slide the board out a bit but I avoid touching the anode at all costs.

Some great advice that may save your life is the one hand rule. Keep one behind your back if your being dodgy near high voltage. Keeps the flow away from your heart.

I'm also not afraid of a little zap.

[Syntax]

Syntax, I wonder if your OSD idea will work on a KV-27S42? (BA-4D Chassis) Guess there's only one way to find out...but first gotta wait for some parts to come in.

There are 480ohm resistors to ground on the RGB OSD lines that need to be switched for 75ohm and your inline OSD resistors are 5.6k, where mine were 3.9k.

If your OSD has a higher stock output than my OSD you'll need to lower the resistor values not completely remove them I think.

Id personally replace the 480s with 75s then put a triple gang pot in the inlines place and turn it till the OSD looked nice, write down the values and replace with resistors.

That PDF you linked was so hard to read I think I got the number correct lol.

[takeshi385]

The thrift store around the corner from my house has a sony kv35v35 crt for 20 dollars. It appears it may have a CXA2025AS jungle chip.

[cyborc]

Syntax, I wonder if your OSD idea will work on a KV-27S42? (BA-4D Chassis) Guess there's only one way to find out...but first gotta wait for some parts to come in.

There are 480ohm resistors to ground on the RGB OSD lines that need to be switched for 75ohm and your inline OSD resistors are 5.6k, where mine were 3.9k.

If your OSD has a higher stock output than my OSD you'll need to lower the resistor values not completely remove them I think.

Id personally replace the 480s with 75s then put a triple gang pot in the inlines place and turn it till the OSD looked nice, write down the values and replace with resistors.

That PDF you linked was so hard to read I think I got the number correct lol.

For some stupid reason they designed this PDF to where you have to zoom in to like 1200% to read the schematic!

Looks like the resistors to ground are 680, not 480. Replacing those with 75 should still work though, right? Thanks for the triple gang pot suggestion. I'll try that.

[Syntax]

Yeah replace with 75, install the pot and turn till osd looks nice with nothing plugged in then double check with RGB Running a black screen.

[fandangos]

Hey, Syntax! I was finally able to work on my tv without success.

I wired a 10k pot with GND INSW2 (pin 50) 5v. And no blanking occurred.



This is what happened, black and white picture because the state actually changed from YUV but to what it seems to be composite ????





Few more pictures, to show that I tried RGB on YUV and sync on AV1.
What did show some picture what using an Y cable and using composite sync + green. The composite only also works.

I tried with 8v instead of 5v but the results are the same.
And I was still able to switch AV channels using the TV front panel, so I guess, this means no blanking, right?

So, it seems I have to blank somewhere else AND send 5v to INSW2 to change from YUV to RGB??

Here is the tv schematics:
https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... 30l-16084/

What should I try next?